Re: Blooming Bath Oil

[Guest guest]

In a message dated 4/20/04 6:05:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

deb@... writes:

> Do you have suggestions for other variations that might be more

> successful or do I just need to resign myself to having a slightly

> cloudy mixture in order to get the longer shelf life and good blooming

> ability?

>

Hi Deb, Maurice, Dave and All,

I took a couple of days away from the web---a birthday present to myself

Anyhow, I recognize the combo of ingredients so thought I'd comment here.

I always take HLB into consideration when making a dispersible or blooming

bath oil. Admittedly I have not done any long term, really and truly scientific

studies but I can say that I've had a good bit of success with the

sorbitan oleate/polysorbate 80 combo. I also use the PEG 7 Olivate with

success--I

would think other PEG oils could also be used. I use a ratio of emulsifiers

with HLB values that balance with the oils that I'm using.

I've never seen any good instructions on making dispersible/blooming bath

oils. I've not seen any recommended percentage of emulsifier combo either. I

would think that 15 or 20% would be more than enough, but I'm not sure. Dave,

Maurice, do you have any thoughts on this one?

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

[Guest guest]

>I always take HLB into consideration when making a dispersible or blooming

>bath oil. Admittedly I have not done any long term, really and truly

scientific

>studies but I can say that I've had a good bit of success with the

>sorbitan oleate/polysorbate 80 combo.

Here are the calculations based on a few assumptions.

If your blooming bath oil contains:

50% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

11% Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil

10% Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil

1% Canola Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Tocopherol (Aloe Vera

Oil)

1% Pistachio Nut Oil

1% Tocopherol

0.5% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

5% Fragrance

Then total amount of oils in our Oil Phase = 79.5%

To calculate the required HLB of our Oil Phase, we must calculate the

composition

of our Oil Phase in terms of percentage.

But we already know that the total amount of oils in our Oil Phase = 79.5%

Therefore we can say that 79.5% of our formula = 100% of the Oil Phase,

If 79.5% = 100%

and 50% = X %

then X = (100 X 50) / 79.5

X = 5000 / 79.5

X = 62.89%

Therefore Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is 62.89% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 11% = X %

then X = (100 X 11) / 79.5

X = 1100 / 79.5

X = 13.84%

and Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil is 13.84% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 10% = X %

then X = (100 X 10) / 79.5

X = 1000 / 79.5

X = 12.58%

and Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil is 12.58% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 1% = X %

then X = (100 X 1) / 79.5

X = 100 / 79.5

X = 1.26%

and Canola Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Tocopherol is 1.26% of

the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 1% = X %

then X = (100 X 1) / 79.5

X = 100 / 79.5

X = 1.26%

and Pistachio Nut Oil is 1.26% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 1% = X %

then X = (100 X 1) / 79.5

X = 100 / 79.5

X = 1.26%

and Tocopherol is 1.26% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 0.5% = X %

then X = (100 X 0.5) / 79.5

X = 50 / 79.5

X = 0.63%

and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is 0.63% of the oil phase.

If 79.5% = 100%

and 5% = X %

then X = (100 X 5) / 79.5

X = 500 / 79.5

X = 6.29%

and Fragrance is 6.29% of the oil phase.

So now, we can say

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride = 50% of the formula and 62.89% of the oil phase.

Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil = 11% of the formula and 13.84% of the

oil phase.

Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil = 10% of the formula and 12.58% of the oil phase.

Canola Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Tocopherol = 1% of the

formula and 1.26% of the oil phase.

Pistachio Nut Oil = 1% of the formula and 1.26% of the oil phase.

Tocopherol = 1% of the formula and 1.26% of the oil phase.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate = 0.5% of the formula and 0.63% of the oil phase.

Fragrance = 5% of the formula and 6.29% of the oil phase.

But I know or have assumed that

the required HLB of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is 5

the required HLB of Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil is 7

the required HLB of Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil is 7

the required HLB of Canola Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and)

Tocopherol is 7

the required HLB of Pistachio Nut Oil is 7

the required HLB of Tocopherol is 6

the required HLB of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is 12

the required HLB of Fragrance is 7

To calculate the required HLB of the Oil Phase, we multiply the percentage of

each

oil in the Oil Phase by its respective required HLB and sum the results.

(62.89/100) X 5 = 0.6289 X 5 = 3.14

(13.84/100) X 7 = 0.1384 X 7 = 0.97

(12.58/100) X 7 = 0.1258 X 7 = 0.88

(1.26/100) X 7 = 0.0126 X 7 = 0.09

(1.26/100) X 7 = 0.0126 X 7 = 0.09

(1.26/100) X 6 = 0.0126 X 6 = 0.08

(0.63/100) X 12 = 0.0063 X 12 = 0.08

(6.29/100) X 7 = 0.0629 X 7 = 0.44

The required HLB of our oil phase is the sum of these numbers or 5.76

but we know that

Sorbitan Oleate has a HLB of 4.3 and

Polysorbate 80 has a HLB of 15

and

86.35% X 4.3 + 13.65% X 15 =

0.8635 X 4.3 + 0.1365 X 15 =

3.71 + 2.05 = 5.76

Therefore, an emulsifying system that contains

86.35% Sorbitan Oleate and

13.65% Polysorbate 80

will have a HLB of 5.76

So if you want your emulsion to contain 20% emulsifier, you will need

86.35% X 20 = 0.86 X 20 = 17.27% Sorbitan Oleate

13.65% X 20 = 0.14 X 20 = 2.73% Polysorbate 80

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>

> >Not familiar with emester? What is it?

>

> C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

>

Thanks.

Your best product for blooming seems to be the 10% of each of the

poly 80 and the sorbitan oleate. This would indicate for your system

a best HLB of around 9.7 to get the blooming effect you need.I have

seen a blooming bath oil formulation from Uniquema using Brij 30 as

the sole emulsifier with an HLB of 9.7. It looks like its the

emulsifier that's clouding so try 7.5% of each which should still

bloom but might reduce the cloudiness. Your product has a lot of

variables because of the amounts of different types of oils you're

using. This complicates the formulation process as you've obviously

found out. Sorting out a suitable, stable, blooming product with

these amounts of various ingredients would be a challenge for the

most experienced Chemist. So good luck. Keep us posted.

Dave Eastham