HLB question

[Guest guest]

I just read through the HLB system notes and it was like a lightbulb

being turned on in my head! Although I am now wondering.... I

couldn't find the HLB value for Ewax NF - am I missing something?

love,

[Guest guest]

>I couldn't find the HLB value for Ewax NF - am I missing something?

We know, by definition, that Emulsifying Wax NF " is a waxy solid

prepared from Cetostearyl Alcohol containing a polyoxyethylene

derivative of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan. "

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/files/Ingredients/EmulsifyingW\

axNF.pdf

Cetostearyl Alcohol is a mixture of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol.

The INCI name for Cetostearyl Alcohol is Cetearyl Alcohol. The required

HLB of Cetearyl Alcohol is 15.5.

The second part of Emulsifying Wax NF, the emulsifier is " a

polyoxyethylene derivative of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan " .

The polyoxyethylene derivative of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan could

be:

Polysorbate 20 (HLB = 16.7)

Polysorbate 60 (HLB = 14.9)

Polysorbate 80 (HLB = 15)

Polysorbate 85 (HLB = 11)

Since the required HLB of Cetearyl Alcohol is 15.5, we must choose a

polysorbate that has a HLB close to 15.5.

Polysorbate 80 should work, but, since Polysorbate 80 is a liquid, the

resultant mixture of Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 80 would probably

soft and/or mushy.

Polysorbate 60 is firmer and has a HLB of 14.9. I believe Emulsifying

Wax NF is a blend of Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60.

So, Emulsifying Wax NF is a self-emulsifying fatty alcohol. In theory

and practice, you can eliminate Emulsifying Wax NF by adding the

Cetostearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60 as separate ingredients.

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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[Guest guest]

> So, Emulsifying Wax NF is a self-emulsifying fatty alcohol. In theory

> and practice, you can eliminate Emulsifying Wax NF by adding the

> Cetostearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60 as separate ingredients.

I thought this might be the case, but as ewax NF comes in a premixed

form, without knowing the exact % of cetostearyl and ps60 that makes

up ewax, how do you enter them as separate values?

I'm wondering..... emulsifying wax NF is always going to be the same %

of cetostearyl to ps20.... so once we know what the value of each is,

we can add it together and then come up with a HLB for it as a

combined product - yes? Wouldn't that save time when entering into

the calculator?

BTMS is easier (I think) as is is Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol, and I know that the one I am using contains the

cetearyl at 75% and the behentrimonium at 25% so I CAN enter those as

separate values (if of course I could find the HLB of benetrimonium,

which is proving challenging)..... then once I know how much of each I

need I can combine the quantity to come up with a % of BTMS that I

need to use. I got that right haven't I? I can then add a new

ingredient to my calculator called BTMS and enter it's HLB value.

Oh another question.... one of the documents I read on using HLB said

it is mostly used for nonionic emulsifiers, and as the BTMS is a

cationic emulsifier, does that mean my musings above are not applicable?

Ooops - another question....I want to combine a surfactant and an oil

to make a blooming bath oil that bubbles. I am guessing polysorbate

80 is the best choice.... can I use the calculator to give me an ideal

% rate of ps80 needed to emulsify the two?

As always, thank you for your help :-)

regards,