RECIPES: Hints for Using Fresh herbs (HINTS, TIPS, GARDEN)

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Fresh herbs are what changes basic foods into favored dishes. They are

the secondary seasonings that develop and extend the natural flavors of

our raw materials. Fresh herbs compliment and enrich taste without

adding any calories or fat. There are some basic ideas that apply to

virtually all herbs. Let's take a look at them and then we can explore

the individual herbs to see how best to enhance your cooking.

* Fresh herbs have both more and less flavor than dried ones. Dried

herbs have had some of their flavor elements concentrated and so they

can seem stronger. But drying them causes some other tastes to be lost

and so the flavors are diminished. The general ratio to substitute fresh

herbs for dried is 3 to 1. That is, use 3 times as much fresh herbs as

dried herbs that recipes might call for.

* Fresh herbs have subtle and delicate flavors. Prolonged cooking causes

them to lose their fragrance and their flavor. Add the fresh herbs near

the end of the cooking time. The flavors develop very quickly. They

shouldn't cook in liquids for more than about an hour, generally, to get

the most from them. Add to stocks, soups, stews near the end and see how

much richer the flavors will be at the table.

* Roasts should be rubbed with herbs before cooking. One restaurant

technique is to chop the fresh herbs you want to use with a bit of salt

and pepper. They each flavor the other. Then, rub the seasonings on the

roast and finish as usual. This approach can be used for poultry and

seafoods as well.

* For ground meats, finely mince the fresh herbs and mix into the meat

before cooking. Add whatever other additions you like - eggs, crumbs,

prepared sauces, salt, pepper, etc. - and shape them as appropriate for

the dish.

* Fresh herbs may be added to both batters and crumb mixtures used for

fried foods. Chop finely and add as desired.

* Fresh herbs enhance cooking waters for vegetables. Either chop and

drop them into the water so they'll be part of the finished dish or tie

them in a little cheesecloth bag and remove them before serving.

* Fresh herbs can add wonderful character and pleasantly surprising

complexity to breads. A general rule of thumb is to add somewhere

between 1 to 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs per one-pound loaf.

Herbal cornbread is wonderful. Likewise biscuits, dumplings, savory

pancakes and waffles - add up to a tablespoon to 2 cups of flour.

* Fresh herbs are perishable and proper storage can prolong their lives

rather nicely. Store bunches under refrigeration with their stems in

water. Loose leaves are best kept in the coldest part of a refrigerator

in perforated bags. Some moisture is good for fresh herbs. Too much

moisture promotes decay. Shake them as dry as possible before storing.

It's a good idea to crumple a paper towel and put it into the bag under

the herbs. It absorbs excess moisture and lengthens the useful life of

the herbs.

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