Re: Hair Cream

[Guest guest]

>I have been playing with formulating hair products and trying out different

ingredients. This is one that I did this week. Can someone please take a look

at this for me:

>

>60% Water

>1% Hydrolized Wheat Protein (Liquid)

>0.1% Tetra. EDTA

>2% Celquat

>1% Structure XL

>2% Stearic

>3% E-wax NF

>20% Coconut Oil 76

>10% Fractionated Coconut Oil

>1% Germaben

>

>Not sure if I like this one too much....seems too waxy....what did I do wrong?

Is that the Structure XL that makes it waxy?

You are " playing " with raw material combinations that I've never used

and in an emulsion system that I never use so I really can't give you

any help or suggestions with this formula.

I have no idea which " Celquat " you are using. There are 4 different

Celquats,

Celquat H-100 (28-6849)

Polyquaternium-4

Celquat L-200 (28-6829)

Polyquaternium-4

Celquat SC-230M (28-6830)

Polyquaternium-10

Celquat SC-240C (28-6804)

Polyquaternium-10

Celquat SC-230 and SC-240C work great in shampoos. But alone, they are not

effective hair conditioners.

An excellent conditioner is Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl

Alcohol, which is sold by The Herbarie under the trade name

" Conditioning Emulsifier " .

Here is an excellent starting formula for a hair conditioner.

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HydroBody Conditioner for Hair

http://www.theherbarie.com/herbarie-formulary.html#HydroBody

This formula offers deep conditioning and adds extra body and bounce to

hair. The mild, cationic conditioning emulsifier imparts excellent wet

comb, spring and body, softness and manageability to hair. Hydrolyzed

Wheat Protein is an exceptional naturally derived complex that offers

unique moisture-balancing and film forming form both hair and skin.

Part A

Distilled Water 83.6% = 418.0 g

Glycerin 6.0% = 30.0 g

Part B

Conditioning Emulsifier 5.0% = 25.0 g

Jojoba Oil 3.0% = 15.0 g

Part C

Germall Plus Liquid 0.4% = 2.0 g

Part D

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 2.0% = 10.0 g

Fragrance (optional)

Total 100.0% = 500.0 grams

Heat Part A to 75C/170F . Combine ingredients of Part B and heat to

75C/170F. Add Part A to B with mixing and cool to 50C/122F (or less).

Add Part D with mixing at 40C/104F.

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Of course, you can modify The Herbarie formula to suit the raw

materials that you may have available.

Part A

Deionized Water = 56%

Glycerin 99% = 6%

Part B

Conditioning Emulsifier = 5%

Fractionated Coconut Oil = 30%

Part C

Germaben II = 1%

Part D

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein = 2%

Another good conditioner is Stearalkonium Chloride. AFAIK,

Stearalkonium Chloride, as a single raw material is not available to

homecrafters. However, you can purchase Incroquat CR Concentrate

((Cetearyl Alcohol (and) PEG-40 Castor Oil (and) Stearalkonium

Chloride) from

http://gardenofwisdom.com/cosmeticrawmaterials.htm

http://www.voyageursoapandcandle.com/store/browse.asp?cat=39 & path=3,347,39

Here's a suggested formula using Incroquat CR Concentrate.

Part A

Deionized Water = 86%

Glycerin 99% = 6%

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein = 1%

Part B

Incroquat CR Concentrate = 6%

Part C

Germaben II = 1%

Now if you really want to play, combine the conditioning benefits of

The Herbarie's Conditioning Emulsifier and Incroquat CR Concentrate.

Maurice

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Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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