Guest guest Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 In a message dated 12/18/2005 3:01:39 PM Central Standard Time, minor.1@... writes: I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my > MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down > anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under > 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same > except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner > may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest > swr's I can get? thx mike. just a little follow up.... I was told by another rife user that he has never got as low a swr as my other unit (1.1-1.2) . Does that mean that the first unit is not working properly or does that mean that this new unit is? which is better? 1.1 or 1.8? all the same equipment except the single buld tube is made with a littler smaller diameter glass. mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 Sylwood, I say it again, most people are trying to forge more power into the tube then the tube needs. Result, to high SWR. If you have a modulated amp you can precisely dosage the amount of power needed. As you say, used a smaller tube, ...that`s the clue. If you have no modulating amp, put one or two 12V car lamps in series and Eureka! > I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my > MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down > anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under > 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same > except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner > may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest > swr's I can get? thx mike. > > > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my experience. Dave sylwood122003 wrote: > I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my > MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down > anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under > 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same > except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner > may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest > swr's I can get? thx mike. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using different types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I may have to change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now is that when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling gets very hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my finger and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow up..lol. Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1 and never get the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it after running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not burn. So, which is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im hearing from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to burn paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the amp (pacific rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am gonna get the other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But can't till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend, Sylvester. n a message dated 12/19/2005 12:44:43 PM Central Standard Time, w.rekow@... writes: Just to add to Dave's comments... For my R/B system I used a Cheb 1 " U-Tube with collars made from 1 " copper pipe. The MFJ antenna tuner was modified by Jim Bare. The SWR before starting the audio frequencies is about 1.1. When audio frequencies are running the SWR is about 1.3. I have not experimented enough with different configurations to know which factors most affect these SWR values. The system has been very effective. Warren Rekow Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my experience. Dave sylwood122003 wrote: > I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my > MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down > anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under > 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same > except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner > may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest > swr's I can get? thx mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 Just to add to Dave's comments... For my R/B system I used a Cheb 1 " U-Tube with collars made from 1 " copper pipe. The MFJ antenna tuner was modified by Jim Bare. The SWR before starting the audio frequencies is about 1.1. When audio frequencies are running the SWR is about 1.3. I have not experimented enough with different configurations to know which factors most affect these SWR values. The system has been very effective. Warren Rekow Mike, I'd look at the tube wrapping, or collars.. I've found that these are really critical for low SWR's. An SWR of below 1.5:1 is pretty good, 2:1 is pretty bad ... 1.1:1 is hard to get down to, in my experience. Dave sylwood122003 wrote: > I just built my 3rd Rife and am having a problem. On this new one, my > MFJ tuner is readind the SWR's over 2 and I cant seem to get them down > anymore. On the last one I built, most freqs are almost pegged under > 1.1 . Any ideas on what could be going on? Every part is the same > except the bulb is a little smaller on the new one. I think my tuner > may be bad or something. Also, Is it correct that I want the lowest > swr's I can get? thx mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 20, 2005 Report Share Posted December 20, 2005 I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching. One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit. hope this helps a bit.... > > > Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using different > types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I may have to > change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now is that > when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling gets very > hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my finger > and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow up..lol. > Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1 and never get > the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it after > running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not burn. So, which > is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im hearing > from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to burn > paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the amp (pacific > rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am gonna get the > other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But can't > till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend, > Sylvester. > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 20, 2005 Report Share Posted December 20, 2005 Hi, Check the discoloured collar for a proper fit. If it is a little looser than the other these exact symptoms will occur ... namely premature burning of the metal and the tube glass. It will also cause problems with your SWR levels on a Bare/Rife type device. Yours, Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D. iamabigdolt wrote: I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching. One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit. hope this helps a bit.... Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of answers through unrelenting search. __________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 20, 2005 Report Share Posted December 20, 2005 Hello, Our engineer has constructed several of the Bare/rife type devices and tells me that the coupling to the tube should NEVER be as hot as you are describing. He tells me here that after running 2-3 hours of protocol or test the couplings [or collars] are hot, but can be touched without burning yourself. Yours, Ian MacLeod, Ph.D. sylwood12@... wrote: Ok, I just experimented a lot with tube wrapping. I tried using different types of wire, with and with the couplings. The only difference is I may have to change the inductance to get my swrs around 1.3. The problem now is that when I get it around 1.3, The bulb is pretty bright and the coupling gets very hot. I mean very hot. I can run for like 1-2 mins, turn off, lick my finger and it will sizzle and bubble up my spit. Im scared it gonna blow up..lol. Just a note...on the other rife I made, the swrs would get to 1.1 and never get the coupling anywhere near that hot...In fact, you could touch it after running it for 30-45 mins later. It would be kinda hot, but not burn. So, which is better? Now im wondering if the other rife is correct, Cause Im hearing from some that the coupling should be hot to touch. Almost enough to burn paper. Could the blow up the bulb? It almost seems to me that the amp (pacific rife) is putting out too much power to this smaller bulb. I am gonna get the other bulb and try it on this machine to see if its different. But can't till tommorrow and damit, Im just impatient. Your friend, Sylvester. Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of answers through unrelenting search. __________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Hi Ian and Dave, Thanks for the feedback. The collars are made from copper pipe so the inside diameter is the same for both. They are shimmed (since the inside diameter is slightly larger that the tube) with teflon plummbers tape. My SWR is just fine and the tube works very well, so other than the heat, which doesn't seem to be hurting anything, I don't see a problem worth chasing after. thanks, Dave > I run a Rife/Bare that I built with a Bill Cheb 1 " straight pyrex > tube. I use 1 " wide copper collars. My first tube was a leaded glass > tube - burnt a hole in it fairly quickly. That is when I switched to > the pyrex tube. Never had a problem in over 3 years since switching. > One end of the tube under the collar gets orange hot in spots but even > when running a 3 hour protocol there is no problem. The collar on that > end has been darken considerably due to the heat. The other end looks > like a regular piece of copper. By the way it won't expolde, it will > implode as the tube is at less than atmospheric pressure. Makes a > great sucking noise! My swr runs around 1.2 give or take a bit. > > hope this helps a bit.... > > Dr. Ian MacLeod, Ph.D., Liao Ning Research Group. In pursuit of answers through unrelenting search. > __________________________________________________ > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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