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Hello

I wonder if someone would be able to shed some light on this lotion ingredient

list for me.

The ingredients are listed as follows:

Water; Extracts of Arnica, Hypericum & Calendula in Canola oil with

Naturox(anti-oxidant), Peppermint oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Glycerol stearate &

PEG100 stearate, Beeswax, Glycerin, Propyl paraben, Methyl Paraben.

OK now I know what the methyl and Propyl parabens are, but what are the Cetearyl

alcohol , glycerol stearate and PEG100 stearate used for in this lotion. I hope

this hasn't been covered before, I did go through the archives and found any

references to these a bit confusing. Would one of our generous chemists please

explain them to me in some detail. I don't mind if they prefer to do it off

list if this has been covered, or if they can give me some indication of what

the topic of discussion was where they previously discussed it or approximate

date PLEASE!

I made up some lotion yesterday, but after some discussion with a collegue think

they are right and the ewax (croda's ) is the reason for it being so oily. I

really want to avoid that feel if possible. Is this why they are using the

ingredients above, in order to not have to use ewax? PS the ewax Croda supplied

was called " Crodex "

Thank you so much for any and all assistance.

Debs

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>I made up some lotion yesterday, but after some discussion with a collegue

>think they are right and the ewax (croda's ) is the reason for it being so

>oily. I really want to avoid that feel if possible. Is this why they are

>using the ingredients above, in order to not have to use ewax? PS the ewax

>Croda supplied was called " Crodex "

Never heard of Crodex, and there's no such beast in Croda's catalogue, so

perhaps you are right and you are using something totally different. One of

the mystery " e waxes " perhaps. If you were using Polawax though, it's not

the culprit. It's more likely your oil percentage is too high or maybe some

other ingredient in your formulation. Polawax doesn't make emulsions feel

greasy at all. And if you use too much I still don't think it would do

that, it would just make the product very thick. I compared a lotion made

with polawax to one made with similar ingredients to what you mentioned,

and I found the feel the same, not greasy at all.

Perhaps if you post your lotion formula the list can help determine why

it's so oily.

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>Hello

>I wonder if someone would be able to shed some light on this lotion ingredient

list for me.

>

>The ingredients are listed as follows:

>Water; Extracts of Arnica, Hypericum & Calendula in Canola oil with

Naturox(anti-oxidant), Peppermint oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Glycerol stearate &

PEG100 stearate, Beeswax, Glycerin, Propyl paraben, Methyl Paraben.

>

>OK now I know what the methyl and Propyl parabens are, but what are the

Cetearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate and PEG100 stearate used for in this lotion.

First, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate is an emulsifier blend

that is found in many emulsions. It is very similar to Emulsifying Wax

NF in performance and purpose but it is not Emulsifying Wax NF. The

Cetearyl Alcohol helps to thicken and should be considered part of the

emulsifying system.

Besides not being a valid ingredient list for a personal care product,

the most interesting thing about this list of ingredients is Naturox.

Naturox is a " a synergistic blend of natural mixed tocopherols and

rosemary extract, natural citric acid chelator, and mono- and

diglycerides for effective dispersion. "

http://www.kemin.com/technical/natural-antioxidant.pdf

> I hope this hasn't been covered before, I did go through the archives and

found any references to these a bit confusing. Would one of our generous

chemists please explain them to me in some detail. I don't mind if they prefer

to do it off list if this has been covered, or if they can give me some

indication of what the topic of discussion was where they previously discussed

it or approximate date PLEASE!

I don't recall this being discussed before.

>I made up some lotion yesterday, but after some discussion with a collegue

think they are right and the ewax (croda's ) is the reason for it being so oily.

Not true.

>I really want to avoid that feel if possible. Is this why they are using the

ingredients above, in order to not have to use ewax?

What does your formula look like?

>PS the ewax Croda supplied was called " Crodex "

There are several " Crodex " raw materials sold by Croda and none of them

are Emulsifying Wax NF or Polawax. The closest would be Crodex N which

is Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20.

Maurice

------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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Hi Maurice, thnak you sooo much for your reply!

Ok so in short they are using Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate as the

emulsifier instead of an ewax, right.

then they are adding to that Ceteryl alcohol (in place of stearic acid?) to

thicken the lotion.

Instead of citric acid they are using Naturox.

Am I following you? lol

The ewax Croda supplied me with is called

Cordex A (PAST)

EM1424025UK

<What does your formula look like?>

this was the formula:

150g cocobutter

150g Grapeseed Oil

30g Glycerin

30g Crodex A

30g Stearic Acid

2.5g Cirtic Acid

600g water

Do you think the cocobutter is too high

They suppleid me with the following as preservative for this lotion.

ABIOL/IMIDAZOLDINYL

METHYL PARABEN

PROPYL PARABEN

But no info as to what percentage of each (if all) need to be added. From

past posts I see that both the Methyl paraben and propyl paraben need to be

included, but also noticed that most time s either you or recommended

adding germall (could have been Germaben?) also.

What do you suggest?

Many thanks again REALLY! for all the assistance.

Debs

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Deb

Considering that close to 40% of your formula is fats and oils you can't

help but to have an oily feeling product. Additionally, you probably do need

the citric acid either unless you know what the pH of your product is and is

supposed to be. You may want to increase the Crodex A to as much as 5% and

use cetyl alcohol instead of stearic acid to help thicken your formula. Try

reducing the oils to 15%. You can always add talc to the formula to fill in

for some of the deleted oils. Should you find that you need to thicken this

formula you can use hydroxyethylcellulose like Natrosol 250 HR or Natrosol

250 HHR at 0.50-1.00%. The HHR grade has a higher viscosity than the HR

grade. Too much Natrosol will make the product snotty looking or slimy

feeling.

In time, you will find that most commercial creams and lotions minimize the

amount of the oils and lipidic ingredients and will use water

soluble/dispersible ingredients where possible to thicken the products. They

are more efficient thickeners and do not leave the product feeling heavy or

oily. Remember a little bit of oil will go a long way in a product.

Regarding the use of Germaben II, Maurice and I recommend this material

because it is easy to use and is a synergistic blend of parabens with

diazolidinyl urea. Another preservative that I recommend is Phenonip, which

is phenoxyethanol with parabens. Both of these are very good preservative

systems for topical products.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: Ingredient list

Hi Maurice, thnak you sooo much for your reply!

Ok so in short they are using Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate as

the emulsifier instead of an ewax, right.

then they are adding to that Ceteryl alcohol (in place of stearic acid?) to

thicken the lotion.

Instead of citric acid they are using Naturox.

Am I following you? lol

The ewax Croda supplied me with is called

Cordex A (PAST)

EM1424025UK

<What does your formula look like?>

this was the formula:

150g cocobutter

150g Grapeseed Oil

30g Glycerin

30g Crodex A

30g Stearic Acid

2.5g Cirtic Acid

600g water

Do you think the cocobutter is too high

They suppleid me with the following as preservative for this lotion.

ABIOL/IMIDAZOLDINYL

METHYL PARABEN

PROPYL PARABEN

But no info as to what percentage of each (if all) need to be added. From

past posts I see that both the Methyl paraben and propyl paraben need to be

included, but also noticed that most time s either you or recommended

adding germall (could have been Germaben?) also.

What do you suggest?

Many thanks again REALLY! for all the assistance.

Debs

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Thanks for the reply. I will reduce the oils and try as you suggested :-)

Could you maybe shed soem light on what the ABIOL/IMIDAZOLIDINYL that Croda sent

me is for ;-)

Thanks

Debs

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> Thanks for the reply. I will reduce the oils and try as you

suggested :-)

>

> Could you maybe shed soem light on what the ABIOL/IMIDAZOLIDINYL

that Croda sent me is for ;-)

>

The INCI name for Abiol is Imidazolidinyl Urea which is the same as

Germall 115.

For information on Germall 115, go to:

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

The INCI name for Crodex A is Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Lauryl

Sulfate.

Just curious, where do you live? UK??

Maurice

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Deb,

Before there was diazolidinyl urea there was imidazolidinyl urea. This was

known as Germall 115 from Sutton Labs. In the early 1980s Germall II,

olidinyl urea was launched. It is just another preservative that is now

generically available.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: Ingredient list

Thanks for the reply. I will reduce the oils and try as you suggested

:-)

Could you maybe shed soem light on what the ABIOL/IMIDAZOLIDINYL that Croda

sent me is for ;-)

Thanks

Debs

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HI Maurice, No South Africa, Cape Town Pouring with rain freezing my buns off

Cape Town today lol.

Thanks for all the info I am off to peek there now :-)

Debs

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Maurice that site is fantastic, THANK YOU!

I found all I needed to know and more lol. I am still there but had to say

thanks quickly.

Just two silly questions, they refer to creams and lotions as seperate items,

with seperate typical usae levels of germall 115 and the parabens, why do they

distinguish between the two? What differentiates a cream from a lotion other

than thickness?

And what exactly is a gram-negative bateria, if it's not to silly ;-)

Debs

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

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Deb,

Gram negative bacteria are those that do not take up the Gram stain when

typing bacteria. Examples of Gram - are Pseudomonads and Staph. These are

generally your pathogens.

Young

KY Labs

Innovators of Fine Personal Care Products

www.kylabs.com

Re: Re: Ingredient list

Maurice that site is fantastic, THANK YOU!

I found all I needed to know and more lol. I am still there but had to

say thanks quickly.

Just two silly questions, they refer to creams and lotions as seperate

items, with seperate typical usae levels of germall 115 and the parabens,

why do they distinguish between the two? What differentiates a cream from a

lotion other than thickness?

And what exactly is a gram-negative bateria, if it's not to silly ;-)

Debs

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

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Looks like I need to go back to school lol. Completely over my head VBG.

Where online if anywhere, can I research things like the gram negative bacteria

and find info on these " technical terms " lol.

Thank you again for all your help Both of you!

Debs

Re: Re: Ingredient list

Maurice that site is fantastic, THANK YOU!

I found all I needed to know and more lol. I am still there but had to

say thanks quickly.

Just two silly questions, they refer to creams and lotions as seperate

items, with seperate typical usae levels of germall 115 and the parabens,

why do they distinguish between the two? What differentiates a cream from a

lotion other than thickness?

And what exactly is a gram-negative bateria, if it's not to silly ;-)

Debs

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

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Debbie, if you have the seperate preservative rather than a blend, we

have used the following for years without problems

0.30% Abiol, 0.15% Methyl Paraben and 0.1% Propyl Paraben, with oil

phases between 10 and 20%.

Dave Eastham

> Debs

> Re: Re: Ingredient list

>

> Maurice that site is fantastic, THANK YOU!

> I found all I needed to know and more lol. I am still there

but had to

> say thanks quickly.

>

> Just two silly questions, they refer to creams and lotions as

seperate

> items, with seperate typical usae levels of germall 115 and the

parabens,

> why do they distinguish between the two? What differentiates a

cream from a

> lotion other than thickness?

> And what exactly is a gram-negative bateria, if it's not to

silly ;-)

>

> Debs

> http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

>

>

>

>

>

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