Guest guest Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Angie, Thank you! I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative! Great resource for a newbie like me. I've the following questions: 1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize? 2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate? 3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Hi , > Thank you! > I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative! > Great resource for a newbie like me. > Oh good! I'm glad you found it informative! We still have some things to finish, but hopefully it will be much better in the long run. > I've the following questions: > 1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among > xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize? Good question! I'll try to answer it! Xanthan gum, cellulose, UltraMaize, agar, etc. are all in a family that's sometimes referred to as natural or naturally derived hydrophilic colloids and gums. In this family, we have mostly polysaccharides made up of carbohydrates with repeating sugar units. Some of these hydrocolloids are cationic and some are anionic. Since these are often used in the food industry, good information can be found there on the chemical composition and the way they function. Take a look at this article: http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1993/0193CS.html These materials will dissolve/disperse in water (except for cellulose) and have a high molecule weight. They will stay sort of suspended to thicken and sometimes form a gel. I have honestly not worked with carbomers, so my knowledge of them is pretty limited. But it's my understanding that they are a synthetic compound that was kind of designed to mimic the action of the hydrocolloids and gums. I know they make nice clear gels. There are other folks that know LOTS more about them than I do. To further complicate and confuse the issue, the hydrocolloids and gums are processed in various ways to allow them to function differently. For example, UltraMaize is a National Starch product called Structure XL with an INCI name of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. It's naturally derived from corn starch--but it does not resemble cornstarch that we are all familiar with from the grocery store. http://www.personalcarepolymers.com/Doc/Rpt/STRUCTURE%20XL%20Report.pdf So, you can see that UltraMaize/Structure XL is useful in many different applications. GuarSilk is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. GuarSilk functions primarily as a hair care ingredient, but can also be used in skin care. It's used in tiny amounts--0.1% - 0.5%. It's an excellent cationic conditioner, but does have some thickening properties. > > 2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate? No. The PEG 7 Olivate is made from olive oil and the PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate is made from coconut oil and glycerin (I think). They are both water soluble. > > 3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other > emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it? I would think so---try it and see what happens. If you have another PEG oil, you could try using it also. You can also make the makeup remover with a little emollient ester in it---either fractionated coconut oil or EmEster. I just especially like the PEG 7 Olivate. Good luck with it and have fun! Angie The Herbarie Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics http://www.theherbarie.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Hi , > Thank you! > I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative! > Great resource for a newbie like me. > Oh good! I'm glad you found it informative! We still have some things to finish, but hopefully it will be much better in the long run. > I've the following questions: > 1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among > xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize? Good question! I'll try to answer it! Xanthan gum, cellulose, UltraMaize, agar, etc. are all in a family that's sometimes referred to as natural or naturally derived hydrophilic colloids and gums. In this family, we have mostly polysaccharides made up of carbohydrates with repeating sugar units. Some of these hydrocolloids are cationic and some are anionic. Since these are often used in the food industry, good information can be found there on the chemical composition and the way they function. Take a look at this article: http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1993/0193CS.html These materials will dissolve/disperse in water (except for cellulose) and have a high molecule weight. They will stay sort of suspended to thicken and sometimes form a gel. I have honestly not worked with carbomers, so my knowledge of them is pretty limited. But it's my understanding that they are a synthetic compound that was kind of designed to mimic the action of the hydrocolloids and gums. I know they make nice clear gels. There are other folks that know LOTS more about them than I do. To further complicate and confuse the issue, the hydrocolloids and gums are processed in various ways to allow them to function differently. For example, UltraMaize is a National Starch product called Structure XL with an INCI name of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. It's naturally derived from corn starch--but it does not resemble cornstarch that we are all familiar with from the grocery store. http://www.personalcarepolymers.com/Doc/Rpt/STRUCTURE%20XL%20Report.pdf So, you can see that UltraMaize/Structure XL is useful in many different applications. GuarSilk is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. GuarSilk functions primarily as a hair care ingredient, but can also be used in skin care. It's used in tiny amounts--0.1% - 0.5%. It's an excellent cationic conditioner, but does have some thickening properties. > > 2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate? No. The PEG 7 Olivate is made from olive oil and the PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate is made from coconut oil and glycerin (I think). They are both water soluble. > > 3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other > emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it? I would think so---try it and see what happens. If you have another PEG oil, you could try using it also. You can also make the makeup remover with a little emollient ester in it---either fractionated coconut oil or EmEster. I just especially like the PEG 7 Olivate. Good luck with it and have fun! Angie The Herbarie Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics http://www.theherbarie.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 Angie: Thank you once again. I've another quesiton: Is Glyceryl Stearate SE the same as Glyceryl Stearate? I always seem to buy the wrong stuff.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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