Guest guest Posted April 19, 2000 Report Share Posted April 19, 2000 I sliced the soap I discovered it had small > >white little beads in the center. What are the beads? my guess is the beads are shea......i've noticed this happening to me with beeswax too. the soap continues to lather fine though. it may be cooling too quick, or the base at 100 degrees may not be high enough to incorporate such a solid oil properly. It also was weeping > >droplets of oil. When I moved the rack off the table there where droplets > >of oil on the table. I did the tongue test and it did not tingle. It tasted > >like soap. i had this happen with an fo, um, lettuce. it made little drop holes throughout the soap, like you described. i chose to " cut them out " and use the soap, because everything else was fine. it was not lye heavy or even overly superfatted. if you keep documentation, you may see a pattern emerge, with certain oils. you might choose to cut out the milk until you discover where the " problem " occurs, or if it does. Milk adds heat and it just makes the puzzle a bit more difficult. i think it changes the landscape. all combinations are not always compatiable and if you cut it out and the recipe works, you may discover milk is the culprit (i personally don't think that's the case here, but you do have many " subplots " going with this recipe. we choose certain oils for the benefits they add. i don't usually use almond. someone else may use exclusively almond because of a property they are looking for (for instance, grapeseed oil is wasted in soapmaking because the lye trashes the oil.......any positive property going in is destroyed in saponification castor on the other hand, " absorbs " the lye in a sense). i think i've read that laura tries her recipes once " unscented " until she sees how the oils react together. was that you laura? it may be good to go to your basic recipe (maybe a 1 lber?) and " superfat " with one oil at a time. get the feel of what the oil is doing~~ i usually use shea or castor, but not both, you get the idea. also, silverlink has oil properties listed.........the fat content, the fatty acid content and what the characteristics/properties are of each oil. i will try and find that link. i need to print it and paste it to my binder. >So I'm beginning to think I don't understand the superfatting process. > >Someone enlighten me, please. why do you think the problem is here? just because the oils are added at the tail end, doesn't necessarily give the lye less of chance of incorporating it into " soap " (this is an often debated point which i don't even pretend to be knowledgable about). what does guaranty superfatting, in my book is using an oil like avocado that just ignores the sap process, per se. i think you are asking wise questions. soaping is an art and it's magic. sometimes it takes just a wink and a prayer, and it's perfect! you are doing good. i am struggling with soft soap. i have some of these recipes a gazillion times, but darn it, my soap has become soft. i'm really frustrated about it, so i can feel your pain, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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