Re: balms vs lotions/creams

[Guest guest]

In a message dated 5/19/2004 6:50:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,

aliza@... writes:

I have heard that balms/serums are more moisturizing than

creams/lotions given the same oils/butters involved. Is this true?

If memory serves me it had to do with the water evaporating out and

leaving the skin dryer.

Hi Aliza,

There's no simple answer to your question, but here's a relatively quick

answer There's tons of research on skin moisturization and factors involved

and the issue is a huge one for the cosmetic industry. Skin is generally

composed of water, protein and lipids which is referred to as the natural

moisturizing factor (NMF). We strive to maintain this balance. While it is

generally

recommended to use products with a similar composition to our skin--other

factors come into play. There's a good bit of research on occlusive barrier

type

products in wound healing, etc. Interesting reading. Basically, water is

necessary for skin moisturization. There are lots of factors around skin

moisturization--both external (including the environment) and internal. The

basic idea

for skin moisturization has to do with transepidermal water loss (TEWL). If

the skin is already hydrated, then applying a balm or serum can help to

provide a barrier that prevents moisture loss from the skin. If skin is not

hydrated, the balm will not be as effective. A lotion/cream/emulsion gives a

one-two punch effect so that both water and lipids are applied to the skin at

the

same time, thus hydrating AND providing a lipid " barrier " . For those that want

to use an anhydrous, occlusive balm/serum, rather than an emulsion, I would

recommend making sure the skin is well hydrated first. For example, just after

showering, apply the balm to skin that is still moist. Sometimes an anhydrous

product can be a better choice. Whenever I have been working in water and my

hands are well hydrated, I make sure to apply a balm, rather than an

emulsion---the water wouldn't be absorbed since the skin is already hydrated.

Then there are other ingredients to consider, such as humectants---glycerin,

propylene glycol, sorbitol. The proteins can also assist in moisture

retention as well as some other specialty products.

You may want to take a look in the files section or do a search on skin

physiology. Also, Elaine had an excellent post a couple of weeks ago.

Hope this helps!

Angie

The Herbarie

www.theherbarie.com

[Guest guest]

In a message dated 5/19/2004 6:50:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,

aliza@... writes:

I have heard that balms/serums are more moisturizing than

creams/lotions given the same oils/butters involved. Is this true?

If memory serves me it had to do with the water evaporating out and

leaving the skin dryer.

Hi Aliza,

There's no simple answer to your question, but here's a relatively quick

answer There's tons of research on skin moisturization and factors involved

and the issue is a huge one for the cosmetic industry. Skin is generally

composed of water, protein and lipids which is referred to as the natural

moisturizing factor (NMF). We strive to maintain this balance. While it is

generally

recommended to use products with a similar composition to our skin--other

factors come into play. There's a good bit of research on occlusive barrier

type

products in wound healing, etc. Interesting reading. Basically, water is

necessary for skin moisturization. There are lots of factors around skin

moisturization--both external (including the environment) and internal. The

basic idea

for skin moisturization has to do with transepidermal water loss (TEWL). If

the skin is already hydrated, then applying a balm or serum can help to

provide a barrier that prevents moisture loss from the skin. If skin is not

hydrated, the balm will not be as effective. A lotion/cream/emulsion gives a

one-two punch effect so that both water and lipids are applied to the skin at

the

same time, thus hydrating AND providing a lipid " barrier " . For those that want

to use an anhydrous, occlusive balm/serum, rather than an emulsion, I would

recommend making sure the skin is well hydrated first. For example, just after

showering, apply the balm to skin that is still moist. Sometimes an anhydrous

product can be a better choice. Whenever I have been working in water and my

hands are well hydrated, I make sure to apply a balm, rather than an

emulsion---the water wouldn't be absorbed since the skin is already hydrated.

Then there are other ingredients to consider, such as humectants---glycerin,

propylene glycol, sorbitol. The proteins can also assist in moisture

retention as well as some other specialty products.

You may want to take a look in the files section or do a search on skin

physiology. Also, Elaine had an excellent post a couple of weeks ago.

Hope this helps!

Angie

The Herbarie

www.theherbarie.com

[Guest guest]

>I have heard that balms/serums are more moisturizing than

>creams/lotions given the same oils/butters involved. Is this true?

I'd say that is true in some, but not all, cases. I lot would depend on the

type of emulsion use (o/w vs w/o) and the content of oil phase used in the cream

or lotion.

Of course, the incorporation of a humectant in the water phase will also help

the moiturization of creams and lotions.

>If memory serves me it had to do with the water evaporating out and

>leaving the skin dryer.

That's correct. It's called Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>I have heard that balms/serums are more moisturizing than

>creams/lotions given the same oils/butters involved. Is this true?

I'd say that is true in some, but not all, cases. I lot would depend on the

type of emulsion use (o/w vs w/o) and the content of oil phase used in the cream

or lotion.

Of course, the incorporation of a humectant in the water phase will also help

the moiturization of creams and lotions.

>If memory serves me it had to do with the water evaporating out and

>leaving the skin dryer.

That's correct. It's called Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

I read in my early 'studying' that lotions need both water and oil to be

effective. The water hydrates the skin and the oil actually moisturizes. A

lotion without oil won't moisturize, or soften the skin as well, and a lotion

without water won't hydrate the skin. I can find the source for that, you'll

just have to give me a bit of time!!

From personal experience, I have found that balms are good for

elbows/ankles/cracked skin. One of my best selling products is a cream that is

maybe 1/4 water and 3/4 oil; people tell me they use it for eczema, it's that

moisturizing. The lotions I had that were about 1/3 oil and 2/3 water didn't

stay on the skin as long, so I even quit making them. I prefer the thicker

creams or butters; much more moisturizing. I have skin like a lizard, though!!

Hope that helps, and I'll look for a source on that first info, if you'd like!!

balms vs lotions/creams

I have heard that balms/serums are more moisturizing than

creams/lotions given the same oils/butters involved. Is this true?

If memory serves me it had to do with the water evaporating out and

leaving the skin dryer.

Thanks in advance

Aliza

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