Fw: a newbie with so many questions about lotions, preservatives etc.

[Guest guest]

Re: a newbie with so many questions about lotions,

preservatives etc.

> I love reading your posts Maurice.

>

> CS

>

>

> > There are many natural ingredients that have antimicrobial activity. I

> suggest that you search the message archives for " natural preservative "

> (without the quotation marks

> > ( " " ). Being a newbie, you should spend some time familiarizing yourself

> the some basic concepts is preservation.

> >

> > You can visit the CosmeticInfo files area and go into the

> preservative_Info folder:

> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/files/Preservative_Info/

> >

> > Pay particular attention to this file:

> >

>

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/files/Preservative_Info/Principle

> s%20of%20Preservation.pdf

> >

> > > I need to know the name of the preservatives how to use it

> >

> > Here are links to popular (not natural) preservative systems:

> >

> > Phenonip

> > http://www.nipa.com/products/pheno.htm

> >

> > Germall II, Germall 115, Germaben II, Germaben II-E, LiquaPar Oil,

> Suttocide A, and LiquaPar PE

> > http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/preserve/pres1.html

> >

> > Germall Plus

> > http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/haircare/per12.html

> >

> > > and where I can buy it in Canada would be great.

> >

> > The first place that comes to mind is

> >

> > Sherri-Lee Gagnon

> > Oshun Spirit Arts Ltd.

> > 33511 Best Avenue

> > Mission, BC V2V 5Z3

> > Voicemail:

> > Fax:

> > Email: info@...

> > http://oshun.ca/

> >

> > > I need to know everything about how to make lotions.

> >

> > I've been formulating lotions for a long time and I know I have a lot

more

> to learn before everything I need/want to know. What you need or want to

> know about making lotions

> > is defined by your own wants and needs.

> >

> > > What do I need to make lotions do I add glycerin to water or to oils?

> >

> > There is an old proverb, I believe it's a Chinese proverb, that says

" the

> longest journey begins with a single step " . And so, with that thought in

> mind, let us begin our

> > journey...

> >

> > Let's start with some basic understandings about creams and lotions.

> Basically, when you formulate/create a lotion or cream, you are combining

> two things, oil and water,

> > that don't like one another.

> >

> > Water is a polar material. Things that " like " water are also polar

> materials. Polar bears like water, but that not quite what I had in mind.

> Polar materials are also called

> > hydrophilic. The prefix " hydro- " means water and the suffix, " -philic "

> means loving. So a hydrophilic material is water-loving.

> >

> > A non-polar material, like Canola Oil, is hydrophobic. The

suffix -phobic

> means hating. So hydrophobic materials hate water. Sometimes oils are

called

> lipophilic. In this

> > case the prefix, " lipo- " means fatty. So a lipophilic material loves

fatty

> materials.

> >

> > So when we are making an emulsion, a cream or lotion, we are attempting

to

> combine water with oil or a hydrophilic material with a hydrophobic

material

> or a hydrophilic

> > material with a lipophilic material. Different ways of saying the same

> thing.

> >

> > If we were to pour some Olive Oil into a bowl of water, the Olive Oil

> would float to the top rather quickly. If we stirred the Olive Oil & Water

> mixture with a whisk, the Canola

> > Oil would breakup into small droplets or globules but on standing, the

> smaller globules would come together and becomes one larger globule. The

> smaller globules are

> > coalescing to form larger globules. This process will continue until we

> are left with two layers.

> >

> > In order to bring these two incompatible materials, like Olive Oil and

> water, together, we need is something that will make the water like the

oil

> and will also make the oil like

> > the water.

> >

> > Going right to the point, what we need is an emulsifier or two or three.

> The most common emulsifiers used by cosmetic chemists are a group of raw

> materials called

> > nonionic emulsifiers.

> >

> > The word " nonionic " mean no charge. The nonionic emulsifier has no

> positive or negative charge. But nonionic emulsifiers have a unique

property

> that is of special value to

> > the formation of emulsions.

> >

> > All emulsifier have two parts. In many ways, similar to a bar magnet. A

> bar magnet has a north pole and a south pole. Nonionic emulsifiers also

have

> two poles or parts.

> >

> > An emulsifier molecule has one part that loves water and one part loves

> oil. The water loving part is called hydrophilic; " hydro-` meaning water

and

> " -philic " meaning to love or

> > like.

> >

> > The other part of the emulsifier molecule is lipophilic; If " lipo- "

means

> fat or oil, then lipophilic means oil loving.

> >

> > Therefore, an emulsifier has a hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part.

> The balance of these two portions of the emulsifier gives us the

> Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB). The

> > HLB of emulsifiers can be calculated or determined through trial and

> error.

> >

> > One tool that is used by many formulators of creams and lotions is the

HLB

> system. The HLB System is a tool; not a rule. It's not an easy short cut

to

> the perfect

> > emulsion. The HLB System dramatically simplifies the choice of

surfactants

> necessary to meet emulsion formulation requirements. It is based on the

> balance between the

> > hydrophilic and the lipophilic proportions that give each surfactant its

> functionality.

> >

> > It is a tool that will guide you in the right direction.

> >

> > The Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance System or HLB System was developed by

the

> HLB System is a tool, not a rule. It's not an easy short cut to the

perfect

> emulsion. The

> > HLB System dramatically simplifies the choice of surfactants necessary

to

> meet emulsion formulation requirements. It is based on the balance between

> the hydrophilic and

> > the lipophilic proportions that give each surfactant its functionality.

> >

> > It is a tool that will guide you in the right direction.

> >

> > The HLB System was developed by C. (Bill) 1949 while he

> was a chemist at the Atlas Powder Company, which eventually became ICI

> Surfactants and is now

> > called Uniqema.

> >

> > According to the HLB system, each nonionic emulsifier has a HLB and each

> oil/wax has a Required HLB.

> >

> > Here are the HLB's of some nonionic emulsifiers:

> >

> > Glycol Distearate (HLB = 1)

> > Sorbitan Trioleate (HLB = 1.8)

> > Glycol Stearate (HLB = 2.9)

> > Sorbitan Sesquioleate (HLB = 3.7)

> > Glyceryl Stearate (HLB = 3.8)

> > Sorbitan Oleate (HLB = 4.3)

> > Sorbitan Isostearate (HLB = 4.7)

> > Sorbitan Stearate (HLB = 4.7)

> > Oleth-2 (HLB = 4.9)

> > Steareth-2 (HLB = 4.9)

> > Ceteth-2 (HLB = 5.3)

> > Glyceryl Stearate SE (HLB = 5.8)

> > PEG-4 Dilaurate (HLB = 6)

> > Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (HLB = 6.6)

> > Sorbitan te (HLB = 8.6)

> > PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate (HLB = 9)

> > Laureth-4 (HLB = 9.7)

> > PEG-20 Almond Glycerides (HLB = 10)

> > PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (HLB = 10.8)

> > Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (HLB = 11)

> > Polysorbate 85 (HLB = 11)

> > Oleth-10 (HLB = 12.4)

> > Ceteth-10 (HLB = 12.9)

> > PEG-8 te (HLB = 13)

> > Polysorbate 60 (HLB = 14.9)

> > Isosteareth-20 (HLB = 15)

> > PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (HLB = 15)

> > PEG-60 Almond Glycerides (HLB = 15)

> > Polysorbate 80 (HLB = 15)

> > Ceteareth-20 (HLB = 15.2)

> > Oleth-20 (HLB = 15.3)

> > Steareth-21 (HLB = 15.5)

> > Ceteth-20 (HLB = 15.7)

> > Isoceteth-20 (HLB = 15.7)

> > Polysorbate 20 (HLB = 16.7)

> > Laureth-23 (HLB = 16.9)

> > PEG-100 Stearate (HLB = 18.8)

> > PEG-80 Sorbitan te (HLB = 19.1)

> >

> > And here are the Required HLBs of several oil/waxes:

> >

> > Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (RHLB = 5)

> > Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (and) Matricaria Extract (RHLB = 5)

> > Dimethicone (RHLB = 5)

> > Almond Oil (RHLB = 6)

> > Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil (RHLB = 6)

> > Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract (RHLB = 6)

> > Peanut Oil (RHLB = 6)

> > Retinyl Palmitate (RHLB = 6)

> > Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil (RHLB = 6)

> > Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter (RHLB = 6)

> > Tocopherol (RHLB = 6)

> > Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil (RHLB = 6.5)

> > Apricot Kernal Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Avocado (Persea Gratissima)Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol (and) Ascorbyl

> Palmitate (RHLB = 7)

> > Canola Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Dog Rose ( Canina) Hips Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Evening Primrose Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Macadamia (Ternifolia) Nut Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Petrolatum (RHLB = 7)

> > PPG-15 Stearyl Ether (RHLB = 7)

> > Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil (RHLB = 7)

> > Babassu Oil (RHLB = 8)

> > Brazil Nut Oil (RHLB = 8)

> > Ceresin (RHLB = 8)

> > Coconut Oil (RHLB = 8)

> > Emu Oil (RHLB = 8)

> > Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter (RHLB = 8)

> > Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil (RHLB = 8)

> > Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) (RHLB = 8)

> > Myristyl Myristate (RHLB = 8.5)

> > Diisopropyl Adipate (RHLB = 9)

> > Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil (RHLB = 9)

> > Anhydrous Lanolin (RHLB = 10)

> > Cetyl Esters (RHLB = 10)

> > Cetyl Palmitate (RHLB = 10)

> > Lanolin (RHLB = 10)

> > Mineral Oil (RHLB = 10.5)

> > Isopropyl Myristate (RHLB = 11.5)

> > Isopropyl Palmitate (RHLB = 11.5)

> > Beeswax (RHLB = 12)

> > C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (RHLB = 13)

> > Castor (Ricinus Communis) Oil (RHLB = 14)

> > Stearic Acid (RHLB = 15)

> > Cetearyl Alcohol (RHLB = 15.5)

> > Cetyl Alcohol (RHLB = 15.5)

> > Stearyl Alcohol (RHLB = 15.5)

> >

> > The national Formulary (NF) defines Emulsifying Wax NF as " a waxy solid

> prepared from Cetostearyl Alcohol containing a polyoxyethylene derivative

of

> a fatty acid ester of

> > sorbitan. Cetostearyl Alcohol is a blend of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl

> Alcohol.

> >

> > Examples of a " polyoxyethylene derivative of a fatty acid ester of

> sorbitan " include:

> >

> > Polysorbate 20 (HLB = 16.7)

> > Polysorbate 60 (HLB = 14.9)

> > Polysorbate 80 (HLB = 15)

> > Polysorbate 85 (HLB = 11)

> >

> > The Required HLB of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol is 15.5. So we

must

> choose a " polyoxyethylene derivative of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan "

that

> has a HLB close to

> > 15.5. Polysorbate 80 should work, but, since Polysorbate 80 is a

liquid,

> the resultant mixture would probably soft and/or mushy.

> >

> > Polysorbate 60 is firmer and has a HLB of 14.9. I believe Emulsifying

Wax

> NF is a blend of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60.

> >

> > So, Emulsifying Wax NF is a self-emulsifying fatty alcohol. In theory

and

> practice, you can eliminate Emulsifying Wax NF but adding the Cetyl

Alcohol

> and Stearyl Alcohol

> > and Polysorbate 60 as separate ingredients.

> >

> > > I tried to make a cleaning milk but didn't succeed maybe someone is

> > > willing to share her recipes.

> >

> > What do you want to emulsify? What chemicals do you have?

> >

> > > I went to the bathstuff pages and was surprise I couldn't find any

> > > links to web sites about all the questions I asked maybe someone has

> > > many links and is willing to share. Don't you think that it would be

> > > a good idea to share our links of best web page? just an idea, I am

> > > sure it could help many newbies.

> >

> > http://www.paddocklabs.com/publications/secundum/secart41.html

> > http://www.zenitech.com/documents/hlb_english.pdf

> > http://www.zenitech.com/primary_ingredients_zenitech.pdf

> >

> > And you should/must spend sometime browsing the CosmeticInfo files area:

> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/files/

> >

> > We have a very large library of files. In fact, we have almost exceeded

> our storage space and have opened a second files library at:

> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosmeticinfo2/files/

> >

> > You'll have to join Cosmeticinfo2 before you can access the files.

> >

> > You should also visit the CosmeticInfo links page:

> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/links

> >

> > And last, but not least are the message archives. The message archives

> cover an incrediable amount of information.

> >

> > > About all these questions you can e-mail me privately if you wish.

> >

> > Actually, I would like to discourage this. There are many lurkers that

> will learn from the open correspondence.

> >

> > Maurice

> >

> > --------------------------------------------------------

> > Maurice O. Hevey

> > Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

> > http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

> > -------------------------------------------------------

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

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> >

> >

> >

> >

> >