Re: Assistance for questions after flooding

[Guest guest]

I can address some of your questions and concerns.

"My adjuster informed me that water could not get through concrete or up through the concrete floor. He also told me that the water would not come through where floor meets wall..."

Your adjuster is dead wrong on both counts. Concrete is a porous material and does allow moisture to pass through. Also, if the concrete floor was a separate pour from the walls (as is most often the case) then there is always a chance of moisture seeping through at that point of intersection.

"Our concrete basement foundation was soaked.Minimal drywall was removed and restoration company only set up two airmovers and one large dehumidifier to dry out carpets (yes they left soaked carpeting!) and basement.They did not open up walls to allow the interior concrete walls to be dried.Adjuster said that moisture meter readings were due to all the outside moisture."

Based on what you have described, you were given an entirely inadequate solution for the problems you have experienced.

"Five weeks later water was leaking in from where floor meets wall in one room and when the insulation and vapor barrier was removed it plus the concrete wall was covered in black slime. They did not clean most of it up and it has been tested as mould."

The original cleanup was not done properly and the underlying moisture problems remain.

"How long does concrete take to dry?"

That depends on how wet the soil is that the concrete is in contact with and what kind of vapor barrier is in use (and what condition the vapor barrier is in)

.. "With soaked concrete exterior walls (during very cold winter)would condensation form on the interior concrete and would seepage likely occur?"

Condensation could very easily form if the concrete walls are at or below the dew point of the basement air. Seepage would not necessarily occur but could if you have grading and drainage problems around the structure. The flooding situation you described with holes forming indicate that you do have grading and drainage problems that need to be resolved.

"Would having erosions around your home and a poorly graded yard allow water and condensation to keep entering the home?"

Yes

"What is all the white stuff that has formed on my concrete floor?"

That is called efflorescence and it consists of minerals that are being brought up out of the concrete by the moisture coming through. The moisture evaporates and leaves the mineral deposits behind to build up in a white powdery substance.

"We have more than 10 square feet of visible black mould, how should we remediate?"

Some kind of cleanup is obviously needed and you need to get control over the moisture issues or the mold will just come back. Whether or not you need a remediation contractor to do this work for you would be subject to debate but I would give it serious consideration.

"Is our home safe to live in?"

Your home is not necessarily unsafe to live in. There are many factors to consider in making a judgment in that regard and the individual sensitivities of your family members would need to be taken into consideration. Someone qualified is going to have to make a first hand evaluation of your circumstances in order to answer that question.

"What kinds of bacteria could be in the carpets that still have the clay,dirt etc from the outside?"

ly, the carpet and padding should have been removed and discarded. I would still recommend that it be removed and thrown away. Appropriate cleaning (and drying) of the exposed concrete surfaces is going to be needed before installing any new floor materials.

"Our homes weeping tile has been compromised, should we repair that first or the mould?"

The order is less important as making sure that you do both before you do any kind of build-back. No mold problem is ever solved in detail until the underlying moisture problem(s) have been addressed.

"Should I attempt myself to remove the carpets and clean the mould or have a professional assist?

I suggest that you should hire someone locally who is qualified to come in and give you an assessment of what you have. They will be able to recommend the best course of action.

The insurance company who botched this job should come back and make this right. I would however insist on a different adjuster, this guy is ignorant at best, deceitful at worst, or is not allowed to prescribe the right solution for you because of the insurance company's policies. For starters, get a new adjuster and if a more reasonable solution is not forthcoming then contact your board of insurance and file a complaint against them.

Be sure and fully document anything you do on your own. I would also recommend that you consider talking with an attorney. You have gotten off to the bad start and if it does not get better quickly, you may ultimately need one. Getting some advice on what to do and what not to do now may save you further grief latter on.

Best of luck to you,

Phil S.

Assistance for questions after flooding

On February 2004 there was a large water main and fire hydrant break which flooded my property, left holes around my homes foundation, destroyed my landscaping and water poured down the sides of my home and under the floor. Our basement only took about an inch of water inside and basically all the floors and carpets, part of the drywll and paneling were soaked. My adjuster informed me that water could not get through concrete or up through the concrete floor.He aslo told me that the water would not come through where floor meets wall even though there was quite a bit of outside muck that had flowed into the carpet. Our concrete basement foundation was soaked.Minimal drywall was removed and restoration company only set up two airmovers and one large dehumidifier to dry out carpets (yes they left soaked carpeting!) and basement.They did not open up walls to allow the interior concrete walls to be dried.Adjuster said that moisture meter readings were due to all the outside moisture.Five weeks later water was leaking in from where floor meets wall in one room and when the insulation and vapor barrier was removed it plus the concrete wall was covered in black slime. They did not clean most of it up and it has been tested as mould.There appears to be lots of mould behind the remaing insulation and drywall. Carpets are disgusting too.Questions:How long does concrete take to dry?With soaked concrete exterior walls (during very cold winter)would condensation form on the interior concrete and would seepage likely occur?Would having erosions around your home and a poorly graded yard allow water and condensation to keep entering the home?What is all the white stuff that has formed on my concrete floor?We have more than 10 square feet of visible black mould, how should we remediate?Is our home safe to live in?What kinds of bacteria could be in the carpets that still have the clay,dirt etc from the outside?Our homes weeping tile has been compromised, should we repair that first or the mould?Should I attempt myself to remove the carpets and clean the mould or have a proffessional assist?Please help.FAIR USE NOTICE:This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright owner.

[Guest guest]

>

>

> On February 2004 there was a large water main and fire hydrant

break

> which flooded my property, left holes around my homes foundation,

> destroyed my landscaping and water poured down the sides of my home

> and under the floor. Our basement only took about an inch of water

> inside and basically all the floors and carpets, part of the drywll

> and paneling were soaked. My adjuster informed me that water could

> not get through concrete or up through the concrete floor.He aslo

> told me that the water would not come through where floor meets

wall

> even though there was quite a bit of outside muck that had flowed

> into the carpet. Our concrete basement foundation was soaked.

> Minimal drywall was removed and restoration company only set up two

> airmovers and one large dehumidifier to dry out carpets (yes they

> left soaked carpeting!) and basement.

> They did not open up walls to allow the interior concrete walls to

> be dried.Adjuster said that moisture meter readings were due to all

> the outside moisture.

> Five weeks later water was leaking in from where floor meets wall

in

> one room and when the insulation and vapor barrier was removed it

> plus the concrete wall was covered in black slime. They did not

> clean most of it up and it has been tested as mould.

> There appears to be lots of mould behind the remaing insulation and

> drywall. Carpets are disgusting too.

> Questions:

> How long does concrete take to dry?

> With soaked concrete exterior walls (during very cold winter)would

> condensation form on the interior concrete and would seepage likely

> occur?

> Would having erosions around your home and a poorly graded yard

> allow water and condensation to keep entering the home?

> What is all the white stuff that has formed on my concrete floor?

> We have more than 10 square feet of visible black mould, how should

> we remediate?

> Is our home safe to live in?

> What kinds of bacteria could be in the carpets that still have the

> clay,dirt etc from the outside?

> Our homes weeping tile has been compromised, should we repair that

> first or the mould?

> Should I attempt myself to remove the carpets and clean the mould

or

> have a proffessional assist?

> Please help.

Important that you monitor your indoor %RH through this cleanup

process. If your are exceding 60%RH any place inside the structure

for several days, you have the potiential to grow mold. Meters @

Radio Shack/Wal-Mart for $15. Extreme dehumidification is required

to dryout in a timely manner like 2-3 days. Than maintain <50%RH

forever.