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Re: clear liquid makeup remover

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Angie,

Thank you!

I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative!

Great resource for a newbie like me.

I've the following questions:

1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among

xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize?

2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate?

3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other

emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it?

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Hi ,

> Thank you!

> I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative!

> Great resource for a newbie like me.

>

Oh good! I'm glad you found it informative! We still have some things to

finish, but hopefully it will be much better in the long run.

> I've the following questions:

> 1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among

> xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize?

Good question! I'll try to answer it! Xanthan gum, cellulose, UltraMaize,

agar, etc. are all in a family that's sometimes referred to as natural or

naturally derived hydrophilic colloids and gums. In this family, we have mostly

polysaccharides made up of carbohydrates with repeating sugar units. Some of

these hydrocolloids are cationic and some are anionic. Since these are often

used in the food industry, good information can be found there on the chemical

composition and the way they function. Take a look at this article:

http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1993/0193CS.html

These materials will dissolve/disperse in water (except for cellulose) and

have a high molecule weight. They will stay sort of suspended to thicken and

sometimes form a gel.

I have honestly not worked with carbomers, so my knowledge of them is pretty

limited. But it's my understanding that they are a synthetic compound that

was kind of designed to mimic the action of the hydrocolloids and gums. I know

they make nice clear gels. There are other folks that know LOTS more about

them than I do.

To further complicate and confuse the issue, the hydrocolloids and gums are

processed in various ways to allow them to function differently. For example,

UltraMaize is a National Starch product called Structure XL with an INCI name

of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. It's naturally derived from corn

starch--but it does not resemble cornstarch that we are all familiar with from

the

grocery store.

http://www.personalcarepolymers.com/Doc/Rpt/STRUCTURE%20XL%20Report.pdf

So, you can see that UltraMaize/Structure XL is useful in many different

applications.

GuarSilk is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. GuarSilk functions

primarily as a hair care ingredient, but can also be used in skin care. It's

used in

tiny amounts--0.1% - 0.5%. It's an excellent cationic conditioner, but does

have some thickening properties.

>

> 2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate?

No. The PEG 7 Olivate is made from olive oil and the PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate

is made from coconut oil and glycerin (I think). They are both water soluble.

>

> 3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other

> emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it?

I would think so---try it and see what happens. If you have another PEG oil,

you could try using it also. You can also make the makeup remover with a

little emollient ester in it---either fractionated coconut oil or EmEster. I

just especially like the PEG 7 Olivate.

Good luck with it and have fun!

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

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Guest guest

Hi ,

> Thank you!

> I've surfed at your new web page, it's very nice and informative!

> Great resource for a newbie like me.

>

Oh good! I'm glad you found it informative! We still have some things to

finish, but hopefully it will be much better in the long run.

> I've the following questions:

> 1. is Guarsilk a kind of thickeners? What's the difference among

> xanthan gum/cellulose/carbomer/ultramaize?

Good question! I'll try to answer it! Xanthan gum, cellulose, UltraMaize,

agar, etc. are all in a family that's sometimes referred to as natural or

naturally derived hydrophilic colloids and gums. In this family, we have mostly

polysaccharides made up of carbohydrates with repeating sugar units. Some of

these hydrocolloids are cationic and some are anionic. Since these are often

used in the food industry, good information can be found there on the chemical

composition and the way they function. Take a look at this article:

http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1993/0193CS.html

These materials will dissolve/disperse in water (except for cellulose) and

have a high molecule weight. They will stay sort of suspended to thicken and

sometimes form a gel.

I have honestly not worked with carbomers, so my knowledge of them is pretty

limited. But it's my understanding that they are a synthetic compound that

was kind of designed to mimic the action of the hydrocolloids and gums. I know

they make nice clear gels. There are other folks that know LOTS more about

them than I do.

To further complicate and confuse the issue, the hydrocolloids and gums are

processed in various ways to allow them to function differently. For example,

UltraMaize is a National Starch product called Structure XL with an INCI name

of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. It's naturally derived from corn

starch--but it does not resemble cornstarch that we are all familiar with from

the

grocery store.

http://www.personalcarepolymers.com/Doc/Rpt/STRUCTURE%20XL%20Report.pdf

So, you can see that UltraMaize/Structure XL is useful in many different

applications.

GuarSilk is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. GuarSilk functions

primarily as a hair care ingredient, but can also be used in skin care. It's

used in

tiny amounts--0.1% - 0.5%. It's an excellent cationic conditioner, but does

have some thickening properties.

>

> 2. Is olive oil PEG 7 the same as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate?

No. The PEG 7 Olivate is made from olive oil and the PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate

is made from coconut oil and glycerin (I think). They are both water soluble.

>

> 3. For your Fruits and Flowers Make-up Remover, can any other

> emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20/80 replace it?

I would think so---try it and see what happens. If you have another PEG oil,

you could try using it also. You can also make the makeup remover with a

little emollient ester in it---either fractionated coconut oil or EmEster. I

just especially like the PEG 7 Olivate.

Good luck with it and have fun!

Angie

The Herbarie

Natural Source Ingredients for Toiletries & Cosmetics

http://www.theherbarie.com

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