Guest guest Posted September 6, 2006 Report Posted September 6, 2006 eye goggles and a mask AFTER having removed about 14 rugs(that probably also had mold) that were on TOP of the original carpet? Or would the vacuum generate too much air current to move the mold into " airbourne " particles, thereby worsening my already 24/7 BURNING eyes, mouth tongue, throat? Aso, regarding ac/heating vents(not uptake vents), what brand of (homemade?) filters can cover and fit over the 16 plus air vents in my house....where can I buy them??? The change to high grade filter for uptake locations(4) has not helped at all! I'm trying to determine IF the average heating/ac service out there is worth paying to come and do " maintainance " on the ac/heat units....do they REALLY clean off the mold, dust etc with the correct chemical etc or do they just eyeball it and say its good...I would be standing over them to see where coils and pan are located to do it MYSELF next time....are those guys ABLE/know how to clean THOROUGHLY the system? Thanks greatly for input. Bad symptoms happened AUG 4 and have blown me away with fatigue/ no energy dizzy 24/7. Just not CERTAIN of the cause...spent bunch of $$$$ at ER yesterday nd doc today and last week,,,,NO ONE KNOWS...all blood work is negative! Thanks Shybasset Quote
Guest guest Posted September 7, 2006 Report Posted September 7, 2006 shybasset, Several comments, with caution. ....is it okay to vacuum my carpet wearing.... > eye goggles and a mask AFTER having removed about 14 rugs(that > probably also had mold) that were on TOP of the original carpet? Are you vacuuming the 14 or just the bottom carpet? What kind of floor is under the bottom carpet? Why such a tall stack? Were they in storage? Inside conditions or an outside storage unit? Your mask should be at least an N95, available from most hardware department, especially Home Depot. The standard stiff dust mask is rarely good enough. If you are especially sensivite you may need a HEPA rated mask, rated as N100. > Or > would the vacuum generate too much air current to move the mold > into " airbourne " particles, First, you should use a vacuum with a HEPA filter on the exhaust or run a hose from the exhaust to the outside. Does the vacuum have a power head (with rotating brush)? That will stir up whatever particles are in the carpet (dander, mold, dust, etc) around the brush and all of it won't be drawn into the vacuum. > thereby worsening my already 24/7 BURNING > eyes, mouth tongue, throat? If you are that reactive I'd definitely have somebody else do this work. The more you are exposed the greater the risk of increasing your sensitivity. Which will require an extra-ordinary cleaning effort to remove enough of the " dirt " to a level below your reaction. Nothing removes all the " stuff " so the key is how clean does it have to be so you can stop cleaning? > Aso, regarding ac/heating vents(not uptake vents), what brand of > (homemade?) filters can cover and fit over the 16 plus air vents in my > house....where can I buy them??? First, you have to be careful you don't restrict the airflow too much to affect the motor, cooling coils and heat exchanger. Second, there are filters on the market but they are very expensive. Instead, go to a clothing store and buy interface material, medium weight. They will filter just as well as anything else that will still let sufficient air through and cost 10 times less. > The change to high grade filter for > uptake locations(4) has not helped at all! This is most likely because the blower blades and the ducting beyond the uptake is dirty. Not just the vents you can look down but the long, horizontal trunk lines where most of the " stuff " will have settled. You can't reach it to do it yourself. > I'm trying to determine IF > the average heating/ac service out there is worth paying to come and > do " maintainance " on the ac/heat units.... They don't clean the air distribution system, only where the flame is. > do they REALLY clean off the > mold, dust etc You need a professional duct cleaning company that will clean according to the NADCA ACR2006 standard. You can search for a certified company from their Web site at : www.nadca.com You can even download the standard for free to check out the details yourself, if you are so inclined. > with the correct chemical etc or do they just eyeball > it and say its good... They shouldn't be using chemicals. Especially not anything to kill mold. The only anti-microbials registered with EPA that can be used legally in ducts REQUIRE by law that the ducts be clean before application. Also, using chemicals risks adding to your exposure from the chemicals themselves. Also, the standard define " cleanliness " but it may not be clean enough for you. You need to discuss this with them before they start work. > I would be standing over them to see where coils > and pan are located to do it MYSELF next time....are those guys > ABLE/know how to clean THOROUGHLY the system? Get the NADCA ACR2006 standard so you can learn what to look for as you observe them. But you probably won't be able to clean the coils and pan yourself because they are confined, difficult to reach and the fins are easily damaged. Also, have them inspect the ducts for insulation inside the ducts. If there is it should be removed rather than cleaned because it can't be adequately cleaned if it is moldy. It has to be removed from the ducts or the ducts replaced. Let us know if you find someone and how it goes. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You are posting as a guest. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.