Guest guest Posted May 4, 2004 Report Share Posted May 4, 2004 >Which ingredients are truly known to penetrate the epidermis, >and/or assist the skin/body in some way? I do not knowing use raw materials that will penetrate below the Stratum Corneum. I think using a raw material that penetrates below the Stratum Corneum is a dangerous thing. > I hear all kinds of >anecdotal stories about emu oil carrying actives into the skin, and >similar things, but what ingredients are really useful? I've heard many claims but little or no substantiation. Emu Oil would probably be banned from cosmetics if anyone could prove that it penetrated below the Stratum Corneum. > For example, >do vitamins absorb into the skin? Plant actives? Other chemicals? Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) penetrates into the blood stream in a matter of minutes. Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 8, 2004 Report Share Posted May 8, 2004 Sherry, Actually, phytosterols and EFA do penetrate the skin. The outer layer of skin is meant to keep moisture in the skin - it does this by being very impermeable to water. Therefor, water based products do not penetrate the skin, however, fat soluble components are able to pass through the cells very effectively. This is because the membrane of the cell is made of fat. If this were not true, drugs like estrogen, would not effectively be transmitted through the skin using " the patch " Sagescript Institute, LLC Microbiology Assays http://www.sagescript.com > It's not that I necessarily want anything to penetrate the skin, I'm > just wondering how things such as phytosterols and EFAs work if they > are just laying on top of the skin and not penetrating it? > > Just being a devil's advocate... > Sherry Boester > Wildwood BodyWorks .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 8, 2004 Report Share Posted May 8, 2004 membrane of the cell is made of fat. If this were not true, drugs like estrogen, would not effectively be transmitted through the skin <Thank you very much, Coral Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 9, 2004 Report Share Posted May 9, 2004 >Actually, phytosterols and EFA do penetrate the skin. Do you have any literature citations to support that statement? Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 10, 2004 Report Share Posted May 10, 2004 Maurice, Well, we know that the skin barrier is due to cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramide - there are many reviews that tell us that, here is one: Acta Derm Venereol Suppl (Stockh). 2000;208:7-11. Related Articles, Links Lipids and barrier function of the skin. Wertz PW. Dows Institute University of Iowa, Iowa City 52242, USA. philip- wertz@... The purpose of the present manuscript is to review the chemical and physical properties of epidermal lipids and to relate these properties to the formation and function of the permeability barrier of the skin. Lipids accumulate in small organelles known as lamellar granules as epidermal keratinocytes differentiate. This lipid is extruded into the intercellular spaces where it undergoes enzymatic processing to produce a lipid mixture consisting of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. This intercellular lipid is uniquely organized into a multilamellar complex that fills most of the intercellular space of the stratum corneum. The barrier properties of the stratum corneum are related to the phase behavior of the intercellular lipids. It has been proposed that a structurally unusual acylglucosylceramide is thought to be involved in assembly of the lamellar granules, and a related acylceramide may have a major influence on the organization of the lamellae in the stratum corneum. As chemists we also know that like dissolves like; so logically, fatty acids would be soluble in the fatty acids of the skin. I don't think a literature citation is necessary for that. However, here is one that demonstrates that EFAs improve the permeability of other drugs: Int J Pharm. 2003 Aug 11;261(1-2):165-9. The in vitro delivery of NSAIDs across skin was in proportion to the delivery of essential fatty acids in the vehicle--evidence that solutes permeate skin associated with their solvation cages? Heard CM, Gallagher SJ, Harwood J, Maguire PB. Welsh School of Pharmacy, Cardiff University, CF10 3XF, Cardiff, UK. heard1@... As part of our investigations into novel dual action topical anti- arthritis systems, the permeation of ibuprofen or ketoprofen plus eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) were determined from a fish oil vehicle across pig ear skin in vitro. The steady state fluxes of ibuprofen and ketoprofen were 9.17+/-1.98 microgram cm(-2)h(-1) and 6.12+/-2.39 microgram cm(-2)h(-1), respectively. At 24h, 5.7 microgram cm(-2) EPA and 3.1 microgram cm(- 2) DHA permeated when the solute was ibuprofen; 1.4 microgram cm(-2) EPA and 1.0 microgram cm(-2) DHA when ketoprofen was the solute. At 12h, the ketoprofen/ibuprofen ratio of the moles permeated was 0.27, the ratio of EPA permeated simultaneously with ketoprofen and ibuprofen was 0.22 and the ratio of DHA permeated simultaneously with ketoprofen and ibuprofen was 0.24. We believe this is the first time that simultaneous permeation across skin of a solute and its vehicle has been determined purposefully. The data successfully demonstrated that simultaneous permeation of NSAIDs and essential fatty acids, EPA and DHA from a formulation containing fish oil is feasible. In addition, for both NSAIDs, the relative rates of permeation of EPA and DHA, were in proportion to their levels in the fish oil and the permeation rate of either fatty acid was higher when the permeation rate of the solute was greater. This suggested that the greater the rate of permeation of the NSAID, the greater the rate of permeation of the vehicle, and that a solute permeates skin complete with its vehicular solvation cage. This apparent relationship between solute and vehicle fluxes may be of more widespread significance to skin permeation experimentation. Here are a few citations for phytosterols; interstingly they go both ways - outside to inside and inside to outside. Biol Pharm Bull. 1996 Apr;19(4):573-6. Related Articles, Links Inhibitory effects of sterols isolated from Chlorella vulgaris on 12- 0-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate-induced inflammation and tumor promotion in mouse skin. Yasukawa K, Akihisa T, Kanno H, Kaminaga T, Izumida M, Sakoh T, Tamura T, Takido M. College of Pharmacy, Nihon University, Japan. Inhibitory activity against 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA)-induced inflammation in mice was observed in the methanol extract of Chlorella vulgaris, a green alga. The hexane soluble fraction obtained from the methanol extract exhibited marked inhibitory activity from which were isolated two delta(5,7)-sterols (ergosterol and 7-dehydroporiferasterol), two delta(5,7,9(11))- sterols [7,9(11)-dehydroergosterol and 7,9(11)- bisdehydroporiferasterol], two 5 alpha, 8 alpha-epidioxy-delta(6)- sterols (ergosterol peroxide and 7-dehydroporiferasterol peroxide), and a 7-oxo-delta(5)-sterol (7-oxocholesterol), among others. The delta 5'7-sterols, 5 alpha, 8 alpha-epidioxy-delta(6)-sterols and 7- oxo-delta 5-sterol inhibited TPA-induced inflammation in mice. The 50% inhibitory dose of these compounds for TPA-induced inflammation was 0.2-0.7 mg/ear. Furthermore, ergosterol peroxide markedly inhibited the tumor-promoting effect of TPA in 7,12-dimethylbenz[a] anthracene-initiated mice. Oncology. 1991;48(1):72-6. Related Articles, Links Sterol and triterpene derivatives from plants inhibit the effects of a tumor promoter, and sitosterol and betulinic acid inhibit tumor formation in mouse skin two-stage carcinogenesis. Yasukawa K, Takido M, Matsumoto T, Takeuchi M, Nakagawa S. College of Pharmacy, Nihon University, Chiba, Japan. A single topical application of 1 microgram of 12-O- tetradecanoylphorbol- 13-acetate (TPA) to the ears of mice was shown to induce edema, and this TPA-induced inflammation was inhibited by 4-methylsterol and triterpene derivatives. The ED50 of these compounds against TPA-induced inflammation was 0.1-3 mumol. Phytosterols had only slight inhibitory effects. Furthermore, application of 5 micrograms TPA to mouse skin rapidly caused accumulation of ornithine decarboxylase (ODC). Similarly, sitosterol and lupane-type triterpene derivatives markedly inhibited this TPA- induced ODC accumulation. In addition, 5 mumol betulinic acid markedly inhibited the promoting effect of 2.5 micrograms TPA applied twice weekly on skin tumor formation in mice initiated with 50 micrograms of 7,12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene, and 5 mumol of sitosterol caused slight suppression. Thus, the inhibitory effects of sterol and triterpene derivatives on TPA-induced inflammation roughly parallelled their inhibitory activities against tumor promotion. J Invest Dermatol. 1983 Apr;80(4):294-6. Related Articles, Links The origin of plant sterols in the skin surface lipids in humans: from diet to plasma to skin. Bhattacharyya AK, Connor WE, Lin DS. To test the hypothesis that plant sterols found in the skin surface lipids of humans originated from diet after their absorption from intestine into plasma and then transferred to skin, we studied the 24-h excretion of plant sterols and cholesterol from skin and in feces in a hyperlipoproteinemic (type IIa) patient fed formula diets providing varying quantities of plant sterols (0-30 g/day) and cholesterol (0-1000 g/day). Upon feeding a sterol-free diet, the beta-sitosterol excretion from the skin decreased progressively, from about 6 mg/day to 0.08 mg/day by 83 days and then completely disappeared. With addition of plant sterols (about 30 g/day) to the diet, beta-sitosterol reappeared in the skin surface lipids and rose to nearly 5 mg/day by 6 weeks. With feeding of the sterol-free diet, the fecal excretion of beta-sitosterol and the 2 other plant sterols decreased gradually and by week 4 disappeared completely from the feces and continued to be absent from the feces as long as the diet was free of plant sterols. The results demonstrated clearly that plant sterols which were absorbed into the plasma from the diet were excreted into the skin surface lipids after being transferred from the plasma to the skin. I actually didn't think it was anything questionable that I said. We are all aware that drugs can be delivered through the skin. For instance; nicotine patch, nitroglycerin patch, estradiol patch, lidocaine patch, scopalamine patch . . What these drugs have in common is that they are lipid soluble which allows them to go through the skin. There is also much research going on to try to encapsulate drugs that are not lipid soloble into lipid micells (spheres) that will carry these water soluble drugs through the skin. cindy jones > >Actually, phytosterols and EFA do penetrate the skin. > Do you have any literature citations to support that statement? > Maurice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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