Water-In-Oil Emulsions

[Guest guest]

Remember, on Wed, 08 May 2002 13:52:14 -0500, when Maurice wrote:

>I've never had a need or desire to work with w/o emulsions, until recently.

Well, I finally made my first beeswax/borax, water-in-oil emulsion.

Just for fun. Perhaps and/or have made these emulsions

based on beeswax and borax before, but this was new for me. I hope I

never loose my sense of wonder, its so much fun!

It was a neat experience and a learning experience. And In a way, an

adventure, since this type of emulsion goes back Galen in 100 AD.

BTW, I used

Part A

Deionized Water [Water] = 32.9%

20 Mule Team Borax [sodium Borate] = 0.75%

Part B

Beeswax [beeswax] = 11%

Lipovol J [Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil] = 28%

Neobee M-5 Cosmetic [Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride] = 20.6%

Rita CA [Cetyl Alcohol] = 2.5%

Cutina CP [Cetyl Palmitate] = 2.5%

RITA GMS [Glyceryl Stearate] = 0.75%

Part C

Germaben II [Propylene Glycol (and) olidinyl Urea (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben] = 1%

Total = 100%

Yes, I know, I cheated a little by using RITA GMS [Glyceryl Stearate],

a low HLB surfactant.

When I completed this water in oil emulsion on Friday afternoon, the

emulsion had a very greasy feel, which was to be expected, since the

oil phase was the external phase. It reminded me of a traditional cold

cream.

99+% of the creams and lotions we discuss here are oil in water

emulsions. In oil in water emulsions, water forms the external phase

and the oils (and waxes) form the internal phase.

When I went back to the lab this morning, my beeswax/borax emulsion,

with a touch of GMS, had set up to a very thick cream which was greasy

(aka emollient upon application and dried (penetrated the skin) very

quickly.

Things I would do different or try:

Reduce the level of Germaben II to suit the amount of water.

Fiddle with the oil phase; maybe switch from Jojoba Oil to Soybean Oil

(more EFAs)

Consider using Shea Butter, Avocado (or Soybean Unsaponifiables)

Add some Tocopherol and/or Tocopheryl Acetate

And I would also add a humectant, like Glycerin.

I have no idea how stable this formula is but it is a water in oil

formula that works and a point of exploration and discussion.

LR

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Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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