Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I'd love to learn more about it. What's the name of the company and website? Thanks, Sue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 www.deconsolutions.com _________________________________________________________________ Messenger Café — open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily. Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_AugHMtagline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I decided to google MDF 500 and came across a series of posts on ToxLaw. This is the first post: http://toxlaw.com/chatboards/bldg- supplies/topic12/9.29.05.21.29.44.html You might want to read them and see what people had to say. Sadly, there is no simple fix. We left our home almost 3 1/2 years ago. --- In , " dianebolton52 " <dianebolton@...> wrote: > > Hello everyone: A few weeks ago I read a post here and someone > recommended MDF 300 for laundry to kill mycotoxins, mold etc. Well I > decided to contact the company and it seems they make a product MDF 500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Perhaps May can help with this, but here is some info I found about MDF 500: <http://www.moldnmoredecon.com/msds.html> http://www.moldnmoredecon.com/msds.html Per this article, the claim is " MDF-500 kills all mold, mold by-products, also known as mycotoxins, bacteria and viruses. The documents listed on this page provide both product information from MODEC as well as independent laboratory tests which confirm the efficacy of this specific product and other products produced by MODEC. " However, it is my understanding that DEAD mycotoxins continue to be dangerous to your health, and that the object is to not only kill them, but to REMOVE them as well. A friend of mine in North Carolina was recently advised by a professional remediator to use " Sporicidin " to kill and remove the mycotoxins. Here is the website for more information: http://www.sporicidin.com/mold-feat-disinfectant.htm The protocol is to remove all porous materials from the house (basically you can only leave wood furniture), then spray or fog Sporicidin on all surfaces, including walls and ceilings. After it dries it is essential to remove the residue (which includes the mycotoxins) with wipes. You have to wipe down the wall, the ceilings and the floor. Then I think you also HEPA vacuum the floor. Here is a blurb from the Sporicidin website: " Dust and Spore Suppression Applications: Use SporicidinR Disinfectant Solution to effectively knockdown and suppress airborne dust particles and spores within containment areas prior to final clearance inspection and testing during mold mitigation. Mist SporicidinR Disinfectant Solution into the air within the containment area using a trigger sprayer, pressure sprayer or fogging device in accordance with device manufacturer instructions. Refer to applicable fogging or misting guideline section below for more information. Allow mist or vapor to settle onto surfaces and remain wet for ten minutes. Thoroughly clean and wipe all hard, non-porous surfaces with SporicidinR Disinfectant Solution using clean cloth, sponge or mop (SporicidinR Disinfectant Towelettes [Wipes] are ideal when working in containment areas). Allow surfaces to air dry. " My friend told me that you have to clean EVERYTHING that you bring back into the house. According to the manufacturer you can use the Sporicidin " wipes " to clean items before bringing them back into the house. According to the remediator, upholstered furniture (chairs, couches, mattresses, etc.) must be thrown away. All clothes must be washed before bringing back into the house. My friend still has things in bags waiting to be washed and/or cleaned before he can bring them back in the house. He threw away all of his books (excepting some that were in glass-covered bookcases). Forgot to mention that my friend had to first remove some drywall, repair the roof leaks, fix the crawl space problems and completely replace the HVAC system (including most ductwork). Only after he had repaired the moisture problems was he able to do the final cleanup phase with the Sporicidin. Sorry I don't know much more than that. I do know that he used the ERMI test for mold (per Dr. Shoemaker) through www.Mycometrics.com <http://www.mycometrics.com/> and also used the Remediator that Dr. Shoemaker recommended, who came down from Washington, DC, to make recommendations. He had an extremely high ERMI score, indicating a lot of mold. Sorry, I don't know much more than that. I have asked Harvey to join this list, but he just can't manage any more email. He also has other health issues he is dealing with, plus recovering from mold illness. I don't know anything about MDF 500 but perhaps it is similar to Sporicidin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Diane, Good questions and I applaud you first seeking information about something that gives you hope. I agree with the comments on this post I found on toxlaw.com at http://toxlaw.com/chatboards/bldg- supplies/topic12/10.19.05.14.46.40.html The distributors of the product make many claims that go well beyond what the product can actually do. Please call the manufacturer of the product and not the distributor or salesman and ask them directly. THe answers are far different than what their distributors salesman are selling. Most companies I found while searching for " MDF 500 " also claim it is " safe. " As an EPA registered product it is illegal to claim it is safe. Also, the EPA required label is the law. So read the label (may be booklet sized) carefully. If an application is not listed (like inside air ducts) then it is illegal to use it that way. The labels can be extremely specific. Note that MDF 300 is for laundry. That means the product saturates the clothing for many minutes to do its work. Then it and the " mycotoxin residue " can be well removed by rinsing. MDF 500 is for surfaces which are harder to clean and difficult to obtain similar dwell times with limited rinsing ability. Using it for mold/mycotoxins behind surfaces, like inside walls and ceiling, are still difficult, if not impossible, to sufficiently treat - with no way to rinse away the residue. If anyone has used MDF 500 for mycotoxin issues (as opposed to killing spores) I'd also be interested in their experience. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Hello everyone: A few weeks ago I read a post here and someone > recommended MDF 300 for laundry to kill mycotoxins, mold etc. Well I > decided to contact the company and it seems they make a product MDF 500 > that you can use to remediate your home using foggers and it > supposedly KILLS mycotoxins in the home. I have not lived in my home > for almost three years and I am SO excited about this I can hardly > think. Am I overreacting, does anyhere here know about this product and > have any information you can tell me about it?? Seems like a dream come > true, I know many of you have left your homes. Please, if any of you > are familiar with MDF 500 I would love to hear from you.I do not want > to get too excited until I know for sure wether it will help with my > home. The representative says she knows Dr. Shoemaker. Thanks- Diane > > > > FAIR USE NOTICE: > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I wonder if there is any way to know if Dr Shoemaker knows about their product and thinks it is good. > >Please, if any of you > are familiar with MDF 500 I would love to hear from you.I do not want > to get too excited until I know for sure wether it will help with my > home. The representative says she knows Dr. Shoemaker. Thanks- Diane > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Carl or anyone, have you seen or used the 300 product on store shelves anywhere for laundry?? --- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote: > > Note that MDF 300 is for laundry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Thanks for the ToxLaw link. I thought this post was interesting. Don't know if it is true but interesting: >> MDF - 500 was developed by the US governments Sandia Labs for use to decontaminate Anthrax contaminated buildings. Anthrax is a mold. MDF - 500 breaks into the spores " shell " and breaks everything down to water & oxygen, all the allergens and mycotoxins. All gross contamination is supposed to be removed (drywall w/ mold growing on it, ...) before the MDF - 500 is fogged in the building. It is not supposed to be used to kill major mold growing in a building or to be used as an antimicrobile. It is suppose to be used to decontaminate the secondary mold contaminats (i.e., spores, hyphea, ...)quickly so that a whole HEPA vac & wiping of the contaminated area does not have to be done. --- In , " " <smarshwar@...> wrote: > > I decided to google MDF 500 and came across a series of posts on > ToxLaw. This is the first post: http://toxlaw.com/chatboards/bldg- > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Carl's right. You have to read all the posts there. Anthrax is a bacteria, but there are a couple of people there who said they use the product. > > I decided to google MDF 500 and came across a series of posts on > ToxLaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Pam, MDF is just a commonly used surfactant/detergent called a quaternary ammonium compound (or " quat " for short). One way these compounds kill bacteria and other organisms is by disrupting the cell membrane that protects the cell. Mycotoxins and MVOCs are not alive any more than a brick is, so they cannot be killed. It is possible that the detergent action of quats assist in the removal of many organic compounds (such as mycotoxins and MVOCs) from fabrics, but I do not believe quats would be any more effective than the ordinary laundry detergent or soap that anyone uses to clean clothing,, so why spend the extra money? Quats are also the primary type of chemical in fabric softeners. Exposure to quats can cause allergic sensitization. Sporicidin (another disinfectant) contains phenol and this has an odor that anyone with chemical sensitivities would find VERY objectionable. Since it is not a detergent, Sporicidin will NOT remove mycotoxins or have any effect at all on them. C. May, M.A., CIAQP May Indoor Air Investigations LLC 3 Tolkien Lane Tyngsborough, MA 01879 617-354-1055 www.mayindoorair.com www.myhouseiskillingme.com >Your opinions about MDF 500 please!! >Posted by: " Pamela Gibbard " pqgibbard@... pqgibbard >Date: Sat Aug 25, 2007 6:04 pm ((PDT)) >Perhaps May can help with this, but here is some info I found about >MDF 500: <http://www.moldnmoredecon.com/msds.html> >http://www.moldnmoredecon.com/msds.html Per this article, the claim is > " MDF-500 kills all mold, mold by-products, also known as mycotoxins, >bacteria and viruses. The documents listed on this page provide both >product >information from MODEC as well as independent laboratory tests which >confirm :>the efficacy of this specific product and other products produced by MODEC. " >However, it is my understanding that DEAD mycotoxins continue to be >dangerous to your health, and that the object is to not only kill them, but >to REMOVE them as well. A friend of mine in North Carolina was recently >advised by a professional remediator to use " Sporicidin " to kill and remove >the mycotoxins. Here is the website for more information: >http://www.sporicidin.com/mold-feat-disinfectant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Jeff, thanx so much for your professional clarification on all of this! It is very, very helpful to have your opinion that ordinary laundry detergent is just as effective as this product for fabric cleanup. But I am still confused on the mycotoxin cleanup in my house. I think what my fuzzy brain must have meant was that with mold remediation it is essential to both kill the mold spores so that they don't produce any additional mycotoxins, and also to remove the spores and mycotoxins from the home environment. Is this explanation now accurate? But here is the most important question. Beyond the basics of mold remediation (e.g., repairing any moisture problems, removing any damaged surfaces and visible mold spores, and HEPA vacuuming, which I have done), what product(s) and procedures do you recommend for the final cleanup step? In other words, how do I get rid of any remaining mold spores plus mycotoxins in my house??? Is there a product that can help? If so, how is it used. Thank you for any clarification you can provide on this very confusing situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Beware, the EPA mold scale ERMI is misleading. Please read the truth about it here: http://molddetectionexperts.blogspot.com/2007/08/beware-epa-mold-scale-e\ rmi-is.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Pam, If the remediation is done correctly, there should not be a whole lot of mold spores left. Regardless of how it is done, if there has been significant growth, it is not possible to eliminate or to kill all spores and since there are billions of them, there will always be enough left to start growing again. The trick is to prevent the moisture (leaks, high humidity) from ever again providing the proper conditions for growth. In my opinion, all affected bare wood surfaces should be sealed. This will prevent any residual material left on a surface from ever becoming aerosolized. As I have said before, for people with chemical sensitivities, 50% diluted Elmer's glue can be used instead of paints or other sealants that off gas. No spores or mycotoxins can be aerosolized from a surface that is properly cleaned and sealed. If there are any mycotoxins present in the home, apart from the surfaces where there was actual growth, the only meaningful mycotoxins present would be in the dust, so getting rid of all dust is essential. Don't forget the tops of door and window trim, the insides of electric boxes (outlets, switches, etc.) and light fixtures, the insulation in stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers and other appliances (particularly those with air flows), etc. etc. Use great care around all electrical connections; use only plastic vacuum wands, not metal! turn power off to fixtures, etc. whenever possible.) I do not believe that there are any products that would be more effective than very thorough elimination of all dust. Baseboard convectors have to be taken apart and cleaned of all dust. (The best way to do this is to HEPA vacuum, then blast the fin tubing with steam vapor from a steam vapor machine, using cloth below to catch dust and condensed water. (Operate an exhaust fan to take out any dust that aerosolizes.) Ducts from AC and heating systems can never be completely cleaned of residual dust, but cleaning of an air conveyance system is certainly a step that should be taken. I think that many people are overly concerned about mycotoxins without ever kbowing if any are even involved. Sending off a sample of house dust can certainly give you an idea if mycotoxins are present. If you have hot air heat, you could take all the dust from a dirty filter (or from a HEPA prefilter purifier) or take all the dust from your refrigerator coils (which collect dust from the air). These samples will give you an idea of what you have been breathing. For seeing if it is in your settled dust, you could vacuum carpets and other house dust into a clean bag, then send the bag off for analysis. I believe that Aerotech does mycotoxin analysis of dust samples. Old radiators are also a great source of house dust; purchase a 36 " vacuum crevice tool to get the dust out and into a vacuum bag. For meaningful results, you would probably need at least a quarter cup of dust but check with the lab. The more you can collect, the more likely you are to detect mycotoxins if any are present. In the end, testing may prove too costly since you don't know what mycotoxins to test for and there are many. I have only sent out house dust for testing once. The dust came from the refrigerator coils in a house that had Aspergillus ochraceus growing in the ducts (on dog food!) and a very high level of ochratoxin-A (a mycotoxin from the Aspergillus)in the duct dust. We were lookingg for the presence of this specific mycotoxin and surprisingly, no mycotoxin was detected in the collected dust. Of course, fleecy surfaces (carpets, cushions, dog beds, etc.) that contain residual dust that can never be removed and items such as these will always be suspect. They should be removed from the space and replaced or sealed. For a legal case, I needed evidence from house dust of the prior conditions there. I removed the cover from a dial thermostat (which has significant air flow through it due to the presence of an internal heater) and found a large clump of dust. In the dust, I found (using a microscope) all the evidence I needed for the past presence of pets, mold and paint spraying. C. May, M.A., CIAQP May Indoor Air Investigations LLC 3 Tolkien Lane Tyngsborough, MA 01879 617-354-1055 www.mayindoorair.com www.myhouseiskillingme.com >Re: Your opinions about MDF 500 please!! >Posted by: " Pam Gibbard " pqgibbard@... pqgibbard >Date: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:23 pm ((PDT)) >Jeff, thanx so much for your professional clarification on all of >this! It is very, very helpful to have your opinion that ordinary >laundry detergent is just as effective as this product for fabric >cleanup. >But I am still confused on the mycotoxin cleanup in my house. I think >what my fuzzy brain must have meant was that with mold remediation it >is essential to both kill the mold spores so that they don't produce >any additional mycotoxins, and also to remove the spores and >mycotoxins from the home environment. Is this explanation now >accurate? >But here is the most important question. Beyond the basics of mold >remediation (e.g., repairing any moisture problems, removing any >damaged surfaces and visible mold spores, and HEPA vacuuming, which I >have done), what product(s) and procedures do you recommend for the >final cleanup step? In other words, how do I get rid of any remaining >mold spores plus mycotoxins in my house??? Is there a product that >can help? If so, how is it used. >Thank you for any clarification you can provide on this very >confusing situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Yes, my home had been remediated (2 1/2 years ago) and I'm still getting sick in it. During my initial appointment with Dr. Shoemaker he warned me that WDBs may not be remediated properly and that I might have to move out of my house. He also thought that I would be one of his patients who is likely to recover completely. Since the most recent blood work confirms that I am not getting better, he indicated that the next step is to re-test my house for mold, using the ERMI test through Mycometrics.com. The ERMI test results have been sent to both him and to me, and then I am to have a telephone consultation with him soon to discuss the results. This is still all in process, but I will report back after I talk to him (probably in a couple of weeks). I will respond more about the ERMI test to a later post. --- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: > > Pam, what is happening, has your home been remediated and you're still getting sick in it? > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I will be having a phone conversation with Dr. Shoemaker soon about my ERMI mold test results and remediation. I plan to ask him about both MDF 500, Sporicidin, and whatever recommendations he might have about any further remediation. I will report back on what he says. > > I wonder if there is any way to know if Dr Shoemaker knows about their product and thinks it is good. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Thanx Jeff for all of your help. I do know that some of the things you suggest below were not done, and will undoubtedly have to get taken care of with the next expected remediation go-round. The bare wood surfaces in the crawlspace (where the problem originated) were not cleaned or treated in any way so that undoubtedly should be done. A vapor barrier was put down (and extended 3/4 up the walls but may have to be replaced after the wood is cleaned. I think all the sources of moisure have been corrected, but I think I should have it checked again. Humidity this winter in my bedroom was around 30% but of course shot up in the North Carolina summer. I set the A/C pretty low to keep the RH around 50-55%. To lower it more makes the house way too cold for me. In my case the entire ductwork was damaged (and full of mold) and was completely replaced upstairs and downstairs (except for the intake section). The moldly air was being blown out of the floor vents and was visible on the first floor walls. The professional (who I think was brand new to the field) told me to first fix the ductwork problem, then wash the walls with a bleach solution, and finally repaint the walls with a fungal paint additive. He didn't think the ceiling was a problem so it wasn't cleaned nor repainted. When I asked about the carpet he thought I should just vacuum it well with a HEPA vacuum. Actually, I used a carpet-cleaning powder called Zorb (from Dyson) before HEPA vacuuming. Now I gather that the carpet and pad should have been thrown away. In retrospect, it seems ridiculous to me that the walls would have mold but not the ceiling since the ceiling fans are so helpful in circulate the air. I don't know how well everything was cleaned as I had to hire someone to paint and clean. I do know that the same upholstered furniture (sofas, chairs, mattresses) are still in the house and could be harbouring many spores. After I talk to Dr. Shoemaker about the results of my ERMI mold test results I am thinking that the next step will be to look for a seasoned remediator to inspect the house again (I'm in the Raleigh, NC area). Does anyone have a recommendation of someone local? Hopefully it's just a matter of insuffient cleanup of dust, which I doubt was thorough enough. Guess I'll know more of what to do next after I talk to Dr. Shoemaker. Thanx again for your thorough explanation. > > Pam, > > If the remediation is done correctly, there should not be a whole lot of mold spores left. Regardless of how it is done, if there has been significant growth, it is not possible to eliminate or to kill all spores and since there are billions of them, there will always be enough left to start growing again. The trick is to prevent the moisture (leaks, high humidity) from ever again providing the proper conditions for growth. > > In my opinion, all affected bare wood surfaces should be sealed. This will prevent any residual material left on a surface from ever becoming aerosolized. As I have said before, for people with chemical sensitivities, 50% diluted Elmer's glue can be used instead of paints or other sealants that off gas. No spores or mycotoxins can be aerosolized from a surface that is properly cleaned and sealed. > > If there are any mycotoxins present in the home, apart from the surfaces where there was actual growth, the only meaningful mycotoxins present would be in the dust, so getting rid of all dust is essential. Don't forget the tops of door and window trim, the insides of electric boxes (outlets, switches, etc.) and light fixtures, the insulation in stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers and other appliances (particularly those with air flows), etc. etc. > > Use great care around all electrical connections; use only plastic vacuum wands, not metal! turn power off to fixtures, etc. whenever possible.) > > I do not believe that there are any products that would be more effective than very thorough elimination of all dust. > > Baseboard convectors have to be taken apart and cleaned of all dust. (The best way to do this is to HEPA vacuum, then blast the fin tubing with steam vapor from a steam vapor machine, using cloth below to catch dust and condensed water. (Operate an exhaust fan to take out any dust that aerosolizes.) Ducts from AC and heating systems can never be completely cleaned of residual dust, but cleaning of an air conveyance system is certainly a step that should be taken. > > I think that many people are overly concerned about mycotoxins without ever knowing if any are even involved. Sending off a sample of house dust can certainly give you an idea if mycotoxins are present. If you have hot air heat, you could take all the dust from a dirty filter (or from a HEPA prefilter purifier) or take all the dust from your refrigerator coils (which collect dust from the air). These samples will give you an idea of what you have been breathing. > > For seeing if it is in your settled dust, you could vacuum carpets and other house dust into a clean bag, then send the bag off for analysis. I believe that Aerotech does mycotoxin analysis of dust samples. > > Old radiators are also a great source of house dust; purchase a 36 " vacuum crevice tool to get the dust out and into a vacuum bag. > > For meaningful results, you would probably need at least a quarter cup of dust but check with the lab. The more you can collect, the more likely you are to detect mycotoxins if any are present. > > In the end, testing may prove too costly since you don't know what > mycotoxins to test for and there are many. I have only sent out house dust for testing once. The dust came from the refrigerator coils in a house that had Aspergillus ochraceus growing in the ducts (on dog food!) and a very high level of ochratoxin-A (a mycotoxin from the Aspergillus)in the duct dust. We were lookingg for the presence of this specific mycotoxin and surprisingly, no mycotoxin was detected in the collected dust. > > Of course, fleecy surfaces (carpets, cushions, dog beds, etc.) that contain residual dust that can never be removed and items such as these will always be suspect. They should be removed from the space and replaced or sealed. > > For a legal case, I needed evidence from house dust of the prior conditions there. I removed the cover from a dial thermostat (which has significant air flow through it due to the presence of an internal heater) and found a large clump of dust. In the dust, I found (using a microscope) all the evidence I needed for the past presence of pets, mold and paint spraying. > > C. May, M.A., CIAQP > May Indoor Air Investigations LLC > 3 Tolkien Lane > Tyngsborough, MA 01879 > 617-354-1055 > www.mayindoorair.com > www.myhouseiskillingme.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Pam, I had to seal off my attic from house to prevent any air from seeping down from there into house through any openings in ceiling and walls, and the surprise outcome was that the humidity level in my house dropped by 10%. I used to have two dehumidifiers going full time in my basement and yet I could not get humidity down below the low 50's, but now it is in the low 40's even though I keep the temperatures in the upper 70's, 78-79. **I ALSO put shrink wrap on the windows. This was not to keep outdoor air from coming in but another step to keep air from wall cavities from getting into house. That is because they are old windows that fit loosely in wall and couldn't seal air from wall cavities out of house without covering windows with plastic. The windows have storm windows also. So I cut back on both sources of hot, humid air, those from attic down into house and from outside, but *in my house*. I thought the shrink wrap on windows would make the house hot, just because I associate it with winterizing but found it is just as helpful as in winter. SO, if you want to keep the humidity out and you do NOT have insulating windows, you may try the shrink wrap. Looks a bit odd at this time of year but the indoor air q is more important and huge savings on a/c bills as I had to keep house cooler than I wanted also. --- In , " Pam Gibbard " <pqgibbard@...> wrote: > > Humidity this winter in my bedroom was > around 30% but of course shot up in the North Carolina summer. I set > the A/C pretty low to keep the RH around 50-55%. To lower it more > makes the house way too cold for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 Thanx so much for this feedback - that's very helpful. Since the house is only 19 years old I do have double-glazed windows but I certainly need to have the attic checked (probably the crawl space again also). > > > > Humidity this winter in my bedroom was > > around 30% but of course shot up in the North Carolina summer. I set > > the A/C pretty low to keep the RH around 50-55%. To lower it more > > makes the house way too cold for me. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 I’ve been following the discussions about the MDF500 product and its effectiveness. Our company has been instrumental in its commercialization since 2001. I tell you this to be honest about my bias for the product. The info from Jeff May is accurate, but somewhat incomplete. The origin of the product was initiated by the Dept. of Energy to counter an attack by terrorists on power plants. Sandia Labs developed a broad spectrum decontaminate that was non-toxic, non- corrosive and able to decontaminate not only biological (anthrax, botulism, ect.), but chemical weapons (Sarin gas, VX ect.) as well. The original formulation was a binary product (primarily quats and an 8% solution of hydrogen peroxide (HO3)) delivered as foam. The reformulations used mostly by commercial contractors today are delivered as a fog. The reason the product works so well is that the quats hydrolyze the protein walls of mold and mold spores, then the HO3 disrupts (oxidizes) the nucleic material, killing the mold and rendering the spores incapable of reproduction. The mycotoxins are basically gases (microbial volatile organic compounds (mvoc) that aids mold in digestion of food and protection from other species of mold. The MDF500 is unique in its ability to neutralize these mycotoxins when properly applied. The MDF500 should only be used by persons with experience and proper training in the use of anti-microbials. The product is not a ‘silver bullet” for mold. It should be considered a tool to be used In conjunction with other proven remediation protocols. This said, the proper use by professionals can save a client time and money on most remediation projects. Best regards, Bill Simms, CIAQP VP Operations Innovative Decon Solutions, LLC 813 514-0919 Office 813 514-1064 Fax bsimms@... ssr3351@... wrote: I'd love to learn more about it. What's the name of the company and website? Thanks, Sue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Bill, A couple of comments on your statements. It may have nothing to do with the efficacy of MDF500 but needs to be corrected. There's enough confusion already about the various components of mold biomass. " The mycotoxins are basically gases (microbial volatile organic compounds (mvoc) that aids mold in digestion of food and protection from other species of mold. " Mycotoxins may be molecular like gasses but they are not gasses and are not volatile organic compounds. None of the identified mycotoxins have been categorized as MVOCs. Enzymes, not mycotoxins, are involved with " digesting " food. The " digestion " by the way takes place outside the cell wall because mold doesn't have an internal digestive systems like animals do. The cell oozes enzymes to break down the surface the cell is on. If successful the " digested " substance then moves by osmosis through the cell wall to the inside of the cell. But you are right that mycotoxins are a defense against other molds. " The MDF500 is unique in its ability to neutralize these mycotoxins when properly applied. " I have not heard of that claim before. What is the proper application of MDF 500 for neutralizing mycotoxins? Is it any different than the application for killing mold? Also, because killing mold gains us little, does MDF 500 denature mold so it won't trigger allergic reactions? Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > I’ve been following the discussions about the MDF500 product and its effectiveness. Our company has been instrumental in its commercialization since 2001. I tell you this to be honest about my bias for the product. > The info from Jeff May is accurate, but somewhat incomplete. The origin of the product was initiated by the Dept. of Energy to counter an attack by terrorists on power plants. Sandia Labs developed a broad spectrum decontaminate that was non-toxic, non- corrosive and able to decontaminate not only biological (anthrax, botulism, ect.), > but chemical weapons (Sarin gas, VX ect.) as well. The original formulation was a binary product (primarily quats and an 8% solution of hydrogen peroxide (HO3)) delivered as foam. The reformulations used mostly by commercial contractors today are delivered as a fog. > > The reason the product works so well is that the quats hydrolyze the protein walls of mold and mold spores, then the HO3 disrupts (oxidizes) the nucleic material, killing the mold and rendering the spores incapable of reproduction. The mycotoxins are basically gases (microbial volatile organic compounds (mvoc) that aids mold in digestion of food and protection from other species of mold. The MDF500 is unique in its ability to neutralize these mycotoxins when properly applied. > > The MDF500 should only be used by persons with experience and proper training in the use of anti-microbials. The product is not a ‘silver bullet” for mold. It should be considered a tool to be used In conjunction with other proven remediation protocols. This said, the proper use by professionals can save a client time and money on most remediation projects. > > Best regards, > > Bill Simms, CIAQP > VP Operations > Innovative Decon Solutions, LLC > 813 514-0919 Office > 813 514-1064 Fax > bsimms@... > > > ssr3351@... wrote: > I'd love to learn more about it. What's the name of the company and website? > > Thanks, > Sue > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted August 29, 2007 Report Share Posted August 29, 2007 Bill, Have you tested your product in use against the family of mycotoxins produced by stachybotrys mold? The reason I'm asking is because as I'm sure you are aware, they have proven much more difficult to get rid of. The consnsus here and in advice we have solicited from researchers is that they are much more of a chemical challenge and are much more persistant and resistant to methods that do work with other mycotoxins and biocontaminants like bacteria, etc. Stachybotrys mold ends up producing a sort of greasy film that coats things and to say its difficult to get rid of has to be the understatement of the year.. its EXTREMELY difficult to get rid of.. clothing and other items that have been washed, HEPA vacummned, etc, many times, many times, often retain the ability to cause noticable amounts of inflammation for a long time. Plastics, such as fleece items, car upholstery, and many other things - even more than cotton, seem to hold on to this.. whatever, for much longer than anyone would expect...that been many people here's experience.. To find a product that would truly get rid of that for good would be GREAT.. it wouldn't just be great, it would be a godsend, helping many people recover much faster. So please tell us more specifics especially about how it works on trichothecenes, and how/if/where/when it has been verified to work, how to use it, where we can buy it, pricing, etc. The nuts and bolts of this product.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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