Re: Patchouli...Now Alcohol...

[Guest guest]

> <Alcohol one can drink, is called ethanol or Ethyl Alcohol...Also known

> as booze...>

> LOL ! Quick, do the 'jazz hands'!

>

>

, Folks....

Jazz Hands only on certain Saturday nights, during my checkered

youth...<G>....!

Here is where I usually remind folks that you really want a high purity

alcohol...95%....

Most essences will dissolve in that strength...

Also...a proof number is half a percent....100 proof is 50%

Alcohol...150 proof is 75% alcohol...etc.....The balance being primarily

water...

So to get to 95% alcohol, you have a proof of 190...This will typically

be a perfumers alcohol or the infamous Everclear 190...(there's an

Everclear 150, also)....

Everclear is a grain alcohol, sold in liquor stores as a consumable...I

run mine through a Brita type filter, a coupla times....

I ran across a 190 Vodka called Ambur once, but haven't seen it in a

while...

--

W. Bourbonais

L'Hermite Aromatique

A.J.P. (GIA)

[Guest guest]

>

> > Still wondering about softening it thought with water, if that's necessary

and might enhance my blends.

>

> Suzy, your should always add as much water to the final blend as possible.

Test by slowly adding water to the blend until a slight haze occurs. Then

mathematically back off for the final calculation.

>

> When making the blend, oil+alcohol, mix, then qs with the water amount you

calculated. Age 24-48 hours, then place in freezer and filter 'secuntum artem'

with a neutral filtering agent. Usually, anything above 18% will not tolerate

more H2O. In most cases, unless you live in a particularly bad water area, tap

water is OK.

>

> There are several reasons to cut. 1) lower finished cost 2)salting out effect

on the oil 3) less drying and sting effect on skin 4) stronger olfactive

perceived effect on skin.

Great explanation! Thanks Chris. Just wanted to add that I always use a

distilled flower water like rosewater or orange blossom water because it adds a

slight fragrance to the blend and it is distilled so it does not contain any

minerals or impurities aside from the plant matter used in the distillation.

Plus it's a natural pairing with the distilled oils that I use.

Maggie

[Guest guest]

>

> > Still wondering about softening it thought with water, if that's necessary

and might enhance my blends.

>

> Suzy, your should always add as much water to the final blend as possible.

Test by slowly adding water to the blend until a slight haze occurs. Then

mathematically back off for the final calculation.

>

Just want to point out, (obvious to the experienced, but important for beginers)

the water should be added -after- you have blended a perfume. don't dilute your

alcohol in advance, because then it won't allow you to dissolve many of the

thicker, heavier scents you may add to it.

That is why we work with such a high proof alcohol in the first place.

All the best

Hemla

[Guest guest]

>

> > Still wondering about softening it thought with water, if that's necessary

and might enhance my blends.

>

> Suzy, your should always add as much water to the final blend as possible.

Test by slowly adding water to the blend until a slight haze occurs. Then

mathematically back off for the final calculation.

>

> When making the blend, oil+alcohol, mix, then qs with the water amount you

calculated. Age 24-48 hours, then place in freezer and filter 'secuntum artem'

with a neutral filtering agent. Usually, anything above 18% will not tolerate

more H2O. In most cases, unless you live in a particularly bad water area, tap

water is OK.

>

> There are several reasons to cut. 1) lower finished cost 2)salting out effect

on the oil 3) less drying and sting effect on skin 4) stronger olfactive

perceived effect on skin.

>

> -= Cß =-

>

Sorry If I sound ignorant, what does qs mean? And what is 'secuntum artem'.

Thanks,

Kristie