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Re: facial cleanser vs. facial oil

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>Thx maurice for the clarification, but for some reason, the idea of using

>Germaben still turns me off.

You are not alone. Germaben II and Germaben II-E contain olidinyl

Urea. When some people see this on a label, they think that the

product contains urine.

Final Report on the Safety Assessment of olidinyl Urea

J Am Coll Toxicol PG:229-45 YR:1990 IP:2 VI:9

Abstract:

olidinyl Urea is a heterocyclic-substituted urea used as a

preservative in a variety of cosmetic products at a normal product use

concentration of 0.2% to 0.4%, up to a maximum of 1.0%. olidinyl

Urea was slightly toxic to rats in acute oral studies but was

relatively non-toxic in subchronic studies. At 5%, olidinyl Urea

was not an ocular or skin irritant in rabbits. In three studies using a

maximization procedure, olidinyl Urea was a mild sensitizer in

guinea pigs, but was not a sensitizer in a fourth study in which a

nonmaximization procedure was used. olidinyl Urea was nonmutagenic

when tested in the Ames test, or in the micronucleus assay. At

concentration up to 0.4%, olidinyl Urea was a mild cumulative skin

irritant in humans. It was not a sensitizer in an RIPT study on

nonpatient volunteers. Fifty-seven of 2385 patients had allergic

reactions to 1.0% olidinyl Urea. It was not a photosensitizer at

0.25%. This report notes that olidinyl Urea is a formaldehyde

releaser. It has been previously concluded that the use of formaldehyde

in cosmetic products is safe to the great majority of consumers. There

is no indication that the use of olidinyl Urea as used in cosmetic

products would release formaldehyde at concentrations which would

exceed the limits recommended for formaldehyde. The report concludes

that olidinyl Urea may be safely used in cosmetic products at the

minimum effective concentration, not to exceed 0.5%.

> Can you be more specific about the drawbacks of

>potassium sorbate

By itself, Potassium Sorbate will not pass a reasonal challenge test.

> and what options I have as far as antimicrobial action goes?

I would have no problem using one of these preservative systems:

Germaben II (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/

preserv.html

Germaben II-E (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea

(and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/preserv.\

html

Phenonip (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)

Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben)

http://fun.clariant.com/fun/e2wtools.nsf/lookupDownloads/PHENONIP.pdf/$FILE/PHEN\

ONIP.pdf

Germall Plus (INCI name: olidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/germalpls.html

Liquid Germall Plus (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and)

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)

Uniphen P-23 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)

Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben)

LiquaPar PE (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and)

Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/preserv.\

html

LiquaPar Optima (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)

Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben)

While you're in the reading mode, you may want to read the documents:

Biovert Enzyme & Substrate System

http://www.archpersonalcare.com/Products/Product.asp?ID=139

LiquaPar Oil (INCI name: Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and)

Butylparaben)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/preserv.\

html

Suttocide A (INCI name: Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate)

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/preserv.\

html

ISP Preservative

Overview

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/products/index.htm

Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben and Butylparaben

http://fun.clariant.com/fun/e2wtools.nsf/lookupDownloads/ESTERS.pdf/$FILE/ESTERS\

..pdf

Phenoxetol (INCI name Phenoxyethanol)

http://fun.clariant.com/fun/e2wtools.nsf/lookupDownloads/PHENOXETOL.pdf/$FILE/PH\

ENOXETOL.pdf

Suttocide A

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/preservatives/content/brochure/preserve/preserv.\

html

Preservative Testing

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/message/9187

The " Ideal " Preservative

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/message/9189

What is preservation?

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/message/9186

General Microbiology

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/message/9188

>Also, can you confirm or clarify the question of effectiveness of face

>cleansers with or without emulsifiers as well as whether a moisturizer can be

used

>as a cleanser too?

An all oil facial cleanser will remove oil soluble " stuff " from the

face. I don't see how adding emulsifiers to the oils will remove the

oil soluble " stuff " from the face but, as Angie said, it will help in

the rinse off.

Traditional oil-in-water moisturizers can be used to cleanse the face.

Water-in-oil emulsions are also very good and have a long history of

use.

Here are the ingredient declarations for several cleansing products

that are sold by Ponds:

Pond's Deep Cleanser Cold Cream Ingredients:

Mineral Oil, Water, Beeswax, Ceresin, Sodium Borate, Fragrance,

Carbomer

Pond's Cleansing and Make-up Remover Towelettes Ingredients:

Water, Hexylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cucumber Extract (cucumis sativus),

Chamomile Extract (anthemis nobilis), Cornflower Extract (centaurea

cyanus), Camellia Sinensis Extract (green tea), Bisabolol, Tocopheryl

Acetate (vitamin E acetate), Aloe Barbadensis Extract (aloe vera),

Panthenol, Ginseng Extract (panax ginseng), Sodium Lauroamphoacetate,

Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol,

Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Fragrance, Citric Acid, DMDM

Hydantoin, Iodopropyl Butylcarbamate

Pond's Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizer All In One Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Polydecene, Cetyl Octanoate, Stearyl Alcohol, PPG-10

Butanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium Chloride

Phosphate, Dimethicone, Polyquaternium-24, Simethicone, Fragrance,

Methylparaben, Propylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, Titanium Dioxide (CI

77891)

Pond's Clear Solutions Deep Pore Scrub, Oil Free Ingredients:

Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Polyethylene, Propylene Glycol,

Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Hydroxypropyl

Methylcellulose, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract (witch hazel), Humulus

Lupulus Extract (hops), Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract (rosemary),

Swertia Japonica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea),

Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E acetate), Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate,

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Fragrance, Butylene Glycol, Sodium

Chloride, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Disodium EDTA, DMDM Hydantoin,

Imidazolidinyl Urea

Pond's Clear Solutions, Deep Pore Foaming Cleanser, Oil Free Ingredients:

Water, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Glycerin, Sodium C14-16 Olefin

Sulfonate, Silicone Quaternium-8, Polysorbate 80, Cocamidopropyl

Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, PEG-75 Soy

Glycerides, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract (witch hazel), Humulus Lupulus

Extract (hops), Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract (rosemary), Swertia

Japonica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea),

Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Cetyldimonium Phosphate, Gentisic Acid,

Polyquaternium-11, Fragrance, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, DMDM

Hydantoin, Propylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Pond's Dramatic Results Cleansing Towelettes Ingredients:

Water, Glycolic Acid, Ammonium Hydroxide, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexyl

Methoxycinnamate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf

Extract (Green Tea), Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E acetate),

Ginseng Extract (Panax Ginseng), Hydrocotyl Extract, Retinol, Ammonium

Glycyrrhizate, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate,

Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate,

Laureth-4, Cyclomethicone, PEG-4 te, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate

20, Propylene Glycol, Fragrance, BHT, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl

Butylcarbamate

Pond's Deep Cleanser & Make-up Remover with Cucumber Extract Ingredients:

Water, Mineral Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol,

Ceteth-20, Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate,

Carbomer, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-4

te, olidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Butylene

Glycol, Cucumis Sativus Extract (Cucumber)

Pond's Deep Cleansing Lotion & Make-up Remover with Cucumber Extract

Ingredients:

Water, Mineral Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol,

Ceteth-20, Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate,

Carbomer, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-4

te, olidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Butylene

Glycol, Cucumis Sativus Extract (Cucumber)

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

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