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>

> Felicia,

> Maybe this will help. First of all what do you mean by 'pre-prepared accords?

One that you have made? The accord you mentioned mixing to be based on a

carnation note is not a top, midde, or base accord it is all three. Pepper is a

top note, vanilla is bottom and rose and most florals are mid notes. The way I

have learned this, and I am relatively new at this, is that you make your base

accord, then drop by drop put in your middle notes and carefully put in the top

notes based on a creation you have imagined like maybe a carnation note? I

don't know how to do that because carnation has a very green smell to me. It

isn't a strong floral but I am sure someone else in this group could jump in

here to help you further. There are a lot of files here in this database to

read and they have helped me a great deal. Learning what all the smells of each

oil is quite helpful and then you can learn how they blend together a little at

a time. Or you can use the scent strips to see if things go together. Hope this

helps you,

> Good luck,

> Stefanie

>

I understand the general method for making perfumes...

I'm talking about using an accord, that you make yourself and that you then add,

drop by drop, to a blend, as you would a single essence. This is something

typically done with amber, but you can also do it with something like a

carnation accord, or a fruit accord or what have you.

I read somewhere that some perfumers don't like to use pre- blended accords

across more than one perfume like that, it's limiting maybe, I'm not sure why.

Anyways...

Thanks for trying!

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>

>

> I understand the general method for making perfumes...

>

> I'm talking about using an accord, that you make yourself and that you

> then add, drop by drop, to a blend, as you would a single essence.

> This is something typically done with amber, but you can also do it

> with something like a carnation accord, or a fruit accord or what have

> you.

>

> I read somewhere that some perfumers don't like to use pre- blended

> accords across more than one perfume like that, it's limiting maybe,

> I'm not sure why. Anyways...

>

There are many different ways to approach blending and pre-blending

accords is one of them.

The problem with this is that they will change when you combine

different accords as all the different ingredients interact with each

and you cannot predict the outcome.

I use both accords and step by step approaches...

but have also in the past had to strip a complete perfume back to it's

ingredients and re-assemble it one by one to work out which ingredients

were clashing and creating a note I didn'ty want.

I blogged a bit about this last year:

http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com/2010/07/thoughts-on-natural-perfume-design.h\

tml

Ambrosia

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>

> There are many different ways to approach blending and pre-blending

> accords is one of them.

> The problem with this is that they will change when you combine

> different accords as all the different ingredients interact with each

> and you cannot predict the outcome.

>

> I use both accords and step by step approaches...

> but have also in the past had to strip a complete perfume back to it's

> ingredients and re-assemble it one by one to work out which ingredients

> were clashing and creating a note I didn'ty want.

> I blogged a bit about this last year:

>

>

http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com/2010/07/thoughts-on-natural-perfume-design.h\

tml

>

> Ambrosia

Ah, thanks Ambrosia, that really helps!

Felicia

>

>

>

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One useful aspect of making accords is that you can balance fewer ingredients in

each accord (top, middle, base) and, subsequently, balance the accords together

more easily in the total formula. I use accords when I have a problem isolating

which notes should dominate or if I lose notes (especially top notes) after they

interact with all the others. For example, make each accord (top, middle, base)

to your liking before you add them together, and you will probably like the

final fragrance better.

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  • 11 months later...

>

> One useful aspect of making accords is that you can balance fewer ingredients

in each accord (top, middle, base) and, subsequently, balance the accords

together more easily in the total formula. I use accords when I have a problem

isolating which notes should dominate or if I lose notes (especially top notes)

after they interact with all the others. For example, make each accord (top,

middle, base) to your liking before you add them together, and you will probably

like the final fragrance better.

>

I was playing around tonight trying to make a blueberry accord. So far there is

a harsh opening I haven't been able to get rid of (on the one I like best so

far), but it goes nice on the skin after and smells like blueberries for a bit

before fading down to vaguely fruity sweetness.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

The main toys I have been using for the diffrent trials that seem to be working

are: Davana, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Mimosa, a touch of black currant, a

very very small amount of golden champa, and a bit of a light sugary feeling

vanilla I have.

I don't have a ton of resources yet, and am planning on trying the accord out

with different things once I get it more reliable.

Also, how long does something like that have to age on its own to know how

reliable it will be? Or is that impossible to know until its blended?

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>

> I was playing around tonight trying to make a blueberry accord. So far there

is a harsh opening I haven't been able to get rid of (on the one I like best so

far), but it goes nice on the skin after and smells like blueberries for a bit

before fading down to vaguely fruity sweetness.

>

> Does anyone have any recommendations?

> The main toys I have been using for the diffrent trials that seem to be

working are: Davana, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Mimosa, a touch of black

currant, a very very small amount of golden champa, and a bit of a light sugary

feeling vanilla I have.

--------------------------------------------------------

Hi There - The first additions that came to my mind were a touch of Litsea

Cubeba and Jasmine sambac....Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata also does a nice

job of masking harsh front notes...just a tiny trace though (so its not

perceptable as cedar.)

Jess Ring

Portland OR USA

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>

>

> >

> > I was playing around tonight trying to make a blueberry accord. So far there

is a harsh opening I haven't been able to get rid of (on the one I like best so

far), but it goes nice on the skin after and smells like blueberries for a bit

before fading down to vaguely fruity sweetness.

> >

> > Does anyone have any recommendations?

> > The main toys I have been using for the diffrent trials that seem to be

working are: Davana, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Mimosa, a touch of black

currant, a very very small amount of golden champa, and a bit of a light sugary

feeling vanilla I have.

> --------------------------------------------------------

>

> Hi There - The first additions that came to my mind were a touch of Litsea

Cubeba and Jasmine sambac....Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata also does a nice

job of masking harsh front notes...just a tiny trace though (so its not

perceptable as cedar.)

> Jess Ring

> Portland OR USA

>

Ooo thank you for the ideas! I have sambac (and will try that out tonight) but

don't have either of the other two. Do you have any sources (especially for the

cedar) that you recommend in particular? One thing I've been really surprised by

thus far into my short hobby is just how different the same oil can smell from a

different source!

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>

>

> >

> > I was playing around tonight trying to make a blueberry accord. So far there

is a harsh opening I haven't been able to get rid of (on the one I like best so

far), but it goes nice on the skin after and smells like blueberries for a bit

before fading down to vaguely fruity sweetness.

> >

> > Does anyone have any recommendations?

> > The main toys I have been using for the diffrent trials that seem to be

working are: Davana, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Mimosa, a touch of black

currant, a very very small amount of golden champa, and a bit of a light sugary

feeling vanilla I have.

> --------------------------------------------------------

>

> Hi There - The first additions that came to my mind were a touch of Litsea

Cubeba and Jasmine sambac....Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata also does a nice

job of masking harsh front notes...just a tiny trace though (so its not

perceptable as cedar.)

> Jess Ring

> Portland OR USA

>

Hello,

I don't know your mix quantity, but if you isolated 3mls - I'd try mixing 2

drops Palmarosa, 3 drops Benzoin with 3 drops Petitgrain, and let that sit

quietly for a week or two, then blend slowly and carefully in with your mix.

Just a hunch... might do the trick.

regards

Teone

http://www.teone.com.au

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>

> Hey teone, just browsing your website! LOVE the embrossed brass tins younhave

for your solid perfumes!! Where did youmfind them? Have been searching for

something like that for ages!!!

>

> Website: http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

>

> Blog: http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

>

Hi Ambrosia,

I bought them from an Indian Import company called Padma, they're here in

Brisbane, (Australia) and they sell groovy Indian clothes and masala incense and

carved knick knacks and bells and Tibetan singing bowls and carved wooden

furnishings and heaven knows what else... I had a shop called OM (set in a

little village deep in the rainforest on top of a beautiful mountain, it was

really scenic and touristy), and so I have been a wholesale buyer with them for

about 12 years. They don't do international orders unfortunately and they don't

even have a website. Also, I bought all of the brass box stock that they had,

and it's all filled with perfumes now, but when they get some more stock in I'll

let you know and maybe I can buy some for you and post it to you. I'm not

totally happy with them, they are hinged and they tilt backwards when I'm

filling them with hot wax so they can be a little fidgety to get the solid

perfume to set flat.

They do look nice though. I'll keep my eye out for you next time I'm at Padma.

cheers

Teone

http://coconutdurden.wordpress.com

http://www.teone.com.au/five-nectars

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>

> Hey teone, just browsing your website! LOVE the embrossed brass tins younhave

for your solid perfumes!! Where did youmfind them? Have been searching for

something like that for ages!!!

>

> Website: http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

>

> Blog: http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

>

Hi Ambrosia,

I bought them from an Indian Import company called Padma, they're here in

Brisbane, (Australia) and they sell groovy Indian clothes and masala incense and

carved knick knacks and bells and Tibetan singing bowls and carved wooden

furnishings and heaven knows what else... I had a shop called OM (set in a

little village deep in the rainforest on top of a beautiful mountain, it was

really scenic and touristy), and so I have been a wholesale buyer with them for

about 12 years. They don't do international orders unfortunately and they don't

even have a website. Also, I bought all of the brass box stock that they had,

and it's all filled with perfumes now, but when they get some more stock in I'll

let you know and maybe I can buy some for you and post it to you. I'm not

totally happy with them, they are hinged and they tilt backwards when I'm

filling them with hot wax so they can be a little fidgety to get the solid

perfume to set flat.

They do look nice though. I'll keep my eye out for you next time I'm at Padma.

cheers

Teone

http://coconutdurden.wordpress.com

http://www.teone.com.au/five-nectars

PS I just had a quick look at your website and realise that you're also in Oz,

so I can easily send you some when they restock. Funny thing is I noticed

straightaway your Pan perfume, because I'm rereading Jitterbug... I read it many

years ago and recently picked it up again. Life's a funny thing

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> > I was playing around tonight trying to make a blueberry accord. So far

there is a harsh opening I haven't been able to get rid of (on the one I

like best so far), but it goes nice on the skin after and smells like

blueberries for a bit before fading down to vaguely fruity sweetness.

> > Does anyone have any recommendations?

Try adding a touch of sandalwood and a bit of jasmine (not too much, you

don't want it to turn " powdery " ) to the vanilla to give it a warm, almost

" brown sugar " nuance. Maybe even a bit of balsam Peru...

Also, aging the blend a few weeks usually helps mellow out any harsh notes.

Cat

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> Hey teone, just browsing your website! LOVE the embrossed brass tins

younhave for your solid perfumes!! Where did youmfind them? Have been

searching for something like that for ages!!!

Be careful using brass containers to hold your perfumes. The copper in the

alloy often oxidizes over time and can give the perfumes a greenish or black

tint around the edges where it comes into contact with the metal.

Cat

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