Guest guest Posted October 11, 2006 Report Posted October 11, 2006 That might help depending of a/c unit. The ones here were tilted inward so water in bottom doesn't drain out so it sits in unit like a little lake. Maintenance people here at hotel said it's because the units are heavier on side that is inside building so they tend to tilt inward over time. If they are tilted inward then water doesn't reach the drain lines sufficiently to drain out completely. Usually the a/c unit goes on and off by itself so you'd have to operate it totally manually. If you did that it might help. Say run it only while at home and when it has cooled enough, turn the a/c off but the fan on for long enough to dry out and then shut off. Then check angle of unit so it is level enough for all water to drain out of pan. Would be helpful. > > Hello, > > I had an additional idea about window unit AC's, > such as the one we have. > > Before turning them off, I think mold can be > greatly inhibited by running it on fan only > for about 15 minutes. This allows the coils > and duct work to get dryed out before shutting > it off. > > Ours has a mode switch/remote where I can > change from cooling to fan only. If your doesn't > have that feature, then you could simply run > the thermostat up as far as it would go until > the condensor turned off. > > When I finally realized that this was a very > good idea, I was like, " Do I have to be hit > by a brick, or something? " I mean like Duh ! I've > only been running one of these things for 20 > years. > > Hope this helps someone, > Zippy > Quote
Guest guest Posted October 11, 2006 Report Posted October 11, 2006 Zippy, I wholeheartedly agree. It's less convenient for a car A/C but it works great there also. (3-4 minutes should suffice for a car). Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Hello, > > I had an additional idea about window unit AC's, > such as the one we have. > > Before turning them off, I think mold can be > greatly inhibited by running it on fan only > for about 15 minutes. This allows the coils > and duct work to get dryed out before shutting > it off. > > Ours has a mode switch/remote where I can > change from cooling to fan only. If your doesn't > have that feature, then you could simply run > the thermostat up as far as it would go until > the condensor turned off. > > When I finally realized that this was a very > good idea, I was like, " Do I have to be hit > by a brick, or something? " I mean like Duh ! I've > only been running one of these things for 20 > years. > > Hope this helps someone, > Zippy Quote
Guest guest Posted October 11, 2006 Report Posted October 11, 2006 Have any of you seen the tablets that are sold at Lowes you put in the drain area? They don't say anything specific about fungi but I got some anyway and thought I would give it a shot. They say you can use them also in the home units. Chris... " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote: Zippy, I wholeheartedly agree. It's less convenient for a car A/C but it works great there also. (3-4 minutes should suffice for a car). Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Hello, > > I had an additional idea about window unit AC's, > such as the one we have. > > Before turning them off, I think mold can be > greatly inhibited by running it on fan only > for about 15 minutes. This allows the coils > and duct work to get dryed out before shutting > it off. > > Ours has a mode switch/remote where I can > change from cooling to fan only. If your doesn't > have that feature, then you could simply run > the thermostat up as far as it would go until > the condensor turned off. > > When I finally realized that this was a very > good idea, I was like, " Do I have to be hit > by a brick, or something? " I mean like Duh ! I've > only been running one of these things for 20 > years. > > Hope this helps someone, > Zippy Life is a balance of holding on and letting go... --------------------------------- How low will we go? Check out Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates. Quote
Guest guest Posted October 11, 2006 Report Posted October 11, 2006 If there is standing water in unit, chemical might stay in there and vapors be sprayed into room. I think if unit drain is stopped up, buying a new drain line might be better, maybe something you could get from manufacturer. If that isn't possible, at least make sure your unit is able to drain properly first. If it isn't draining properly, try what they did at the hotel where I am, they cut off some wood studs and propped a/c unit up to height that made it level and would drain properly or at least better. They had to cut where it was caulked to wall first to readjust angle of a/c unit. Then put the filter material over air intake grill as Jeff May suggests to keep dirt from coming in with the air. I found that air was also coming in from under unit where there was a gap in a/c box seal so make sure you cover all areas that are pulling in air. You can easily tell where you need filter material by using your hand to feel air movement. He suggested WEbb filter material. I couldn't find it so bought 3M Filtrete material but it is kind of costly so I might try interface material mentioned by Carl next time. > > Have any of you seen the tablets that are sold at Lowes you put in the drain area? They don't say anything specific about fungi but I got some anyway and thought I would give it a shot. They say you can use them also in the home units. > Chris... > > Quote
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