Guest guest Posted July 5, 2003 Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 > I wish to create a skin lightening cream but this is my first >time therefore, I very much need your assistance. I'm sure that you know that the FDA considers skin lighteners as an OTC drug and only Hydroquinone is considered to be safe and effective. > In my recipe, I am including >the following ingredients: mulberry(8%), arbutin(5%), kojic acid(3%), magnesium >ascorbyl phosphate(5%), lactic acid(10%), ascorbic acid(1%), avocado >oil(15%), vitamin E(2%), polysorbate 60 and sorbitan stearate(6%), cetyl alcohol(5%), >sorbic acid(0.5%) and distilled water(40%). Yes. This must be a recipe since it doesn't add up to 100%. I've re-written your recipe in terms of grams instead of percent. Mulberry = 8 parts Arbutin = 5 parts Kojic Acid = 3 parts Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate = 5 parts Lactic Acid = 10 parts Ascorbic Acid = 1 parts Avocado Oil = 15 parts Vitamin E = 2 parts Polysorbate 60 = ? parts Sorbitan Stearate = 6 parts Cetyl Alcohol = 5 parts Sorbic Acid = 0.5 parts Distilled Water = 40 parts Total = 100.5 parts > I have 3 questions. > > 1)Since I am adding lactic acid in this cream, is it absolutely >necessary that I add a baking soda neutralizer to maintain a 5.0 or higher pH in >this cream? In the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel's " Final Report On The Safety Assessment Of Glycolic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, and Sodium Glycolates, Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, and Butyl Glycolates, and Lactic Acid, Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, Sodium, and TEA-Lactates, Methyl, Ethyl, Isopropyl, and Butyl Lactates, and Lauryl, Myristyl, And Cetyl Lactates " , they " concluded that Glycolic and Lactic Acid, their common salts and their simple esters, are safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 10%, at final formulation pH 3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection. These ingredients are safe for use in salon products at concentrations 30%, at final formulation pH 3.0, in products designed for brief, discontinuous usefollowed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection " . > 2)Also, I am using the 10% lactic acid as a mild exfoliant as well as >a skin lightener. However, by adding more baking soda in this cream, am I >causing the lactic acid in this cream to be less effective as an exfoliant as >well as a skin lightener(because the pH will be high)? Or does the pH level not >make any difference in how well the lactic acid exfoliates and lightens the >skin? AFAIK, the method or mechanism of exfoliation is not understood and not directly related to pH. > 3)Can I use any type of baking soda as a neutralizer(i.e., including >the baking soda that I buy from the grocery store)? I think Sodium Hydroxide would be a better choice. >I apologize for my many questions but they are all related and I very much >need your help. Thank you and any input would be appreciated. Other things you should know: Ascorbic Acid will not be stable in your formula. You have too much emulsifier. Your recipe is VERY expensive. I have to question the stability of the Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate. My files are in my lab and I'll have to check later. Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 5, 2003 Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 >Other things you should know: I forgot, Sorbic Acid is not an effective preservative by itself. Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 6, 2003 Report Share Posted July 6, 2003 Dear Maurice, thank you very much for your help. However, you mentioned that I have too much emulsifier in my recipe. In my total 125ml cream, 3.2g is sorbitan stearate and 5ml is polysorbate which adds up to about 6.6% of the total. I am also adding cetyl alcohol but I am using this as a thickener. Other than that, I don't believe that I am using any more emulsifiers in my cream. 1)Do I still have too much emulsifier in my cream(i.e., considering that I have only 3.2g sorbitan stearate, 5ml polysorbate 60 and 5.5g cetyl alcohol where cetyl alcohol is used as thickener)? 2)Also, you said that sorbic acid will not be enough as a preservative. Can you please suggest another safe but effective preservative that I can add to my recipe? Thank you again but I would appreciate your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 6, 2003 Report Share Posted July 6, 2003 Dear Maurice, thank you very much for your help. However, you mentioned that I have too much emulsifier in my recipe. In my total 125ml cream, 3.2g is sorbitan stearate and 5ml is polysorbate which adds up to about 6.6% of the total. I am also adding cetyl alcohol but I am using this as a thickener. Other than that, I don't believe that I am using any more emulsifiers in my cream. 1)Do I still have too much emulsifier in my cream(i.e., considering that I have only 3.2g sorbitan stearate, 5ml polysorbate 60 and 5.5g cetyl alcohol where cetyl alcohol is used as thickener)? 2)Also, you said that sorbic acid will not be enough as a preservative. Can you please suggest another safe but effective preservative that I can add to my recipe? Thank you again but I would appreciate your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 6, 2003 Report Share Posted July 6, 2003 >Dear Maurice, thank you very much for your help. However, you mentioned that >I have too much emulsifier in my recipe. In my total 125ml cream, 3.2g is >sorbitan stearate and 5ml is polysorbate which adds up to about 6.6% of the >total. I am also adding cetyl alcohol but I am using this as a thickener. Other >than that, I don't believe that I am using any more emulsifiers in my cream. >In my recipe, I am including >the following ingredients: mulberry(8%), arbutin(5%), kojic acid(3%), magnesium >ascorbyl phosphate(5%), lactic acid(10%), ascorbic acid(1%), avocado >oil(15%), vitamin E(2%), polysorbate 60 and sorbitan stearate(6%), cetyl alcohol(5%), >sorbic acid(0.5%) and distilled water(40%). When you send a recipe to this list, it's a good idea to provide the units of measure. Your recipes appears to be a mixture of volume and weight. > 1)Do I still have too much emulsifier in my cream(i.e., considering >that I have only 3.2g sorbitan stearate, 5ml polysorbate 60 and 5.5g cetyl >alcohol where cetyl alcohol is used as thickener)? Yes. I think that your level of emulsifiers could be reduced and you may want to change the ratio of emulsifiers. If we assume that the density of Polysorbate 60 is 1.08 grams per milliliter, then your recipe uses Sorbitan Stearate = 3.2 grams Polysorbate 60 = 6.48 grams Total = 9.68 grams which is equal to: Sorbitan Stearate = 33.06% Polysorbate 60 = 66.94% Total = 100% 33.06% Sorbitan Stearate and 66.94% Polysorbate 60 will produce a HLB of 11.5 if your oil phase contains Avocado Oil Vitamin E Cetyl Alcohol I suspect that the required HLB of your cream is closer to 7 or 8. > 2)Also, you said that sorbic acid will not be enough as a >preservative. Can you please suggest another safe but effective preservative that I can >add to my recipe? I happen to think that preservatives like, Germaben II (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) Germaben II-E (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) Phenonip (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben) Germall Plus (INCI name: olidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) Liquid Germall Plus (INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) Uniphen P-23 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben) LiquaPar Optima (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben) when used as directed, are quite safe and effective. Lab Rat -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 12, 2003 Report Share Posted July 12, 2003 Dear Maurice, you last said, " 33.06% Sorbitan Stearate and 66.94% Polysorbate 60 will produce a HLB of 11.5 if your oil phase contains Avocado Oil Vitamin E Cetyl Alcohol I suspect that the required HLB of your cream is closer to 7 or 8. " -What % of Sorbitan Stearate and % of Polysorbate 60, will bring my HLB down to 7 or 8?- I am sorry but I am really a novice and am still trying to learn the basics of creating a good skin lotion. I would appreciate your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 13, 2003 Report Share Posted July 13, 2003 Maurice, never mind concerning my last question. I figured out on my own how to calculate the HLB for the emulsifiers. However, I do have a question. You last said, " 33.06% Sorbitan Stearate and 66.94% Polysorbate 60 will produce a HLB of 11.5 if your oil phase contains Avocado Oil Vitamin E Cetyl Alcohol I suspect that the required HLB of your cream is closer to 7 or 8. " -How did you determined the HLB level of the emulsifier in relation to the oils that is used? In other words, how did you come up with the HLB- 7 or 8 number for my recipe?- I would appreciate your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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