The trouble with fixatives

[Guest guest]

Hi everyone, I'm writing again about my search for a fixative that will lend

longevity to my mix. I'm working on a fresh, clean, citrusy, hesperides unisex

cologne, not too feminine, and even though I've searched the files in the group

for an appropriate answer, I gave myself a monster headache looking. I'm not as

advanced as most of you, and its not that I'm unwilling to do my research, I

just can't find what I need. Please help before I go totally nuts!

Oh, one more question..my essential oils, perfumers alcohol and distilled water

always cloud, any solutions? Every website and online tutorial pushes

chemicals...

Thanks a ton!

Isis in Miami

[Guest guest]

I think walnut is a lovely neutral scent that might help balance some blends.

But, then, are fixative from animals?

" isis.gindi " wrote:

>Hi everyone, I'm writing again about my search for a fixative that will lend

longevity to my mix. I'm working on a fresh, clean, citrusy, hesperides unisex

cologne, not too feminine, and even though I've searched the files in the group

for an appropriate answer, I gave myself a monster headache looking. I'm not as

advanced as most of you, and its not that I'm unwilling to do my research, I

just can't find what I need. Please help before I go totally nuts!

>Oh, one more question..my essential oils, perfumers alcohol and distilled water

always cloud, any solutions? Every website and online tutorial pushes

chemicals...

>Thanks a ton!

>Isis in Miami

>

[Guest guest]

 

Hi everyone, I'm writing again about my search for a fixative that will lend

longevity to my mix. I'm working on a fresh, clean, citrusy, hesperides unisex

cologne, not too feminine, and even though I've searched the files in the group

for an appropriate answer, I gave myself a monster headache looking. I'm not as

advanced as most of you, and its not that I'm unwilling to do my research, I

just can't find what I need. Please help before I go totally nuts!

Oh, one more question..my essential oils, perfumers alcohol and distilled water

always cloud, any solutions? Every website and online tutorial pushes

chemicals...

Thanks a ton!

Isis in Miami

Fixatives for citrusy, fresh blends are always problematic for all NPers.  The

trick is finding base notes and fixatives that keep the light, fresh character

of these blends while adding longevity.  So many base notes are deep, rich,

heavy-which is why they last so long.  The lightest, freshest base notes I know

of are cognac, green and black tea, frankincense, Siamwood, and cassie. 

Sandalwood can be rather light too, although woody.  Unfortunately, other than

the sandalwood and Siamwood, these base notes aren't as tenacious as some

others, like patchouly for instance.  Now that is the bassiest of base

notes!   I've heard mention that clary sage has fixative properties, although

it is considered a heart note. I've heard this of orris as well.  Oakmoss, if

used lightly might be nice too add to this blend.   incense is nice with

citrus and is quite nice with a lot of other notes, although my favorite use of

it is for Orientals and woody

fragrances.

 I never add any water to my blends for exactly that reason, although I've been

tempted to try using hydrosols, and I've heard of others on here that have no

problem with clouding when they add water.  Sorry, not sure what to tell you

about that one.

. 

[Guest guest]

Fixatives for citrusy, fresh blends are always problematic for all NPers.  The

trick is finding base notes and fixatives that keep the light, fresh character

of these blends while adding longevity.  So many base notes are deep, rich,

heavy-which is why they last so long.  The lightest, freshest base notes I know

of are cognac, green and black tea, frankincense, Siamwood, and cassie. 

Sandalwood can be rather light too, although woody.  Unfortunately, other than

the sandalwood and Siamwood, these base notes aren't as tenacious as some

others, like patchouly for instance.  Now that is the bassiest of base

notes!   I've heard mention that clary sage has fixative properties, although

it is considered a heart note. I've heard this of orris as well.  Oakmoss, if

used lightly might be nice too add to this blend.   incense is nice with

citrus and is quite nice with a lot of other notes, although my favorite use of

it is for Orientals and woody

fragrances.

.

I read somewhere recently (sorry can't recall the source at the moment) that

labdanum is an excellent fixative for citrus oils.

Jane

[Guest guest]

Hi everyone, I'm writing again about my search for a fixative that will lend

longevity to my mix. I'm working on a fresh, clean, citrusy, hesperides unisex

cologne, not too feminine, and even though I've searched the files in the group

for an appropriate answer, I gave myself a monster headache looking. I'm not as

advanced as most of you, and its not that I'm unwilling to do my research, I

just can't find what I need. Please help before I go totally nuts!

Oh, one more question..my essential oils, perfumers alcohol and distilled water

always cloud, any solutions? Every website and online tutorial pushes

chemicals...

Thanks a ton!

Isis in Miami

**********************************

 

Hi Isis,

 

You already have some really good ideas, hit on a lot of them in his post.

 

One other suggestion I would add that I haven't seen yet is Copiaba Balsam. 

This is a very light in scent aromatic that has some good fixative qualities. 

Paired with a citrusy encense, it may be a good fit for your formula from

what you are describing.  I would also look at Elemi, though that is more of a

middle note, but again has a nice citrus quality, not too heavy in its own

scent.  The suggestion for Cognac EO is also a nice one, not too overwhelming,

can be supportive for the lighter brighter scents. 

 

Glycerine, in small quantities, may also help with fixation.

 

You may also consider using some perfumer's tinctures in the formula to add some

additional depth and fixation.  Some tinctures will reveal themselves in the

top, middle, base, or all of the above.

 

Animalistics can also be considered for fixation, but they don't really " fix "

the scent in the traditional way, but instead they seem to change the way the

scent evolves and how the notes play out.

 

As to the question for adding water to your blend, water can make a blend turn

cloudy very fast.  In several posts by Anya and others, I have seen it said to

add it drop by drop, as even one drop can take a clear blend to cloudy.  Just

how much water have you been adding to how much alcohol?  What proof or

percentage is your perfumer's alcohol?

 

Some aromatics can do that as well, but will the mix will usually clear up upon

sitting after a while.  Copiaba Balsam was specifically mentioned in the group

recently for doing that.

 

Chilling and filtering have been referenced as a way to try to clear up a mix

that went cloudy from too much water in the blend.

 

Best of luck,