Fw: Re: Earthboxes

[Guest guest]

Hey? This is from my friend that has all of the Earthboxes.

ew

First, here's a good link " showing " the steps:

http://www.jennifersanborn.com/2009/02/plant-tomatoes-in-an-earthbox/ .

Here's what I've learned:

I have the original Earthbox and now there is a second generation at least. I

had to assemble everything, so first be sure the filler tube corner hole in the

grate (which keeps the soil above the water) is on the same side as the drainage

hole. The opposite grate hole is for your dirt plug wick. I put a fairly large

black X above the drain hole on the side of the box so I can see it later when

the foliage is thick.

You can only grow 2 tomato plants/box because they are such heavy feeders. So,

the company recommends adding lime or dolomite to the potting mix. I've never

done this, but see no harm in doing so. Fill the EB with water through the water

tube until it runs out the drainage hole (this tells you if you've got the tube

in correctly). Then start filling the EB with soil mix half way up (original

instructions), then water this layer down some. Continue filling to the top and

slightly overfill.

EB has a diagram for where to put the fertilizer depending on the number of

plants; and they tell you the optimal number of plants per box. With 2 plants,

you put your fertilizer (2 C if regular fertilizer and 3 C if organic) in a line

just inside the opposite side of the box from where your plants will be, and on

the same side as the watering tube.

Put on the vinyl baggie (looks like a shower cap) cover (black on one side,

white on the other) with the white side up for Southern California to reflect

the heat. Pick two spots on the planting side (I do about 1/3 in from each short

side) and cut an X carefully with a sharp knife or box cutter. Fold back the 4

flaps, make a hole for your transplant, and insert adjusting the dirt around it

through the hole. Water in the transplant and then fold down the flaps.

Since there are only 2 plants per box, I put the identifying tag (can put date

planted in ink on the back) on opposite short sides. Then when I'm picking, I

know what was planted there.

I've used both the caster/staking system which EB sells as well as a netting

therefor; and I've used tomato cages too, piercing right through the " shower

cap " . The main mistake I've made is not knowing (and still don't) how tall they

will grow, so end up with short plants in EB with the staking system, and tall

plants in the boxes without the EB staking system.

Even with the staking system, I still use plastic-coated rebar stakes (usually 3

evenly spaced across the EB), tied to both the top and middle rung of the

staking system. By the way, the staking system is attached to the caster system

for the boxes, which I had to buy separately. I do not like the netting (or

couldn't figure out how to install it--it is just supposed to hook over the top

corner of the staking system and tie at the bottom of the staking poles, but it

was still too flimsy for me).

I use a green two hole grip clamp to hold the stems in place as they grow. The

bigger hole is for the plant and the smaller hole goes around your stake. Got

some at 99 cent store on Sunday. Originally paid something like $4.95 for can't

remember how many.

The soil in the EB is supposedly good for 5 years (?), but by the 3rd year the

tomatoes are very small even with " refreshing " the soil, plus you must add new

fertilizer each year. A problem is when you have a plant which still shows signs

of life (and I currently have some which are now starting their yellow blossoms

from last year's Fullerton sale) but you've pulled out its buddie. Also by this

time the shower cap has lost its elastic edging but you can't remove it because

of the mature plant. I solved this with large bulldog clips on the four corners.

Make sure every time you water (and once a week is usually not enough) that it

comes out the drainage hole. Norman and I used to alternate. One day he just

kept filling, and filling, and filling until the water had thoroughly soaked the

soil all the way up to the top. Had to dig out as much as possible without

disturbing too many roots. It turned out a spider had built a nest inside the

drainage hole. So every so often use a stick to poke up into the hole. Also, try

not to dislodge the filler tube. I accidentally pulled one up a few inches and

soil fell into the opening making basically a plug at the bottom of the filler

tube which should always be in contact with the bottom water reservoir. I now

have to very slowly water this box until the following growing season and you

can then empty the box and refill after inserting the tube properly.

And, if you have the caster system, watch that you don't trip over its feet as

you go to harvest as they stick out quite a bit.

----

Still eating from your sunflower tray. And still very, very tasty. They are

pretty tall by now.

Have been doing some research in the Gerson Method for treating, particularly

cancer, diseases. They do not allow sprouts because the size at which sprouts

are eaten, the plants have an enzyme inhibitor meant to keep predators away

until the plant gets bigger. They feel it also affects humans by compromising

their enzyme production. I believe they said (am watching a DVD on it) the

inhibitor was there when only one set of leaves were showing. Will let you know

when I absorb more of what they are saying.

Happy Tuesday,

RG