Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Shonda, It depends on your situation and how the Fiberlock is to be used. And by whom. This, and other similar products, are greatly misused. Fiberlock is one of the better products available for the remediation industry. However, that doesn't mean Shockwave should be used instead of removing mold. Because it is EPA registered (not " approved " , but registered) the instructions on the label is the law. And EPA regulations for any anti-microbial product is to first remove the mold before using the product. My position is: If the surface with the mold growth is smooth and non-porous then cleaning that surface removes the mold and there is nothing left to kill. So why waste money on a " mold killer. " If it is unfinished wood then sanding will remove the mold that routine cleaning won't. Also, killing mold does not stop the health effects because the half dozen or so components of mold remain after death. Bacteria is as much of a problem as mold. If use of an anti-microbial is appropriate, Shockwave is one of the better ones. But be sure to follow the label instructions and don't let anyone apply it without first removing the mold (bacteria). Lots of companies use chemicals as an additional profit stream, not because they do a better job. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- Has anyone tried Shockwave mold killer by Fiberlock???? It is suppose to be the best out there.....but I was wondering if any one has used it and what they thought of it. They have the MSDS sheets on them on thier web site and the EPA approval....but just like the CDC and the rest of the " higher " up....do we really believe all that they say? So just wanted to know if any one has tried it and what they thought of it. Please reply to me off list. Thanks. Thanks, Shonda bbisquitt@... p.s. (please copy us at the group..from moderator. Thanks) ---------- The following section of this message contains a file attachment prepared for transmission using the Internet MIME message format. If you are using Pegasus Mail, or any other MIME-compliant system, you should be able to save it or view it from within your mailer. If you cannot, please ask your system administrator for assistance. ---- File information ----------- File: DEFAULT.BMP Date: 15 Jun 2009, 23:10 Size: 358 bytes. Type: Unknown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I haven't heard of this, but my understanding is that killing mold is not enuf, that does not get rid of mycotoxins, the mold has to be removed.... If there is an easy and effective way to treat mold that comes out of a bottle, it should be kept on list in my view, we could all use such a product. sue v. >Has anyone tried Shockwave mold killer by Fiberlock???? It is suppose >to be the best out there.....but I was wondering if any one has used it >and what they thought of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 If you use fungicide it remedial and also contaminating, if its sterilization and on going, it will control.No one can, and would, want to eliminate mold entirely, since it need to in its place. > > I haven't heard of this, but my understanding is that killing mold is > not enuf, that does not get rid of mycotoxins, the mold has to be > removed.... If there is an easy and effective way to treat mold that > comes out of a bottle, it should be kept on list in my view, we could > all use such a product. > > sue v. > > >Has anyone tried Shockwave mold killer by Fiberlock???? It is suppose > >to be the best out there.....but I was wondering if any one has used it > >and what they thought of it. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I concur, myself and others whose immune systems have been injured by exposure, find " killing " mold to be VERY counter-productive. The mold will lash out with toxin when it senses a threat-causing more by-products that cannot be washed away. And as spores " die " they will release toxin. Removal , quietly, cutting around the mold, or washing a non-porous item with a cleaner like simple green, is much more effective. And as for wood, sorry to disagree Carl, but the mycelium grows into the wood, releasing toxin into the cellular structure of the wood. Therefor I consider wood to be unremediatable. > > I haven't heard of this, but my understanding is that killing mold is > not enuf, that does not get rid of mycotoxins, the mold has to be > removed.... If there is an easy and effective way to treat mold that > comes out of a bottle, it should be kept on list in my view, we could > all use such a product. > > sue v. > > >Has anyone tried Shockwave mold killer by Fiberlock???? It is suppose > >to be the best out there.....but I was wondering if any one has used it > >and what they thought of it. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 btw, especially for those of you w/mcs, i have read that simple green is not so green, and actually contains nasty ingredients, I think this was per the environmental working group or something, read it in an article about all the chemicals/toxins used to clean our public schools. sue >I concur, myself and others whose immune systems have been injured by >exposure, find " killing " mold to be VERY counter-productive. The mold >will lash out with toxin when it senses a threat-causing more by- >products that cannot be washed away. And as spores " die " they will >release toxin. Removal , quietly, cutting around the mold, or washing a >non-porous item with a cleaner like simple green, is much more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 " carondeen " <kdeanstudios@...> wrote: And as for wood, sorry to disagree Carl, but the mycelium grows into the wood, releasing toxin into the cellular structure of the wood. Therefor I consider wood to be unremediatable. > dont you think that might be somewhat dependent of the type of wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Maybe iron wood from Belize? not a lot of that in the US And as for wood, sorry to disagree Carl, but the mycelium grows into the wood, releasing toxin into the cellular structure of the wood. Therefor I consider wood to be unremediatable. > > > > dont you think that might be somewhat dependent of the type of wood? > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 , I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and the type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such as OSB. The " roots " of the airborne molds growing on solid wood such as pine grows a little over a millimeter into the surface. Because the surface is not smooth, but incredibly " hilly, " the distance from the highest peak to the lowest point has to be added to the one mm. Sanding the surface smooth plus approximately a mm will remove the mold structure. This is usually indicated by removal of the water marking and other discoloration. Mycotoxins, if or when they are released (no one knows for sure but I'd tend to think they would be) would still be limited to a similar very small depth. OSB and particle board, on the other hand, is incredibly porous and can swell when wet which dramatically increases the penetration of the mold mass, hyphae, and absorption of any of the chemical components including toxins. Under those conditions most would agree with you that it should not be remediated. It is more like cloth, couches and mattresses with mold growth on their surfaces. (not remediable). But these types of mold don't penetrate cell walls or go much below the first layer(s)of cells. They are unable to " eat " the wood. The types of mold which can break down the lignin of the cell walls of wood are very different. These are the ones which cause dry rot and wet rot. These, I agree, cannot be remediated. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- On Mon Jan 11 11:02:03 CST 2010, osisposis <jeaninem660@...> wrote: > " carondeen " <kdeanstudios@...> wrote: And as for wood, sorry to > disagree Carl, but the mycelium grows into the wood, releasing > toxin into the cellular structure of the wood. Therefor I > consider wood to be unremediatable. >> > > dont you think that might be somewhat dependent of the type of > wood? > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Carl, is non-treated wood or maybe even treated wood able to exspand if in condictions of constant water sorce ? I realize some would be more resistant than others but eventuall all wood rots/decomposes doesn't it ? wet expanding wood would be,in a way more porus and allow for mold growth ,right ? like say oak logs were setting on the ground. newly cut and seasoned, side by side and exposed to weather, would new cut (even just haveing sap) expand,warp,rot,mold, quicker than the seasoned oak ? > > , > > I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and the > type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such as > OSB. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 There are also those severe reactors, like me for whom wood sucks up the by-products of mold. W told me he has all his antiques sanded and refinished , then stored for a year, when he went to visit them, they still burned his skin. For me, wood is not remediable. > > , > > I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and the > type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such as > OSB. > > The " roots " of the airborne molds growing on solid wood such as > pine grows a little over a millimeter into the surface. Because > the surface is not smooth, but incredibly " hilly, " the distance > from the highest peak to the lowest point has to be added to the > one mm. Sanding the surface smooth plus approximately a mm will > remove the mold structure. This is usually indicated by removal of > the water marking and other discoloration. Mycotoxins, if or when > they are released (no one knows for sure but I'd tend to think > they would be) would still be limited to a similar very small > depth. > > OSB and particle board, on the other hand, is incredibly porous > and can swell when wet which dramatically increases the > penetration of the mold mass, hyphae, and absorption of any of the > chemical components including toxins. Under those conditions most > would agree with you that it should not be remediated. It is more > like cloth, couches and mattresses with mold growth on their > surfaces. (not remediable). > > But these types of mold don't penetrate cell walls or go much > below the first layer(s)of cells. They are unable to " eat " the > wood. The types of mold which can break down the lignin of the > cell walls of wood are very different. These are the ones which > cause dry rot and wet rot. These, I agree, cannot be remediated. > > Carl Grimes > Healthy Habitats LLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 I have no doubt that (who I know) continued to react to the wood furniture. But there are so many other likely reasons for the reactions that I wonder why it must be mold, only mold, and nothing else but mold. Too narrow a focus usually continues the reactivity because the real cause can never be found. Because only the mold is considered. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- On Tue Jan 12 09:17:21 CST 2010, carondeen <kdeanstudios@...> wrote: > There are also those severe reactors, like me for whom wood sucks > up the by-products of mold. W told me he has all his > antiques sanded and refinished , then stored for a year, when he > went to visit them, they still burned his skin. For me, wood is > not remediable. > > >> >> , >> >> I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and >> the >> type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such >> as >> OSB. >> >> The " roots " of the airborne molds growing on solid wood such as >> pine grows a little over a millimeter into the surface. Because >> the surface is not smooth, but incredibly " hilly, " the distance >> from the highest peak to the lowest point has to be added to the >> one mm. Sanding the surface smooth plus approximately a mm will >> remove the mold structure. This is usually indicated by removal >> of >> the water marking and other discoloration. Mycotoxins, if or when >> they are released (no one knows for sure but I'd tend to think >> they would be) would still be limited to a similar very small >> depth. >> >> OSB and particle board, on the other hand, is incredibly porous >> and can swell when wet which dramatically increases the >> penetration of the mold mass, hyphae, and absorption of any of >> the >> chemical components including toxins. Under those conditions most >> would agree with you that it should not be remediated. It is more >> like cloth, couches and mattresses with mold growth on their >> surfaces. (not remediable). >> >> But these types of mold don't penetrate cell walls or go much >> below the first layer(s)of cells. They are unable to " eat " the >> wood. The types of mold which can break down the lignin of the >> cell walls of wood are very different. These are the ones which >> cause dry rot and wet rot. These, I agree, cannot be remediated. >> >> Carl Grimes >> Healthy Habitats LLC > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 With constant water, of course. The key is the moisture content of the wood and how long it exceeds the limit of that piece of wood. Keep in mind that other parameters are also involved. Wood at the bottom of a lake doesn't rot. It's too wet. Actually, there's so much water that there is no oxygen so the mold and bacteria don't grow. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- On Tue Jan 12 12:15:56 CST 2010, osisposis <jeaninem660@...> wrote: > Carl, is non-treated wood or maybe even treated wood able to > exspand if in condictions of constant water sorce ? > I realize some would be more resistant than others but eventuall > all wood rots/decomposes doesn't it ? > wet expanding wood would be,in a way more porus and allow for > mold growth ,right ? > like say oak logs were setting on the ground. > newly cut and seasoned, side by side and exposed to weather, > would new cut (even just haveing sap) expand,warp,rot,mold, > quicker than the seasoned oak ? > > >> >> , >> >> I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and >> the >> type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such >> as >> OSB. >> > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I have always had the same burning skin reaction from clothing and items exposed to mold. Others who are severe reactors experience this also. I think it is very important to listen to you bodies signals, especially if it is confirmed by people who have your issues. That professionals do not always concur is I believe because they have not experienced the same level of reactivity. > >> > >> , > >> > >> I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and > >> the > >> type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such > >> as > >> OSB. > >> > >> The " roots " of the airborne molds growing on solid wood such as > >> pine grows a little over a millimeter into the surface. Because > >> the surface is not smooth, but incredibly " hilly, " the distance > >> from the highest peak to the lowest point has to be added to the > >> one mm. Sanding the surface smooth plus approximately a mm will > >> remove the mold structure. This is usually indicated by removal > >> of > >> the water marking and other discoloration. Mycotoxins, if or when > >> they are released (no one knows for sure but I'd tend to think > >> they would be) would still be limited to a similar very small > >> depth. > >> > >> OSB and particle board, on the other hand, is incredibly porous > >> and can swell when wet which dramatically increases the > >> penetration of the mold mass, hyphae, and absorption of any of > >> the > >> chemical components including toxins. Under those conditions most > >> would agree with you that it should not be remediated. It is more > >> like cloth, couches and mattresses with mold growth on their > >> surfaces. (not remediable). > >> > >> But these types of mold don't penetrate cell walls or go much > >> below the first layer(s)of cells. They are unable to " eat " the > >> wood. The types of mold which can break down the lignin of the > >> cell walls of wood are very different. These are the ones which > >> cause dry rot and wet rot. These, I agree, cannot be remediated. > >> > >> Carl Grimes > >> Healthy Habitats LLC > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 skin types also play a role in sensitivity. just like fair skin sunburns easier. > > > > I have no doubt that (who I know) continued to react to > > the wood furniture. But there are so many other likely reasons for > > the reactions that I wonder why it must be mold, only mold, and > > nothing else but mold. Too narrow a focus usually continues the > > reactivity because the real cause can never be found. Because only > > the mold is considered. > > > > Carl Grimes > > Healthy Habitats LLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 there is something about old wood smell but I'm not sure if it's all related to mold. trees pick up alot of things out of the air as they grow. I think these things maybe are released as they age too. a lover of antiques just is really hard to get out of your system. still cant picture myself in some streamline glass metal home. I love wood. but I cant even go into a antique store anymore. now you have to know theres some pretty moldy things there, but if cross contamination was a hudge issue, they would all be ruined and I dont thing thats the case. > > > > > > I have no doubt that (who I know) continued to react to > > > the wood furniture. But there are so many other likely reasons for > > > the reactions that I wonder why it must be mold, only mold, and > > > nothing else but mold. Too narrow a focus usually continues the > > > reactivity because the real cause can never be found. Because only > > > the mold is considered. > > > > > > Carl Grimes > > > Healthy Habitats LLC > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I had always wondered about this as I had many antiques in my home which my son put in storage. If you were to sand and urethane or shellac a piece of furniture, how would the toxins, spores, etc ever penetrate the finish? I just dont see how that would be possible. I was hoping to someday be able to salvage my antiques. Thanks D > >> > >> , > >> > >> I understand your point and it depends on the type of mold and > >> the > >> type of wood, also whether solid wood or manufactured wood such > >> as > >> OSB. > >> > >> The " roots " of the airborne molds growing on solid wood such as > >> pine grows a little over a millimeter into the surface. Because > >> the surface is not smooth, but incredibly " hilly, " the distance > >> from the highest peak to the lowest point has to be added to the > >> one mm. Sanding the surface smooth plus approximately a mm will > >> remove the mold structure. This is usually indicated by removal > >> of > >> the water marking and other discoloration. Mycotoxins, if or when > >> they are released (no one knows for sure but I'd tend to think > >> they would be) would still be limited to a similar very small > >> depth. > >> > >> OSB and particle board, on the other hand, is incredibly porous > >> and can swell when wet which dramatically increases the > >> penetration of the mold mass, hyphae, and absorption of any of > >> the > >> chemical components including toxins. Under those conditions most > >> would agree with you that it should not be remediated. It is more > >> like cloth, couches and mattresses with mold growth on their > >> surfaces. (not remediable). > >> > >> But these types of mold don't penetrate cell walls or go much > >> below the first layer(s)of cells. They are unable to " eat " the > >> wood. The types of mold which can break down the lignin of the > >> cell walls of wood are very different. These are the ones which > >> cause dry rot and wet rot. These, I agree, cannot be remediated. > >> > >> Carl Grimes > >> Healthy Habitats LLC > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 Diane, I would have someone else do it and let them cure out for a long period of time. I think you would have to have them dipped to seal both sides. I dont think myco's would be a factor, only mold growth. if they are dry,seems it would work. myco's are only a problem when their air born/inhaled/ingested or make skin contact. > > > > I have no doubt that (who I know) continued to react to > > the wood furniture. But there are so many other likely reasons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 Probably all you can do is try it. Everything is porous to some extent. I believe shellac is better at containment than paint. > > I had always wondered about this as I had many antiques in my home which my son put in storage. If you were to sand and urethane or shellac a piece of furniture, how would the toxins, spores, etc ever penetrate the finish? I just dont see how that would be possible. I was hoping to someday be able to salvage my antiques. Thanks D > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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