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Re: Sandalwood which one?

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 Hi :)

Well Santalum Album is considered the best of the best, also called Mysore. But

very careful when buying, because if its cheap, its most likely fake. It is sort

a rarer EO, so that explains the price (rarer due to the supply is endangered).

The other Santalums are great too, cheaper, and not as endangered. I like

Oshadi's and Eden Botanicals santalum austrocaledonicum, very smooth and

elegantly woody. Good luck!Aer

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I've tried more a few from different suppliers and of different

genus/plant type or whatever, and I keep coming back to one my local

herbalist get from somewhere (I'd love to know where but what can you

do...its actually a good price when you compare it to others).

Its the

only one that has such a complex combination of sweet and sour, woody

and sooty, and with this powdery aspect as it dries out...and lasts at

least a day really even if you shower. The name of the supplier is

Cheryl's Herbs in St. Louis, Mo and its a Santalum Album. Enjoy!

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>

> I've tried more a few from different suppliers and of different

> genus/plant type or whatever, and I keep coming back to one my local

> herbalist get from somewhere (I'd love to know where but what can you

> do...its actually a good price when you compare it to others).

>

> Its the

> only one that has such a complex combination of sweet and sour, woody

> and sooty, and with this powdery aspect as it dries out...and lasts at

> least a day really even if you shower. The name of the supplier is

> Cheryl's Herbs in St. Louis, Mo and its a Santalum Album. Enjoy!

>

I have not seen an authentic and good quality Santalum album oil available in

any quantity in a long time. You can get authentic oil, but it is anemic -

distilled from immature wood at high pressure. Just dull, though it will dry

down to the yummy sandalwood base. The Sri Lanka oil is like that to me. Real,

but dull.

Apparently Australia has major plantations coming up, with the first harvests

not that long away. Most is already pre-purchased by perfume mfrs. but Albert

Vielle (which will sell to small fry) is among those who have staked a claim on

this harvest.

Wonder about quality - the clones they are using are distillable in something

like only 5-7 year (thereabouts). If this produces an acceptable oil (and the

variables that determine which trees have a good yield have not been identified

- it is somewhat random) this will make Australia the largest producer of

" Indian " sandalwood on Earth.

Ironic, but a great thing if it results in the sustainable (in this case

actually EXPANDING) harvest of this resource!

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> That is great but you should be aware that this would be a different

> species - Santalum spicatum - and it is not a substitute for Indian

> sandalwood though I LOVE this oil in its own right and literally wear

> it daily I'll take a good spicatum over a bland album for sheer

> enjoyment anyway, but it is only an olfactory cousin, not a sibling.

>

No shit, I'd never have guessed that.

I've been working with various sandalwoods for 20 years. I eventually

started working with the Australian sandalwood because the Indian was so

unreliable, expensive and so often adulterated. Of course it's not

identical, it's a different species.

But I find the one I use fills the same niche in perfumery as the Indian

one. And is far more einvormentally friendly.

> If you search a bit and want to educate yourself you can find

> collections of academic papers on this subject from Agro-science

> conferences and from forest service publications.

>

You don't say. Don't try and teach Grandma to suck eggs. Esp. not one

who actually lives and works in Australia.

Sigh...it's blazingly hot here and I'm melting in my workshop, so I may

be over reacting, but your tone comes across as really condescending.

There are a large number of very knowledgeable people on this list mate.

Ambrosia

http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

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>

> > That is great but you should be aware that this would be a different

> > species - Santalum spicatum - and it is not a substitute for Indian

> > sandalwood though I LOVE this oil in its own right and literally wear

> > it daily I'll take a good spicatum over a bland album for sheer

> > enjoyment anyway, but it is only an olfactory cousin, not a sibling.

> >

>

> No shit, I'd never have guessed that.

> I've been working with various sandalwoods for 20 years. I eventually

> started working with the Australian sandalwood because the Indian was so

> unreliable, expensive and so often adulterated. Of course it's not

> identical, it's a different species.

> But I find the one I use fills the same niche in perfumery as the Indian

> one. And is far more einvormentally friendly.

>

> > If you search a bit and want to educate yourself you can find

> > collections of academic papers on this subject from Agro-science

> > conferences and from forest service publications.

> >

>

> You don't say. Don't try and teach Grandma to suck eggs. Esp. not one

> who actually lives and works in Australia.

>

> Sigh...it's blazingly hot here and I'm melting in my workshop, so I may

> be over reacting, but your tone comes across as really condescending.

> There are a large number of very knowledgeable people on this list mate.

>

> Ambrosia

> http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

> http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

>

Seems I rubbed you the wrong way, sorry.

In the discussion, it seemed like the word sandalwood was being used in a

non-specific way and the OP was asking about help distinguishing among the

varieties. I don't even know you, so I couldn't really be condescending to you

personally.

What is it that hurt your feelings? The last bit about self-education? Please

read the post that started this thread, then re-read my message, and if you

still feel this was some personal affront to your status, well, maybe that has

more to do with your state of mind. Again, whoever you are, don't take it

personally. .

Anyway, I know people are knowledgeable here, that's why i signed up. Are you

saying it is arrogant to share something I read in a confident manner without

first asking people if they already knew it? That would be really tedious.

I am confused, but have been in enough groups to not be surprised. Take it

easy...

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> Seems I rubbed you the wrong way, sorry.

>

> In the discussion, it seemed like the word sandalwood was being used in a

non-specific way and the OP was asking about help distinguishing among the

varieties. I don't even know you, so I couldn't really be condescending to you

personally.

>

> What is it that hurt your feelings? The last bit about self-education?

Please read the post that started this thread, then re-read my message, and if

you still feel this was some personal affront to your status, well, maybe that

has more to do with your state of mind. Again, whoever you are, don't take it

personally. .

>

> Anyway, I know people are knowledgeable here, that's why i signed up. Are you

saying it is arrogant to share something I read in a confident manner without

first asking people if they already knew it? That would be really tedious.

>

> I am confused, but have been in enough groups to not be surprised. Take it

easy...

>

Hi Ambrosia,

We try to maintain civility on this group, and that means please

don't snark and hit " send " if you feel you're being harsh to

someone, even if you feel you are insulted. Best to take it

private, or ask the moderators to help smoothing things over. A

few years ago, we had some terrible incidents with perfumers who

use synths coming to this group and insulting us very directly.

Ambrosia, I truly feel, knowing on this group for many

years, he was not being condescending. I think his explanation

above is a lovely olive branch. You're both great people, and

I'd hate to see hurt feelings on either side.

A few examples of those who are known for attacking other members

on their group, for a real or imagined slight: " You're stupid if

you think you can make good perfume without synths. " " The only

reason you won't let me post what I want is because I'm more

intelligent than you and you can't take it. " " Expletive (female

cuss words) are like Nazis here. " ad nauseum. They were put on

moderation, and all quit. Folks on another group where they post

write me sometimes when they blow up against other group

members. I feel public nastiness is out of place on a group.

Ambrosia's mild bristle at what she felt was a condescending

comment was just that, mild, and I do hope that 's response

has smoothed things over.

PS have *no* idea about the comment grandma sucking eggs. Sounds

funky, please explain ;-)

Anya McCoy

http://AnyasGarden.com

http://PerfumeClasses.com

http://NaturalPerfumers.com

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>

> Australia already produces some really lovely Sandalwood oil and has

> done for some years....

> I have found a really wonderful supplier and am about to place another

> large order...if people are intrested, I will buy a larger quantitiy and

> sell small amounts?!

>

> Ambrosia

> http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

>

Hi Ambrosia,

That is a kind and great idea. I must tell you I have a 10 year old Australian

sandalwood. It is to die for! However, when I first got it and the early years

to follow it didn't float my boat, so to speak.

I have learned to be patient!

Aging certain woods really produces fabulous results and I am quite sad to be

down to my last ounce. I have already allocated it to a special body butter I

make just for my Mom who is 75.

I had a pound of this lovely Australian Sandalwood to start out with and shared

it with the world. ( used in several of my perfumes )

But, I would be lying if I said I didn't wish I have more.

It's all about balance.

Have a great day,

Trace

www.myskinsoapstudio.com

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I must tell you I have a 10 year old Australian sandalwood. It is to die for!

Yes, certain ingredients improve so well with age that it is worth the wait. I

had a small amount of a 4 year aged Sandalwood from Mysore that Eden sold last

year (or the year before I don't remember) and it was the best Sandalwood I'd

ever smelled. Another ingredient that ages wonderfully is Patchouli. I recently

received a bottle of 5 year aged Patchouli from Floracopeia and it is absolutely

wonderful, very smooth, sweet, and deep.

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>

> Ambrosia's mild bristle at what she felt was a condescending

> comment was just that, mild, and I do hope that 's response

> has smoothed things over.

>

> PS have *no* idea about the comment grandma sucking eggs. Sounds

> funky, please explain ;-)

Sorry about the dummy spit

We had a ridiculously hot day here yesterday and everyone was snapping at

everyone else.

Further north Oz has had a massive cyclone so I shouldn't complain about the

heat but boy! My trees have been shrivelling up and my pond is almost dried

upambrosia

Don't teach your Grandma to suck eggs is an Australian expression which

basically means don't lecture people who know what they are talking about

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Sent from my iPhone

> So no one likes the African one? (Osyris lanceolata)

>

Basically no

It's quite heavy and woody and lacks the beautiful sweetness if the others

Ambrosia

>

>

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To: NaturalPerfumery

Sent: Wed, February 2, 2011 11:11:23 AM

Subject: Re: Sandalwood which one?

 

>

> So no one likes the African one? (Osyris lanceolata)

>

Is that the one that is also known as Muhuhu(god, I love that word :D )

*******************************************************

Hi ,

I have some nice Muhuhu that I got from Eden a long time ago. ( I love that name

too.) It is Brachyleana hutchinsii. It also grows in Africa.  It has a passing

similarity to Sandalwood I suppose but not nearly as soft and buttery. I think

maybe it smells more like a good cedar??

I'd be interested in knowing more about this other one, since I don't think I've

ever heard of it before.  

Patty

Ganache for Lips

http://www.ganacheforlips.com

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________________________________

To: " NaturalPerfumery " <NaturalPerfumery >

Sent: Wed, February 2, 2011 11:13:01 AM

Subject: Re: Re: Sandalwood which one?

 

>

> Ambrosia's mild bristle at what she felt was a condescending

> comment was just that, mild, and I do hope that 's response

> has smoothed things over.

>

> PS have *no* idea about the comment grandma sucking eggs. Sounds

> funky, please explain ;-)

Sorry about the dummy spit

We had a ridiculously hot day here yesterday and everyone was snapping at

everyone else.

Further north Oz has had a massive cyclone so I shouldn't complain about the

heat but boy! My trees have been shrivelling up and my pond is almost dried

upambrosia

Don't teach your Grandma to suck eggs is an Australian expression which

basically means don't lecture people who know what they are talking about

*****************************************************

Hi Ambrosia

I had to chuckle in recognition when I read your post. And I always appreciate

some good sarcasm. Yep, the heat makes my cranky too, especially when I'm trying

to get something done in the midst of  it. Best fix is an ice cold s Lager

!

I don't think 's post was aimed at you, but the group as a whole. I, for

one, appreciated the info, because I'm embarrassingly ignorant about such stuff.

I hope that hot spell lets up soon for 'ya!

 Patty

Ganache for Lips

http://www.ganacheforlips.com

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>

>

>

> > So no one likes the African one? (Osyris lanceolata)

> >

I just want to point out that although you often find that both Brachylaena

hutchinsii and Osyris lanceolata are called African Sandalwood it is Osyris

lanceolata that is better called African Sandalwood. Osyris lanceolata does have

a concentration of santalols and santalyl acetate. The best quality and quantity

of oil came from populations of relatively arid climates compared to those of

humid climates. Brachylaena hutchinsii is what is called Muhuhu in Swahili, not

Osyris lanceolata. I am a fan of Muhuhu and use it extensively as I love the

deep dark heavy spicy woodiness of its scent that is well rounded without any

sharp notes; very characteristically African. It blends particularly well with

Cocoa Abs, Coffee and Tobacco notes and heavy sweet florals like Ylang Ylang but

I will not call it a Sandalwood, it rather reminds me of teak.

Sophia

www.africanaromatics.com

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Hi,

I know there have been lots of posts already on this, but I thought I should

mention that we get our wonderful quality Santalum Album from New Caledonia.

The government here controls the production of a relatively fast growing island

sub-species, so not only is it good quality, it's a sustainable source. Alec

Lawless searched long and hard before settling on this source of supply.

There's a chapter in Alec's book on the subject, too.

Best wishes

Sian

http://www.essentially-me.co.uk

http://www.aqua-oleum.co.uk

http://aleclawless.blogspot.com

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>

>

>

>>

>> So no one likes the African one? (Osyris lanceolata)

>>

> Is that the one that is also known as Muhuhu(god, I love that word :D )

>

Hi , Bradley and Folks..

@....

Agree on the word muhuhu also....<G>...! But is not the the same wood,

though I believe there is an EO out there...Different species...

@Bradley....

I will be honest....I did not even know of the African

" sandalwood " ...I'm using quotes because is not a Santalum...

One of the fun parts of this stuff, is investigating all the little

scent nooks and crannies...

With a species name like Osyris lanceolata, I'm gonna hafta add it to my

list of " to gets " ....

That's almost as cool as muhuhu....<G>...!

--

W. Bourbonais

L'Hermite Aromatique

A.J.P. (GIA)

http://www.facebook.com/Le.Hermite

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Glad I could add something to someone's to-get list. My work here is done.

It came to mind because it is about 1/2 to 1/3 the price of the other 2 so I

just had to know what it was worth.

-- B

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I agree muhu sounds and smells wonderful, only been to north Africa but I can

safely say it smells of Africa. I purchased a small amount from White lotus and

it's up there in the fav's

Also make's u sound like a sinister perfumer... Muhuhuuhu.

Sandalwood is relaxing isn't it?

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> So no one likes the African one? (Osyris lanceolata)

East African Sandalwood (it is in the sandalwood family, unlike

Muhuhu). It can be nice if it is distilled from good quality wood and

then aged properly. It is more similar to Australian sw or New

Caledonian/ Vanuatu than Indian sw. It is closer in aroma to Indian

sw than Muhuhu, which is its own unique essence and from a tree that

is not in the sandalwood family....

I like to look at each essence individually (on its own), as well as

comparing them to other species. East African sw can be quite nice.

But it does has the same problems as other sw species (and other wild

aromatic trees) though. There are only so many trees, and once they

are cut they are gone, and if one plants new ones (could be doubtful

in East Africa, but who knows?) they will take a long time to grow

back. They grow in a limited geographical range.

I know of very few companies selling Osyris in N. America, and have

never tried any of their samples. The samples I have are from two

different distillers. I have never bought it, primarily due to

environmental reasons - rather than aromatic issues.

Happy blending!

Will

Eden Botanicals

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> I know there have been lots of posts already on this, but I thought

> I should mention that we get our wonderful quality Santalum Album

> from New Caledonia. The government here controls the production of

> a relatively fast growing island sub-species, so not only is it good

> quality, it's a sustainable source. Alec Lawless searched long and

> hard before settling on this source of supply.

>

> There's a chapter in Alec's book on the subject, too.

>

> Best wishes

> Sian

Santalum austrocaledonicum?

From New Caledonia or Vanuatu?

It is stretch to say any sw source is sustainable. Vanuatu (as a

country) seems to be doing the best in this regard, but sustainable

means over time (into the future). And a change in government or

policy can change everything pretty quickly.

Perhaps one could say a source is sustainable within an agricultural

system, as long as the agricultural system keeps functioning. Since it

is a valuable crop it will continue to be planted and grown. Wild

sources are difficult to manage as sustainable unless there are large

tracks of land and trees are being selectively cut and carefully out-

planted - and a good management system is in place, that does not

change for the worse. I don't know the conditions or governmental

policy in NC. It would be interesting to know how much wild land they

have, how many trees are allowed to be cut how they are harvested,

etc. I do like the sw oil from NC.

The pressure is on all sw sources since India is not able to provide

what they historically have to the world sw market. So, even rarely

distilled species like Muhuhu are being distilled again and at a

higher rate.

Cheers,

Will

Eden Botanicals

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Hi everyone,

For those interested in the New Caledonia sandalwood, the tourism office in New

Caledonia has a whole detail page on their website where they explain since when

and where sandalwood is being extracted on the main island and the smaller

islands:

http://www.nouvellecaledonietourisme-sud.com/en/discover-new-caledonia/zoom/769-\

le-santal-santalum-austrocaledonicum

For info, the Mare distillation plant is a unit using the Florasol/Hydrosol

extraction process. The unit has been set up by Dr Wilde for et.

I spent my childhood in New Caledonia and sandalwood together with tiare flower

and niaouli are the first plants I played with to concoct perfumes when I was

10. Such lovely and warm memories!

Isabelle

www.lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk

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