Removing Mold From Oil Paintings

[Guest guest]

There have been several people asking questions about

saving/cleaning their paintings. I thought this information may be

helpful.

Removing Mold From Oil Paintings

American Artist

http://www.myamericanartist.com/2006/10/technical_q_a_r.html

Q: I accidentally stored oil paintings with wooden stretchers in

damp conditions (a leaky garden shed) for many years. Patches of

black mold are growing on the backs of some paintings; white mold is

growing on the backs of others. Is there a way to treat the mold

without further staining or damaging the paintings?

A: Generally, direct exposure to intense sunlight and fresh, dry air

will stop the growth of mold. The back sides of the paintings should

be exposed directly to the sun. Once dried out, the mold can be

gently brushed off using a soft toothbrush, and the fronts of the

paintings can be wiped down with a soft cloth. In this case it is

probably advisable to take the paintings off the stretchers and

restretch the paintings on new stretcher bars. Mold is a fungus

that, in dark, damp conditions, flourishes on wood, sized fabrics,

and paint films. It first appears as a white, feathery growth and

quickly turns blackish as the spores of the mold turn into a denser

substance. Mold may reappear in conditions of high humidity, so it's

important to store the paintings where they are not exposed to

atmospheric changes. If the paintings require further treatment it

is best to consult a conservator.

Cleaning Stained Watercolor Works

Q: I've noticed some stains developing on a watercolor painting. Is

sodium hypochlorite an appropriate cleaner for the stained areas?

A: The appearance of greenish-gray or brown stains that resemble

iron rust on paper is called foxing, and the stains are

characterized as mold or mildew. In certain conditions, a bleaching

agent, such as sodium hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide, might clear

some of the foxing, but it may also lighten the watercolor paper,

which is why it's not recommended. Another way to kill mold is to

expose it to circulating, dry air and sunlight; however, this is not

recommended for a watercolor work either, as watercolors are known

to fade with exposure to direct sunlight. Since every conservation

and repair issue is unique, it's dangerous to generalize without

examining the specific artwork in question. As a general rule, when

it comes to the art and science of repair and the conservation of

artwork, it's recommended to consult a professionally trained

conservator. To locate a conservator in your area, contact the

nearest museum. When seeking durable methods and quality materials

you should know that there are some watercolor papers on the market

today that have built-in fungicides, which reduce the possibility

that mold or mildew will develop. It's also important to store

papers in a closed cabinet between sheets of acid-free paper or

glassine, where they will be protected from such environmental

hazards as dust, pollution, and temperature and humidity changes.

Q: I accidentally stored oil paintings with wooden stretchers in

damp conditions (a leaky garden shed) for many years. Patches of

black mold are growing on the backs of some paintings; white mold is

growing on the backs of others. Is there a way to treat the mold

without further staining or damaging the paintings?

A: Generally, direct exposure to intense sunlight and fresh, dry air

will stop the growth of mold. The back sides of the paintings should

be exposed directly to the sun. Once dried out, the mold can be

gently brushed off using a soft toothbrush, and the fronts of the

paintings can be wiped down with a soft cloth. In this case it is

probably advisable to take the paintings off the stretchers and

restretch the paintings on new stretcher bars. Mold is a fungus

that, in dark, damp conditions, flourishes on wood, sized fabrics,

and paint films. It first appears as a white, feathery growth and

quickly turns blackish as the spores of the mold turn into a denser

substance. Mold may reappear in conditions of high humidity, so it's

important to store the paintings where they are not exposed to

atmospheric changes. If the paintings require further treatment it

is best to consult a conservator.

Cleaning Stained Watercolor Works

Q: I've noticed some stains developing on a watercolor painting. Is

sodium hypochlorite an appropriate cleaner for the stained areas?

A: The appearance of greenish-gray or brown stains that resemble

iron rust on paper is called foxing, and the stains are

characterized as mold or mildew. In certain conditions, a bleaching

agent, such as sodium hypochlorite or hydrogen peroxide, might clear

some of the foxing, but it may also lighten the watercolor paper,

which is why it's not recommended. Another way to kill mold is to

expose it to circulating, dry air and sunlight; however, this is not

recommended for a watercolor work either, as watercolors are known

to fade with exposure to direct sunlight. Since every conservation

and repair issue is unique, it's dangerous to generalize without

examining the specific artwork in question. As a general rule, when

it comes to the art and science of repair and the conservation of

artwork, it's recommended to consult a professionally trained

conservator. To locate a conservator in your area, contact the

nearest museum. When seeking durable methods and quality materials

you should know that there are some watercolor papers on the market

today that have built-in fungicides, which reduce the possibility

that mold or mildew will develop. It's also important to store

papers in a closed cabinet between sheets of acid-free paper or

glassine, where they will be protected from such environmental

hazards as dust, pollution, and temperature and humidity changes.