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Re: 190 Proof Everclear

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To: NaturalPerfumery

Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2012 1:12 PM

Subject: Re: 190 Proof Everclear

 

> Hi Everyone,

> I have found a new supplier for 190 Everclear. They are winechateau.com. I

ordered 4 bottles yesterday and received an email saying order shipped. I am

in California too!

> I was afraid we were going to have to go on a road trip to Arizona to get it!

Here in Georgia, we're fortunate to have 190 proof Golden Grain readily

available at the local package stores (I guess they only call them " package

stores " in the South!) It has a  light sweetish, almost fruity pleasant scent so

doesn't need filtering. I'm not familiar with Everclear but I've heard from

others on the incense list that its scent is stronger and a bit

medicinal/chemical in comparison to Golden Grain.

Kate

Fallawake Magickal Arts

www.fallawake.etsy.com

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> Here in Georgia, we're fortunate to have 190 proof Golden Grain readily

available at the local package stores (I guess they only call them " package

stores " in the South!) It has a  light sweetish, almost fruity pleasant scent so

doesn't need filtering. I'm not familiar with Everclear but I've heard from

others on the incense list that its scent is stronger and a bit

medicinal/chemical in comparison to Golden Grain.

>

> Kate

> Fallawake Magickal Arts

> www.fallawake.etsy.com

>

Thanks for this tip Kate - My mom just happened to be visiting Georgia, and

since I've been itching to use something other than Everclear, I had her pick up

two bottles for me.

Hanna

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>

>

> > I have found a new supplier for 190 Everclear. They are winechateau.com.

> I ordered 4 bottles yesterday and received an email saying order shipped.

> I am in California too!

> > I was afraid we were going to have to go on a road trip to Arizona to get

> it!

>

> When I lived in So. California, we used to go to Mexico to purchase grain

> alcohol. Nowadays, I guess the border towns are all but deserted due to the

> drug cartels...how sad.

>

> One thing about grain alcohol: If you are using for perfumes and colognes

> (or even in liqueur recipes), be sure to filter it through charcoal first.

> Since grain isn't filtered or aged like vodka, it contains " fusel oils " ,

> which are a by product of distillation. They give the alcohol a harsh scent

> that carries over into your perfumes, especially the more delicate ones.

> The charcoal helps remove these.

> Cat

>

Cat,

What kind of charcoal filter do you use? I tried this tip in a Pur brand filter

pitcher, but it did something to the alcohol, and none of the EOs would mix in,

they all just floated on top.

Thanks,

Hanna

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Cat,

What kind of charcoal filter do you use?  I tried this tip in a Pur brand filter

pitcher, but it did something to the alcohol, and none of the EOs would mix in,

they all just floated on top.

Thanks,

Hanna

I like Golden Grain too and I filter everything. I use a Brita filter dedicated

to alcohol only.  If you have used it for water there is likely some water left

in the filter that could be diluting the alcohol.

Elise

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> I like Golden Grain too and I filter everything. I use a Brita filter

dedicated to alcohol only.  If you have used it for water there is likely some

water left in the filter that could be diluting the alcohol.

>

> Elise

>

>

Thanks for that tip Elise, I think that must have been the problem. I did fill

it with water once at the beginning to try to clean out any residue, and then

set it aside to dry for a day or two. But it must be impossible to get the

charcoal inside the filter totally dry once it's been wet. I'll give it a go

with a new unused filter and hopefully that will solve the issue.

~Hanna

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Thanks for that tip Elise, I think that must have been the problem.  I did fill

it with water once at the beginning to try to clean out any residue, and then

set it aside to dry for a day or two.  But it must be impossible to get the

charcoal inside the filter totally dry once it's been wet.  I'll give it a go

with a new unused filter and hopefully that will solve the issue.

~Hanna

Yes, I think it would take quite a while for the filter to dry out.  I always

filter a large quantity of alcohol at once because some of it always ends up

being left in the unit. Good luck!

Elise

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Remember, it's 'activated charcoal', so placing it in the over to 'dry out' will

do a lot of good, and even rejuvenate the material if hot enough, and long

(time) enough....

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> What kind of charcoal filter do you use? I tried this tip in a Pur brand

filter pitcher, but it did something to the alcohol, and none of the EOs

would mix in, they all just floated on top.

Hi Hanna:

I pack a #4 cone coffee filter with activated aquarium charcoal, place it in

a funnel and place that over another bottle large enough to hold the liquid.

Pour the alcohol slowly though the fiilter, letting it drip into the bottle.

Repeat 2 or more times. Then let it settle and decant off the alcohol from

any sediment.

You can also add the charcoal right into the alcohol and let it sit for a

few weeks, shaking the bottle daily. Filter through a coffee filter and

then decant off the alcohol from any sediment after a few days.

HTH,

Cat

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I like Golden Grain too and I filter everything. I use a Brita filter dedicated

to alcohol only. If you have used it for water there is likely some water left

in the filter that could be diluting the alcohol.

Elise

I have also heard that it is best to chill the alcohol to 4 degree's and then

filter it through charcoal. I'm unsure if this would soften the alcohol further

or if cold filtration refers to the final stages of your perfume.

If anyone has tips on what materials to use to soften the alcohol or making a

good fragrance base it would be really helpful.

Happy scented adventures.

Sent from my iPhone

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  • 2 weeks later...
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>

> I like Golden Grain too and I filter everything. I use a Brita filter

dedicated to alcohol only. If you have used it for water there is likely some

water left in the filter that could be diluting the alcohol.

>

> Elise

Hi, Everyone:

I just got some aquarium charcoal and plan on making a tea bag with a coffee

filter and some string to filter the everclear.

I read in Alec Lawless' book, " Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose " that

to soften alcohol, 8% distilled water should be added, slowly, but no more than

that. He also mentioned that your perfume formula should contain 30% to 50%

fixative.

In addition, Alec mentions that he lets his perfume sit a week at room

temperature and adds a quarter teaspoon of fuller's earth and mixes it in

thoroughly and places it in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, without

shaking, he recommends carefully pouring the blend through a perfume grade

filter. The sludge left on the bottom could be poured last into the funnel and

left to drain slowly

I had purchased some perfumer's alcohol from a different supplier than I usually

order from. I didn't know that it contained 10% water and wasn't 200 proof.

The result was that the oils separated from the alcohol. I let it sit for about

48 hours and shook it a few times a day. Finally, I placed the container in the

freezer and was able to pour off the alcohol into a glass jar covered with

several thicknesses of cheesecloth. Surprisingly, this didn't affect the

strength of the scent and I had both perfume and perfume oil. (I let the little

bit of alcohol that remained on top of the oil evaporate)

>

Best to All,

Margo

>

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>> In addition, Alec mentions that he lets his perfume sit a week at room

temperature and adds a quarter teaspoon of fuller's earth and mixes it in

thoroughly and places it in the refrigerator overnight. The next day,

without shaking, he recommends carefully pouring the blend through a perfume

grade filter. The sludge left on the bottom could be poured last into the

funnel and left to drain slowly

Hi Margo:

Magnesium carbonate or talc were once used to clarify cloudy perfumes. Be

aware that you will lose some of the fragrance when using this method. A

" perfume " grade filter can be a paper coffee filter, if necessary (cut-up

coffee filters also make excellent " test strips " for sampling perfumes).

>> I read in Alec Lawless' book, " Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the

Nose " that to soften alcohol, 8% distilled water should be added, slowly,

but no more than that. He also mentioned that your perfume formula should

contain 30% to 50% fixative.

That seems like an awful lot of fixative in his formula...what does he

consider to be a " fixative " that would require that amount? I like to use

glycerin as my fixative of choice (odorless and effective at reducing the

evaporation rate), but about 3% of my base.

incense and benzoin resins, orris root, balsam Tolu and Peru,

sandalwood, etc. can all be used as fixatives. Certain essential oils have

fixative properties, but be careful as many of them are strongly scented and

will overpower the other notes.

>> I had purchased some perfumer's alcohol from a different supplier than I

usually order from. I didn't know that it contained 10% water and wasn't

200 proof. The result was that the oils separated from the alcohol. I let

it sit for about 48 hours and shook it a few times a day. Finally, I placed

the container in the freezer and was able to pour off the alcohol into a

glass jar covered with several thicknesses of cheesecloth.

If you are going to add water to an alcohol-based perfume, it should be done

as the last step. Diluting the alcohol before you add the essential oils is

like mixing the oil and vinegar before adding the egg for mayonnaise....your

emulsion either won't happen or will be so weak it will cloud or separate.

Finally, aging a blend also helps mellow sharper notes and gives the

fragrance a nice body (like a fine wine). Anywhere from 2 weeks or longer

(4711 ages it's Eau de Cologne in oak casks before bottling it)!

Hope this helps,

Cat

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> Hi Margo:

> Magnesium carbonate or talc were once used to clarify cloudy perfumes. Be

> aware that you will lose some of the fragrance when using this method. A

> " perfume " grade filter can be a paper coffee filter, if necessary (cut-up

> coffee filters also make excellent " test strips " for sampling perfumes).

>

> >> I read in Alec Lawless' book, " Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the

> Nose " that to soften alcohol, 8% distilled water should be added, slowly,

> but no more than that. He also mentioned that your perfume formula should

> contain 30% to 50% fixative.

>

> That seems like an awful lot of fixative in his formula...what does he

> consider to be a " fixative " that would require that amount? I like to use

> glycerin as my fixative of choice (odorless and effective at reducing the

> evaporation rate), but about 3% of my base.

>

> incense and benzoin resins, orris root, balsam Tolu and Peru,

> sandalwood, etc. can all be used as fixatives. Certain essential oils have

> fixative properties, but be careful as many of them are strongly scented and

> will overpower the other notes.

>

> >> I had purchased some perfumer's alcohol from a different supplier than I

> usually order from. I didn't know that it contained 10% water and wasn't

> 200 proof. The result was that the oils separated from the alcohol. I let

> it sit for about 48 hours and shook it a few times a day. Finally, I placed

> the container in the freezer and was able to pour off the alcohol into a

> glass jar covered with several thicknesses of cheesecloth.

>

> If you are going to add water to an alcohol-based perfume, it should be done

> as the last step. Diluting the alcohol before you add the essential oils is

> like mixing the oil and vinegar before adding the egg for mayonnaise....your

> emulsion either won't happen or will be so weak it will cloud or separate.

>

> Finally, aging a blend also helps mellow sharper notes and gives the

> fragrance a nice body (like a fine wine). Anywhere from 2 weeks or longer

> (4711 ages it's Eau de Cologne in oak casks before bottling it)!

>

> Hope this helps,

> Cat

>

Hi, Cat:

Thanks for the tip. My gut feeling was against using fuller's earth in the

first place.

As for making a tea bag with a coffee filter and adding some powdered charcoal

and tying it tightly with a string - the charcoal powder went through my

homemade tea bag. I had to filter the everclear through three thicknesses of

coffee filters several times in order to remove the charcoal..

I'm tossing this idea out the window and chalking it up to experience. You fail

your way to success as the saying goes.

Anyhow, my perfume is clear. I always strain it through several thicknesses of

cheesecloth. So if it works, don't try to fix it

As far as softening the alcohol scent, well, it just has to age.

The perfume that I made a year ago. which I forgot about, now smells divine.

Happy sniffles.

Margo

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> Why do we add:

>

> ... a quarter teaspoon of fuller's earth.. Magnesium carbonate or talc,

then filter?

The technique is similar to dropping an egg into chicken broth to clarify

it. The larger, un-emulsified oil particles stick to the clay and are

filtered out, resulting in (hopefully) a clear product.

The oil never really dissolves into the liquid completely...they are so

small that we perceive the emulsion as a " clear " liquid...

Cat

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Hi Cat,

Along these same lines, do you ever let the essential oils and alcohol sit a

while before adding water? For example, last night I was making an aftershave -

I mixed the EOs and 190 proof Everclear, then added the witch hazel extract, but

a large amount of EO still separated. I'm wondering if I gave it a few days to

sit, perhaps the EO/Alcohol segment might meld together more and I wouldn't have

the separation problems.

Thanks,

Hanna

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> Along these same lines, do you ever let the essential oils and alcohol sit

a while before adding water? For example, last night I was making an

aftershave - I mixed the EOs and 190 proof Everclear, then added the witch

hazel extract, but a large amount of EO still separated. I'm wondering if I

gave it a few days to sit, perhaps the EO/Alcohol segment might meld

together more and I wouldn't have the separation problems.

Hi Hanna:

This is why I refer to it as an emulsion rather than a solution. You have

oil dispersed in the alcohol, but when too much water (or in this case witch

hazel) is added the emulsion breaks and the oil separates out.

Now I can't explain why this happens on a molecular level ( this is

your cue), but I don't think you will be able to get the oil to re-emulsify

without adding more emulsifier (which is your alcohol).

Try stirring a tablespoon or two of the alcohol and see if it clears up. If

not, add another tablespoon and stir again. I wouldn't add much more than

maybe 10 or 15% of the total, since you don't want to dilute it so much that

you can't smell the essences!

Let it stand undisturbed for a few days and see if it clears. If it

doesn't, you can always filter out the separated oil and bottle the

fragrance in an opaque container.

HTH,

Cat

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Very difficult to quickly explain, but in a nutshell.

It is not an emulsion, it only becomes an emulsion when the balance between the

soluble and insoluble is broken.

Has to do with polarity. Look up 'salting out'. For emulsions, check:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micelle

For soluble, think 'homogeneous.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solubility

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----- Original Message -----

Hi Cat,

Along these same lines, do you ever let the essential oils and alcohol sit a

while before adding water? For example, last night I was making an aftershave -

I mixed the EOs and 190 proof Everclear, then added the witch hazel extract, but

a large amount of EO still separated. I'm wondering if I gave it a few days to

sit, perhaps the EO/Alcohol segment might meld together more and I wouldn't have

the separation problems.

Thanks,

Hanna

I'm kind of busy due to Easter, tax season, and consulting. I'll dig up a PDF

on the subject of solutions and polarity, else search on that topic. Remember

that temperature also plays a role in solubility.

------------------------------------

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