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Shell,

Improperly cured concrete? How was this determined? Pretty unlikely.

Who ruled out CO, HCHO, and mold? How?

What was the property filled with before building?

Simple fix, de-pressurize the floor.

Bob

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Is it possible there could be moisture leaching through the walls? I can't think of the term but when dirty concrete is used it never cures right and then there is this white algae substance that builds up. It could be there is improper ventilation and there is minute dust particles bothering their bronchial tubes. Not an expert, just some thoughts. Shell Bleiweiss wrote: Anyone know about health effects of improperly cured concrete in the basement of a home? I have a prospective client who gets sick with burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending much time in the basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in basement also have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been ruled out. PC says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up with water and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a while, then came back. Ideas? Shell BleiweissLaw Offices of Shell J. BleiweissEnvironmental and OSHA LawChicago and Barrington IL Officeswww.shell-bleiweiss.com

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Shell,

I think you should collect an air sample and

have it analyzed for total particles using TEM and XRD.  You may wish to collect  a wipe sample or two as reference

material for the analyst.  There are

probably many labs that can do this, but I use EMSL for this particular analysis.  Their # is 800- 220-3675 and ask for the IH lab.

Mark Doughty

Concrete

Dust?

Anyone know about health effects of

improperly cured concrete in the basement of a home? I have a prospective

client who gets sick with burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending

much time in the basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in

basement also have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been

ruled out. PC says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up

with water and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a while, then

came back. Ideas?

Shell Bleiweiss

Law Offices of Shell J. Bleiweiss

Environmental and OSHA Law

Chicago and Barrington IL Offices

www.shell-bleiweiss.com

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Also, take some pH paper and see if it is alkaline.

-----Original Message-----From: iequality [mailto:iequality ]On Behalf Of Mark DoughtySent: Friday, June 30, 2006 9:59 AMTo: iequality Subject: RE: Concrete Dust?

Shell,

I think you should collect an air sample and have it analyzed for total particles using TEM and XRD. You may wish to collect a wipe sample or two as reference material for the analyst. There are probably many labs that can do this, but I use EMSL for this particular analysis. Their # is 800- 220-3675 and ask for the IH lab.

Mark Doughty

-----Original Message-----From: iequality [mailto:iequality ] On Behalf Of Shell BleiweissSent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 1:44 PMTo: iequality Subject: Concrete Dust?

Anyone know about health effects of improperly cured concrete in the basement of a home? I have a prospective client who gets sick with burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending much time in the basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in basement also have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been ruled out. PC says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up with water and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a while, then came back. Ideas?

Shell BleiweissLaw Offices of Shell J. BleiweissEnvironmental and OSHA LawChicago and Barrington IL Officeswww.shell-bleiweiss.com

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Shell -

Just a quick comment on basements. I saw a report on a home recently

had people with trouble breathing in the basement. Consultants were

baffled -- couldn't find any sources. Finally someone discovered that

so much CO2 was entering the basement from the soil, the CO2 was

displacing the oxygen. Low O2 - who'd have thought! So occasionally it

may be worthwhile to measure O2 or CO2.

In your case, the continued dust makes me think something else is

happening. I'd want to cover the slab for a while, see if the dust is

still appearing. I'd also like to put a dust sample under the

microscope and see if it's all cement dust or if it looks like something

else.

Good fortune!

Henry

Henry Slack, P.E.

U.S. EPA Region 4

Indoor Air Program

For more assistance, try EPA's Web site, www.epa.gov/iaq

or call EPA's Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse

. Experts are available 9-5 M-F

>Anyone know about health effects of improperly cured concrete in the

>basement of a home? I have a prospective client who gets sick with

>burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending much time in the

>basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in basement

also

>have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been ruled

out. PC

>says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up with

water

>and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a while, then

came

>back. Ideas?

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Shell:

Sealing the concrete with a commercial product designed for concrete

products may solve the problem, especially the dustiness. It might also

be worth while checking on any concrete admixtures (e.g., fly ash) to

the concrete that may have been added.

Don Schaezler, Ph.D., P.E., CIH

ETC Information Services, LLC

Cibolo, Texas

Shell Bleiweiss wrote:

>

> Anyone know about health effects of improperly cured concrete in the

> basement of a home? I have a prospective client who gets sick with

> burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending much time in the

> basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in basement

> also have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been ruled

> out. PC says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up

> with water and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a

> while, then came back. Ideas?

>

> Shell Bleiweiss

> Law Offices of Shell J. Bleiweiss

> Environmental and OSHA Law

> Chicago and Barrington IL Offices

>

> www.shell-bleiweiss.com <http://www.shell-bleiweiss.com>

>

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Bob:

Please explain what you mean by depressurizing the floor. I think of

creating positive or negative pressure in a structure or area as a way of

assuring that bad stuff moves through openings in the direction we want

(i.e. radon not coming in, asbestos fibers not going out). If that is what

you mean by depressurize the floor, how does it deal with a floor itself

(the suspicion, not proven by any means) that is producing the problem?

Remember, I am a lawyer, not an engineer. Think of me as your 8 year old son

and explain, explain, explain <g>.

Shell Bleiweiss

Law Offices of Shell J. Bleiweiss

Environmental and OSHA Law

Chicago and Barrington IL Offices

www.shell-bleiweiss.com

Re: Concrete Dust?

> Shell,

>

> Improperly cured concrete? How was this determined? Pretty unlikely.

>

> Who ruled out CO, HCHO, and mold? How?

>

> What was the property filled with before building?

>

> Simple fix, de-pressurize the floor.

>

> Bob

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

> This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always

been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such

material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental,

political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice

issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such

copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law.

In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is

distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in

receiving the included information for research and educational purposes.

For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml.

If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your

own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright

owner.

>

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Shell,

If I were looking for someone who may have prior knowledge of ill health complaints brought on by new construction/possible slab problems, I would go to Seats of Homeowners Against Deficient Dwellings ns@... or Janet Ammand of Homeowners for Better Builders president@.... Both women volunteer much time on the subject and have for several years. I am sure they would both be glad to help you, if they can. And I would be inclined to think if anybody, they have probably seen this problem before.

Sharon

>> Anyone know about health effects of improperly cured concrete in the basement of a home? I have a prospective client who gets sick with burning lungs and flu like symptoms when spending much time in the basement of new (Feb. 2005) home. Others who spend time in basement also have similar symptoms. CO, formaldehyde and mold have been ruled out. PC says concrete floor seems dusty all the time. They cleaned up with water and vacuuming and aired out and problem subsided for a while, then came back. Ideas?> > Shell Bleiweiss> Law Offices of Shell J. Bleiweiss> Environmental and OSHA Law> Chicago and Barrington IL Offices> > www.shell-bleiweiss.com

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Steve:

You describe a VERY common problem in new construction, and the problem is

pervasive all over the U.S. Excessive soil-moisture intrusion (and

secondary effects) accounts for over 60% of new home construction complaints

nation-wide! I find it ironic and humorous at the same time, and don't

understand why the building codes don't prescribe more effective vapor

barriers and/or why administrative requirements (local building codes) don't

step-in where the regional building codes are deficient. It is not like

these issues are new, or unknown. If a robust vapor barrier was installed

at the time of construction, problems associated with excessive moisture

vapor, radon, and other soil gases would be mute. Many codes still

recommend a single layer of 4-mil or 6-mil polyethylene. If you ever built

anything, or were involved with fabricating foundations, most single sheets

of poly don't survive the installation of rebar and dobie-blocks, and

concrete contractors routinely puncture and tear whatever sheet plastic is

present. They often don't care. My standard vapor barrier design is: 1 " to

2 " of clean, medium to fine-grain construction sand, two layers of 6-mil

black poly (available at any home-improvement store), staggered sheets with

50% overlap, seams sealed with clear packaging tape (any tape will do and it

is available at any office supply store), then covered with another 2 " layer

of clean sand. All plumbing and structural penetrations are sealed with

plastic sheeting and tape. The BIGGEST issue (after the barrier is

installed) is to supervise the concrete contractor for job-site performance,

i.e., no rebar or metal stakes through the plastic, and NO leaning on the

shovel! (You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to break laborers of this

habit.) If properly done, this barrier will last the life of the structure,

keep out water, radon, and all other vapors. Total cost?...Under $1,000 for

a 2,000-sq.ft. building footprint, slab-on-grade foundation. If really high

concentrations of soil-gas vapors are present at the building site, an

HDPE/ABS french-drain system placed just under the bottom sand layer and

plumbed to the roof, provides a preferential pathway for gases to safely

migrate. The whole system is passive and requires no energy input ever. If

soil-water is an issue, a HDPE french-drain system placed below the vadose

zone (capillary fringe) will do nicely if sloped to drain/sump. It is SO

EASY to install these systems correctly at the time of construction, and

like you experienced, it is a damn costly nightmare to retrofit later.

This is a BIG practice area of mine, i.e., designing vapor barriers for new

construction and fixing problem buildings that have vapor intrusion. I often

see many nice, new (i.e., less than 3-yrs old), buildings that are really

harmed due to an inadequate or poorly installed vapor barrier; and once the

concrete is placed, there is not a whole lot that can be done within a

reasonable budget to mitigate the problem. Moreover, the most effective

mitigation controls are often active systems that have significant

life-cycle costs. The lack of front-end (pre-concrete) engineering controls

would eliminate a lot of back-end (post-construction) problems.

For what it is worth...

--

*****************************************************

Geyer PE, CIH, CSP

PRESIDENT

KERNTEC Industries, Inc.

3703 Columbus Street

Bakersfield, California 93306

P

F

mgeyer@...

www.kerntecindustries.com

www.michaelgeyer.com

*****************************************************

> The hallmark of my sick house 10 years ago was efflorescence forming on the

> garage floor, which was the lowest concrete slab in the house.

>

> The problem was moisture coming up through the slabs, continuously. A

> substance -- which was never identified despite the expenditure of >$10K in

> testing and drawing on the expertise of several highly recommended CIH and

> other experts -- came into the house with that moisture, caused flulike

> symptoms especially in sensitized individuals, and most likely was related to

> an ultrafine white dust we observed after the house had been evacuated for 6

> months.

>

> In retrospect 10 years later, I think the substance was a metal in soluble

> form. Whether it came from the soil, the concrete, or something from the soil

> playing ion-exchange as the water wicked through the slab will never be known.

>

> We fixed the drainage problem (twice, before we got it right) and that stopped

> whatever was coming into the house. " The bottom of the french drains must be

> at least the wicking height of the soil below the base of the stemwalls. "

>

> The importance of the house being only two years old is that something leached

> from the soil has had time to reach the interior of the house, but not enough

> time to leach out all that was in the soil. Just a thought.

>

> Steve Chalmers

> stevec@...

>

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Bob:

Positive pressurization....see my post to .

--

Geyer, PE, CIH, CSP

President

KERNTEC Industries, Inc.

Bakersfield, California

www.kerntecindustries.com

> ,

>

> We bled is 20% outside air to keep the concentration way below the LEL.

>

> I agree that systems can be designed, but other than ripping out the

> concrete floor and putting in a passive system on a grid, and then

> pouring a new floor at a cost of many thousands of dollars.

>

> What other low cost alternatives are there?

>

> Bob

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> FAIR USE NOTICE:

>

> This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been

> specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material

> available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political,

> human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc.

> We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as

> provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title

> 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit

> to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included

> information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to:

> http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted

> material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use',

> you must obtain permission from the copyright owner.

>

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Dang that Spell Check! Did you perhaps mean

" efflorescence " ?

Yes, but I according to my disclaimer, I disavow any knowledge of

having done so. :-) Oh well, disclaimers only go so far. I

guess my enthusiasm in making my comments was a little too

efflorescent. And my spellchecker, it's clueless, although it did

highlight spellchecker.

************************************************************

K. Klein, PE ME, MBA

Indoor Air Quality Solutions, Inc.

2523 SR 133

Bethel, OH 45106-0007

VOICE:

FAX: (with notice)

E-mail: mkklein68@...

************************************************************

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Guest guest

Why is this only a problem with new construction? Certainly old homes didnt have plastic vapor barriers.

Re: Concrete Dust?

Steve:

You describe a VERY common problem in new construction, and the problem is

pervasive all over the U.S. Excessive soil-moisture intrusion (and

secondary effects) accounts for over 60% of new home construction complaints

nation-wide! I find it ironic and humorous at the same time, and don't

understand why the building codes don't prescribe more effective vapor

barriers and/or why administrative requirements (local building codes) don't

step-in where the regional building codes are deficient. It is not like

these issues are new, or unknown. If a robust vapor barrier was installed

at the time of construction, problems associated with excessive moisture

vapor, radon, and other soil gases would be mute. Many codes still

recommend a single layer of 4-mil or 6-mil polyethylene. If you ever built

anything, or were involved with fabricating foundations, most single sheets

of poly don't survive the installation of rebar and dobie-blocks, and

concrete contractors routinely puncture and tear whatever sheet plastic is

present. They often don't care. My standard vapor barrier design is: 1 " to

2 " of clean, medium to fine-grain construction sand, two layers of 6-mil

black poly (available at any home-improvement store), staggered sheets with

50% overlap, seams sealed with clear packaging tape (any tape will do and it

is available at any office supply store), then covered with another 2 " layer

of clean sand. All plumbing and structural penetrations are sealed with

plastic sheeting and tape. The BIGGEST issue (after the barrier is

installed) is to supervise the concrete contractor for job-site performance,

i.e., no rebar or metal stakes through the plastic, and NO leaning on the

shovel! (You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to break laborers of this

habit.) If properly done, this barrier will last the life of the structure,

keep out water, radon, and all other vapors. Total cost?...Under $1,000 for

a 2,000-sq.ft. building footprint, slab-on-grade foundation. If really high

concentrations of soil-gas vapors are present at the building site, an

HDPE/ABS french-drain system placed just under the bottom sand layer and

plumbed to the roof, provides a preferential pathway for gases to safely

migrate. The whole system is passive and requires no energy input ever. If

soil-water is an issue, a HDPE french-drain system placed below the vadose

zone (capillary fringe) will do nicely if sloped to drain/sump. It is SO

EASY to install these systems correctly at the time of construction, and

like you experienced, it is a damn costly nightmare to retrofit later.

This is a BIG practice area of mine, i.e., designing vapor barriers for new

construction and fixing problem buildings that have vapor intrusion. I often

see many nice, new (i.e., less than 3-yrs old), buildings that are really

harmed due to an inadequate or poorly installed vapor barrier; and once the

concrete is placed, there is not a whole lot that can be done within a

reasonable budget to mitigate the problem. Moreover, the most effective

mitigation controls are often active systems that have significant

life-cycle costs. The lack of front-end (pre-concrete) engineering controls

would eliminate a lot of back-end (post-construction) problems.

For what it is worth...

--

*****************************************************

Geyer PE, CIH, CSP

PRESIDENT

KERNTEC Industries, Inc.

3703 Columbus Street

Bakersfield, California 93306

P

F

mgeyer@...

www.kerntecindustries.com

www.michaelgeyer.com

*****************************************************

> The hallmark of my sick house 10 years ago was efflorescence forming on the

> garage floor, which was the lowest concrete slab in the house.

>

> The problem was moisture coming up through the slabs, continuously. A

> substance -- which was never identified despite the expenditure of >$10K in

> testing and drawing on the expertise of several highly recommended CIH and

> other experts -- came into the house with that moisture, caused flulike

> symptoms especially in sensitized individuals, and most likely was related to

> an ultrafine white dust we observed after the house had been evacuated for 6

> months.

>

> In retrospect 10 years later, I think the substance was a metal in soluble

> form. Whether it came from the soil, the concrete, or something from the soil

> playing ion-exchange as the water wicked through the slab will never be known.

>

> We fixed the drainage problem (twice, before we got it right) and that stopped

> whatever was coming into the house. " The bottom of the french drains must be

> at least the wicking height of the soil below the base of the stemwalls. "

>

> The importance of the house being only two years old is that something leached

> from the soil has had time to reach the interior of the house, but not enough

> time to leach out all that was in the soil. Just a thought.

>

> Steve Chalmers

> stevec@...

>

This E-mail scanned for spam and viruses by ATG Internet.

FAIR USE NOTICE:

This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of environmental, political, human rights, economic, democracy, scientific, and social justice issues, etc. We believe this constitutes a 'fair use' of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. For more information go to: http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml. If you wish to use copyrighted material from this site for purposes of your own that go beyond 'fair use', you must obtain permission from the copyright owner.

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Guest guest

The house in question had a heavy plastic vapor barrier under the slab, although

it was one of the first constructed after that became a code requirement here.

My guess is the plumbing wasn't sealed as it went through the plastic.

We observed two problems with the whole concept of using plastic to stop water

coming up: first, most of the water was wicking up through the concrete

stemwalls, which occurs completely independent of any plastic in other places.

We had just the moisture barrier vinyl (the grey stuff) down for several months

before putting new flooring, and could see color changes where water was

reaching it...along the stemwalls. Second, when we used it in the first attempt

at french drains around the house perimeter, it appeared that something was

being concentrated (distilled?) just below the plastic. I had horrible

reactions when the drains were excavated (to make them deeper), when the

underside of the plastic was exposed to air and allowed to dry. My guess is

that the ultrafine dust which was drawn up through slab cracks under the house's

massive cabinetry may have had a similar origin.

This was a problem with perched water over/in hardpan clay, in the presence of

an ornamental retaining wall preventing proper drainage of the front yard, which

are likely not the conditions you are treating. Very similar to that

subdivision in Merced they had to bulldoze around that same time, however.

My own conclusion? Plastic is useless and proper drainage is a must. But

that's just for the problem I had...

Steve Chalmers

stevec@...

--------------------------------

3b.

Re: Concrete Dust?

Posted by: " Geyer " mgeyer@... bs101master

Wed Jul 5, 2006 1:04 pm (PST)

Steve:

You describe a VERY common problem in new construction, and the problem is

pervasive all over the U.S. Excessive soil-moisture intrusion (and

secondary effects) accounts for over 60% of new home construction complaints

nation-wide! I find it ironic and humorous at the same time, and don't

understand why the building codes don't prescribe more effective vapor

barriers and/or why administrative requirements (local building codes) don't

step-in where the regional building codes are deficient. It is not like

these issues are new, or unknown. If a robust vapor barrier was installed

at the time of construction, problems associated with excessive moisture

vapor, radon, and other soil gases would be mute. Many codes still

recommend a single layer of 4-mil or 6-mil polyethylene. If you ever built

anything, or were involved with fabricating foundations, most single sheets

of poly don't survive the installation of rebar and dobie-blocks, and

concrete contractors routinely puncture and tear whatever sheet plastic is

present. They often don't care. My standard vapor barrier design is: 1 " to

2 " of clean, medium to fine-grain construction sand, two layers of 6-mil

black poly (available at any home-improvement store), staggered sheets with

50% overlap, seams sealed with clear packaging tape (any tape will do and it

is available at any office supply store), then covered with another 2 " layer

of clean sand. All plumbing and structural penetrations are sealed with

plastic sheeting and tape. The BIGGEST issue (after the barrier is

installed) is to supervise the concrete contractor for job-site performance,

i.e., no rebar or metal stakes through the plastic, and NO leaning on the

shovel! (You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to break laborers of this

habit.) If properly done, this barrier will last the life of the structure,

keep out water, radon, and all other vapors. Total cost?...Under $1,000 for

a 2,000-sq.ft. building footprint, slab-on-grade foundation. If really high

concentrations of soil-gas vapors are present at the building site, an

HDPE/ABS french-drain system placed just under the bottom sand layer and

plumbed to the roof, provides a preferential pathway for gases to safely

migrate. The whole system is passive and requires no energy input ever. If

soil-water is an issue, a HDPE french-drain system placed below the vadose

zone (capillary fringe) will do nicely if sloped to drain/sump. It is SO

EASY to install these systems correctly at the time of construction, and

like you experienced, it is a damn costly nightmare to retrofit later.

This is a BIG practice area of mine, i.e., designing vapor barriers for new

construction and fixing problem buildings that have vapor intrusion. I often

see many nice, new (i.e., less than 3-yrs old), buildings that are really

harmed due to an inadequate or poorly installed vapor barrier; and once the

concrete is placed, there is not a whole lot that can be done within a

reasonable budget to mitigate the problem. Moreover, the most effective

mitigation controls are often active systems that have significant

life-cycle costs. The lack of front-end (pre-concrete) engineering controls

would eliminate a lot of back-end (post-construction) problems.

For what it is worth...

--

*****************************************************

Geyer PE, CIH, CSP

PRESIDENT

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