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Re: Absolutes

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> > There is just one in there that won't play quite as nicely with the

> > others...wonder if you'll pick which one!

> >

> > Ambrosia

> > http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

> > http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

> >

> > Is it the Patchouli??? :)

> >

>

> Actually no, not at all. Patchouli is a surprisingly friendly oil that

> plays well with almost everything...used in small amounts....It's one of

> my favourite oils!

>

> Ambrosia

> > ._,___

>

Is it the palmarosa?

kate gavin

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> Have you had any experience with a company called New Directions?

Actually, their bottles and jars are really expensive. Cospak or

Plasdene are much better!

Ambrosia

Cool, thanks :) Something else to research...yay!!

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,

Search through the messages for New Directions. There was a discussion about it

a couple (i think) of months ago.

______

Will do, thanks - didn't think to check there first....

xo

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Matheson wrote:

> Hhhhhmmmm.....

> Is it the Cedarwood? Surely not the vetiver....

>

> _G

>

Nope, grin!

Ambrosia

You're a tease, Ambrosia! Which is the one that won't play nice!!!???

:)

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Matheson wrote:

> You're a tease, Ambrosia! Which is the one that won't play nice!!!???

> :)

>

>

Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

me completely, grin!

It has wierd, aldehydic and medicinal notes that will clash with most of

the other oils you have on the list unless you use it very carefully and

in small amounts!

(In my opinion, any blend would be made better by leaving it out

alltogether, but that's just my personal taste.)

On the other hand, working with it would probably be a good excersise

because you will be able to see how different oils magnify different

aspects of this oil.

Ambrosia

http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

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Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

me completely, grin!

It has wierd, aldehydic and medicinal notes that will clash with most of

the other oils you have on the list unless you use it very carefully and

in small amounts!

(In my opinion, any blend would be made better by leaving it out

alltogether, but that's just my personal taste.)

On the other hand, working with it would probably be a good excersise

because you will be able to see how different oils magnify different

aspects of this oil.

Ambrosia

http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

Clary Sage...to be honest, I've never really liked it either (I bought some

years ago for aromatherapy purposes but just never really got into using it

much). I thought it must be one of those oils that brings out good stuff in

other oils...but I guess I'll just have to tinker around with it. Maybe it just

needs something very 'pretty' to go with it...don't think it's possible for it

to ever play a starring role...

Thanks for finally putting me out of my misery!!!

:)

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> Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

> me completely, grin!

> It has wierd, aldehydic and medicinal notes that will clash with most of

> the other oils you have on the list unless you use it very carefully and

> in small amounts!

> (In my opinion, any blend would be made better by leaving it out

> alltogether, but that's just my personal taste.)

>

> On the other hand, working with it would probably be a good excersise

> because you will be able to see how different oils magnify different

> aspects of this oil.

>

> Ambrosia

> http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

>

I don't remember where I've read this, but I have in my perfume journal from

years ago that Patchouli cross-reacts with Peru Balsam, Benzoin and synthetic

Jasmine. I haven't done any experiments to test this, but I suppose I should.

I wish I had written down the reference.

-RuhKewda

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> Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

> me completely, grin!

And I've been reading that some grand Poo-Pah perfumer says that almost every

perfume can be made better, by adding some amount of clary sage...

I'm sure that ideas and preferences, as well as qualities of raw materials all

come into play...

Pueblo

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>

>

> > Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

> > me completely, grin!

> > It has wierd, aldehydic and medicinal notes that will clash with most of

> > the other oils you have on the list unless you use it very carefully and

> > in small amounts!

> > (In my opinion, any blend would be made better by leaving it out

> > alltogether, but that's just my personal taste.)

> >

> > On the other hand, working with it would probably be a good excersise

> > because you will be able to see how different oils magnify different

> > aspects of this oil.

> >

> > Ambrosia

> > http://perfumebynature.blogspot.com

> >

>

>

> I don't remember where I've read this, but I have in my perfume journal from

years ago that Patchouli cross-reacts with Peru Balsam, Benzoin and synthetic

Jasmine. I haven't done any experiments to test this, but I suppose I should.

I wish I had written down the reference.

>

> -RuhKewda

>

I googled " patchouli cross reacts with peru balsam, benzoin and synthetic

jasmine " and found a link to " A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients,

which states that Cinnamic acid cross reacts with Peru Balsam, Benzoin.

Cinnamic acid is found in pathouchi and synthetic jasmine. Could this be the

reference you quoted, RuhKewda?

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>> Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

>> me completely, grin!

>>

> And I've been reading that some grand Poo-Pah perfumer says that almost every

perfume can be made better, by adding some amount of clary sage...

>

> I'm sure that ideas and preferences, as well as qualities of raw materials all

come into play...

>

> Pueblo

HI :

I don't know who that is, but I'll bet the person is British. They like

a fresh herbal scent in perfumes (some, of course, only generalizing).

Anya McCoy

http://AnyasGarden.com

http://PerfumeClasses.com

http://NaturalPerfumers.com

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To: NaturalPerfumery

From: anya@...

Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 14:11:44 -0400

Subject: Re: Re: Absolutes

HI :

I don't know who that is, but I'll bet the person is British. They like

a fresh herbal scent in perfumes (some, of course, only generalizing).

Hi everyone

I remember when I learned aromatherapy in Paris, I was taught that Clary sage

was a fixative for perfumes.

I think it figures also in all my French books!

I was not making perfumes at the time so I could not check it.

And now, as I do'nt like the smell too much, I'm not going to use it either!

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> I googled " patchouli cross reacts with peru balsam, benzoin and synthetic

jasmine " and found a link to " A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients,

which states that Cinnamic acid cross reacts with Peru Balsam, Benzoin.

Cinnamic acid is found in pathouchi and synthetic jasmine. Could this be the

reference you quoted, RuhKewda?

>

>

:

If that is referencing Ruth Winter's book, that could very well be it. Thank

you for looking that up! I have to go find my book now and see if that reference

is from her and write that in my journal.

I also have always understood that Clary Sage is one of those 'bridger' oils...

not that great on its own, but excellent to help meld oils and blends that may

not be working quite well together.

-RuhKewda

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>

> :

> If that is referencing Ruth Winter's book, that could very well be it. Thank

you for looking that up! I have to go find my book now and see if that reference

is from her and write that in my journal.

>

> I also have always understood that Clary Sage is one of those 'bridger'

oils... not that great on its own, but excellent to help meld oils and blends

that may not be working quite well together.

>

> -RuhKewda

>

Yes, Ruth Winter's book, it is.

Of course, now I feel compelled to try using Clary Sage in a blend. I love a

good blend of florals and woods with just a touch of an herb note.

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________________________________

To: NaturalPerfumery

Sent: Fri, August 6, 2010 3:07:19 AM

Subject: Re: Absolutes

 

Clary Sage...to be honest, I've never really liked it either (I bought some

years ago for aromatherapy purposes but just never really got into using it

much). I thought it must be one of those oils that brings out good stuff in

other oils...but I guess I'll just have to tinker around with it. Maybe it just

needs something very 'pretty' to go with it...don't think it's possible for it

to ever play a starring role...

Thanks for finally putting me out of my misery!!!

:)

**********************************************************************

Hi all,

I've got two Clary Sages, one from Eden and one from A Little 'Ol Factory. They

are really different but I like both of them. I think Clary Sage appeals to

those who like a fresh green herbaly type smell. It's an element in my Spring

Meadow body oil, along with lavender abs, coriander, and carrot seed. It seems

to play pretty well with those kids. Although I note that Spring Meadow is the

least popular scent in the line, so maybe you're on to something there. Maybe it

would do well in a fougere type of perfume?

 Patty

Ganache for Lips

http://www.ganacheforlips.com 

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>

>

>

>

> > I googled " patchouli cross reacts with peru balsam, benzoin and synthetic

jasmine " and found a link to " A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients,

which states that Cinnamic acid cross reacts with Peru Balsam, Benzoin.

Cinnamic acid is found in pathouchi and synthetic jasmine. Could this be the

reference you quoted, RuhKewda?

> >

> >

>

>

> :

> If that is referencing Ruth Winter's book, that could very well be it. Thank

you for looking that up! I have to go find my book now and see if that reference

is from her and write that in my journal.

>

> I also have always understood that Clary Sage is one of those 'bridger'

oils... not that great on its own, but excellent to help meld oils and blends

that may not be working quite well together.

>

> -RuhKewda

>

" pathouchi " ? ha! oops :-)

RuhKewda, The reference is listed under Cinnamic Aldehydes and Cinnamic Acid.

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I have a tiny bit of clary sage in my Verdigris perfume. I can't really smell

it but it shows up in the herbal top note and I think it also helps hold the

green-ness throughout.

The reviewers for this perfume had very different responses to it. One couldn't

get past the clary sage 'blast' for a while and yet others enjoyed it quite a

bit.

My feelings about clary sage vary quite a bit, sometimes I love it and sometimes

it just lasts too long and is too much.

Elise

bellyflowers.com

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I have a tiny bit of clary sage in my Verdigris perfume. I can't really smell

it but it shows up in the herbal top note and I think it also helps hold the

green-ness throughout.

The reviewers for this perfume had very different responses to it. One couldn't

get past the clary sage 'blast' for a while and yet others enjoyed it quite a

bit.

My feelings about clary sage vary quite a bit, sometimes I love it and sometimes

it just lasts too long and is too much.

Elise

bellyflowers.com

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> >> Clary Sage. And you'll probably find that others here will disagree with

> >> me completely, grin!

> >>

> > And I've been reading that some grand Poo-Pah perfumer says that almost

every perfume can be made better, by adding some amount of clary sage...

> >

> > I'm sure that ideas and preferences, as well as qualities of raw materials

all come into play...

> >

> > Pueblo

>

> HI :

>

> I don't know who that is, but I'll bet the person is British. They like

> a fresh herbal scent in perfumes (some, of course, only generalizing).

>

>

> Anya McCoy

> http://AnyasGarden.com

> http://PerfumeClasses.com

> http://NaturalPerfumers.com

>

That would be Poucher in his three volume set. He seemed a bit fanatical about

it. I have smelled an antique Clary Sage at Mandy Aftel's studio that was/is one

of the most amazing scents ever. Almost hallucinigenic. Aged absolutes can

become a whole 'nother ball game.

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>

That would be Poucher in his three volume set. He seemed a bit fanatical about

it. I have smelled an antique Clary Sage at Mandy Aftel's studio that was/is one

of the most amazing scents ever. Almost hallucinigenic. Aged absolutes can

become a whole 'nother ball game.

*********

namaste!

actually, clary sage is hallucinogenic, or at least euphoric. it has a history

of being used in alcoholic beverages, although some say this induces nightmares.

this, of course, comes from an AT perspective.

i remember the first time i used it, in preparation for a daily run. i was told

it would help with shin splints, and after dutifully applying it to my les, i

stood up and fell over giggling.

i use it for immediate calming effects in massage application and for a nutty

aroma in perfume blends.

much light, einsof (the heretofore missing in action.)

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>

> Clary sage....

>

> Smelled the concrete from White Lotus years ago and fell in love ,

> smelled the EO and was back in an aromatherapy class nightmare. (No

> dis on AT, but you know how bad they can get after the 15th sample)

> It is one of those things that depend on So much on how it was

> created. Anyone grow it? recommendations on type to grow?

>

> Used to make a calming womens blend with Clary sage concrete and

> Helichrysum .

>

>

> Katlyn Breene

> Mermade Magickal Arts (since 1984)

> katmermade@...

> http://www.mermadearts.com/

Katlyn:

That's interesting! I've never tried the concrete, only the EO, which I use for

post-running/hiking bath salts, and in an AT blend with frankincense and

lavender. I'll have to ask for a sample next time I make a White

Lotus purchase, thanks for the heads-up!

-Marla

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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>

> Hi,

>

> I've been lurking for quite a few months. Reading,taking notes and

> becoming interested in many aspects of perfumery. I have not tried

> anything yet but I have purchased a few essential oils and absolutes,

> hoping to try something soon. My questions are pertaining to absolutes

> and diluting. I understand that they must be dissolved in oil or

> alcohol but how do you determine how much oil or alcohol? I've heard

> 50% ,20% and 10% dilutions. How do you decide on percentage? Is this

> for safety concerns? I know these questions may sound silly, but being

> a newbie, better safe than sorry. I've looked on the internet and

> read a few books without coming away with anything except what

> absolutes are.

> I hope someone can help.

>

> Teannia

Hi Teanniia

learn the individual ingredients first how they perfom on a paperstrip.

Udo

>

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Hi Teannia,

I'm probably not the best one to answer your question as I rarely dilute

absolutes, but I smiled when I read your question and Udo's reply as it's a

question I may have asked once, and may not have understood the reply. Just in

case you were still trying to figure out how to dilute your absolutes . . . What

Udo is recommending is that you try adding a drop or two of each of your

absolutes to a scent strip and noting how long they last. Those that last the

longest and smell the strongest could perhaps be more heavily diluted than those

that disappear more quickly.

A few absolutes that I find stronger, and may lend themselves better to dilution

are: violet leaf, hay, cepes, oakmoss, angelica, kewda, linden blossom. Some of

these are difficult to work with accurately without being diluted as they are

sticky.

Most often absolutes are not diluted for safety concerns, but more for cost

effectiveness. Most absolutes smell better when diluted in alcohol than when

smelled out of the bottle. However, if you are making an alcohol/oil based

perfume you are diluting your absolutes when adding them to the base. It all

depends on how much you want to pre-dilute them. Also remember it's better to

dilute them conservatively, than to dilute them too much. You can always add

more alcohol later, but you can't take it away.

I hope this helps a little.

Charna Ethier

Providence Perfume Co.

http://www.providenceperfume.com

info@...

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