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AHA and saponification

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<<< Does anyone know if alpha-hydroxy acids would survive saponification?

thanks,

>>>>

, AHA 's function is to eat away at dead skin to provide the face with

a more youthful look - to put it bluntly according to what Dermatology sites

say, which makes them drugs. Do you want your soap in that classification?

You can get the same effect (somewhat) by just putting in some exfolilation

ingredient. You have many to choose from: oats, corn meal, pumice and

poppyseeds....an not have to worry about your soap being seen as a drug

by the FDA.

Dee ><((((º>·.¸:.·´¯`·.><((((º> .¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>

http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/HotSoapEtc

http://www.hpsoapbook.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

--- " JLJ " <sagehill@g...> wrote:

>

> Does anyone know if alpha-hydroxy acids would survive

> saponification?

>

> thanks,

>

Hi ,

The acids that make up the AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are only

considered AHAs when they are in solution at a certain percentage and

at a pH of ~3.5. For the AHA effect to take place the acids must be

at a certain pH and concentration level. Otherwise, they are just

weak acids.

In saponification with sodium hydroxide the following is produced:

citric acid => sodium citrate (chelating agent, water softener)

lactic acid => sodium lactate (extremely strong humectant)

glycolic acid => sodium glycolate (???)

malic acid => sodium malate (???)

OTW

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> >

> > Does anyone know if alpha-hydroxy acids would survive

> > saponification?

> >

> > thanks,

> >

>

No.

The way to add AHA's is after saponification and during re-milling.

We are looking at a soap with 1% salicylic acid (a BHA), and 1% malic

acid. Its still not at the production stage, and I have had problems

with " soft " soap on the pilot plant. I intend coating the malic acid

in a coconut Fatty Acid/Stearic Acid blend before adding it to the

soap noodles to see if this works (tip from an ex Cussons Chemist).

Whether the AHA keeps its properties in the soap will have to be

assessed, but I know of soaps in the African market with this type of

combination. Solid soap is complex, with free fatty acids existing

with free alkali, hopefully the malic acid will remain intacked until

required when washing. I see a big difference between commercial soap

and homemade soap in the water content. Commercial soap is usually

9-12% water, whilst homemade soap can be 20% or higher. This might

affect the reaction kinetics of the solid soap and malic acid

combination, making it a non starter for home crafters? The malic

acid/salicylic acid combination acts as an exfollient in skin

lightening soap, and gives a " tingle " to the soap.

Dave Eastham

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> The acids that make up the AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are only

> considered AHAs when they are in solution at a certain percentage and

> at a pH of ~3.5.

I was always under the impression that alpha hydroxy acids were alpha hydroxy

acids because of their chemistry, not their dilution or pH.

> For the AHA effect to take place the acids must be at a certain pH and

concentration level.

To be safely used, that is accurate. In their " Final Report on the Safety

Assessment of Glycolic Acid; Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, and Sodium Glycolate;

Methyl, Ethyl,

Propyl, and Butyl Glycolate; Lactic Acid; Ammonium, Calcium, Potassium, Sodium

and TEA-Lactate; and Methyl, Ethyl, Isopropyl, Butyl Lauryl, Myristyl, and Cetyl

Lactate " ,

the CIR Expert Panel concluded that " Glycolic and Lactic Acid, their common

salts and their simple esters, are safe for use in cosmetic products at

concentrations equal to

10% or less, at final formulation pH equal to 3.5 or less, when formulated to

avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include the daily

use of sun protection.

These ingredients are safe for use in salon products at concentrations equal to

30% or less, at final formulation pH equal to 3.0 or less, in products designed

for brief,

discontinuous use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by

trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the

daily use of sun

protection. "

> OTW

FYI:

" When you post, always sign your real name. We like to know the identity of the

person we are having a conversation with. "

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo/files/ADMIN%20Folder/ADMIN_%20READ.tx\

t

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

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Thanks for a good explanation, OTW.

Actually, once I read your post I realized that I should have known this,

having taken college chemistry. In my defense though, I should say that Chem

101 and 102 were not my favorite subjects, plus I took them some 20 years

ago, and worse, I've been raising goats for the last 5-6 years which doesn't

require much college knowlege, much less chemistry... can we say, " brain

atrophy " ? lol

However, now that I am making soaps, etc, and actually have a practical

application for it, I'm becoming interested in chemistry again.

thanks again!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The acids that make up the AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are only

considered AHAs when they are in solution at a certain percentage and

at a pH of ~3.5. For the AHA effect to take place the acids must be

at a certain pH and concentration level. Otherwise, they are just

weak acids.

In saponification with sodium hydroxide the following is produced:

citric acid => sodium citrate (chelating agent, water softener)

lactic acid => sodium lactate (extremely strong humectant)

glycolic acid => sodium glycolate (???)

malic acid => sodium malate (???)

OTW

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>

> > The acids that make up the AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are only

> > considered AHAs when they are in solution at a certain percentage

> > and at a pH of ~3.5.

>

> I was always under the impression that alpha hydroxy acids were

> alpha hydroxy acids because of their chemistry, not their dilution

> or pH.

>

Your right, I worded that poorly. I should have said that to achieve

the alpha-hydroxy " effect " a specific solution concentration and pH

range are required.

T.

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>

> Thanks for a good explanation, OTW.

>

You're most welcome.

I have questions along the same lines as yours. Does anyone know

what happens to the following substances in a sodium hydroxide

solution?

- Urea USP

- Saccharide Hydrolysate

- Magnesium Aspartate

Thanks!

T.

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Funny I thought OTW - stood for 'off the wall' you changed your name by

deed poll OTW? :)

M.

Re: AHA and saponification

|

| >

| > Thanks for a good explanation, OTW.

| >

|

| You're most welcome.

|

| I have questions along the same lines as yours. Does anyone know

| what happens to the following substances in a sodium hydroxide

| solution?

|

| - Urea USP

| - Saccharide Hydrolysate

| - Magnesium Aspartate

|

| Thanks!

|

| T.

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

| Post message: Cosmeticinfo

| Subscribe: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo

| Unsubscribe: Cosmeticinfo-unsubscribe

| List owner: Cosmeticinfo-owner

| URL to this page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cosmeticinfo

|

|

|

|

|

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>Does anyone know

> what happens to the following substances in a sodium hydroxide

> solution?

>

> - Urea USP

> - Saccharide Hydrolysate

> - Magnesium Aspartate

I suggest you contact Induchem.

http://www.induchem.com

Coincidentally, they sell a product called Unimoist U-125. The INCI

name is " Glycerin (and) Urea (and) Saccharide Hydrolyzate (and)

Magnesium Aspartate (and) Glycine (and) Alanine (and) Creatine " .

If you live in the US, you can contact Induchem's US distributor,

Lipo Chemicals

http://www.lipochemicals.com/

The technical service email address is:

technicalservices@...

Maurice

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In a message dated 2/15/03 5:19:03 PM Alaskan Standard Time, otw777@...

writes:

> I know that the glycine and alanine are

> becoming sodium glycniate and sodium analinate respectively, and

> posibbly the magnesium aspartate to sodium aspartate - all of which

> would add a slight uncalculated lye discount to my soap.

>

>

Doesn't this mean that you are adding extra ingredients just to superfat your

soap?

Sage

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>

> >Does anyone know

> > what happens to the following substances in a sodium hydroxide

> > solution?

> >

> > - Urea USP

> > - Saccharide Hydrolysate

> > - Magnesium Aspartate

>

> I suggest you contact Induchem.

> http://www.induchem.com

>

> Coincidentally, they sell a product called Unimoist U-125. The

> INCI name is " Glycerin (and) Urea (and) Saccharide Hydrolyzate

> (and) Magnesium Aspartate (and) Glycine (and) Alanine (and)

> Creatine " .

>

> If you live in the US, you can contact Induchem's US distributor,

> Lipo Chemicals

> http://www.lipochemicals.com/

>

> The technical service email address is:

> technicalservices@l...

>

> Maurice

Thanks Maurice! I have some samples of Unimoist U-125 that I received

from Lipo Chemicals. I added some to a cold processed batch of

soap at trace and I really like the qualities that it has added to my

soap. I have added a ton of extra glycerin to CP soap before so I

know it's not the glycerin. I know that the glycine and alanine are

becoming sodium glycniate and sodium analinate respectively, and

posibbly the magnesium aspartate to sodium aspartate - all of which

would add a slight uncalculated lye discount to my soap.

I'll give Lipo Chemicals a call.

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> In a message dated 2/15/03 5:19:03 PM Alaskan Standard Time,

otw777@y...

> writes:

>

>

> > I know that the glycine and alanine are

> > becoming sodium glycniate and sodium analinate respectively, and

> > posibbly the magnesium aspartate to sodium aspartate - all of

> > which would add a slight uncalculated lye discount to my soap.

> >

>

> Doesn't this mean that you are adding extra ingredients just to

> superfat your soap?

>

> Sage

>

Yes and no. I am not adding these ingredients just to superfat my

soap, in fact, I am trying to find out to what extent these

ingredients may be superfatting my soap - I suspect very little. I

am enjoying the qualities that Unimoist U-125 provides my soap.

There are 7 ingredients in Unimoist U-125: Glycerin, Urea, Saccharide

Hydrolyzate, Magnesium Aspartate, Glycine, Alanine, and Creatine.

The primary ingredient in order of predominance, glycerin, cannot

make up less that 14% of Unimoist U-125. The subsquent ingredients

make up 14% or less. Given that Glycine and Alanine are at the tail

end of the order of predominance it is likely that they make up a

very small percent of Unimoist U-125. Hence, very little additional

superfatting.

Since I have added extra glycerin to soap I know that the qualites of

Unimoist U-125 that I am enjoying are not due to extra glycerin in

the soap. So that leaves the other 6 ingredients in question.

My curiousity stems around what happens in a sodium hydroxide

solution to the following: Urea, Saccharide Hydrolyzate, and

Magnesium Aspartate. (I'll call Lipo Chemical on Monday as was

suggested)

T.

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