Re: OK, I'll rephrase the question :)

[Guest guest]

>>>Instead of e-wax, I used other emulsifiers.ÿ It is actually quite nice,

>but has a slight waxy feel, rather than the silky feel of the original.ÿ The

>consistency & texture is fine.

>

>Ingredients:

>

>Water part - 60%

>Oil part - 20.75%

>Glycerin - 10%

>Glyceryl Monostearate - 5%

>ProLipid 141 - 2.5%

>Glycol Stearate SE - 2.5%

>

>Also added VitE, Silk amino acids, & Germall Plus.

>

>What I should eliminate/change/add to lighten the waxy feel?ÿ Does the

>Prolipid need a co-emulsifier or can it stand alone? (ISP Prolipid 141:

>Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin,

>Lauryl Alcohol Myristyl Alcohol & Cetyl Alcohol)

First, let me say up front that I have never use Prolipid 141 nor have

I seen a good reason to use it.

That being said, I think you have WAY too much emulsifiers and those

emulsifiers are waxes.

Do you have any Polysorbate 20, 60, 80 or 85?

BTW, thanks for rephrasing the question. =8-)

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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[Guest guest]

Thanks Maurice, yes I have Poly 20 -- knew it was too much emulsifier --

just not sure which to eliminate

The info on the Prolipid sounded like a good alternative to using several

products -- this is a rich, heavier creme meant to be used after showering

and seal in moisture. Would you suggest a different product?

Jan Flood oakridge@...

[Guest guest]

>Thanks Maurice, yes I have Poly 20 -- knew it was too much emulsifier --

>just not sure which to eliminate

It's a process of guess-timation, a bit of intuition and a tad of

science.

>The info on the Prolipid sounded like a good alternative to using several

>products -- this is a rich, heavier creme meant to be used after showering

>and seal in moisture.

You're absolutely correct. It does sound great. For the Prolipid 141

story go to

http://www.ispcorp.com/products/hairskin/skincare/prolipid/index.html

> Would you suggest a different product?

I have a different perspective to try. Can you tell me the quantitive

make up you're oil phase or the required HLB of your oil phase?

(ingredient and percenatage)

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>>Can you tell me the quantitive make up you're oil phase

On this particular batch I've used Mango Butter at 10.25% and Coconut Oil at

10.5%

Jan Flood oakridge@...

[Guest guest]

>>>Can you tell me the quantitive make up you're oil phase

>

>On this particular batch I've used Mango Butter at 10.25% and Coconut Oil at

>10.5%

Thanks! I'll come up with a different emulsifying system based on

Glyceryl Monostearate and Polysorbate 20.

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

-------------------------------------------------------

[Guest guest]

>

>

>>>>Can you tell me the quantitive make up you're oil phase

>>

>>On this particular batch I've used Mango Butter at 10.25% and Coconut Oil at

>>10.5%

>

>Thanks!ÿ I'll come up with a different emulsifying system based on

>Glyceryl Monostearate and Polysorbate 20.

I've made the assumption that the required HLB of your oil phase is

approximately 8.

Glyceryl Stearate @ 2% and Polysorbate 20 @ 1% will give you a HLB of

approximately 8.

So, I've changed your formula to look like this:

Part A

Deionized Water [Water] = 59.6%

Glycerin [Glycerin] = 10%

Aloe Vera Gel [Aloe Barbadensis Gel] = 5%

Crosilk Liquid [silk Amino Acids] = 1%

Part B

Mango Butter [Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter] = 10.25%

Lipovol C-76 [Coconut Oil] = 10.5%

Covi-ox T-50 [Tocopherol] = 0.5%

Glyceryl Monostearate [Glyceryl Stearate] = 2%

Liposorb L-20 [Polysorbate 20] = 1%

Part C

Germall Plus [olidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate] =

0.15%

Total = 100%

With gentle stirring, heat Part A and Part B to 80C.

At 80C, with good stirring, add Part B to Part A.

Once the emulsion has formed, it should be uniform and milky looking,

begin cooling to 45C.

Continue stirring during the cool down.

At 45C, with stirring, add Part C.

Cool to 25C and QS for any water that may have been loss through

evaporation.

Maurice

--------------------------------------------------------

Maurice O. Hevey

Convergent Cosmetics, Inc.

http://www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

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