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Re: Additives & lye questions

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Now, I'm confussed. So to achieve a hard bar we use coconut, palm, palm

kernel, and steric? What is steric? Where do you find it and how do you

use it? Sorry for all these questions.

> However, when I make soap, I use coconut, palm oil and palm kernel oil (as

> well as olive as the main oil). I use only about 4-5 oz of the pk oil.

> That with the steric produces a very wonderfully hard bar.

> ~

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,

When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap. We will

not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant. A

humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they grate

the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

Our soap is 1/4 glycerin by process. We are looking for a firm bar that

will last a while. No matte how hard you get it, just leave it 5 minutes in

the water and it will be soft. The soap will " suck " up the water so to

speak.

You can make a good bar of soap many ways. Olive oil gets hard, it takes a

while though. Palm oil, Palm Kernal oil, and coconut oil all work to help

make a hard bar of soap. You do not have to use all of them together, and

steric acid is " optional " . If you start with about 40-50% oilve you have a

good base, then add coconut for lather and palm or palm kernal for hardness

( I perfer palm kernal, but that is just me). Palm kernal also contributes

to lather. Coconut is moisturizing in balance, get to much and it is

drying. Palm kernal is similar to coconut in make up. Palm oil does

nothing but add hardness.

Then you might want to add something for " other things " canola has a lot of

olive oils properties, sunflower is a nice filler oil, vegetable shortening

is nice in soap and makes a " creamy " lather. Steric acid comes from palm or

palm kernal oil, it is the " hard " part of the oil If the steric does not

say palm steric, you do not know what its origin is, and it could be animal.

Tallow makes a hard bar of soap also. It is something to play around with

until you get your soap how you like it.

Also keep in mind, fragrances will affect your soap. If you make 4 lbs of

soap and split it in half at trace, add bramble berries sleeping angels to

one half and freesia from oh can't remember where it came from, the sleeping

angels soap will be hard 2 days out of the mold (with my recipe ok), the

freesia soap will be soft for 2-3 weeks and then overnight it will be hard.

The fo does that, it is the only " variable " in the recipe. Some fo's have

soybean oil in them soybean is a " soft oil " , so that might be why this

happens with some.

Hope that helps some

Sherry in Aberdeen

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Now, I'm confussed. So to achieve a hard bar we use coconut, palm, palm

>kernel, and steric? What is steric? Where do you find it and how do you

>use it? Sorry for all these questions.

>

>> However, when I make soap, I use coconut, palm oil and palm kernel oil

(as

>> well as olive as the main oil). I use only about 4-5 oz of the pk oil.

>> That with the steric produces a very wonderfully hard bar.

>> ~

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Get paid for the stuff you know!

>Get answers for the stuff you don’t. And get $10 to spend on the site!

>http://click./1/2200/0/_/533249/_/956767824/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

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Share on other sites

Guest guest

,

When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap. We will

not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant. A

humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they grate

the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

Our soap is 1/4 glycerin by process. We are looking for a firm bar that

will last a while. No matte how hard you get it, just leave it 5 minutes in

the water and it will be soft. The soap will " suck " up the water so to

speak.

You can make a good bar of soap many ways. Olive oil gets hard, it takes a

while though. Palm oil, Palm Kernal oil, and coconut oil all work to help

make a hard bar of soap. You do not have to use all of them together, and

steric acid is " optional " . If you start with about 40-50% oilve you have a

good base, then add coconut for lather and palm or palm kernal for hardness

( I perfer palm kernal, but that is just me). Palm kernal also contributes

to lather. Coconut is moisturizing in balance, get to much and it is

drying. Palm kernal is similar to coconut in make up. Palm oil does

nothing but add hardness.

Then you might want to add something for " other things " canola has a lot of

olive oils properties, sunflower is a nice filler oil, vegetable shortening

is nice in soap and makes a " creamy " lather. Steric acid comes from palm or

palm kernal oil, it is the " hard " part of the oil If the steric does not

say palm steric, you do not know what its origin is, and it could be animal.

Tallow makes a hard bar of soap also. It is something to play around with

until you get your soap how you like it.

Also keep in mind, fragrances will affect your soap. If you make 4 lbs of

soap and split it in half at trace, add bramble berries sleeping angels to

one half and freesia from oh can't remember where it came from, the sleeping

angels soap will be hard 2 days out of the mold (with my recipe ok), the

freesia soap will be soft for 2-3 weeks and then overnight it will be hard.

The fo does that, it is the only " variable " in the recipe. Some fo's have

soybean oil in them soybean is a " soft oil " , so that might be why this

happens with some.

Hope that helps some

Sherry in Aberdeen

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Now, I'm confussed. So to achieve a hard bar we use coconut, palm, palm

>kernel, and steric? What is steric? Where do you find it and how do you

>use it? Sorry for all these questions.

>

>> However, when I make soap, I use coconut, palm oil and palm kernel oil

(as

>> well as olive as the main oil). I use only about 4-5 oz of the pk oil.

>> That with the steric produces a very wonderfully hard bar.

>> ~

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Get paid for the stuff you know!

>Get answers for the stuff you don’t. And get $10 to spend on the site!

>http://click./1/2200/0/_/533249/_/956767824/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

,

When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap. We will

not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant. A

humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they grate

the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

Our soap is 1/4 glycerin by process. We are looking for a firm bar that

will last a while. No matte how hard you get it, just leave it 5 minutes in

the water and it will be soft. The soap will " suck " up the water so to

speak.

You can make a good bar of soap many ways. Olive oil gets hard, it takes a

while though. Palm oil, Palm Kernal oil, and coconut oil all work to help

make a hard bar of soap. You do not have to use all of them together, and

steric acid is " optional " . If you start with about 40-50% oilve you have a

good base, then add coconut for lather and palm or palm kernal for hardness

( I perfer palm kernal, but that is just me). Palm kernal also contributes

to lather. Coconut is moisturizing in balance, get to much and it is

drying. Palm kernal is similar to coconut in make up. Palm oil does

nothing but add hardness.

Then you might want to add something for " other things " canola has a lot of

olive oils properties, sunflower is a nice filler oil, vegetable shortening

is nice in soap and makes a " creamy " lather. Steric acid comes from palm or

palm kernal oil, it is the " hard " part of the oil If the steric does not

say palm steric, you do not know what its origin is, and it could be animal.

Tallow makes a hard bar of soap also. It is something to play around with

until you get your soap how you like it.

Also keep in mind, fragrances will affect your soap. If you make 4 lbs of

soap and split it in half at trace, add bramble berries sleeping angels to

one half and freesia from oh can't remember where it came from, the sleeping

angels soap will be hard 2 days out of the mold (with my recipe ok), the

freesia soap will be soft for 2-3 weeks and then overnight it will be hard.

The fo does that, it is the only " variable " in the recipe. Some fo's have

soybean oil in them soybean is a " soft oil " , so that might be why this

happens with some.

Hope that helps some

Sherry in Aberdeen

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Now, I'm confussed. So to achieve a hard bar we use coconut, palm, palm

>kernel, and steric? What is steric? Where do you find it and how do you

>use it? Sorry for all these questions.

>

>> However, when I make soap, I use coconut, palm oil and palm kernel oil

(as

>> well as olive as the main oil). I use only about 4-5 oz of the pk oil.

>> That with the steric produces a very wonderfully hard bar.

>> ~

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Get paid for the stuff you know!

>Get answers for the stuff you don’t. And get $10 to spend on the site!

>http://click./1/2200/0/_/533249/_/956767824/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

,

That was toooooo much shortneing in relationship to the other oils. Lot of

beeswax, hmmm well maybe not. I hate messing with beeswax in soap, always

causes accelerated trace on me.

Come to the gathering and you will get lots of new ideas.

Sherryin aberdeen

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Sherry,

>I think you have been answering all of my questions of late, you must

>be my soap angel. Thank you for the info. I have been making soap

>for about five months and have experiemented alot with different

>oils. I mostly use olive oil as a base with coconut oil, palm oil,

>then I usually use others like shea butter, almound oil, castor oil

>for conditioning qualities in less than 10% quanities. I just wanted

>to know if I was doing something wrong. I do use veg. short. in some

>recipes as a main base then try to use oils that help add

>hardness/firmness to the bar. Like the honey soap I made this

>weekend, I used 5.6% almond oil, 5.6% castor oil, 5% shea butter,

>8.75% beeswax, 15% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 40% veg. shortening,

>7% lye caculation, 10.6oz water, and 3oz of honey. I unmolded it

>after 48 hrs. I started to cut it and it was pretty soft still, so

>only cut half of it. It smells so good, I just hope it hardens up

>more. I thought the cocounut oil and beeswax would add firmness to

>the bar. I also realize the bigger the lye % is the softer the bar

>but I'd rather have moisturizing bar than a very firm bar. Is there

>a way to have both? Not asking for much am I! LOL

> in Bremerton

>

>

>

>> ,

>> When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap.

>We will

>> not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant.

>A

>> humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they

>grate

>> the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

>> Hope that helps some

>> Sherry in Aberdeen

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Now the best and coolest websites come right to you based on your

>unique interests. eTour.com is surfing without searching.

>And, it's FREE!

>http://click./1/3013/0/_/533249/_/956799892/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

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Share on other sites

Guest guest

,

That was toooooo much shortneing in relationship to the other oils. Lot of

beeswax, hmmm well maybe not. I hate messing with beeswax in soap, always

causes accelerated trace on me.

Come to the gathering and you will get lots of new ideas.

Sherryin aberdeen

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Sherry,

>I think you have been answering all of my questions of late, you must

>be my soap angel. Thank you for the info. I have been making soap

>for about five months and have experiemented alot with different

>oils. I mostly use olive oil as a base with coconut oil, palm oil,

>then I usually use others like shea butter, almound oil, castor oil

>for conditioning qualities in less than 10% quanities. I just wanted

>to know if I was doing something wrong. I do use veg. short. in some

>recipes as a main base then try to use oils that help add

>hardness/firmness to the bar. Like the honey soap I made this

>weekend, I used 5.6% almond oil, 5.6% castor oil, 5% shea butter,

>8.75% beeswax, 15% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 40% veg. shortening,

>7% lye caculation, 10.6oz water, and 3oz of honey. I unmolded it

>after 48 hrs. I started to cut it and it was pretty soft still, so

>only cut half of it. It smells so good, I just hope it hardens up

>more. I thought the cocounut oil and beeswax would add firmness to

>the bar. I also realize the bigger the lye % is the softer the bar

>but I'd rather have moisturizing bar than a very firm bar. Is there

>a way to have both? Not asking for much am I! LOL

> in Bremerton

>

>

>

>> ,

>> When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap.

>We will

>> not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant.

>A

>> humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they

>grate

>> the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

>> Hope that helps some

>> Sherry in Aberdeen

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Now the best and coolest websites come right to you based on your

>unique interests. eTour.com is surfing without searching.

>And, it's FREE!

>http://click./1/3013/0/_/533249/_/956799892/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

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Share on other sites

Guest guest

OH, ,

You made my day,calling me an angel. That is a first, LOL

Sherry inAberdeen I " m an angel you guys, did you all read that. See ,

nicole doesn't care what you say about your " bottle brat " LOL

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Sherry,

>I think you have been answering all of my questions of late, you must

>be my soap angel. Thank you for the info. I have been making soap

>for about five months and have experiemented alot with different

>oils. I mostly use olive oil as a base with coconut oil, palm oil,

>then I usually use others like shea butter, almound oil, castor oil

>for conditioning qualities in less than 10% quanities. I just wanted

>to know if I was doing something wrong. I do use veg. short. in some

>recipes as a main base then try to use oils that help add

>hardness/firmness to the bar. Like the honey soap I made this

>weekend, I used 5.6% almond oil, 5.6% castor oil, 5% shea butter,

>8.75% beeswax, 15% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 40% veg. shortening,

>7% lye caculation, 10.6oz water, and 3oz of honey. I unmolded it

>after 48 hrs. I started to cut it and it was pretty soft still, so

>only cut half of it. It smells so good, I just hope it hardens up

>more. I thought the cocounut oil and beeswax would add firmness to

>the bar. I also realize the bigger the lye % is the softer the bar

>but I'd rather have moisturizing bar than a very firm bar. Is there

>a way to have both? Not asking for much am I! LOL

> in Bremerton

>

>

>

>> ,

>> When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap.

>We will

>> not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant.

>A

>> humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they

>grate

>> the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

>> Hope that helps some

>> Sherry in Aberdeen

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Now the best and coolest websites come right to you based on your

>unique interests. eTour.com is surfing without searching.

>And, it's FREE!

>http://click./1/3013/0/_/533249/_/956799892/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

OH, ,

You made my day,calling me an angel. That is a first, LOL

Sherry inAberdeen I " m an angel you guys, did you all read that. See ,

nicole doesn't care what you say about your " bottle brat " LOL

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Sherry,

>I think you have been answering all of my questions of late, you must

>be my soap angel. Thank you for the info. I have been making soap

>for about five months and have experiemented alot with different

>oils. I mostly use olive oil as a base with coconut oil, palm oil,

>then I usually use others like shea butter, almound oil, castor oil

>for conditioning qualities in less than 10% quanities. I just wanted

>to know if I was doing something wrong. I do use veg. short. in some

>recipes as a main base then try to use oils that help add

>hardness/firmness to the bar. Like the honey soap I made this

>weekend, I used 5.6% almond oil, 5.6% castor oil, 5% shea butter,

>8.75% beeswax, 15% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 40% veg. shortening,

>7% lye caculation, 10.6oz water, and 3oz of honey. I unmolded it

>after 48 hrs. I started to cut it and it was pretty soft still, so

>only cut half of it. It smells so good, I just hope it hardens up

>more. I thought the cocounut oil and beeswax would add firmness to

>the bar. I also realize the bigger the lye % is the softer the bar

>but I'd rather have moisturizing bar than a very firm bar. Is there

>a way to have both? Not asking for much am I! LOL

> in Bremerton

>

>

>

>> ,

>> When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap.

>We will

>> not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant.

>A

>> humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they

>grate

>> the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

>> Hope that helps some

>> Sherry in Aberdeen

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Now the best and coolest websites come right to you based on your

>unique interests. eTour.com is surfing without searching.

>And, it's FREE!

>http://click./1/3013/0/_/533249/_/956799892/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest guest

OH, ,

You made my day,calling me an angel. That is a first, LOL

Sherry inAberdeen I " m an angel you guys, did you all read that. See ,

nicole doesn't care what you say about your " bottle brat " LOL

Re: Additives & lye questions

>Sherry,

>I think you have been answering all of my questions of late, you must

>be my soap angel. Thank you for the info. I have been making soap

>for about five months and have experiemented alot with different

>oils. I mostly use olive oil as a base with coconut oil, palm oil,

>then I usually use others like shea butter, almound oil, castor oil

>for conditioning qualities in less than 10% quanities. I just wanted

>to know if I was doing something wrong. I do use veg. short. in some

>recipes as a main base then try to use oils that help add

>hardness/firmness to the bar. Like the honey soap I made this

>weekend, I used 5.6% almond oil, 5.6% castor oil, 5% shea butter,

>8.75% beeswax, 15% olive oil, 20% coconut oil, 40% veg. shortening,

>7% lye caculation, 10.6oz water, and 3oz of honey. I unmolded it

>after 48 hrs. I started to cut it and it was pretty soft still, so

>only cut half of it. It smells so good, I just hope it hardens up

>more. I thought the cocounut oil and beeswax would add firmness to

>the bar. I also realize the bigger the lye % is the softer the bar

>but I'd rather have moisturizing bar than a very firm bar. Is there

>a way to have both? Not asking for much am I! LOL

> in Bremerton

>

>

>

>> ,

>> When we think of hard bar of soap, our mind goes to industry soap.

>We will

>> not acheive that. The remove the glycerine, which is a humectant.

>A

>> humectant is a substance which draws moistrue to itself. Then they

>grate

>> the soap and run tons of pressure (rollars) over it, and cut it out.

>> Hope that helps some

>> Sherry in Aberdeen

>

>

>

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>Now the best and coolest websites come right to you based on your

>unique interests. eTour.com is surfing without searching.

>And, it's FREE!

>http://click./1/3013/0/_/533249/_/956799892/

>------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>Check out our homepage at

http://www.angelfire.com/mi/Soapmaking101/index.html

>

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