RE: RE: EUXYL K700-Very Long and Technical

July 12, 2001

Pat,

I have copied the monograph from the 7th edition INCI Dictionary for

potassium sorbate below:

POTASSIUM SORBATE

CAS Number(s): 590-00-1

EINECS Number(s):

Empirical Formula:

C6H8O2 . K

Definition: Potassium Sorbate is the organic salt that conforms generally to

the formula: CH3CH=CHCH=CHCOOK

Information Source(s): See note below regarding entries, and links.BPC,

21CFR133, 21CFR150.141, 21CFR150.161, 21CFR166.110, 21CFR182.90,

21CFR182.3640, CIR: JACT-7(6)1988, CTFA S, EEC(VI/1-4), FCC, ITA, JCLS,

JSCI, MAR, MI-12(7841), NF XVIII, TSCA, USAN

Chemical Class(es): Organic Salts

Technical Name(s):

2,4-Hexadienoic Acid, Potassium Salt

Note the definition is a salt and not a fatty acid. It quit being an acid

when it was reacted with potassium hydroxide.

Below I have copied the monograph for tocopherol, the alcohol and the ester

tocopheryl acetate. Note the spelling difference between the alcohol and the

ester.

TOCOPHEROL

CAS Number(s): 59-02-9 (d-alpha); 1406-18-4; 10191-41-0

EINECS Number(s): 200-412-2; 215-798-8; 233-466-0

Empirical Formula:

C29H50O2

Definition: Tocopherol is the organic compound that conforms to the formula:

[structure not available in text format.]

Information Source(s): See note below regarding entries, and links.ARG,

BRA, 21CFR182.3890, 21CFR182.8890, 21CFR184.1890, CTFA S, FCC, ITA, JAN,

JCIC, JCLS, JSCI, JSQI, MAR, MI-12(10159), TSCA, USAN, USD, USP XXIII

Chemical Class(es): Heterocyclic Compounds

Function(s): Antioxidant; Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous;

Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

Reported Product Categories: Lipsticks; Eye Shadows; Foundations;

Moisturizing Preparations; Blushers (All types); Skin Care Preparations,

Misc.; Face Powders; Body and Hand Preparations (Excluding Shaving

Preparations); Hair Conditioners; Makeup Preparations (Not eye), Misc.; Face

and Neck Preparations (Excluding Shaving Preparations); Eye Makeup

Preparations, Misc.; Night Skin Care Preparations; Shampoos (Non-coloring);

Paste Masks (Mud Packs); Tonics, Dressings, and Other Hair Grooming Aids;

Cleansing Products (Cold Creams, Cleansing Lotions, Liquids and Pads);

Makeup Bases; Hair Preparations (Non-coloring), Misc.; Suntan Gels, Creams,

and Liquids; Mascara; Bath Soaps and Detergents; Hair Coloring Preparations,

Misc.; Hair Sprays (Aerosol Fixatives); Eyebrow Pencils; Eyeliners; Shaving

Cream (Aerosol, Brushless and Lather); Suntan Preparations, Misc.; Powders

(g and Talcum, Excluding Aftershave Talcs); Personal Cleanliness

Products, Misc.; Indoor Tanning Preparations; Depilatories; Bath Oils,

Tablets, and Salts; Fragrance Preparations, Misc.; Aftershave Lotions; Skin

Fresheners; Eye Lotions

Technical Name(s):

D-Alpha Tocopherol

3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-Tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-Trimethyltridecyl)-2H-1-Benzopyran

-6-ol

2H-1-Benzopyran-6-ol,

3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-Tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-Trimethyltridecyl)-

Mixed Tocopherols

Natural Vitamin E

DL-a-Tocopherol

Vitamin E

Trade Name(s):

dl-alpha-Tocopherol (BASF)

component of Oxynex LM (Merck KGaA)

Copherol F-1300 (Henkel)

Covi-ox T-50 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covi-ox T-70 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covi-ox T-30P (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covipherol T-75 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covitol F-600 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covitol F-1000 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covitol F-350M (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covitol 80/20M (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Eastman Vitamin E (Eastman Chemical)

Jeen Vitamin E (Jeen)

Plantazyme Phase II (Coletica/Bioetica, Inc.)

Tenox GT-1 (Eastman Chemical)

Tenox GT-2 (Eastman Chemical)

Tocopherol 80 (Nissan)

DL-alpha-Tocopherol (Rona/EM Industries)

Vitamin E 5-87 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E No. 60525 (Roche)

Trade Name Mixture(s):

Anti-Wrinkle Complex MU 3664 (Laboratoire MU)

Arnicaflower Oil PANAROM (Novarom)

Arnica Oil CLR (Kurt Richter)

ASC III (Rona/EM Industries)

ASC III (Art. No. 10154) (Merck KGaA)

Balm Mint Oil infus. (Novarom)

Biobranil Watersoluble 2/012600 (Dragoco)

Bio-Oil GLA-10 ()

Brookosome ACEBC ()

Calendula Oil CLR (Kurt Richter)

Calendula Oil MONAROM (Novarom)

Carrot Oil CLR (Kurt Richter)

Carrot Oil, Extra (Novarom)

Controx KS (Grunau)

Controx VP (Grunau)

Crodarom Calendula O (Croda, Inc.)

Crodarom Carrot O (Croda, Inc.)

Cutavit Richter (Kurt Richter)

Derma-Vitamincomplex, Oil Soluble (Novarom)

EFA-Glycerides ()

EFA-Plex ()

EFA-Plexsol ()

Eticerav (Coletica/Bioetica, Inc.)

Horse Spinalcord Extract in oil (Paninkret)

Hypericum Oil CLR (Kurt Richter)

Lipodermol (Serobiologiques)

Lipotrophyne-A (Vevy)

Melaclear (Sederma)

Omega-6 Oil-10 (Roche)

Omega-6 Oil-25 (Roche)

Oxynex K Liquid (Rona/EM Industries)

Oxynex L Liquid (Merck KGaA)

Oxynex LM (Rona/EM Industries)

Solar Boost (Collaborative Labs.)

Soluvit Richter (Kurt Richter)

TEGO Deo HY 77 (Grillo-Werke)

Tocomix D (Jan Dekker)

Tocopheroloil (Novarom)

Tocopherol Oil CLR 0.4% Tocopherol (Kurt Richter)

Toshiki SP-565-41 Red (Nikko)

Unipherol U-14 (Induchem)

Veghydra (Solabia)

Vitamin E 4-50 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E 4-80 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E 5-40 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E 5-67 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E 6-40 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin Extract AEFH' Water Soluble (Novarom)

Vitamin Extract AEF, Oil Soluble (Novarom)

Vitaminextract VC, Oil Soluble (Novarom)

Vitaminextract VC, Water Soluble (Novarom)

Vitamin F free acid (Novarom)

Vitaplant CLR oil-soluble N (Kurt Richter)

Vitasol, Vitamin-Horsechestnut-Complex (Novarom)

VYOX (Vevy)

Wheat Germ Oil PANAROM (Novarom)

Below is the monograph for the ester:

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

CAS Number(s): 7695-91-2

EINECS Number(s): 231-710-0

Empirical Formula:

C31H52O3

Definition: Tocopheryl Acetate is the ester of Tocopherol (q.v.) and acetic

acid.

Information Source(s): See note below regarding entries, and links.AUS,

21CFR182.8892, CZE, DA, DDR, EGY, FCC, HUN, ITA, JAN, JCIC, JCLS, JSCI,

MI-12(10160), PN, TSCA, USAN, USD, USP XXIII

Chemical Class(es): Esters ; Heterocyclic Compounds

Function(s): Antioxidant; Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous

Reported Product Categories: Moisturizing Preparations; Bath Soaps and

Detergents; Body and Hand Preparations (Excluding Shaving Preparations);

Hair Sprays (Aerosol Fixatives); Skin Care Preparations, Misc.; Eye Makeup

Preparations, Misc.; Aftershave Lotions; Indoor Tanning Preparations;

Fragrance Preparations, Misc.; Nail Polish and Enamels; Manicuring

Preparations, Misc.; Tonics, Dressings, and Other Hair Grooming Aids; Face

Powders; Powders (g and Talcum, Excluding Aftershave Talcs); Mascara;

Basecoats and Undercoats; Night Skin Care Preparations; Suntan Preparations,

Misc.; Makeup Preparations (Not eye), Misc.; Cleansing Products (Cold

Creams, Cleansing Lotions, Liquids and Pads); Eyeliners; Lipsticks;

Foundations; Personal Cleanliness Products, Misc.; Hair Conditioners; Makeup

Bases; Bath Oils, Tablets, and Salts; Permanent Waves; Shampoos

(Non-coloring); Face and Neck Preparations (Excluding Shaving Preparations);

Bubble Baths; Cuticle Softeners; Skin Fresheners; Shaving Cream (Aerosol,

Brushless and Lather); Colognes and Toilet Waters; Blushers (All types);

Suntan Gels, Creams, and Liquids; Hair Preparations (Non-coloring), Misc.;

Paste Masks (Mud Packs); Shaving Preparations, Misc.; Eye Shadows; Bath

Preparations, Misc.; Eye Lotions; Hair Rinses (Non-coloring); Baby Lotions,

Oils, Powders and Creams

Technical Name(s):

D-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate

DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate

3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-Tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-Trimethyltridecyl-2H-Benzopyran-6-

ol, Acetate

2H-1-Benzopyran-6-ol,

3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-Tetramethyl-2-(4,8,12-Trimethyltridecyl)-, Acetate

D-a-Tocopheryl Acetate

DL-a-Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E Acetate

Trade Name(s):

Copherol 1250 (Henkel)

Copherol 1250 (Henkel/COSPHA)

Covitol 1100 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Covitol 1360 (Henkel/Fine Chemicals)

Eastman Vitamin E Acetate (Eastman Chemical)

DL-alpha-Tocopherol Acetate (Rona/EM Industries)

Tri-K Vitamin E Acetate, USP (Tri-K)

Univit-E Acetate (Universal Preserv-A-Chem)

Vitamin E 6-100 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E 700 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin E Acetate (BASF)

Vitamin E Acetate (Protameen)

Vitamin E Acetate-C (BASF)

Vitamin E Acetate, Cosmetic Grade, No. 60574 (Roche)

Vitamin E Acetate USP, FCC No. 60526 (Roche)

Trade Name Mixture(s):

AFR LS (Serobiologiques)

A.F.R./Veg. (Serobiologiques)

Antioxidant G-2 (Provital/Centerchem)

Brookosome ACE ()

Brookosome ACEBC Concentrate ()

Brookosome E ()

Brookosome EFA ()

Brookosome ELL ()

Crodasome A/E (Croda, Inc.)

Crodasome UV-A/B (Croda, Inc.)

C-S Complex (Lipo)

Dermasome-E (ChemMark)

Destressine 2000 (Sederma)

Dexol A (Collaborative Labs.)

Dragovit F 2/927720 (Dragoco)

Elesponge OLEO-AFR (Serobiologiques)

Elesponge Vitamine E (Serobiologiques)

Epiderm-Complex O (Cosmetochem)

Facteur Arl (Wackherr)

Firming Liposomes (Collaborative Labs.)

Lanastime (Lanatech)

L.C.R.E. (Kolmar)

Lipodermol Veg (Serobiologiques)

Lipofacteur Vitentiel (Wackherr)

Maysome EA (Maybrook)

Micasomes AE (Collaborative Labs.)

Micasomes DM (Collaborative Labs.)

Microderm AE (Zehentmayer)

Moisturizing Liposomes (Collaborative Labs.)

Nanocos E-72 (Induchem)

Nikkol Aquasome EC-5 (Nikko)

Nikkol Aquasome VE (Nikko)

Oleo-AFR (Serobiologiques)

Questamix H (Quest)

Rovisome ACE (Rovi)

Rovisome CE (Rovi)

Sunscreen Liposomes (Collaborative Labs.)

Ultraspheres-5001 (Lipoid)

Ultraspheres-5012 (Lipoid)

Ultraspheres-5014 (Lipoid)

Ultraspheres-5411 (Lipoid)

Viatmin E 6-81 (Eastman Chemical)

Vitamin A & E Liposomes (Collaborative Labs.)

Vitamin C & E Liposomes (Collaborative Labs.)

Vitamin E Acetate Lipomicron (Sederma)

Vitaphyle ACE (Wackherr)

Below is the initial paragraph from the INCI Dictionary describing how

materials are named.

F. Nomenclature Conventions

In addition to INCI names assigned using the following conventions, this

Dictionary and Handbook incorporates nomenclature derived from a variety of

sources, including the United States Pharmacopeia (USP), the National

Formulary (NF), the Food Chemicals Codex (FCC), the Merck Index (MI), the

U.S. Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), the USP Dictionary of United States

Adopted Names (USAN) and International Drug Names, and the Colour Index

(CI). Since cosmetics are distinct from foods and drugs, certain

modifications in nomenclature are necessary to develop a uniform

science-based system for naming cosmetic ingredients. The conventions used

for this system are as follows:

1. Specific names previously used in the United States Pharmacopeia (USP),

National Formulary (NF), and the Food Chemicals Codex (FCC) are retained in

most cases.

Burt's Bees is not a recognized source for ingredient nomenclature. If the

information Trina has provided is an exact copy of the ingredient listing

from Burt's Bees then they too are incorrect in describing the tocopherol

acetate since the correct nomenclature for an ester is the alcohol stem

changes from 'ol' to 'yl' and 'ate' is added to the stem for the acid.

Trina, please tell Bill this convention goes back to IUPAC.

Based on this information perhaps Bill will correct his " copyrighted "

material.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

RE: EUXYL K700

Per Trina's request I am posting this to the list as it came to my mailbox

only. I will try to answer it later tonight or tomorrow.

Hello Pat,

Am I correct in assuming this email was sent to me privately? If not, please

feel free to post this response to your list. When I click on the " reply "

button, my email program only ever puts your email address in the to: field.

I will forgo the pH issue as it seems resolved?

In re: dendritic salt. How can you possibly know how much I pay per pound

for this product? How can you possibly know what my profit margins are or

what they need to be?

In re: potassium sorbate. If we ever said we were selling a product that was

from mountain laurel, then we were. If we began purchasing from a different

source, we changed the description. We are currently purchasing from a US

source. Here is how our description reads at our website:

" Potassium sorbate, a fatty acid, has well-demonstrated anti-fungal

and anti-microbial properties in both the food and cosmetic industries.

FDA regards K Sorbate as GRAS (Generally Regarded as Safe)... "

I was not privy to any written correspondence you have had with Bill re: ROE

and tocopherols or tocopherol acetate. If he did not respond to you, he may

have felt as I do now -- as though I am the Guest of Honor at a witch hunt.

I can not say for sure why he hasn't responded to you, though, Pat. You

probably know better than I do. Regardless, I can only assume you are

referring to something Bill speaks to at the

www.snowdriftfarm.com/askthechemist.html page in re: ROE and tocopherol

acetate? I am unsure if you mean there is no such thing as tocopherol

acetate, or if you think tocopherol acetate is an emulsion enhancer.

Like you, I am no chemist. But a quick look in the Merck Index should

resolve any issues you may have re: tocopherol acetate. According to the

Merck, 12th edition, p. 10159

" Vitamin E Acetate....alpha tocopherol acetate....C31 H52 O3 ....

practically insoluble in water. Freely soluble in chloroform & ether. Less

readily soluble in alc. Unlike the free vitamins, the acetate is practically

unaffected by the oxiding influence of air, light and UV light... "

In case you were unconvinced or uncertain about its use in skin care

products, here is an ingredients list from our friends at Burt's Bees. They

use it in their " Wings of Love " product line, along with rosemary extract:

" Ingredients - Sunflower oil, castor oil, beeswax, coconut oil, candelilla

wax, lanolin, cocoa butter, tocopherol acetate and tocopherol (vitamin E),

peppermint oil, carnauba wax, comfrey root extract, rosemary extract. May

contain: iron oxide, mica, carmine, titanium dioxide. 100% Natural "

As far as reprinting all or part of our newsletter, you can certainly join

our Cosmetic Quarterly Newsletter and read it all firsthand for yourself.

The reason I mentioned the copyright, Pat, is because the intellectual

property belongs to Bill. Not me. Not you. If you want to reprint, you might

try asking Bill. At the very least, it would show your heart was in the

right place. And I can not tell you what Bill might say in response, if you

were to make such a request. If you'd care to write to him, he can be

reached at mailto:bill@....

I have no issue with your striving for answers to your questions about

cosmetic chemistry. I applaude your efforts, Pat. Please remember there is

usually more than one way to get from Point A to Point B. Bill is a research

chemist. He enjoys experimentation. He enjoys finding alternate routes. If

there truly exists only one way from Point A to Point B, Bill will try to

find another option.

In re: Mr. Young. All I can say is I am underwhelmed by your portrait of Mr.

Young as an innocent bystander. You mention in your email that Mr. Young is

" usually correct unless he misunderstands the question. " I feel the same way

about Bill.

Sincerely,

Trina Wallace

Pat.

Peace, Joy, Serenity

House of Scents tm. Body Oils, Fragrance Oils, Incense, Candles, Soap, Etc.

pat@...

www.houseofscents.com/

www.yourhealthandbody.com

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URL to this page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo

July 12, 2001

I think if I click on " reply to all " it works a whole lot better :-)

Young:

>>Burt's Bees is not a recognized source for ingredient nomenclature. If the

information Trina has provided is an exact copy of the ingredient listing

from Burt's Bees then they too are incorrect in describing the tocopherol

acetate since the correct nomenclature for an ester is the alcohol stem

changes from 'ol' to 'yl' and 'ate' is added to the stem for the acid.

Trina, please tell Bill this convention goes back to IUPAC.

Based on this information perhaps Bill will correct his " copyrighted "

material.<<

OK , I'll be sure to tell Bill that the " ol " should be an " yl " . And

Roxanne, too, next time I see her. And the editors of the Merck Index,

too...

Cheers,