Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Hi group / Barb As Bruce wrote. Mold is an allergen dead or alive. Options : Soda blast trusses to remove growth and treat with an inhibitor. (clean up involved) Spray trusses with cleaner that will deactivate enzymes and kill mold. A spray coat sealer / inhibitor would follow. http://www.anabec.com/ Moisture issue : Depends where you live. In warm moist areas that are not subjected to freezing weather , I actually advise people to CLOSE off all attic openings and vapor proof / insulate the underside of the roof decking. Once the attic is included inside the living envelope, humidity conditions will drop ,as now the moisture cannot get in ,and that which is there can escape thru the drywall ceiling and be removed by the A/C system. More info at : Energy & Environmental Builders Association Re: Building in hot humid climates No the roof doesn't get destroyed. Added heat load from non-vented attic offset by lack of latent load thru ceiling. Valin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Note to UV light enthusiasts . UV eats things that are not protected such as Motor windings in A/C blower units, Plastic drain pans, Non UV rated wiring used for controls, Belts. Think about the short circuit, duct fire or smoke damage that is possible and make sure these items are protected before signing your name to it. Valin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Barb: I suggest you post a picture of your trusses and attic. If you are talking about not being able to control humidity in your attic and about having enough vents to get rid of toxins...I suspect some inspector unknowingly took you for a ride. Please fully explain your situation - the solution will most likely be very straight forward. And, you shouldn't have to replace trusses. Cassidy Kuchenbecker s Engineering > > > > I know filtration and ventilation are the right things for indoor > air. > > I was looking for a solution to attic. I have mold up there on > > rafters. Reason has been fixed but can't control the humidity up > > there so I can't figure out how to kill it. I think I have enough > > vents - turtle and eave vents to get rid of toxins and vocs. > > > > > > > > > > FAIR USE NOTICE: > > This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been > specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material > available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, > political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice > issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such > copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. > In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is > distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in > receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. > For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. > If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your > own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright > owner. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Barb, Three points: 1. You may be able to put a fan or vent in the attic to pull out the humid air if the air replacing it has a lower humidity. 2. If you want to kill the mold you could try a bleach solution, but the mold should still be removed. 3. Rather than replacing the rafters, you may be able to removing it by sanding. Hope that helps. , M.S. CIH CIEC Mold on Attic Rafters If I put ultraviolet lights up in the attic and pointed them toward the rafters, would that kill mold on attic rafters? > > I know filtration and ventilation are the right things for indoor air. > I was looking for a solution to attic. I have mold up there on > rafters. Reason has been fixed but can't control the humidity up > there so I can't figure out how to kill it. I think I have enough > vents - turtle and eave vents to get rid of toxins and vocs. FAIR USE NOTICE: This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 " Bio-Home Solutions " wrote: > > Barb, UV lights would not hurt, I don't know if that would sufficiently kill the mold and remember that dead mold is still a powerful allergen. Best solution would be to remove the affected rafters. > Bruce But would this really help? If conditions permit mold on the rafters, isn't it likely that the roof cap and condensation interface at the walls would be even worse - although hidden? Might not taking care of the rafters be focusing on areas that are at a lower risk area and are suggestive of secondary amplification sites? Sure wouldn't want to go to all that work and miss the primary colony. - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 My South-Florida observation is that fresh-from-the-truss-assembly-plant 20% to 30% of truss lumber exhibits visible mold. I see this on trusses on delivery trucks on the highway and in new construction. (Penicillium was dominant on a tape slide from one section of new-truss lumber.) My speculation is that visible mold is common on truss lumber - in contrast to most other construction lumber - because the truss assemblers use green wood and perform assembly in pole barns with outdoor storage. Why remediate visible mold on truss lumber - let along remove the lumber - unless there is a genuine reason to believe that the visible mold will affect the indoor environment; or, of course unless owner emotions control the reasoning? A root-cause solution might include specifying kiln-dried or treated lumber as part of the truss specification. _______________________________ ESH is an ISO-9001 company. Customer Satisfaction is our Mission .... Quality is our Passion. Banks , PE, CIH, CSP Environment, Safety and Health, LC 9256 Southeast Venus Street Hobe Sound, Florida 33455 Telephone: Facsimile: Website: www.ESHpartnering.com Re: Mold on Attic Rafters " Bio-Home Solutions " wrote: > > Barb, UV lights would not hurt, I don't know if that would sufficiently kill the mold and remember that dead mold is still a powerful allergen. Best solution would be to remove the affected rafters. > Bruce But would this really help? If conditions permit mold on the rafters, isn't it likely that the roof cap and condensation interface at the walls would be even worse - although hidden? Might not taking care of the rafters be focusing on areas that are at a lower risk area and are suggestive of secondary amplification sites? Sure wouldn't want to go to all that work and miss the primary colony. - FAIR USE NOTICE: This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 REMOVE THE AFFFECTED RAFTERS???? You have got to be kidding! Bruce, you are definitely not a contractor nor do you have any building sense. One does not just " remove rafters. " Moreover, once the affected rafters are replaced, the new rafters will support mold growth because the moisture has not been effectively controlled. If a rafter becomes structurally unsound (regardless of reason), it is not removed; a new rafter is scabbed in alongside, or at half-span and blocked. Rarely is one removed; and if done so, the roof system above it should also be removed/replaced (e.g., to nail the sheeting). First question, Why can't the humidity be controlled in the attic? (Too little info is provided to determine the answer.) If there is mold in the attic and it is on dimensional timber, it is due to excessive moisture in the attic. In climates where humidity is problematic, ventilated attics may not be appropriate. In this case, the attic may need to be part of the conditioned space and pressurized with conditioned air. Are there other reasons why moisture is allowing mold growth?...don't know...could be. Will UV lights help...probably not, because: 1) they have a limited range of effectiveness, 2) a lot of lamps would be needed to affect/reduce mold growth in an attic, and 3) the root cause of the problem is excessive attic moisture and UV lamps only treat the symptom (i.e., the mold) and do not control the primary problem. Barb...My suggestion is to get a person with some building sense (not Bruce) and determine what is needed to permanently reduce the humidity load in your attic. I have insufficient info to help you, but a reputable, local builder in your area should. For what it is worth.... -- Geyer, PE, CIH, CSP President KENTEC Industries, Inc. Bakersfield, California www.kerntecindustries.com > Barb, > UV lights would not hurt, I don't know if that would sufficiently kill the > mold and remember that dead mold is still a powerful allergen. Best > solution would be to remove the affected rafters. > > Bruce > > Bruce Rundlett, BBEC > Bio-Home Solutions > HC 1 Box 3354 > Oracle,AZ 85623 > > www.bio-homesolutions.com > > > Mold on Attic Rafters > > If I put ultraviolet lights up in the attic and pointed them toward > the rafters, would that kill mold on attic rafters? > > >> >> I know filtration and ventilation are the right things for indoor > air. >> I was looking for a solution to attic. I have mold up there on >> rafters. Reason has been fixed but can't control the humidity up >> there so I can't figure out how to kill it. I think I have enough >> vents - turtle and eave vents to get rid of toxins and vocs. > > > > > > > > > > FAIR USE NOTICE: > > This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been > specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material > available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, > political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice > issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such > copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. > In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is > distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in > receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. > For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. > If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your > own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright > owner. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Banks , Whether unseasoned (green) or seasoned (air dried or kiln dried), lumber exposed to moisture will support mold growth. This is an issue that has resulted in numerous papers from the Wood Truss Council of America, Southern Pine Council, Western Wood Products Association, and others. These papers consistently urge the proper shipping, storage, and handling of construction materials to prevent the exposure (to water) problems that result in mold growth. Also consistent, albeit often primarily for customer peace-of-mind (which translates to less potential for litigation), is the recommendation to remove (not kill) mold growth discovered during the construction process. Many of these papers also address discoloration due to sap stain (a.k.a. blue stain) versus mold growth. FYI - The Truss Plate Institute has a technical report titled " Lumber Moisture Content Effect on Plated Truss Design " that discusses some of the problems associated with the use of green (or wet) wood. This report describes some fairly significant concerns associated with the use of green wood for truss construction. Curtis Redington, RS Environmental Quality Specialist City of Wichita Dept. of Environmental Health Wichita KS Re: Mold on Attic Rafters " Bio-Home Solutions " wrote: > > Barb, UV lights would not hurt, I don't know if that would sufficiently kill the mold and remember that dead mold is still a powerful allergen. Best solution would be to remove the affected rafters. > Bruce But would this really help? If conditions permit mold on the rafters, isn't it likely that the roof cap and condensation interface at the walls would be even worse - although hidden? Might not taking care of the rafters be focusing on areas that are at a lower risk area and are suggestive of secondary amplification sites? Sure wouldn't want to go to all that work and miss the primary colony. - FAIR USE NOTICE: This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 In Texas attic air is not considered indoor air. Therefore, it's a moot point. See below: Texas Mold Assessment and Remediation Rules §295.302. Definitions. (16) Indoor air - Air within the envelope of a building, including air in spaces normally occupied by persons in the building but excluding air in attics and crawl spaces that are vented to the outside of the building. Mold on Attic Rafters> > If I put ultraviolet lights up in the attic and pointed them toward> the rafters, would that kill mold on attic rafters?> > >> >> I know filtration and ventilation are the right things for indoor> air. >> I was looking for a solution to attic. I have mold up there on>> rafters. Reason has been fixed but can't control the humidity up>> there so I can't figure out how to kill it. I think I have enough>> vents - turtle and eave vents to get rid of toxins and vocs.> > > > > > > > > > FAIR USE NOTICE:> > This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been> specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material> available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental,> political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice> issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such> copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law.> In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is> distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in> receiving the included information for research and educational purposes.> For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml.> If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your> own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright> owner. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 In this area I find common sense prevails. I heartedly agree with Geyer that the problem causing the mold growth can be identified and remediated. The key is getting the right professionals to make the determination of causation, resulting damage and building repair, followed by the best method of remediating the mold growth. Moffett Mold on Attic Rafters > > If I put ultraviolet lights up in the attic and pointed them toward > the rafters, would that kill mold on attic rafters? > > >> >> I know filtration and ventilation are the right things for indoor > air. >> I was looking for a solution to attic. I have mold up there on >> rafters. Reason has been fixed but can't control the humidity up >> there so I can't figure out how to kill it. I think I have enough >> vents - turtle and eave vents to get rid of toxins and vocs. > > > > > > > > > > FAIR USE NOTICE: > > This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been > specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material > available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, > political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice > issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such > copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. > In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is > distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in > receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. > For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. > If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your > own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright > owner. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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