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I've used shea butter by it self but only recently tried to use it in

a formulation. I've made a few other water in oil heavy creams using

Ceteraryl alcohol with no shea butter and had great results. This time

I used BTM-50 from lotioncrafter (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol) and Shea butter together for

the first time and the texture results are strange.

after 2 days it was lumpy and it looks like the cyclomethicone is

separating. It's been hot here and the separation seems to be related

to the heat to some extent (I'll take a separated jar, stir it up and

it stays fine until it gets hot in the afternoon, then starts to separate)

None of my other cream formulations have separated nor do they ever

get lumpy (like and very fine Malto-Meal if you know what I mean.)

I've used the BTM 50 without shea butter and it works great and

nothing separtates.

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Hi,

It's difficult to determine what may actually have caused the emulsion failure

without being able to analyze your complete formulation, but I suspect you

needed more emulsifier for stability. Next time you might try using a

combination of Polawax (Emulsifying Wax NF) and Lotioncrafter BTMS-50 (aka

Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50) and see if your resulting emulsion is more stable.

HTH,

Jen

www.lotioncrafter.com

Shea butter

I've used shea butter by it self but only recently tried to use it in

a formulation. I've made a few other water in oil heavy creams using

Ceteraryl alcohol with no shea butter and had great results. This time

I used BTM-50 from lotioncrafter (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol) and Shea butter together for

the first time and the texture results are strange.

after 2 days it was lumpy and it looks like the cyclomethicone is

separating. It's been hot here and the separation seems to be related

to the heat to some extent (I'll take a separated jar, stir it up and

it stays fine until it gets hot in the afternoon, then starts to separate)

None of my other cream formulations have separated nor do they ever

get lumpy (like and very fine Malto-Meal if you know what I mean.)

I've used the BTM 50 without shea butter and it works great and

nothing separtates.

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Thanks :

After looking at my formulation even I was suprised to see the water

phase so high. I was going for a heavy oil emulsion. The feel over all

is great and I don't want it any thicker - even thinner maybe

Basic formulation is:

Oil phase - 24% (including 9% BTMS 50)

Water phase - 71.04% (17.5 %of that is ionized water - the rest are

ingredients in the water phase.)

Plus cyclomethicone and preservatives for the rest.

When the seaparation of the formula has been stirred, it has the

consistancy of room temeperature butter. It great spreading and feels

great which is what I love about the BTMS 50. However if I add in the

emulsifying wax, it might be too heavy and creamy.

I'm thinking of adding some polysorbate 80 to it and taking out alot

of the water which I didn't really need and keeping the same amount of

BTM 50.

I'll see what I can come up with.

Thanks again -

Mark

>

> Hi,

> It's difficult to determine what may actually have caused the

emulsion failure without being able to analyze your complete

formulation, but I suspect you needed more emulsifier for stability.

Next time you might try using a combination of Polawax (Emulsifying

Wax NF) and Lotioncrafter BTMS-50 (aka Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50) and

see if your resulting emulsion is more stable.

> HTH,

> Jen

> www.lotioncrafter.com

>

>

> Shea butter

>

>

> I've used shea butter by it self but only recently tried to use it in

> a formulation. I've made a few other water in oil heavy creams using

> Ceteraryl alcohol with no shea butter and had great results. This time

> I used BTM-50 from lotioncrafter (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and)

> Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol) and Shea butter together for

> the first time and the texture results are strange.

>

> after 2 days it was lumpy and it looks like the cyclomethicone is

> separating. It's been hot here and the separation seems to be related

> to the heat to some extent (I'll take a separated jar, stir it up and

> it stays fine until it gets hot in the afternoon, then starts to

separate)

>

> None of my other cream formulations have separated nor do they ever

> get lumpy (like and very fine Malto-Meal if you know what I mean.)

> I've used the BTM 50 without shea butter and it works great and

> nothing separtates.

>

>

>

>

>

>

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  • 9 months later...
Guest guest

I use the Shea Butter from Emporium Naturals, it's unrefined and has a mild

nutty scent. I've been using it for years without a problem in scrubs and

whipped butters. Once you refine the shea butter you take out the good stuff.

Lotioncrafter has a product called " Buttereze " - it's an extender for shea

butter and raises the melting point so the whipped butters won't be so prone to

melting in the summer. I'm going to give it a whirl.

www.olaorganics.com

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