Re: Amp reading dropping during rife session - Sylvia

[Guest guest]

Just my two cents here, but 25 minutes seems like a long time at 14 amps.  I usually run mine at 15 or a hair below and only run my machine for 2-3 minutes and let it cool for 15 minutes or more. If your high speed fan kicks in at 4 minutes, that means you are running your machine another 21 minutes and really letting it heat up.  Is your coil pretty hot, mine would be?  Is it turning color? Oh, both and Doug say that it is normal for your amperage to run down after a period of time - I believe it has to do with the coil getting hot and increased resistance?

PS: Sylvia I would love to see a video on this.  I'm also wondering what type of meters we need to check our machine?

 

Hi Sylvia,

 

I have one of 's metal cabinet machines with the panel meter built into the cabinet. I can acheive 15 amps if desired, but told me never to run the machine past 14 amps, and to set it there. I always get a good hum with that setting, and the amplifier fan kicks in at 4 minutes, every time.

 

But lately, when I go to turn off the machine after about 25 minutes, I noticed that the amp reading on the panel meter has dropped to 12 amps during the session. I had it set at 14 amps to start. Can you explain, and possibly offer a solution? That never happened when my rifing sessions were shorter.

 

Thanks,

Jane

Subject: Re: Does anyone run their machine at 15 amps? or WHICH SWITCHES TO USE?

To: Lyme_and_Rife Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 1:58 AM

You got it! If you miss a switch in the first part there, you are subtracting a large amount of capacitance that is needed to achieve resonance, and because you are so way off, you won't hear any hum at all. And if you tried to turn the dial up with those positions, it would just go red on the amp. If you miss a switch in the latter part, you are subtracting smaller and smaller amounts, with P being the tiniest value of all, so you would still hear a hum (a lower hum usually), but theoretically (assuming your switch calculator is still totally on-spot) you are not running it as best as it could be run. If you had a decibel meter, it would show you that it's loudest at resonance (your ear may not pick up slight changes), and also your voltage would be highest at that frequency. But, I don't think your switch calculator is on-spot, as it just needs some tuning now and then. So it could well be that by adding or subtracting a P

switch or even more, you are actually getting closer to where you need to be. I've experimented, without tuning the entire machine, by first adding or subtracting the P, and then going to the O, and working backwards. This can get tricky depending on what switches you are already supposed to have on, of course, so you have to do a little math in your head. 1518 was always touchy for me for some reason--and stopped running at GIL, for example. It was better with P, and better with O, and I wound up with removing the L and adding a J, and then was able to run it at 15 amps again. When I finally tuned it by going through all the measurements and math, it wound up that my new switches were GIJOP (so even more capacitors/switches than I estimated). Today after retuning the machine, 1518 runs at GIKLMNOP perfectly. Since the capacitor values change over time it gets really sticky. I think even the coil may change value some. I'm not sure what the

heating and cooling do over time.This is really fine-tuning, and the values/differences can be quite small. However, when I couldn't run 1518 at 15 amps, or 1.5 volts, and was down to 1.4 or below, then you can see that it really makes a difference.

What I haven't done, but would love to, is experiment with a gauss meter at the different voltages. I'd also really really love to see the effect on bacteria--heck at this point, any bacteria, at different voltages.

>> *Sylvia, I think I understand a bit of what you are saying.

> > For instance if my machine the toggles for 570 are DGHLMOP, you can change> the amps a bit with the higher alphabet toggles?  I've noticed that my coil> will not hummm if I

miss a toggle in the first half, but it will still hummm> if I miss a toggle toward the end - like LMNOP. (These are the fine tunning> toggles -right?)> > I just had my husband go out and look at our circuit breaker.  Some circuits

> are 15 amps, some are 20 and some are more.  So, if you run it above 15 you> could risk blowing  a fuse in your home (not that big of a deal).> > The last few days, I've been trying to coil in less time.  So as soon as my

> coil would heat up, I'd turn off the machine and open the window 4 " and put> the coil half way out the window.  That not only cooled it faster, so I> could coil again, but it cooled it down so I could run it longer.  Hmmmmm,

> the wheels are spinning on this one! Mini-refrigerator?> > I always turn it all the way down, before changing toggles.>

*>------------------------------------If your post is not about electronic devices used in the treatment of Lyme then please put an OT: in the subject line. -------------------------------

[Guest guest]

This happens as the coil heats up/machine runs for some time. I was told power

is being used in producing heat. I'm not sure that is the case, as it starts

producing heat from the first minute. So, at 20 minutes, the coil itself is

warmer. I'm wondering whether there are other changes in values due to the wire

heating up there in the coil.

Just know that it's pretty normal. Like I said, I keep mine consistently at 15

amps/1.5 volts. I'm sure you're getting more time out of your machine then I am.

I also will bump it back up to 15 when it drops due to heating/time.

> >

> > *Sylvia, I think I understand a bit of what you are saying.

> >

> > For instance if my machine the toggles for 570 are DGHLMOP, you can change

> > the amps a bit with the higher alphabet toggles?  I've noticed that my coil

> > will not hummm if I miss a toggle in the first half, but it will still hummm

> > if I miss a toggle toward the end - like LMNOP. (These are the fine tunning

> > toggles -right?)

> >

> > I just had my husband go out and look at our circuit breaker.  Some circuits

> > are 15 amps, some are 20 and some are more.  So, if you run it above 15 you

> > could risk blowing  a fuse in your home (not that big of a deal).

> >

> > The last few days, I've been trying to coil in less time.  So as soon as my

> > coil would heat up, I'd turn off the machine and open the window 4 " and put

> > the coil half way out the window.  That not only cooled it faster, so I

> > could coil again, but it cooled it down so I could run it longer.  Hmmmmm,

> > the wheels are spinning on this one! Mini-refrigerator?

> >

> > I always turn it all the way down, before changing toggles.

> > *

> >

>

>

>

>

> ------------------------------------

>

> If your post is not about electronic devices used in the treatment of Lyme

then please put an OT: in the subject line.

>

> -------------------------------

>

[Guest guest]

Just a standard voltage or multi meter would be fine. A multi meter would check

voltage and other things that you might find useful down the line with the coil

machine, or just to have around the house for other uses.

The thing about measuring AC volts (alternating current voltage) is that

basic/cheapie ones are accurate measuring voltage with 60 Hz (which is what

we're usually running our electric things with) and I believe up to 200 Hertz or

thereabouts. We go well above 200 hertz. You can find some that will be accurate

to a higher frequency and you'll be paying more money for those meters. When

re-designed the machine with the metal cabinet, we could not find a panel

volt-meter that measured voltage at different/higher frequencies accurately.

That's why the current meter replaced the hand-held multi meter the older

machines got. But there was a problem with that volt meter anyway, as it turned

out. It turned out that at about 500-600 hertz, that volt meter started to

under-report the voltage, and the higher you went (for example 832, 1012, 2112),

the more under it was. So say you're running 432 on the older machine. If you

have it at 1.5 volts, it was 1.5 volts. But starting at about 600 hertz, say

you're running 832, it's really at 1.5 volts when the volt meter was telling you

it was 1.35 or 1.4. And the higher the frequency, the more off it was. I know

this for a fact, because I had 3 volt meters hooked up on the machine at the

same time, and watched different readings on all of them. The best meter (most

expensive) was most accurate through the range of frequencies we use. The

cheapest meter was most off, on the low side.

Hope that also made sense, and it's good to know for people who own the older

machine.

Last, to actually just tune the machine, you DON'T need the more expensive meter

that is accurate through a range of frequencies, because you're really just

looking for relative readings, and it doesn't matter that they are absolutely

accurate. In other words, you're looking to see when the voltage increases, and

when it decreases. In terms of cost for the meter, it's not a fortune anyway, so

you might just want the better one.

I know that the Ex-tech meter I have here is fairly good, and I saw it at Radio

Shack online for $50--it's good through a range of frequencies. In the store,

you have to get radio shack's brand, as they carry no other.

I found the same ex-tech meter MN36 on ebay for $39.99 and they sold it to me

for $35 (you can submit a best offer). Then you also have to pay their shipping,

though, but a search at a bunch of online stores yielded no better than a $39.99

price and variable shipping rates.

You'll also want capacitance, which you'd maybe need later on down the line to

check a capacitor. You will also wind up likely with resistance and continuity,

which are pretty basic on a multimeter. Oh, if I didn't mention it, you

definitely want a digital one!

I haven't looked around much at less expensive meters, but I think you can pick

one up for $15 to $20. Just remember what functions you want on there.

> > >

> > > *Sylvia, I think I understand a bit of what you are saying.

> > >

> > > For instance if my machine the toggles for 570 are DGHLMOP, you can

> > change

> > > the amps a bit with the higher alphabet toggles? I've noticed that my

> > coil

> > > will not hummm if I miss a toggle in the first half, but it will still

> > hummm

> > > if I miss a toggle toward the end - like LMNOP. (These are the fine

> > tunning

> > > toggles -right?)

> > >

> > > I just had my husband go out and look at our circuit breaker. Some

> > circuits

> > > are 15 amps, some are 20 and some are more. So, if you run it above 15

> > you

> > > could risk blowing a fuse in your home (not that big of a deal).

> > >

> > > The last few days, I've been trying to coil in less time. So as soon as

> > my

> > > coil would heat up, I'd turn off the machine and open the window 4 " and

> > put

> > > the coil half way out the window. That not only cooled it faster, so I

> > > could coil again, but it cooled it down so I could run it longer.

> > Hmmmmm,

> > > the wheels are spinning on this one! Mini-refrigerator?

> > >

> > > I always turn it all the way down, before changing toggles.

> > > *

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > ------------------------------------

> >

> > If your post is not about electronic devices used in the treatment of Lyme

> > then please put an OT: in the subject line.

> >

> > -------------------------------

> >

[Guest guest]

Be careful, as I recall the hot wire will begin to melt the plastic, and the

plastic will give off fumes which really aren't good for you (they are toxic). I

forget what temperature that occurs at. It's pretty high.

I just really don't know at what point the bacteria start to die. Do they die at

13? Do they die at 12? Do they die at 15? At what point are they not dying, and

they can handle the field? Since I haven't really " seen " anything die yet, I

just don't know and I probably won't be satisfied until I do.

Thanks for the info on the heat.

> > >

> > > *Sylvia, I think I understand a bit of what you are saying.

> > >

> > > For instance if my machine the toggles for 570 are DGHLMOP, you can change

> > > the amps a bit with the higher alphabet toggles?  I've noticed that my

coil

> > > will not hummm if I miss a toggle in the first half, but it will still

hummm

> > > if I miss a toggle toward the end - like LMNOP. (These are the fine

tunning

> > > toggles -right?)

> > >

> > > I just had my husband go out and look at our circuit breaker.  Some

circuits

> > > are 15 amps, some are 20 and some are more.  So, if you run it above 15

you

> > > could risk blowing  a fuse in your home (not that big of a deal).

> > >

> > > The last few days, I've been trying to coil in less time.  So as soon as

my

> > > coil would heat up, I'd turn off the machine and open the window 4 " and

put

> > > the coil half way out the window.  That not only cooled it faster, so I

> > > could coil again, but it cooled it down so I could run it longer.  Hmmmmm,

> > > the wheels are spinning on this one! Mini-refrigerator?

> > >

> > > I always turn it all the way down, before changing toggles.

> > > *

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > ------------------------------------

> >

> > If your post is not about electronic devices used in the treatment of Lyme

then please put an OT: in the subject line.

> >

> > -------------------------------

> >