Guest guest Posted June 4, 2003 Report Share Posted June 4, 2003 >I have a few questions about the HLB value of: > >Conditioning E-wax (the Herbarie - a combo of Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol) Technically, Behentrimonium Methosulfate is cationic and would not have a HLB. The required HLB of Cetearyl Alcohol is 15.5. >Ewax NF I believe that Emulsifying Wax is Polysorbate 60 and Cetearyl Alcohol. The HLB of Polysorbate 60 is 14.9 and the required HLB of Cetearyl Alcohol is 15.5. >Avocado Butter ( I know avocado oil is 7, would the butter also be 7?) The INCI name for Avocado Butter is Hydrogenated Avocado Oil. I have no idea what the required HLB is. >Kokum Butter Guessing, I'd use ~ 8 >Monoi de Tahiti (the same as fractionated coconut?) I'd use the required HLB for Coconut Oil ~ 8 >Right now my cream formula is coming out around 7.5. If the conditioning ewax is high, I'll have to get something like glyceryl stearate to bring it down. I would go to the Croda USA website and search the formula archives http://www.crodausa.com/formulary.lasso for Incroquat Behenyl TMS. You find several formulas for creams. It looks like the are using emulsifier pairs to match the required HLB of the oils and adding the Incroquat Behenyl TMS right on top. Kinda like a secondary emulsifier. Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 4, 2003 Report Share Posted June 4, 2003 Thanks Maurice! Since I am planning on ordering a few things from Angie anyway, maybe I will also get some glyceryl stearate because the HLB is around 3.8 + or - 1. I do have Polysorbate 20 and 80 with a higher HLB. I was thinking of combining the conditioning ewax with the glyceryl stearate, but I am not sure what the percentage of Cetearyl Alcohol is in the cond. ewax. Well, maybe it wouldn't matter if the Behentrimonium Methosulfate doesn't have an HLB value to even worry about. I just ordered some isopropyl myristate to try, too, and when I plug that into my formula, the HLB is 7.5 if I use 1% of isopropyl myristate. I think I will try 1% to start to see how I like it before I would try more. BTW, I really enjoyed your presentation on Saturday. It was the highlight of the event! Patti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 4, 2003 Report Share Posted June 4, 2003 >Since I am planning on ordering a few things from Angie anyway, maybe I will also get some glyceryl stearate because the HLB is around 3.8 + or - 1. I do have Polysorbate 20 and 80 with a higher HLB. In that case, I would also order some Ceteareth-20 from Angie. This has a HLB of 15.2 and works great with Glyceryl Stearate. > I was thinking of combining the conditioning ewax with the glyceryl stearate, but I am not sure what the percentage of Cetearyl Alcohol is in the cond. ewax. Well, maybe it wouldn't matter if the Behentrimonium Methosulfate doesn't have an HLB value to even worry about. Although Behentrimonium Methosulfate doesn't have an HLB value, it is still a very good emulsifier and outstanding hair conditioner. >I just ordered some isopropyl myristate to try, too, and when I plug that into my formula, the HLB is 7.5 if I use 1% of isopropyl myristate. I think I will try 1% to start to see how I like it before I would try more. Have fun! Maurice -------------------------------------------------------- Maurice O. Hevey Convergent Cosmetics, Inc. http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com ------------------------------------------------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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