Re: Help on discolouration of cream using protein.

[Guest guest]

>Hope someone can advise, who has experience in preventing molecular and

bacterial breakdown in a rich emollient cream that includes only .4% wheat

protein.

Hi ,

I may be able to help you but I have some questions.

1) What is your compounding procedure? How is your formula made?

2) What is this " parabene compound " that you are using?

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

Maruice

Thanks...I am away from my process files for a few days, so I will

detail compound/ emulsifying agents and the preservative system, as

soon as I return.

As mentioned briefly before, this cream was initially only preserved

with poly/methyl parabenes in the water phase,with mould developing

after a few weeks, then I started to apply Biopein in the oil phase,

which did improve the overall condition of the product - no mould,

however after a couple of weeks the product was changing colour with

spots of yellow/brown. Now I am questioning the effectiveness of the

parabene system on protein. But...until I can go back and refer to

my formula and be more forthcoming, I hope all are having a a joyfull

and creative christmas.

P

>

> >Hope someone can advise, who has experience in preventing

molecular and bacterial breakdown in a rich emollient cream that

includes only .4% wheat protein.

>

> Hi ,

>

> I may be able to help you but I have some questions.

>

> 1) What is your compounding procedure? How is your formula made?

>

> 2) What is this " parabene compound " that you are using?

>

> Maurice

>

>

>

>

> --------------------------------------------------------

> Maurice O. Hevey

> Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

> http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

> -------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>As mentioned briefly before, this cream was initially only preserved

>with poly/methyl parabenes in the water phase,with mould developing

>after a few weeks,

,

By themselves, Methylparaben and Propylparaben are not considered to be

effective preservatives. Here are some quotes from the message

archives:

----------------------

>Methylparaben and Propylparaben are weak preservatives that

>have their greatest efficacy against yeasts and molds but little efficacy

>against either gram negative or positive bacteria.

>I have never seen Methylparaben and Propylparaben

>pass a reasonable challenge test. I would not choose these

>preservatives as my sole preservatives for any kind of personal care

>products.

>Personally I have successful challenge test data

>with lotions preserved with the following regarding parabens:

>1. Methyl Paraben 0.15%, with imidazolidinyl urea@ 0.3%

>2. Methyl paraben 0.1%, Propyl Paraben 0.1%, imidazolidinyl urea 0.2%

>3. Phenonip 0.3%, Disodium EDTA 0.1%

>4. Phenonip 0.4%

>5. Methyl paraben 0.15%, Propyl Paraben 0.1% - FAILED CHALLENGE TEST.

>I've been formulating cosmetics for over 35 years and I have NEVER seen

>a lotion or cream " adequately preserved " with just Methylparaben and

>Propylparaben.

----------------------

>then I started to apply Biopein in the oil phase,

>which did improve the overall condition of the product - no mould,

>however after a couple of weeks the product was changing colour with

>spots of yellow/brown.

The antimicrobial ability of certain essential oils has been well

documented in the scientific literature.

If you search MEDLINE through National Library of Medecine's Gateway

http://gateway.nlm.nih.gov/gw/Cmd

for the following search terms:

" essential oils " antimicrobial

you get 196 hits. A little over two years ago, I did the same search

and got 157 hits. Obviously, there is a lot of activity in this area.

I feel confident that Biopein can prevent the growth of certain

microorganisms. But I am not convinced that Biopein is an effective

preservative for persobal care products. The effectiveness of a

preservative system is determined by preservative challenge tests. Has

anyone seen Biopein pass a reasonalbe challenge test? I haven't. If

Biopein could pass a reasonable challenge test, you would thing that

the vendor would publish this information.

With the services of microbiological laboratory, I feel very confident that

you could come up with an effective blend of essential oils that could

be used as an effective preservative system for some types of products.

Here's an interesting article:

-----------------------------

Preservative systems containing essential oils in cosmetic products

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2002, 24, 53-59

Authors: A. M. Maccioni, C. Anchisi, A. Sannay, C. Sarduy and S. Dessi

Dipartimento Farmaco ChimicoTecnologico, Universita' di Cagliari, via

Opedale 72,09124 Cagliari and Dipartimento di Igiene e Sanita'

Pubblica, Universita' di Cagliari, via Porcell 4,09124 Cagliari, Italy

Keywords: cosmetic preparations, essential oils, Eucalyptus globulus,

Laurus nobilis, preservative systems, Salvia officinalis

Synopsis

The aim of this study was to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of

selected essential oils (Laurus nobilis, Eucalyptus globulus and Salvia

officinalis), both alone and in combination, in cosmetic preparations

characterized by an increasing risk of microbial contamination, i.e. an

O/W skin cream, a hydrogel and a nonalcoholic hydrolyte. Their

potential synergistic effect in combination with the usual cosmetic

preservatives at low concentrations (up to 200-fold less than usual)was

also investigated.

-----------------------------

Remeber, just because your cream or lotion looks fine and smells great

does not mean that your cream or lotion is NOT contaminated nor does it

mean that your preservative system is effective. A preservative

efficacy test or challenge test is used to determine the effectiveness

of a preservative system.

Without additional information, I'd say that the discoloration that you

see in your product could be microbial contamination or, maybe, a

stability problem with one of your raw materials.

>Now I am questioning the effectiveness of the

>parabene system on protein. But...until I can go back and refer to

>my formula and be more forthcoming, I hope all are having a a joyfull

>and creative christmas.

Hydroyzed protein is bug food. If your hydrolyzed protein has a high

microbial count and you're adding the contaminated hydrolyzed protein

at low temperatures, you are creating a mixture for disaster.

I think it is a good idea to add hydrolyzed protein to the water phase

and heat to 80C.

>Acknowledging that you are formulating with ingredients

>that can cause microbial contamination is defensive formulating. Like

>defensive driving, you try anticipate a potential problem before it

>occurs. Once the potential problem has been identified, then steps can

>be taken to minimize or eliminate the problem.

>

>When I formulate with hydrolyzed proteins, I acknowledge the fact that

>hydrolyzed proteins are subject to contamination and a potential source

>of contamination. By adding hydrolyzed protein(s) to the formula and

>heating to 80C, I will minimize the potential for microbial

>contamination.

>

>Defensive formulating is also a way of building quality into a product.

> Building quality into a product is cheaper than inspecting the quality

>into a product.

>

>When I formulate a personal care product, I try to take all possible

>steps to maximize stability and minimize contamination. In a way, this

>is like raising children.

>

>And like my children, my formulas will soon leave their home. When I

>complete a formula, there is a very good likelihood that this formula

>will be made several times in several different contract packagers over

>a period of several years. Failure is not an option.

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

Thanks Maurice...sorry it took so long to get back to you with

appreciation. I have created a small batch of the cream which now

includes a preservative system of olidinyl urea, methyl / propyl

paraben and propylen glycol for the water phase and biopein at the

oil phase. Wheat protein has been added to the water phase at

roughly 78 degrees.

I am holding my breath on this one..and will watch the product over

the next couple of weeks, but as you said, looks may deceive and I

will of course once a little more confident, submit for stability and

challenge, but for now..thanks.

New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at 3.28%,

which now incorporates 30% urea. Wheat amino down to .48%. Don't

think I want to go lower than that.

P

>

> >As mentioned briefly before, this cream was initially only

preserved

> >with poly/methyl parabenes in the water phase,with mould

developing

> >after a few weeks,

>

> ,

>

> By themselves, Methylparaben and Propylparaben are not considered

to be

> effective preservatives. Here are some quotes from the message

> archives:

> ----------------------

>> Maurice

>

> --------------------------------------------------------

> Maurice O. Hevey

> Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

> http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

> -------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

Thanks Maurice...sorry it took so long to get back to you with

appreciation. I have created a small batch of the cream which now

includes a preservative system of olidinyl urea, methyl / propyl

paraben and propylen glycol for the water phase and biopein at the

oil phase. Wheat protein has been added to the water phase at

roughly 78 degrees.

I am holding my breath on this one..and will watch the product over

the next couple of weeks, but as you said, looks may deceive and I

will of course once a little more confident, submit for stability and

challenge, but for now..thanks.

New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at 3.28%,

which now incorporates 30% urea. Wheat amino down to .48%. Don't

think I want to go lower than that.

P

>

> >As mentioned briefly before, this cream was initially only

preserved

> >with poly/methyl parabenes in the water phase,with mould

developing

> >after a few weeks,

>

> ,

>

> By themselves, Methylparaben and Propylparaben are not considered

to be

> effective preservatives. Here are some quotes from the message

> archives:

> ----------------------

>> Maurice

>

> --------------------------------------------------------

> Maurice O. Hevey

> Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

> http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

> -------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at 3.28%,

>which now incorporates 30% urea.

I don't understand.

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at 3.28%,

>which now incorporates 30% urea.

I don't understand.

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at 3.28%,

>which now incorporates 30% urea.

I don't understand.

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

Sorry Maurice, should have explained properly....

In the water phase I have applied 1.69% (1.14 % of total formula)of a

preservative system " Unigerm G-2 " . The overall composition of this

preservative is:

olidinyl urea 30%

Methylparaben 11%

Propylparaben 3%

Propylen Glycol 56%

It is the Urea that I have not included in my formula before.

I suspect that perhapse I will need to increase my % of unigerm

preservative in the formula, but I am going to have the product

stability tested with this amount if after a few weeks the

product " appears " superficially at least to be OK.

In the oil phase (after heating) I have included Biopein at 3% which

I hope combined with the performance of Unigerm G-2 at 1.14% will

provide enough performance all up.

What is your opinion on 1.14% preservative..does it have a chance or

is it too low ?

Cheers

P.

>

> >New formulation includes preservative system 1 (as above) at

3.28%,

> >which now incorporates 30% urea.

>

> I don't understand.

>

> --------------------------------------------------------

> Maurice O. Hevey

> Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

> http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

> -------------------------------------------------------