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Re: Lotion without water

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It contains Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20,

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Dimethicone, Steryl Alcohol, Soybean

Oil, Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Hydrolyzed Silk, Aloe Vera Juice,

Disodium EDTA, olidinyl Urea, Benzophenone 4 and Iodopropynl

Butylcarbamate.

I was purchasing a base lotion from my supplier and they replaced it

with this lotion. Not having any water in it struck me funny. I

asked them it this was correct and they told me that these are the

correct ingredients. Until I can get my own base lotion formula

worked out I am purchasing theirs. Is there a way to duplicate a

lotion by just having the ingredients???

Cosmeticinfo , " Maurice Hevey " <maurice@C...> wrote:

>

> > Have you ever seen a silky lotion without water in it? The main

> > ingredient is Isopropyl Myristate.

>

> I haven't. What else is in the product?

>

> Maurice

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> Is there a way to duplicate a

> lotion by just having the ingredients???

When you have an accurate ingredient list, duplication can be

difficult. In this case, the ingredient list is wrong so the chances

of duplicating the product are next to impossible.

You should determine the percent solids or percentage of water.

When I'm trying to duplicate a formula, one of the first things that

I do is determine the amount of water in the formula. If you know how

much water is in the formula you can calculate the percent solids.

This number is important when you want/need to duplicate any formula.

Laboratories have special ovens and devices to determine the percent

solids in a product. But you can do the same thing using your oven.

Step 1) find 3 or 4 small weighing boats. I use small aluminum

weighing boats. Weighing boats are usually shallow containers that

are made out of plastic, glass or aluminum. I like to use aluminum

when I'm doing a percent solids because it won't melt in the oven and

they are disposible.

In the home, you can use small shallow Pyrex bowls or even clean

metal caps from old jars would work.

Step 2) Determine the weight of each weighing boat. This is the Tare

Weight.

Step 3) Add a small amount of your unknown product to each boat.

Step 4) re-weigh the weighing boats with the product. This is the

Gross Weight.

Now with a little math, we can tell how much product is in each

weighing boat. This is the net weight.

Weighing Boat 1 w/o product = 9.7 grams (aka Tare Weight)

Weighing Boat 1 w/ product = 15.2 grams (aka Gross Weight)

So, the amount of unknown product in Weighing Boat 1 is equal to the

weight of Weighing Boat 1 w/ product minus the weight of Weighing

Boat 1 w/o product or 15.2 grams - 9.7 grams = 5.5 grams. This is

also called the Net Weight.

So that means that Weighting Boat 1 contains 5.5 grams.

You should repeat steps 1 through 4 at least three or four times so

that you will have Weighing Boats 1 through 4.

Step 5) Next put these weighing boats on a cookie sheet and put into

oven set at 195F.

Step 6) After 3 to 4 hours of heating, remove samples from the oven

and re-weight the weighing boats to see how much water is lost.

Here's a real life example. I wanted to duplicate a shampoo and need

to know how much water was used in the formula. I did the testing in

triplicate.

BEFORE HEATING

SAMPLE 1

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 1 empty = 1.27 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 1 w/ shampoo = 7.14 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 7.14g - 1.27g = 5.87 grams

SAMPLE 2

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 2 empty = 1.26 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 2 w/ shampoo = 6.48 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 6.48g - 1.26g = 5.22 grams

SAMPLE 3

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 3 empty = 1.27 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 3 w/ shampoo = 8.97 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 8.97g - 1.27g = 7.7 grams

AFTER HEATING

SAMPLE 1

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 1 empty = 1.27 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 1 w/ shampoo = 2.17 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 2.17g - 1.27g = 0.9 grams

SAMPLE 2

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 2 empty = 1.26 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 2 w/ shampoo = 2.06 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 2.06g - 1.26g = 0.8 grams

SAMPLE 3

Tare Wt = Weighing Boat 3 empty = 1.27 grams

Gross Wt = Weighing Boat 3 w/ shampoo = 2.46 grams

Net Weight = (Gross Wt - Tare Wt) = 2.46g - 1.27g = 1.19 grams

By heating these samples, we have evaporated all the water and all

that remains are the other chemicals called solids.

If we know the weight before heating and the weight after heating, we

can calculate the percent solids for each sample, then we can

calculate the average percent solids.

SAMPLE 1

5.87 grams = 100%

0.9 grams = % solids

% solids = (0.9 x 100)/5.87

% solids = 15.3%

SAMPLE 2

5.22 grams = 100%

0.8 grams = % solids

% solids = (0.8 x 100)/5.22

% solids = 15.3%

SAMPLE 3

7.7 grams = 100%

1.19 grams = % solids

% solids = (1.19 x 100)/7.7

% solids = 15.5%

The average % solids is equal to 15.4

Therefore the product being tested in this example contains about 85%

water.

Once we know how much water there is in the formula, we can esitmate

the size of the oil phase.

Maurice

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