Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 The best vapor seal for concrete is made by Dependable and called Vapor Seal. Beware as all with all products there are limitations and can only be applied if proper moisture readings have been taken prior to installation. Manufacturer will warrant there produce, including anything applied to the floor including tile or carpeting. Any questions check there web site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 You have a couple issues that need to be assessed first: 1. Is the concrete a (a) capillary source of moisture (rising damp) or ( a potential water vapor issue? Also, does it have rebar?? 2. Will the concrete be allowed a drying period before coating? 3. The metallic foil (probably Aluminum) acts as a vapor barrier in the wall. Unfortunately, being on the drywall on the cold (conditioned side) of the wall in a cooling climate (Florida) will create a long-term condensation issue. You need to know the wall construction and you should model it using MOIST or WUFI before proceeding. [Note: metallic foils on drywall work fine in the north (when properly designed/installed)] If you want a coating for the concrete, you need to know the answer to 1. For a – a sparge coating or mastic or other waterproofing on the outside based on the on-site conditions. For b – a low perm but not a barrier (>1 to 5 perm) so as not to trap moisture or create spalling or create excess head pressure in the concrete If there is rebar, you need to assess the corrosion at this point. There are ASTM polarization and impedance methods to do this non-destructively. Tony ....................................................................... " Tony " Havics, CHMM, CIH, PE pH2, LLC 5250 E US 36, Suite 830 Avon, IN 46123 off fax cell 90% of Risk Management is knowing where to place the decimal point...any consultant can give you the other 10%(SM) This message is from pH2. This message and any attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information, and are intended only for the individual or entity identified above as the addressee. If you are not the addressee, or if this message has been addressed to you in error, you are not authorized to read, copy, or distribute this message and any attachments, and we ask that you please delete this message and attachments (including all copies) and notify the sender by return e-mail or by phone at . Delivery of this message and any attachments to any person other than the intended recipient(s) is not intended in any way to waive confidentiality or a privilege. All personal messages express views only of the sender, which are not to be attributed to pH2 and may not be copied or distributed without this statement. From: iequality [mailto:iequality ] On Behalf Of ryan sherry Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 8:42 PM To: iequality Subject: concrete moisture sealer The residence is in south florida with a drainage problem resulting in saturated soils on the perimeter of the house. Bottom of drywall has been water damaged. Drainage improvement measures will be taken, but I would like to recommend that the bottom four feet of concrete block walls and floors be sealed to prevent moisture vapor intrusion. I am looking for some insight from somebody that has had success at using specific products. Additionally, the existing drywall on the perimeter walls contains a mettalic foil backing. Has anybody had any projects where this type of drywall on perimeter walls resulted in condensation of backside of drywall. Thanks in advance for any help. Sherry, CMC Southern Sciences, Inc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Thanks Tony, Please see my responses in red below. Tony Havics wrote: You have a couple issues that need to be assessed first: 1. Is the concrete a (a) capillary source of moisture (rising damp) or ( a potential water vapor issue? Saturated Ground Also, does it have rebar?? Concrete Slab, do not know if rebar. Wall are block 2. Will the concrete be allowed a drying period before coating? I can not be sure it will 3. The metallic foil (probably Aluminum) acts as a vapor barrier in the wall. Unfortunately, being on the drywall on the cold (conditioned side) of the wall in a cooling climate (Florida) will create a long-term condensation issue. You need to know the wall construction and you should model it using MOIST or WUFI before proceeding. [Note: metallic foils on drywall work fine in the north (when properly designed/installed)] Where does one get the MOIST or WUFI program? If you want a coating for the concrete, you need to know the answer to 1. For a – a sparge coating or mastic or other waterproofing on the outside based on the on-site conditions. For b – a low perm but not a barrier (>1 to 5 perm) so as not to trap moisture or create spalling or create excess head pressure in the concrete If there is rebar, you need to assess the corrosion at this point. There are ASTM polarization and impedance methods to do this non-destructively. Tony ...................................................................... "Tony" Havics, CHMM, CIH, PE pH2, LLC 5250 E US 36, Suite 830 Avon, IN 46123 (317) 718-7020 off fax cell 90% of Risk Management is knowing where to place the decimal point...any consultant can give you the other 10%(SM) This message is from pH2. This message and any attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information, and are intended only for the individual or entity identified above as the addressee. If you are not the addressee, or if this message has been addressed to you in error, you are not authorized to read, copy, or distribute this message and any attachments, and we ask that you please delete this message and attachments (including all copies) and notify the sender by return e-mail or by phone at . Delivery of this message and any attachments to any person other than the intended recipient(s) is not intended in any way to waive confidentiality or a privilege. All personal messages express views only of the sender, which are not to be attributed to pH2 and may not be copied or distributed without this statement. From: iequality [mailto:iequality ] On Behalf Of ryan sherry Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 8:42 PM To: iequality Subject: concrete moisture sealer The residence is in south florida with a drainage problem resulting in saturated soils on the perimeter of the house. Bottom of drywall has been water damaged. Drainage improvement measures will be taken, but I would like to recommend that the bottom four feet of concrete block walls and floors be sealed to prevent moisture vapor intrusion. I am looking for some insight from somebody that has had success at using specific products. Additionally, the existing drywall on the perimeter walls contains a mettalic foil backing. Has anybody had any projects where this type of drywall on perimeter walls resulted in condensation of backside of drywall. Thanks in advance for any help. Sherry, CMC Southern Sciences, Inc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 > You have a couple issues that need to be assessed first: > > 1. Is the concrete a (a) capillary source of moisture (rising damp) or ( a potential water vapor issue? Saturated Ground > Also, does it have rebar?? Concrete Slab, do not know if rebar. Wall are block > 2. Will the concrete be allowed a drying period before coating? I can not be sure it will > 3. The metallic foil (probably Aluminum) acts as a vapor barrier in the wall. Unfortunately, being on the drywall on the cold (conditioned side) of the wall in a cooling climate (Florida) will create a long-term condensation issue. You need to know the wall construction and you should model it using MOIST or WUFI before proceeding. [Note: metallic foils on drywall work fine in the north (when properly designed/installed)] Where does one get the MOIST or WUFI program? > > If you want a coating for the concrete, you need to know the answer to 1. > > For a – a sparge coating or mastic or other waterproofing on the outside based on the on-site conditions. > For b – a low perm but not a barrier (>1 to 5 perm) so as not to trap moisture or create spalling or create excess head pressure in the concrete > > If there is rebar, you need to assess the corrosion at this point. There are ASTM polarization and impedance methods to do this non-destructively. > > Tony > ................................................................ ....... > " Tony " Havics, CHMM, CIH, PE > pH2, LLC > 5250 E US 36, Suite 830 > Avon, IN 46123 > off > fax > cell > > 90% of Risk Management is knowing where to place the decimal point...any consultant can give you the other 10%(SM) > > > This message is from pH2. This message and any attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information, and are intended only for the individual or entity identified above as the addressee. If you are not the addressee, or if this message has been addressed to you in error, you are not authorized to read, copy, or distribute this message and any attachments, and we ask that you please delete this message and attachments (including all copies) and notify the sender by return e-mail or by phone at . Delivery of this message and any attachments to any person other than the intended recipient(s) is not intended in any way to waive confidentiality or a privilege. All personal messages express views only of the sender, which are not to be attributed to pH2 and may not be copied or distributed without this statement. > > > --------------------------------- > > From: iequality [mailto:iequality ] On Behalf Of ryan sherry > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 8:42 PM > To: iequality > Subject: concrete moisture sealer > > > The residence is in south florida with a drainage problem resulting in saturated soils on the perimeter of the house. Bottom of drywall has been water damaged. Drainage improvement measures will be taken, but I would like to recommend that the bottom four feet of concrete block walls and floors be sealed to prevent moisture vapor intrusion. I am looking for some insight from somebody that has had success at using specific products. > > Additionally, the existing drywall on the perimeter walls contains a mettalic foil backing. Has anybody had any projects where this type of drywall on perimeter walls resulted in condensation of backside of drywall. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > > Sherry, CMC > Southern Sciences, Inc. > The foil is probably a radiant backing wich is used to reflect infrared radiation away from the structure. Condensation occurs when water vapor contacts a surface below the ambient dewpoint of the air. Measurement of the backing side of the drywall with a sruface contact temperature measuring device (such as a thermocouple) up and down the length of the drywall will assess the thermal uniformity. If uniform, then condensation should not be related to any particular segment of the drywall surface. If water staining is observed over the entire elevation of the drywall, then condensation could be running down the foil backing. Additionally, cold air intrusion from the interior could be occuring through protrusions in the interior wall surface such as junction boxes. This may very well cause condensation. The lower water vapor levels in the environment during the winter months may render psychrometric measurements invalid. The problem may have been occuring during the warmer months. Hoe this helps. Jeff Deuitch Microbiologist Administrator, the IAQforum www.iaqforum.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Our " sick house " was the result of saturated ground wicking up through slab/stemwalls (in California). After first drainage fix (which turned out to be inadequate) we removed 100% of carpet from downstairs, then installed a vinyl flooring type moisture barrier. Unfortunately, the effect was to concentrate the moisture coming up into the walls and especially under the house's extensive cabinetry -- in effect, concentrating the contaminants the water was bringing into the house. The moisture barrier held, but its intended effect was not achieved. Based on that experience, and realizing that your local conditions are different from ours (but high groundwater isn't that different from the perched water we were dealing with), I'd recommend a focus on drainage and drying out. At the risk of beating my dead horse again, " the drains must be deeper than the wicking height of the soil, below the slab and stemwalls, even if you have to pump to achieve this. " Steve Chalmers stevec@... ---------------------- 1a. concrete moisture sealer Posted by: " ryan sherry " ryanshrry@... ryanshrry Thu Jan 4, 2007 7:30 am (PST) The residence is in south florida with a drainage problem resulting in saturated soils on the perimeter of the house. Bottom of drywall has been water damaged. Drainage improvement measures will be taken, but I would like to recommend that the bottom four feet of concrete block walls and floors be sealed to prevent moisture vapor intrusion. I am looking for some insight from somebody that has had success at using specific products. Additionally, the existing drywall on the perimeter walls contains a mettalic foil backing. Has anybody had any projects where this type of drywall on perimeter walls resulted in condensation of backside of drywall. Thanks in advance for any help. Sherry, CMC Southern Sciences, Inc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Steve: Your recommendations have a lot of merit, i.e., deep drains. It is so easy and so very cheap to install a robust vapor barrier prior to concrete being poured. However, after the structure is built, it is often damn difficult to mitigate a significant water-vapor problem, and most topical treatments are only partially effective; as you experienced. In situations where the water table is high, or there is persistent soil-moisture issues, deep drains can be effective and multiple drains may be necessary. Even vertical, interceptor, drains can be effective. If the water table can be lowered immediately under the structure, soil moisture can be limited and/or mitigated. However, in locations where the source of water is infinite, the sump pumps need to run almost 24/7/365 to effect control. Beware!....In some locations this requires a discharge permit, and heaven help you if there are contaminants in the ground water, these may require treatment prior to discharging the water. Quite an expensive undertaking when the fix, pre-construction, is cheap and effective. For what it is worth.... -- Geyer, PE, CIH, CSP President KERNTEC Industries, Inc. Bakersfield, California www.kerntecindustries.com Our " sick house " was the result of saturated ground wicking up through slab/stemwalls (in California). After first drainage fix (which turned out to be inadequate) we removed 100% of carpet from downstairs, then installed a vinyl flooring type moisture barrier. Unfortunately, the effect was to concentrate the moisture coming up into the walls and especially under the house's extensive cabinetry -- in effect, concentrating the contaminants the water was bringing into the house. The moisture barrier held, but its intended effect was not achieved. Based on that experience, and realizing that your local conditions are different from ours (but high groundwater isn't that different from the perched water we were dealing with), I'd recommend a focus on drainage and drying out. At the risk of beating my dead horse again, " the drains must be deeper than the wicking height of the soil, below the slab and stemwalls, even if you have to pump to achieve this. " Steve Chalmers stevec@... <mailto:stevec%40surewest.net> ---------------------- 1a. concrete moisture sealer Posted by: " ryan sherry " ryanshrry@... <mailto:ryanshrry%40yahoo.com> ryanshrry Thu Jan 4, 2007 7:30 am (PST) The residence is in south florida with a drainage problem resulting in saturated soils on the perimeter of the house. Bottom of drywall has been water damaged. Drainage improvement measures will be taken, but I would like to recommend that the bottom four feet of concrete block walls and floors be sealed to prevent moisture vapor intrusion. I am looking for some insight from somebody that has had success at using specific products. Additionally, the existing drywall on the perimeter walls contains a mettalic foil backing. Has anybody had any projects where this type of drywall on perimeter walls resulted in condensation of backside of drywall. Thanks in advance for any help. Sherry, CMC Southern Sciences, Inc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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