Re: Fragrance Concepts

October 6, 2005

Do others here follow some sort of game plan, concept, or specific

purpose?

-Kathy-

Hi Kathy,

As much as I hate to admit it, many of my fragrance concepts started by

accident. Maybe something I was blending started to remind me of a well

known fragrance, and then that became my 'concept'. Other perfumes I've

made definitely were the result of studying a well known perfume although

the end result is usually something new.

Sometimes a blend has its own ideas about what it wants to be, and I will

yield to it. If my expectations are too rigid, then I may not notice that

something good is happening.

Mostly my approach is methodical, trial and error. I wake up in the morning

and wonder 'what does ylang, orris root, vanilla, and clove smell like?'.

So I try a blend giving each of these ingredients an equal voice and if it

catches my nose and imagination, than that may be the beginning of a new

scent. I usually start simple.

Regards

Terry

Dragonfly Aromatics

October 6, 2005

--- Terry Sterling <terrydsterling@...> wrote:

> As much as I hate to admit it, many of my fragrance

> concepts started by accident. Maybe something I was

blending started to remind me of a well known fragrance,

and then that became my 'concept'. Other perfumes I've

made definitely were the result of studying a well known

perfume although the end result is usually something new.

> Sometimes a blend has its own ideas about what it wants

to be, and I will yield to it. If my expectations are too

rigid, then I may not notice that something good is

happening.>

> Mostly my approach is methodical, trial and error. I

wake up in the morning and wonder 'what does ylang, orris

root, vanilla, and clove smell like?'. So I try a blend

giving each of these ingredients an equal voice and if it

catches my nose and imagination, than that may be the

beginning of a new scent. I usually start simple.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I started seriously making fragrances by trying to recreate

commercial ones I liked. The results were spotty, but I

learned a lot in the process, mostly on how to smell the

different notes, and also to recognize certain accords. It

turns out I love the classic rose/jasmine accord that was

used in a lot of classic florientals (I think there's

something else in that accord, I just haven't figured it

out yet). But until I started trying to recreate the notes,

I didn't know that. I also noticed the importance of

creating accords in general. If I could come up with a

somewhat faithful base accord, it seemed easier to build

what I wanted on top of it. I took the fragrance

description, used what basenotes they gave, blended them

and let them sit a few days, then put a sample of the

fragrance on one arm, let it drydown to its basenote, then

applied my eo accord, and compared. Sometimes they were

very similar,and other times fairly divergent, in which

case I knew there were a lot of important notes left out of

their list, and at which point I was on my own.

My base for L'Heure Bleue was pretty close, but I got lost

in the mid/top florals. The violet note is extremely

important in LH, and I didn't have that. I have to say, I

broke down and bought a bottle of violet fragrance to fill

it out, but then I was stuck with a non-natural creation,

so what was the point? But that violet fragrance is

amazingly quiet, intimate, and internal. I wish it was more

available as a natural fragrance. Someone suggested I buy

the violet leaf, as they are similar, which I did, but I

didn't find them similar in fragrance at all, though it too

is a gentle, quiet fragrance, but not floral. It didn't

give LH the required violet note.

Good to hear others have cut their teeth that way.

I don't know if I've ever impulsively added some eo's

together, just wondering how it would smell. Sounds fun.

Kathy C

__________________________________________________

October 6, 2005

At 08:26 PM 10/6/2005, you wrote:

>in the mid/top florals. The violet note is extremely

>important in LH, and I didn't have that. I have to say, I

>broke down and bought a bottle of violet fragrance to fill

>it out, but then I was stuck with a non-natural creation,

>so what was the point?

Hi Kathy:

I'm an organic gardener, used to write for the magazine. One of the basic

tenets of organic farming is that you have to work with mother nature, not

against her. Don't plant stuff that requires a lot of chemical fertilizers

or sprays to grow. You just learn to do without certain things because

they're not right for your soil, climate, or insect population.

I take the same view towards violets. I adore the scent. I got some FO

years ago, not sure where it is now, but when I come across it, I'll open

it, have a nice sniff, and think it's just too bad it isn't available as a

natural aromatic, and go about my perfumery ;-)

Sometimes we just have to let go. Or, like Terry did, with his love of

lilacs, figure out how to duplicate their scent almost perfectly. Others

have done the same with gardenia. I have so many aromatics to work with,

and I haven't taken he time or effort to create an accord to dupe lilac,

gardenia, or violet flower. So, I just let it go and work with what I have.

So be it.

>

Anya

http://.com

The premier site on the Web to discover the beauty of Natural Perfume

" The Age of the Foodie is passé. It is now the Age of the Scentie. "

October 6, 2005

> As much as I hate to admit it, many of my fragrance

>> concepts started by accident.

Amazing how accidents can turn into a perfume creation or by reading

touching sentiments in an e-maile.g., my brother 's signature to me

is " 1000 Kisses " when he signs off on his e-mails. He in turn was inspired

by Mozart's letters to his sister when as a little boy on tour in Europe, he

would write " I kiss you a thousand times. "

And so everytime I read " 1000 Kisses " I felt so lifted by him that one day

1000 kisses told me that it wanted to become a perfume and spoke to me of a

citrus accord, Orange Blossom naturals and Freesia and musks FO's.

For another example, my brother sent me Silver Mica which I wanted

to use in making soap and this material told me it wanted to became an

aroma.

I asked , ³What is the aroma of silver?² ³It is the smell of water,

barely there, subtle like a fresh stream. Then again, like the water in the

air before a storm as the wind brings it down the mountain and before the

lightning strikes.²

And so Silver Water was created with the subtle high metallic notes of Green

Tea, the swirling freshness of special musks and the tender watery coolness

of Violet.

These two fragrances use a combination of synthetics and naturals and have

proved popular with my customers.

Inspiration can be drawn from everywhere.

Best,

Dorothy

Dorothy McCall, Cert. Aroma.

Kingsbury Fragrances

The Royal York

3955 Bigelow Blvd. Ste. 907

Pittsburgh, PA. 15213

(412) 687-2720

www.kingsburyfragrances.com

" Vibrating aromatic threads speak of the Divine through tapestries of scent "

Dorothy McCall Cert. Aroma.

October 7, 2005

Amazing how accidents can turn into a perfume creation or by reading

touching sentiments in an e-maile.g., my brother 's signature to me

is " 1000 Kisses " when he signs off on his e-mails. He in turn was inspired

by Mozart's letters to his sister when as a little boy on tour in Europe, he

would write " I kiss you a thousand times. "

And so everytime I read " 1000 Kisses " I felt so lifted by him that one day

1000 kisses told me that it wanted to become a perfume and spoke to me of a

citrus accord, Orange Blossom naturals and Freesia and musks FO's.

Dorothy

Dorothy, I just love the name '1000 Kisses'! Sounds like a very joyful

composition. Great name for a fragrance.

Terry

_____

October 7, 2005

Dorothy McCall, Cert. Aroma.

Kingsbury Fragrances

The Royal York

3955 Bigelow Blvd. Ste. 907

Pittsburgh, PA. 15213

(412) 687-2720

www.kingsburyfragrances.com

" Vibrating aromatic threads speak of the Divine through tapestries of scent "

Dorothy McCall Cert. Aroma.

> From: " Kathy Chesnut " <flathornlake1@...>

> Reply-

> Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2005 20:51:29 -0000

>

> Subject: Fragrance Concepts

>

> Do others here follow some sort of game plan, concept, or specific

> purpose?

> -Kathy-

Kathy, I love your question. I think that you will find perfumers are driven

to create a perfume for numerous reasons. I can't wait to read all of the

responses to your question. It has certainly gotten me to thinking where I

derive my inspirationn. As I think on this I will be sharing my

experiences.

I am an introvert and a romantic so a number of my fragrances are driven by

my temperament type as in " 1000 kisses " and " Silver Water "

Other fragrances such as " Tres Jolie " was driven by a friend of mine who had

a couture resale shop and wished a store candle to evoke a couture clothing

store. Ambiance III was created and when I walked into her shop I was

amazed at how beautiful the candle was burning and the equisite aroma

filling the air. I truly did not know how it would burn in her boutique. I

immedidately knew it could become a perfume. It took me 1 year to make the

necessary adjustments to become a perfume and Florence came up with the name

Tres Jolie as we were sniffing the tester strip.

Other fragrances such as Citrus Sorbet, Lavender Notes and Fern are created

for their naturalness and to alter mood.

Thank you again for this question!

Dorothy

October 7, 2005

orothy McCall Cert. Aroma.

> From: " Terry Sterling " <terrydsterling@...>

> Reply-

> Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 05:27:29 -0400

> < >

> Subject: RE: Fragrance Concepts

>

> Dorothy, I just love the name '1000 Kisses'! Sounds like a very joyful

> composition. Great name for a fragrance.

>

Thank you Terry,

I was taught that the name of a perfume is very important. The name, the

visual packaging helps to draw a person into experiencing the fragrance.

Sometimes I just have " working " names until the name that fits arrives.

Dorothy

Dorothy McCall, Cert. Aroma.

Kingsbury Fragrances

The Royal York

3955 Bigelow Blvd. Ste. 907

Pittsburgh, PA. 15213

(412) 687-2720

www.kingsburyfragrances.com

" Vibrating aromatic threads speak of the Divine through tapestries of scent "

D

October 7, 2005

--- Kingsbury Fragrances <kingsburypa@...>

wrote:

> Sometimes I just have " working " names until the name

> that fits arrives.

>

> Dorothy

I was wondering if we could consider fragrance oils

less poisoness then the laboratory chemicals used in

commercial perfumes. One of my interest in Natural

perfumery is to escape the untested effects of lab

created synthetics

then would this not be a selling pointl.

Any data in this respect?

B

______________________________________________________

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October 7, 2005

At 09:57 AM 10/7/2005, you wrote:

>I was wondering if we could consider fragrance oils

>less poisoness then the laboratory chemicals used in

>commercial perfumes. One of my interest in Natural

>perfumery is to escape the untested effects of lab

>created synthetics then would this not be a selling pointl.

>Any data in this respect?

>B

Hi B

You bring up an important point in semantics:

Essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins, tinctures, infusions we NPers

use -- natural.

Frangrance oils, perfume oils, synthetic laboratory chemicals that

commercial perfumers use -- synthetic.

IMO, FOs are the same as what the perfume houses use in creating their

commercial perfumes. They may give an artificial musk a patent name like

galaxolyde, which is used by L'Artisan, and then some chemist may create a

cheap knockoff for the secondary FO market that's sold to perfumers and

other crafters like soapers and body care manufacturers and it's sold as

" White Musk " , but it's still a synthetic chemical. We natural perfumers

would use ambrette seed for the musk note, entirely natural. This holds

true for fragrances across the board -- we use jasmine, they use hedione.

I don't know if anyone has the time to find the " data " for you, but I have

reported the facts. HTH clear up any misunderstanding -- has it, or do you

have further questions on this subject?

Anya

http://.com

The premier site on the Web to discover the beauty of Natural Perfume

" The Age of the Foodie is passé. It is now the Age of the Scentie. "

October 7, 2005

This is a great topic for discussion, Kathy!

And it is the most interesting part of perfumery, in my opinion.

I use many different methods and approaches in my art as a perfumer.

My perfumes are inspired by people (the I love and meet, but also

fictionary character from films and books), emotions, memories, music,

books (i.e.: Boris Vian's l'Herb Rouge & Ecume de Jour - two of my

favourite boosk which I have transformed into the medium of perfume),

films, nature, and last but not least - the plants and notes I work

with (both their sensual and visual aspect as well as the olfactory).

I usually transfer my ideas and thoughts once the final product is

complete in the form of a perfume description - which includes the

concept and inspiration and the notes (you can go to my website and

read some of those, though most of my new fragrances are not there

yet...).

For instance:

Tamya perfume is named after my daughter, and is inspired by the

sweetness of a newborn baby and the excitement of motherhood, as well

as the time of year when she was born, and the late afternoon when I

brought her back from the hospital: it was October and I lived in my

homevillage in Israel; The first rain had come the night that Tamya

was born, so the earth was covered by newly sprouted green grass upon

the dry grass from the summer. The first Autumn crocuses have just

opened their pale pink-purple buds, as well as the first wild

bleubells (known in my country as " rainbells " because they only show

up after the first rain).

When Tamya was born, I ate a lot of special fruit - the first

tangerines of the season (they have a special smell that is hard to

describe), guavas (which are the symbol of the season with their

irresistible aroma in my country) and anonas (custard fruit).

In Tamya perfume I tried to convey all those emotions, as well as the

scents of the special season's scents and tastes and fruit.

I also was just experimenting for the first time with Yuzu - which

ended up being a perfect vehicle for portraying the fruit aromas of

that time in my life.

Tamya perfume has top notes of yuzu, cassis and coriander, heart notes

of jasmine sambac, rose otto, frangipanni and haycinth (for the

bluebells...), and a base that is as soft as a baby's skin - with

cedarwood, ambrette seed (a musky and soft, oily and almost

skin-smelling aroma), and a touch of vanilla.

It is not quite an Autumn perfume, but rather a light floral that can

be worn enjoyably even in the hottest days of the year, but has enough

warmth in it to make it lovely in colder days...

So you see, the interpretation is not literal, but rather intuitive,

and the process is creative and enchanting - sensual, meditative,

throughtful, and scientific.

Ayala Sender

Perfume Designer

Quinta Essentia Signature Perfumes Inc.

http://www.Quinta-Essentia.ca E-mail: Ayala@...

Signature Perfumes ~ Perfumed Jewelery ~ Fragrance Consultant On-Line

October 7, 2005

> My base for L'Heure Bleue was pretty close, but I got lost

> in the mid/top florals. The violet note is extremely

> important in LH, and I didn't have that. I have to say, I

> broke down and bought a bottle of violet fragrance to fill

> it out, but then I was stuck with a non-natural creation,

> so what was the point? But that violet fragrance is

> amazingly quiet, intimate, and internal. I wish it was more

> available as a natural fragrance. Someone suggested I buy

> the violet leaf, as they are similar, which I did, but I

> didn't find them similar in fragrance at all, though it too

> is a gentle, quiet fragrance, but not floral. It didn't

> give LH the required violet note.

> Good to hear others have cut their teeth that way.

> I don't know if I've ever impulsively added some eo's

> together, just wondering how it would smell. Sounds fun.

> Kathy C

Kathy,

You are right about two things here:

1)The violet note is extremely important in l'Heure Bleu

2) Violet leaf absoltue smells nothing like violet flowers

Violet flowers are so expensive and non-cost-effective to produce, and

are usually replaced by orris root and/or a compound made of a mixture

of synthetics and naturals.

I find violet clower note is possible to creat with all natural

ingredient as an accord of its own.

My perfume " Viola " is a violet soliflore and is very much like a

violet flower in my opinion.

You can try to play with some or all of the following ingredients to

create various shades of violet flower:

Violet leaf

Orris root

Boronia

Costus

Lavender

Opoponax

Vanilla

Tonka bean

Rose

Ylang ylang

Sandalwood

I think the ingredients above can all contribute to some aspec or the

other of violet flower - and if you get the right proportions, the

result will be alluring, soft, delicate, floral and violet like.

Be careful of Violet leaf absolute and Boronia absolute - they need to

be used in very small quantities, though they are extremely important

for the violet accord. Start with one drop of either of them and don't

add more until you are sure you add more.

The same can be said for costus (use it if you want a darker violet

shade).

Ayala Sender

Perfume Designer

Quinta Essentia Signature Perfumes Inc.

http://www.Quinta-Essentia.ca E-mail: Ayala@...

Signature Perfumes ~ Perfumed Jewelery ~ Fragrance Consultant On-Line

October 7, 2005

Ayala, thank you for your suggestions to use towards blending a violet

flower accord.

The scents I've smelled that are supposed to be in the violet flower

family have appealed to me, and I'm interested in seeing what I can do

along that line. I'm going to try my hand at blending it this

weekend, I think.

May your day be filled with sunshine!

Jody in NS

October 7, 2005

Ayala, thank you for your suggestions to use towards blending a violet

flower accord.

The scents I've smelled that are supposed to be in the violet flower

family have appealed to me, and I'm interested in seeing what I can do

along that line. I'm going to try my hand at blending it this

weekend, I think.

May your day be filled with sunshine!

Jody in NS

October 7, 2005

At 11:44 AM 10/7/2005, you wrote:

>My perfume " Viola " is a violet soliflore and is very much like a

>violet flower in my opinion.

>

>You can try to play with some or all of the following ingredients to

>create various shades of violet flower:

>

>Violet leaf

>Orris root

>Boronia

>Costus

>Lavender

>Opoponax

>Vanilla

>Tonka bean

>Rose

>Ylang ylang

>Sandalwood

Ayala Sender

Perfume Designer

Quinta Essentia Signature Perfumes Inc.

http://www.Quinta-Essentia.ca E-mail: Ayala@...

Signature Perfumes ~ Perfumed Jewelery ~ Fragrance Consultant On-Line

To everyone on the list -- I don't know if you realize how generous Ayala

is being with this basic formula. It is very difficult and requires a very

talented perfumer to figure out the basics of duplicating a scent. Then, to

*share* it with 600 strangers is an act of true unselfishness. I have

sampled her Viola - it is gorgeous. Since there is no violet absolute to be

had, this is wonderful to know.

Terry of dragonflyaromatics is the same way -- his lilac accord is

legendary, and here for everyone. Wonderful people, those two are doing

much to forward the art of natural perfumery by sharing their hard-won

secrets.

If I may ask, Ayala -- did you look at the chemistry of violet flowers, and

they look for other raw aromatics that had components of those, or did you

research old formulas, or did you just go by instinct and trial and error?

It is quite amazing, and it smells so genuine and delicious.

Anya

http://.com

The premier site on the Web to discover the beauty of Natural Perfume

" The Age of the Foodie is passé. It is now the Age of the Scentie. "

October 7, 2005

--- Anya <mccoy@...> wrote:

> At 09:57 AM 10/7/2005, you wrote:

> >I was wondering if we could consider fragrance oils

> >less poisoness then the laboratory chemicals used

> in

> >commercial perfumes. One of my interest in

> Natural perfumery is to escape the untested effects

of lab

> >created synthetics then would this not be a selling

> point.

> >Any data in this respect?

> >B

>

> Hi B

>

> You bring up an important point in semantics:

>

> Essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins,

> tinctures, infusions we NPers

> use -- natural.

>

> Frangrance oils, perfume oils, synthetic laboratory

> chemicals that

> commercial perfumers use -- synthetic.

>

> IMO, FOs are the same as what the perfume houses use

> in creating their

> commercial perfumes. They may give an artificial

> musk a patent name like

> galaxolyde, which is used by L'Artisan, and then

> some chemist may create a

> cheap knockoff for the secondary FO market that's

> sold to perfumers and

> other crafters like soapers and body care

> manufacturers and it's sold as

> " White Musk " , but it's still a synthetic chemical.

> We natural perfumers

> would use ambrette seed for the musk note, entirely

> natural. This holds

> true for fragrances across the board -- we use

> jasmine, they use hedione.

>

> I don't know if anyone has the time to find the

> " data " for you, but I have

> reported the facts. HTH clear up any

> misunderstanding -- has it, or do you

> have further questions on this subject?

>

> OK this was my personal experience:

I went to a local " EO " scent " soap maker, Juniper Tree

at Berkeley, Ca., they actually are trying to sell

fragrance as Essential Oils however they claim that it

is fragrance grade, hence confusion.

I had already experimented with EO and found the

insect repellants to actually kill the aphids on my

rose plant.

" EO " , theraputic grade.\\

I put on their rose geranium " EO " (Juniper Tree) and a

fly flew into my face. I went home and put on my

spray and the mosquitos stayed away so I started to

doubt the efficacy of Fragrance oils..

My experience was just with EO's theruputic grade

killing pain (my sciatica) and helping to heal me with

Herniated disc and my friend that has cancer using

same did not have to use morphine. So I thought

there is some difference but so little research.

Then Watt bad press of D. Young. So

discouraging

I used to wear TRESOR but became afraid that it might

be harmful. Before that Bois D'es Isle, Beautiful and

White Linen, then Eternity did not smell the same on

me as my Korean friend. Oh dear, distrust is so

awful.

I am in the awful place of distrust of anything from

an untested lab table.

B

__________________________________

Music Unlimited

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http://music./unlimited/

October 7, 2005

--- Anya <mccoy@...> wrote:

> At 09:57 AM 10/7/2005, you wrote:

> >I was wondering if we could consider fragrance oils

> >less poisoness then the laboratory chemicals used

> in

> >commercial perfumes. One of my interest in

> Natural perfumery is to escape the untested effects

of lab

> >created synthetics then would this not be a selling

> point.

> >Any data in this respect?

> >B

>

> Hi B

>

> You bring up an important point in semantics:

>

> Essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins,

> tinctures, infusions we NPers

> use -- natural.

>

> Frangrance oils, perfume oils, synthetic laboratory

> chemicals that

> commercial perfumers use -- synthetic.

>

> IMO, FOs are the same as what the perfume houses use

> in creating their

> commercial perfumes. They may give an artificial

> musk a patent name like

> galaxolyde, which is used by L'Artisan, and then

> some chemist may create a

> cheap knockoff for the secondary FO market that's

> sold to perfumers and

> other crafters like soapers and body care

> manufacturers and it's sold as

> " White Musk " , but it's still a synthetic chemical.

> We natural perfumers

> would use ambrette seed for the musk note, entirely

> natural. This holds

> true for fragrances across the board -- we use

> jasmine, they use hedione.

>

> I don't know if anyone has the time to find the

> " data " for you, but I have

> reported the facts. HTH clear up any

> misunderstanding -- has it, or do you

> have further questions on this subject?

>

> OK this was my personal experience:

I went to a local " EO " scent " soap maker, Juniper Tree

at Berkeley, Ca., they actually are trying to sell

fragrance as Essential Oils however they claim that it

is fragrance grade, hence confusion.

I had already experimented with EO and found the

insect repellants to actually kill the aphids on my

rose plant.

" EO " , theraputic grade.\\

I put on their rose geranium " EO " (Juniper Tree) and a

fly flew into my face. I went home and put on my

spray and the mosquitos stayed away so I started to

doubt the efficacy of Fragrance oils..

My experience was just with EO's theruputic grade

killing pain (my sciatica) and helping to heal me with

Herniated disc and my friend that has cancer using

same did not have to use morphine. So I thought

there is some difference but so little research.

Then Watt bad press of D. Young. So

discouraging

I used to wear TRESOR but became afraid that it might

be harmful. Before that Bois D'es Isle, Beautiful and

White Linen, then Eternity did not smell the same on

me as my Korean friend. Oh dear, distrust is so

awful.

I am in the awful place of distrust of anything from

an untested lab table.

B

__________________________________

Music Unlimited

Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.

http://music./unlimited/

October 8, 2005

>

> My experience was just with EO's theruputic grade

> killing pain (my sciatica) and helping to heal me with

> Herniated disc and my friend that has cancer using

> same did not have to use morphine. So I thought

> there is some difference but so little research.

> Then Watt bad press of D. Young. So

> discouraging

>

>>

>

UH, Hullo?!

What are you talking about? I've had severe neck pain for 5 years and

am on morphine, and it still hurts all the time. What did you say took

away your pain? I'm very interested.

- F.

October 8, 2005

>

> My experience was just with EO's theruputic grade

> killing pain (my sciatica) and helping to heal me with

> Herniated disc and my friend that has cancer using

> same did not have to use morphine. So I thought

> there is some difference but so little research.

> Then Watt bad press of D. Young. So

> discouraging

>

>>

>

UH, Hullo?!

What are you talking about? I've had severe neck pain for 5 years and

am on morphine, and it still hurts all the time. What did you say took

away your pain? I'm very interested.

- F.

October 8, 2005

--- mizperfumelady <mizperfumelady@...> wrote:

>

> >

> > My experience was just with EO's theruputic grade

> > killing pain (my sciatica) and helping to heal me

> with

> > Herniated disc and my friend that has cancer using

> > same did not have to use morphine. So I thought

> > there is some difference but so little research.

> > Then Watt bad press of D. Young. So

> > discouraging

> >

> >>

> >

> UH, Hullo?!

> What are you talking about? I've had severe neck

> pain for 5 years and

> am on morphine, and it still hurts all the time.

> What did you say took

> away your pain? I'm very interested.

> - F.

First let me say that it takes off the painful edge

there will be some residual but tolerable pain. It is

a helper a friend.

Can't find the bottle right nowI call it " Go Pain " but

it had lots of Sweet Orange oil in it and Heliochrysum

to start. I tested it on friends with Sciatica and

they got relief right away.

Then I switch to Blue Chamomile and Yellow

Birch(Betula alleghaneis) in Sesame oil . Reading

says you have to switch every 2 weeks so you do not

become immune to the effects.

I want to market this and then have cancer wards

research this for cost to start our country using EO

as complimentary medicine. Big dreamer I am.

Can't sell now because no money to get a business

liscense, bottles, labels all that research.

If you send me your address offline i could mail it to

you for product cost I guess.

Also my perfume that I made for myself gets rid of

headaches, hangovers (3rd glass of wine mistake) and

neckaches. I just put in drops and then use 100

proof Vodka to the top. Then someone says that is

illegal in some states so I am at a stand still.

Advice from you pros welcomed.

Of course I have fear of snakeoilsalesman labeling.

So big problem I see is what to say about your product

without claiming to be medicine. And 2nd is this

even a valid discussion for your group?

B

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October 8, 2005

--- Anya <mccoy@...> wrote:

> At 09:57 AM 10/7/2005, you wrote:

> >I was wondering if we could consider fragrance oils

> >less poisoness then the laboratory chemicals used

> in

> >commercial perfumes. One of my interest in

> Natural

> >perfumery is to escape the untested effects of lab

> >created synthetics then would this not be a selling

> pointl.

> >Any data in this respect?

> >B

>

> Hi B

>

> You bring up an important point in semantics:

>

> Essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins,

> tinctures, infusions we NPers

> use -- natural.

>

> Frangrance oils, perfume oils, synthetic laboratory

> chemicals that

> commercial perfumers use -- synthetic.

>

> IMO, FOs are the same as what the perfume houses use

> in creating their

> commercial perfumes. They may give an artificial

> musk a patent name like

> galaxolyde, which is used by L'Artisan, and then

> some chemist may create a

> cheap knockoff for the secondary FO market that's

> sold to perfumers and

> other crafters like soapers and body care

> manufacturers and it's sold as

> " White Musk " , but it's still a synthetic chemical.

> We natural perfumers

> would use ambrette seed for the musk note, entirely

> natural. This holds

> true for fragrances across the board -- we use

> jasmine, they use hedione.

>

> I don't know if anyone has the time to find the

> " data " for you, but I have

> reported the facts. HTH clear up any

> misunderstanding -- has it, or do you

> have further questions on this subject?

Thanks for your educated analysis of this issue.

Buyer Beware and become informed so to speak.

Good confirmation of suspiscious caution.

Now for a refreshing splash of my own personal

perfume.

eO-la

B

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October 9, 2005

> To everyone on the list -- I don't know if you realize how generous

Ayala

> is being with this basic formula. It is very difficult and requires

a very

> talented perfumer to figure out the basics of duplicating a scent.

Then, to

> *share* it with 600 strangers is an act of true unselfishness. I have

> sampled her Viola - it is gorgeous. Since there is no violet

absolute to be

> had, this is wonderful to know.

Thank you so much Anya for all the compliments - Haven't quite gave

out my formula here though - but I think this is a great direction to

achieve you own violet fragrance, and think it is best to discover

the exact proportions on your own. My Viola perfume, by the way, does

not have all of those ingredients in it though...

> Terry of dragonflyaromatics is the same way -- his lilac accord is

> legendary,

Terry's " Mystic Lilac " is BEAUTIFUL. A true achievement and I think

you should all try to wear it at certain point or the other.

It is very inspiring to meet people like you who are so creative and

meticulus in your search for aromatic perfection!

> If I may ask, Ayala -- did you look at the chemistry of violet

flowers, and

> they look for other raw aromatics that had components of those, or

did you

> research old formulas, or did you just go by instinct and trial and

error?

> It is quite amazing, and it smells so genuine and delicious.

> Anya

> http://.com

Thanks again for all warm compliments for Viola - it is really

heartwarming to hear good things about one's perfumes, and I think

that in the competitive world of perfumery, we natural artisan

perfumers are unique in that we are very encouraging of one another

and share our knowledge and help one another. We have a common goal of

making natural perfumery more accessible and understood by people, so

e work together towards this goal.

As for your question - my answer is a bit complicated:

I did not use any old formulas, but it all started with Jicky - I

tried to make a formula based on the notes that Guerlain market Jicky

with, and it was a bit violety - with lavender, orris, sandalwood and

opoponax.

I than moved forward and created a perfume that I labelled for my own

use " n " , and used in it a violet flower essence that I got

from an antique shop that also sells antique oils. It was a beautiful,

velvety violet flower scent, not harsh at all, and very true to the

real flower (I am not quite sure to this day if what they have is

syntyetic or not, it smells great and very gentle nevertheless).

However, their stock is limited (they don't source the oils anymore),

and I did not want to rely on them - also because I wasn't sure it is

natural...

I than decided to try to manipulate the formula so that I don't need

to use any of this unreliable violet. I came across a sample of

l'Artisan's beautiful " Verte Violette " , which is a green and warm

violet leaf all at once - very unusual and inspiring, and a proof that

violet leaf can be used in a way that is not cool and aloof... (I had

difficulties getting over that cucumber smell and making it floral and

a tad more passionate).

I than simplified the original formula that I had and voila! Viola was

finally born.

Ayala Sender

Perfume Designer

Quinta Essentia Signature Perfumes Inc.

http://www.Quinta-Essentia.ca E-mail: Ayala@...

Signature Perfumes ~ Perfumed Jewelery ~ Fragrance Consultant On-Line

October 9, 2005