Re: Lily of the Valley Accord?

[Guest guest]

> Hi, I just recently re-joined this group after quite a long time... it's

nice to be back and thinking about doing some perfumery again! An

acquaintance of mine gave me a recipe for an oil blend that had been

available to us in the past but is no longer available now. It was a

beautiful, unique scent, and I'd like to be able to duplicate it. Most of

the ingredients are readily available, but one, lily of the valley, seems to

be more difficult to find. Is this flower like lilac - hard if not

impossible to extract? Or is there a source somewhere. Actually, I don't

need an essential oil, if there's a recipe for an accord that comes close to

the fragrance I think it would work.

Hi Tonie:

Welcome back! Lily of the valley is one of those delicate flowers that

can't be distilled, unfortunately. I don't know if anyone has had success

extracting the scent with other methods, but I found this old formula in my

notes:

Imitation Lily of the Valley

½ pint extract of tuberose

1 oz extract of jasmine

2 oz extract of orange flowers

3 oz extract of vanilla

¼ pint extract of cassie

¼ pint extract of rose

3 drops otto of bitter almonds

HTH,

Cat

[Guest guest]

Sorry about the top posting! :-Þ

Cat

[Guest guest]

From: >^-.-^< Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 3:41 PM

To: NaturalPerfumery

Subject: Re: Lily of the Valley Accord?

> Hi, I just recently re-joined this group after quite a long time... it's

nice to be back and thinking about doing some perfumery again! An

acquaintance of mine gave me a recipe for an oil blend that had been

available to us in the past but is no longer available now. It was a

beautiful, unique scent, and I'd like to be able to duplicate it. Most of

the ingredients are readily available, but one, lily of the valley, seems to

be more difficult to find. Is this flower like lilac - hard if not

impossible to extract? Or is there a source somewhere. Actually, I don't

need an essential oil, if there's a recipe for an accord that comes close to

the fragrance I think it would work.

Hi Tonie,

My name is and I have been new and lurking here for about the

past 3 months. I haven't really introduced myself to the group. I became

associated with a direct sell company called Studio Parfum shortly before I

joined this group. I joined this group because I realized I knew very little

about creating perfume. Studio Parfum sells what has been explained to me to be

100% pure perfume oils. As a Studo Parfum Designer I help others create their

signature scent. Honestly I haven't done anything with my new venture, mostly

because I'm apprehensive about the direct sell concept of home parties, shows,

and events plus I felt I needed to know more about creating perfume before I

jumped out there. However, it is more a personal fear of being in the

spotlight. Anyway, I'm not sure if I am allowed to do this on any day other

than Tuesday but Studio Parfum does carry Lilly of the Valley Perfume Oil. You

can visit my website: www.studioparfum.com/laurawill

click on “shop†on the top menu tabs then click on the pink “Exclusive

Fragrance Collectionâ€. Scroll down and you will find Lilly of the Valley. I

hope I’m not breaking any rules by posting this.

For the rest of my introduction, I am still on the fence with my perfume

business. If I don’t direct sell through parties, I think I will create my

own scents and sell them that way. If anyone has any feed back good or bad

about this company, I would appreciate it. I am extemely new to this art and I

have never studied fragrance or the art of creating fragrance before so I really

became associated with Studio Parfum on a “wimâ€.

Sincerely

[Guest guest]

> Anyway, I'm not sure if I am allowed to do this on any day

> other than Tuesday but Studio Parfum does carry Lilly of the

> Valley Perfume Oil. Scroll down and you will find Lilly of the

> Valley. I hope Im not breaking any rules by posting this. For

> the rest of my introduction, I am still on the fence with my

> perfume business. If I don’t direct sell through parties, I

> think I will create my own scents and sell them that way. If

> anyone has any feed back good or bad about this company, I

> would appreciate it. I am extemely new to this art and I have

> never studied fragrance or the art of creating fragrance before

> so I really became associated with Studio Parfum on a

> “wimâ€. Sincerely

Hi :

Actually, a few rules are broken, but it's OK, you're a beginner,

and this is a chance to educate some of our members about " lily

of the valley " . First, you have to be approved as a vendor to

post an ad. Go to the Files section to read up on that. That

said, you're selling synthetic oils, and that is not allowed in

this group, as we are devoted to natural perfumery.

There is NO lily of the valley oil, absolute or any sort of extract.

What you're selling is a synthetic aromachemical,

hydroxycitronellol. Many aromatherapists and beginner perfumers

are fooled by the natural claims. Your supplier will debate this,

and claim it's natural. They're 100% wrong.

Anya McCoy

http://AnyasGarden.com

http://PerfumeClasses.com

http://NaturalPerfumers.com

[Guest guest]

hydroxycitronellol > hydroxycitronellal (aka Laurine)

-

[Guest guest]

Hi , you ask for opinions about the company...

It sounds like something that people would very much enjoy, and I wish I

was ruthless enough to do something similar.

What I dislike about the company is that their products are obviously

100% synthetic, and that they have obviously been lying to you about this.

The term " 100% pure perfume oils " is one of those lovely empty bullshit

phrases that are tossed around in the perfume industry to confuse

people. It is semantially null.

Pure what? Undiluted? I doubt that very much, 100% perfume? define

perfume...100% natural? a) not at those prices and not in those scents.

If you choose to go ahead with it, have fun, it's a cool idea...however,

do your research and make sure you have liablity insurance as you

basically have no idea what is in the " oils " you are selling.

Ambrosia

http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

[Guest guest]

Just for fun and to see if I can really do this, for about a year and since we

have Lily of the Valey plants, I thpought I would try to make a tincture. Well,

after a year, I have a slight scent of Lily of the Valley fragrance but mostly

denatured alcohol is the scent. Since I have nothing to loose by keeping the

flowers in its jar, I will let it cook more. But Anya is so right, when I first

started creating nautral perfumes I was also fooled by a supplier who swore that

the Lily of the Valley EO I just purhased was all natural. Live and learn.

[Guest guest]

>

> Hi Tonie:

> Welcome back! Lily of the valley is one of those delicate flowers that

> can't be distilled, unfortunately. I don't know if anyone has had success

> extracting the scent with other methods, but I found this old formula in my

> notes:

>

> Imitation Lily of the Valley

> ½ pint extract of tuberose

> 1 oz extract of jasmine

> 2 oz extract of orange flowers

> 3 oz extract of vanilla

> ¼ pint extract of cassie

> ¼ pint extract of rose

> 3 drops otto of bitter almonds

>

> HTH,

> Cat

Thank you very much for this! I had a feeling that the oils I was seeing online

were not essentials. Even if your recipe doesn't come out exactly the same in

the recipe I've got, it sounds lovely and will be fun to play with.

So the owner of the original recipe I'm trying to duplicate probably used

synthetic lily of the valley oil, maybe even the rest of the oils were

synthetic. He made the stuff in large quantities and I think that the cost of

natural ingredients would have been out of his price range.

Tonie

[Guest guest]

>> Hi Tonie:

>> Welcome back! Lily of the valley is one of those delicate flowers that

>> can't be distilled, unfortunately. I don't know if anyone has had success

>> extracting the scent with other methods, but I found this old formula in my

>> notes:

>>

>> Imitation Lily of the Valley

>> ½ pint extract of tuberose

>> 1 oz extract of jasmine

>> 2 oz extract of orange flowers

>> 3 oz extract of vanilla

>> ¼ pint extract of cassie

>> ¼ pint extract of rose

>> 3 drops otto of bitter almonds

>>

>> HTH,

>> Cat

Cat, what would you use for the otto of bitter almonds? I've

never seen this, perhaps it isn't available anymore. I'd

probably use natural isolate benzaldehyde, diluted way down. I

see that Isabelle posted earlier today, asking about natural

perfumery businesses in this economic climate. I haven't smelled

it, but I believe she used old formulas such as this to create a

lily of the valley doppelganger. Isabelle, if you read this, can

you share? Not your formula, because I know you labored long on

that, and everything is not meant to be given away, but perhaps

some tips?

Anya McCoy

http://AnyasGarden.com

http://PerfumeClasses.com

http://NaturalPerfumers.com

[Guest guest]

> Cat, what would you use for the otto of bitter almonds? I've

> never seen this, perhaps it isn't available anymore. I'd

> probably use natural isolate benzaldehyde, diluted way down. I

> see that Isabelle posted earlier today, asking about natural

> perfumery businesses in this economic climate. I haven't smelled

> it, but I believe she used old formulas such as this to create a

> lily of the valley doppelganger. Isabelle, if you read this, can

> you share? Not your formula, because I know you labored long on

> that, and everything is not meant to be given away, but perhaps

> some tips?

Hi Anya:

The formula was one I jotted down years ago and didn't credit the author

(shame, shame!) Maybe Dussauce or Piesse?

In any case, you are probably right; the oil of bitter almonds would

probably have to be benzaldehyde, since I don't think you can get the true

oil anymore.

Cat

[Guest guest]

Cat, what would you use for the otto of bitter almonds? I've

never seen this, perhaps it isn't available anymore. I'd

probably use natural isolate benzaldehyde, diluted way down. I

see that Isabelle posted earlier today, asking about natural

perfumery businesses in this economic climate. I haven't smelled

it, but I believe she used old formulas such as this to create a

lily of the valley doppelganger. Isabelle, if you read this, can

you share? Not your formula, because I know you labored long on

that, and everything is not meant to be given away, but perhaps

some tips?

Anya McCoy

 

Anya,

 Liberty has bitter almond oil.  I thought about getting some, but you have to

register with the DEA to get it. ( I think you have to register with DEA to get

benzaldehyde too).

 I copied that formula from Piesse I think. I've never tried it, but I played

around with other essences to achieve a lily of the valley doppleganger, and it

came out pretty good.  I did use benzyl acetate, but with what you told me

about that isolate......

 

[Guest guest]

Hi Anya, Cat and everyone in the Natural perfumery group,

 

Lily of the Valley always was one of my favourite flowers. I did a lot of

research to try to reproduce as closely as possible the scent of the flower and

I came up with a Lily of the Valley which many English people praised me for. I

found an old French recipe dated 1809 for the creation of a Lily of the Valley

pommade. The basics was as follows:

 

- 4 oz of purified lard (a blend of mutton and beef grease prepared in advance)

- 1 oz of rose pommade (wax)

- 1 oz of reseda (a yellow flower from the south of France similar to mustard)

- 4 oz of cassia pommade

- 4 oz of jasmine pommade

-  a couple of drops of musc and amber essence

- 2 drops of rhodia essence (rhodia is a greek root plant that smells like rose

- the closest to it nowadays would be rosewood)

 

Because most of the ingredients from this recipe cannot be found in the market

today, I had to play around with what was available. I have replaced the musk

and amber with natural extract of bitter almond (found in any supermarket in the

dessert section) - I have used all the essences from Piesse's recipe (the one

mentioned by Cat below) except Cassie which I have replaced with Mimosa (which

is from the same family but a bit less expensive than Cassia); I also found that

Peru balsam was better than vanilla as it gives the necessary sweetness to the

Lily of the Valley (you can play around with the doses until you reach the smell

you need). The result is a freshly cut Lily of the Valley smell. When you put it

on your skin, it lingers around for a long time.

 

>> ½ pint extract of tuberose

>> 1 oz extract of jasmine

>> 2 oz extract of orange flowers

>> 3 oz extract of vanilla

>> ¼ pint extract of cassie

>> ¼ pint extract of rose

>> 3 drops otto of bitter almonds

 

I hope these tips will help everybody.

 

Kind regards

Isabelle Gellé

www.lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk  

[Guest guest]

Isabelle mentioned - " 2 drops of rhodia essence (rhodia is a greek root

plant that smells like rose - the closest to it nowadays would be

rosewood) "

For some reason that got my curiosity up and I found a little website

from a grower of rhodiola rosea in Finland, a more modern name for

rhodia radix. I found it very interesting.

http://personal.inet.fi/koti/sini.marjanen/rreng.htm

<http://personal.inet.fi/koti/sini.marjanen/rreng.htm>

best regards,

in AZ

[Guest guest]

1/2 oz. Ylang Complete EO

1 oz. Bergamot EO

1/8 oz. Rose Otto/Ruh Gulab

1/2 oz. Jasmin grandiflorum Abs

1 oz. Magnolia Lily CO2 Select

2 oz. Cabreuva EO

1 oz. White Champa Leaf EO

1/4 oz. incense co2

1/4 oz. White Champa Flower CO2

1/16th oz. Galbanum EO

1/4 oz. Tagetes eo

1/4 oz. Davana eo

1/4 ounce Ylang absolute

This formula is from White Lotus aromatics.

I have played around with a few versions of this although never with the

magnolia lily or the white champa Leaf. It is quite nice.