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Re: Re: Squalene vs squalane

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>Could you please explain (aside from molecular structure) what the

>differences between the two are.... I guess the information I am looking

>for is the practical application differences between the two products are

>in skin care.

Squalene goes rancid and comes from sharks.

>I have a product I use called " vegelane " which is squalene produced

>from olives.

Are you sure?

http://www.naturactiva.net/articles/conf_seoul.doc

http://www.naturactiva.net/articles/olive_gift.doc

> I was of the understanding that this was a vegetable

>derived equivalent of the squalene found in shark liver, and had very

>similar if not identical properties, but I don't know how this would differ

>from squalane?

I think Vegelane is Squalane.

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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In a message dated 4/14/04 9:20:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

earthchylde@... writes:

> Could you please explain (aside from molecular structure) what the

> differences between the two are.... I guess the information I am looking

> for is the practical application differences between the two products are

> in skin care.

>

> I have a product I use called " vegelane " which is squalene produced

> from olives. I was of the understanding that this was a vegetable

> derived equivalent of the squalene found in shark liver, and had very

> similar if not identical properties, but I don't know how this would differ

> from squalane?

>

Hi and all,

There seems to be quite a bit of confusion around squalene and squalane.

Squalene is first of all a component of human sebum. Sebum is made up of 57.5%

triglycerides, 26% wax esters, 12% squalene, 10% free fatty acids, and some

cholesterol and cholesterol esters (from Harry's Cosmeticology 8th). Squalene

has been obtained for cosmetic use primarily from sharks and olive oil.

Sometimes olive squalene is referred to as olive oil unsaponifiables. Squalene

contains phytosterols and free tocopherols. There's some data that demonstrates

very positive benefits, but none is entirely conclusive. Here is a link that

gives a bit of info and explains a little about the chemistry of squalene.

http://www.pdrhealth.com/drug_info/nmdrugprofiles/nutsupdrugs/squ_0240.shtml

Squalene is not a stable molecule. This is good and bad--so typical of life

;) This chemical structure allows it to be " active " as described, but it also

means that it theoretically does not have a very long shelf life.

Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene. I've not seen any squalane

for sale that was not veggie derived---usually olive. Squalane is an

excellent light, emollient oil. It has a good affinitity and feel for skin

care. It

does not contain free tocopherols and phytosterols though, so it is not the

" active " form. I don't know of any studies that have compared squalene and

squalane in terms of skin care benefits--but would love to see some :)

Prior to carrying the squalane that we currently have at The Herbarie, we

tested 2 different manufacturers of olive squalene and 3 different manufacturers

of olive squalane. The chemical structure and specs and feel on all the

squalane was identical, there were some differences between the two squalene

products. Because of the stability issues, we decided to carry squalane. I've

been

" testing " the two squalene products to see how long it takes them to oxidize

or become rancid. It's been about a year on one of them and about 6 months on

the other. So far, so good. It appears to me that the shelf-life is quite

long for squalene---we may carry that one in the future for the obvious skin

care benefits.

Hope this helps to clarify a bit---they are both desirable ingredients in my

opinion.

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

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In a message dated 4/14/04 9:39:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

maurice@... writes:

> http://www.naturactiva.net/articles/conf_seoul.doc

> http://www.naturactiva.net/articles/olive_gift.doc

>

Hi Maurice,

I didn't realize you had posted these links---these are great and have an

excellent description!

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

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Angie and Maurice,

Thanks so much for the information you posted on SqualAne and SqualEne.

Now all I have to do is read all the links Maurice sent and get in down in

my brain.

Angie your explanation was very helpful and I loved that you kept the

Squalene samples around to test for shelf life.

Best,

Bobbi Guerra

The Purple Sage

Fine Hand Made Bath & Body Products

> In a message dated 4/14/04 9:20:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

> earthchylde@... writes:

>

> > Could you please explain (aside from molecular structure) what the

> > differences between the two are.... I guess the information I am looking

> > for is the practical application differences between the two products

are

> > in skin care.

> >

>

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Good Morning!

It looks to me like squalene does have bioactivity, both internally and

externally. There seems to be a good bit of literature on internal use. The

samples of squalene that I have would more accurately be described as INCI Name:

Olive Oil Unsaponifiables--even though they are sold as Olive Squalene. The

specs on these samples state anywhere from 80%-90% squalene and the remainder in

tocopherols/phytosterols. Probably most products that are sold as " Squalene "

are really Olive Oil Unsaponfiables. Just between my three samples of

Squalene/Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, there is some variability as I mentioned in

an

earlier post. There are no chemical or physical differences between any of the

Squalane samples I've seen.

Here's a cut and paste from the excellent article Maurice posted yesterday.

I think it pretty much says it all.

Olive unsaponifiables

The non-glycerol or fatty acid derived part in any oil is called an

unsaponifiable. In olive oil, it accounts for 1.5 to 2% and the major

constituent is

squalene.

Squalene

Squalene is an isoprenoid (hexamethyl tetracosahexaene -C30H50) which is the

precursor of all cyclic triterpenoids (e.g.: cholesterol). Its name is

derived from the Latin word meaning shark, as squalene is found in large

quantities

in shark liver oil.

The clinical uses of squalene have been reviewed by : in the human body,

squalene is concentrated in the skin and functions as a quencher of singlet

oxygen (as efficient as BHT), protecting skin from lipid peroxidation (Kohno).

Squalene itself is stable to peroxide radical attacks and does not propagate

skin lipid peroxidation.

Squalene is used as an adjuvant in cancer therapy where it seems to boost

immune responses (). Several authors also studied squalene's ability to

prohibit the tumor promoting activity of various compounds (Newmark).

Squalane

Squalane is obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of squalene. Its major use is

as a cosmetic emollient and a carrier of lipid soluble drugs.

Even though I love the Olive Squalane, I've just about convinced myself to

buy some of the Olive Oil Unsaponifiables/Olive Squalene ;) Something to think

about.

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

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