Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Jane Meyerding jotted this down: > The new heating element arrived. It looks like it will plug in. But... Just wanted to say (before I even think about looking up the answer): you probably should make sure the power is " off " to the oven at the circuit breaker before you try to work with it! -- DeGraf ~*~ http://sonic.net/mustang/moggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Sounds like you're almost " there " . 1/4 inch nutdriver (or socket wrench, 1/4 inch). They come in a set, starting with " dollar store item " , and there are good ones for $5 to $30, depending on how many tools you want in the set. If you get the set of separate nutdrivers, this size typically has a red handle. ALSO determine if it is indeed plug-in. The GE system is that way, but you have a Kenmore which is probably made by Whirlpool. Still if there were screw on connectors, the new connectors would probably have new screws. Anticlockwise to unscrew; clockwise to screw in. It is normal for the mounting hardware to not be included, as you described. If you gently remove the element, you should see the wires, or perhaps the element unplugs after unscrewing the flange. If these are slip-on blade connectors, with the wires sort of coming out with the element, then wriggle them while pulling them off of the element blade connectors. Be careful not to lose the wires in the cabinet. already mentioned switching off the fuse. You may wish to get a neighbour to help you or show you how, as many people have done this sort of thing before and would be pleased to help. - s > The new heating element arrived. It looks like it will plug in. > But there is a metal plate that fastens to the rear wall of the > oven. The " arms " of the heating element (with the plugs in the > end) go through the metal plate. The new element has the same > metal plate, but there are no fasteners with it. So I assume I am > to use the same fasteners. Unfortunately, they are not screws > (i.e., there is no slot in which to fit a screw driver). They > must be " nuts. " What kind of tool do I need to remove them? > > Jane > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 P.S., there are some ovens which still require back of oven access despite the access to the flange from inside the oven. No big deal; the 1/4 nut driver will remove those rear panel screws. Also, set the oven to " accept cookies " . " Cookies " are small pieces of food which contain wheat, sugar and flavor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Stan wrote: >If you gently remove the element, you should see the wires, or >perhaps the element unplugs after unscrewing the flange. If >these are slip-on blade connectors, with the wires sort of >coming out with the element, then wriggle them while pulling >them off of the element blade connectors. Be careful not to >lose the wires in the cabinet. Alas, only one wire came out with the old element. :-( I've got a call in to an organization that helps home-owners find people who can fix things. Buying the 1/4 inch nut driver was easy. Thanks for the advice and instructions. Jane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 > Alas, only one wire came out with the old element. :-( It still may be worth opening up the back and having a look. That's consistent with the type which requires opening up the back. - s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Stan wrote: >It still may be worth opening up the back and having a look. >That's consistent with the type which requires opening up the >back. I'm not sure I can get to the back on my own. The range is stuck in between two pieces of counter (with storage cabinets/drawers underneath). I guess I could remove the drawer from the range (the drawer is under the oven) and see if that would give me " purchase, " something to hang on to and haul. Once I got it out, though, I might be stuck with it in the middle of the floor. And I can't shut the cats out of the kitchen, all their stuff is here. Did I mention that I'm afraid to switch the circuit breaker back on because that wire is wandering around loose? That means (of course) that now the burners can't be used either. Well, maybe I'll try dislodging the range and looking at the back. But not tonight. Maybe in the morning. If I feel up to it. Jane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 26, 2005 Report Share Posted May 26, 2005 I wrote: >I'm not sure I can get to the back on my own. Nope. Can't budge it. Jane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 26, 2005 Report Share Posted May 26, 2005 It's fixed! Took the man all of eight minutes, and part of that time he was waiting for me to flip the circuit breaker back on. When I expressed amazed delight, he said, " Well, I've been doing this for 27 years. " He didn't even need to pull the range out, didn't take the back off, just worked through the oven. I'm happy. :-) Jane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 26, 2005 Report Share Posted May 26, 2005 You are cookin'! ~~Bonnie > It's fixed! > I'm happy. :-) __________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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