RE: good lotion recipe, please

[Guest guest]

Jackie,

TEA is the shorthand for triethanolamine. This is a weak base that will

neutralize the carboxylic acid groups in the stearic acid to form the

TEA-Stearate soap. The typical use level of Stearic acid to form an

emulsifier is between 3 and 5% W/W. The stoichiometric relationship between

stearic acid and TEA is 3 parts Stearic Acid and 1 part TEA. Therefore if

your formula has 3 % stearic acid in it then you will need 1% TEA to

neutralize the stearic acid forming the soap.

Lecithin is a weak auxiliary emulsifier. It was never meant to be the

primary emulsifier in a cream or a lotion.

Methylparaben and propylparaben are preservatives. They have their primary

activity against yeast and mold. The typical usage level of methylparaben is

0.20% in the water phase and 0.10% propylparaben in the oil phase. You will

also need another preservative that is active against bacteria like

diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol or Quaternium-15.

Carbomers are carboxylic acid polymers that form gels when neutralized with

a base. The can be added to an emulsion at very low levels to provide

viscosity control and impart improved stability to an emulsion. Carbomer can

also be used to form clear water-soluble gels like the old Dippity Do from

many years ago. They are frequently used today to form the vehicle used in

the glitter gels. When using a carbomer to control viscosity in an emulsion,

the normal usage level may be from 0.05-0.50%. An equal amount of TEA is use

to neutralize the carbomer. To form a clear, water-soluble gel higher levels

are used. These may be 1% depending how thick you want the gel to be. Again

an equal amount of TEA is used to neutralize the carbomer. Other bases can

be used to neutralize the carbomer if desired.

Finally, recapping the basic rules to control the viscosity of an O/W

emulsion; to increase the viscosity increase the concentration of the

internal phase (oil phase), Increase the melting point of the internal

phase, and increase the viscosity of the external phase by using a

hydrocolloid. The carbomer is an example of the last rule. Please look in

the archives. I have discussed this several times in the past.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: good lotion recipe, please

<<TEA 99 at 1-1.3% depending on the percentage of

stearic acid in your formula>>

what is TEA and what will it do to the stearic acid? I have a problem

with stearic acid in that I don't know when to stop to make it thick enough.

Is this what the TEA does in some form (what am I saying?).

Alright what is a <<You will need to stabilize your product with a small

amount of

carbomer>>?

And the $60 question what is methylparaben and the other poly....xxxxparaben

anyway?

What the heck thickens a lotion? Last time I tried lechithin (raw form not

liquid) I had to dump a ton in there to get it to thicken. Do most products

use the liquid form of this (just found it at the HFS after months of

digging.)?

Getting a headache.

Jackie

Jackie

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[Guest guest]

Jackie,

Yes or water soluble ingredients.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: good lotion recipe, please

In a message dated 1/1/01 7:39:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, @...

writes:

> Keep your oil phase percentage to 10% or less.

Does this mean 90 percent water?

Jackie

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