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Re: Problem with new Bare/Rife

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In a message dated 12/18/2005 3:01:39 PM Central Standard Time,

minor.1@... writes:

I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my

> MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down

> anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under

> 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same

> except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner

> may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest

> swr's I can get? thx mike.

just a little follow up.... I was told by another rife user that he has

never got as low a swr as my other unit (1.1-1.2) . Does that mean that the

first unit is not working properly or does that mean that this new unit is?

which is better? 1.1 or 1.8? all the same equipment except the single buld

tube is made with a littler smaller diameter glass. mike.

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Sylwood,

I say it again, most people are trying to forge more power into the tube

then the tube needs.

Result, to high SWR. If you have a modulated amp you can precisely dosage

the amount of power needed. As you say, used a smaller tube, ...that`s the

clue.

If you have no modulating amp, put one or two 12V car lamps in series and

Eureka!

> I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my

> MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down

> anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under

> 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same

> except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner

> may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest

> swr's I can get? thx mike.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these

are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty

good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my experience.

Dave

sylwood122003 wrote:

> I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my

> MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down

> anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under

> 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same

> except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner

> may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest

> swr's I can get? thx mike.

>

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Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using different

types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I may have to

change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now is that

when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling gets very

hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my finger

and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow up..lol.

Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1 and never get

the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it after

running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not burn. So, which

is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im hearing

from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to burn

paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the amp

(pacific

rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am gonna get the

other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But can't

till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend,

Sylvester.

n a message dated 12/19/2005 12:44:43 PM Central Standard Time,

w.rekow@... writes:

Just to add to Dave's comments... For my R/B system I used a Cheb 1 "

U-Tube with collars made from 1 " copper pipe. The MFJ antenna tuner

was modified by Jim Bare. The SWR before starting the audio

frequencies is about 1.1. When audio frequencies are running the SWR

is about 1.3. I have not experimented enough with different

configurations to know which factors most affect these SWR values.

The system has been very effective.

Warren Rekow

Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these

are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty

good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my

experience.

Dave

sylwood122003 wrote:

> I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my

> MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down

> anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under

> 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same

> except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner

> may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest

> swr's I can get? thx mike.

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Just to add to Dave's comments... For my R/B system I used a Cheb 1 "

U-Tube with collars made from 1 " copper pipe. The MFJ antenna tuner

was modified by Jim Bare. The SWR before starting the audio

frequencies is about 1.1. When audio frequencies are running the SWR

is about 1.3. I have not experimented enough with different

configurations to know which factors most affect these SWR values.

The system has been very effective.

Warren Rekow

Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these

are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty

good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my

experience.

Dave

sylwood122003 wrote:

> I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my

> MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down

> anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under

> 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same

> except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner

> may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest

> swr's I can get? thx mike.

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I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex

tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass

tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to

the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching.

One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even

when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that

end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks

like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will

implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a

great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit.

hope this helps a bit....

>

>

> Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using

different

> types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I

may have to

> change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now

is that

> when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling

gets very

> hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my

finger

> and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow

up..lol.

> Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1

and never get

> the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it

after

> running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not

burn. So, which

> is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im

hearing

> from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to

burn

> paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the

amp (pacific

> rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am

gonna get the

> other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But

can't

> till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend,

> Sylvester.

>

>

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Hi,

Check the discoloured collar for a proper fit. If it is a little looser than

the other these exact symptoms will occur ... namely premature burning of the

metal and the tube glass. It will also cause problems with your SWR levels on a

Bare/Rife type device.

Yours,

Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D.

iamabigdolt wrote:

I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex

tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass

tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to

the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching.

One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even

when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that

end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks

like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will

implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a

great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit.

hope this helps a bit....

Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of answers through

unrelenting search.

__________________________________________________

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Hello,

Our engineer has constructed several of the Bare/rife type devices and tells

me that the coupling to the tube should NEVER be as hot as you are describing.

He tells me here that after running 2-3 hours of protocol or test the couplings

[or collars] are hot, but can be touched without burning yourself.

Yours,

Ian MacLeod, Ph.D.

sylwood12@... wrote:

Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using different

types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I may have to

change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now is that

when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling gets very

hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my finger

and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow up..lol.

Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1 and never get

the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it after

running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not burn. So, which

is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im hearing

from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to burn

paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the amp

(pacific

rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am gonna get the

other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But can't

till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend,

Sylvester.

Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of answers through

unrelenting search.

__________________________________________________

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Hi Ian and Dave,

Thanks for the feedback. The collars are made from copper pipe so the

inside diameter is the same for both. They are shimmed (since the

inside diameter is slightly larger that the tube) with teflon

plummbers tape. My SWR is just fine and the tube works very well, so

other than the heat, which doesn't seem to be hurting anything, I

don't see a problem worth chasing after.

thanks,

Dave

> I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex

> tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass

> tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to

> the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching.

> One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even

> when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that

> end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks

> like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will

> implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a

> great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit.

>

> hope this helps a bit....

>

> Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of

answers through unrelenting search.

> __________________________________________________

>

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