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I made the mistake of my life putting a red cedar shake roof on my house--turns

out I am allergic to the wood and the wood also emits pliatic acid which

exacerbate asthma. In the heat of the day, you can really smell it inside of

the house. wood also becomes moldy eventually.

freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...> wrote: I suffer from

chemical and mold injury for starters.

I've been struggling all summer trying to find some safe materials I

can use on my house and detached garage. I live in the Northeast,

and I am going to need some materials appropriate to that climate. I

have limited funds for this project.

First of all, I need to replace the shingles on the sunroom of my

house. There is a third roof of asphalt shingles which needs to

replaced. Is there anything I can use besides asphalt shingles that

will be safer for me? I cannot tolerate petroleum products,

tar,VOC's, vinyl, or pine, etc. However, since it's a third roof, I

don't know if the new shingles will affect me in the attic. The

sunroof is off my bedroom.

Additionally, while I have some roof vents covered with screens in my

attic, I do not have any soffit vents, which my roofer has said I

need in order to ventilate the attic properly. I have a problem with

the air outside one side of the attic, due to my neighbor using toxic

fabric softeners and dryer sheets. Her dryer vent faces that side of

the house, so I am worried about have soffit vents over there.

Other people have suggested I use an attic fan to ventilate. However,

when I had mold remediation done an outgoing fan was put in my

basement for the purpose of shifting the flow of the air in the house

from going up instead of down, so I'm afraid an attic fan would

change the airflow, which I don't want to happen.

My garage with an attached shed is made of concrete blocks, and I

believe some of it may be cinder block. I've had some of it patched

with cement on the inside, but it probably needs more work. The

garage has a flat roof, but the shed is slanted. The roof and the

wood underneath have been leaking a lot for several years. Due to

illness and other issues, I have not been able to replace it in a

timely manner. The garage is very moldy, and since I have problems

with mold, I cannot go in there.

The last roof was a rolled one, and it was wrecked after a short

number of years. I would like to know if there are any roofing

materials that I might be able to tolerate better. Additionally, I

would like to clean up the mold inside the garage if possible. I

cannot tolerate bleach, and I don't have any air cleaners. Someone

suggested I power hose in there and someone else suggested a regular

hose. A third person said that's the last thing I should do. If I

don't get this together, I'll never be able to go in there, and later

if I have to sell it, I will need to have the roof intact.

Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!

NY State

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soffit vents: just put then on the remaining sides that need them.

also I would suggest having at least the turbines which remove air whenever

the wind is blowing.

shingles for the sunroom: there are aluminum shakes, tiles, etc. but these have

always been outside my price range. I used the regular shingles on 2 prior

houses and did not experience a problem. It sounds as if you will not require

new decking. If you do, however, I understand there is a foil backed plywood

for this purpose.

garage::I know yours--I have a similar leaning one in my backyard and I keep

the door closed at all times. regarding cleanup--you could try hydrogen

peroxide or misting a solution of boric acid and water. I am clueless other

than to tell you to be careful and hire an inexpensive handyman to do the work.

please do only one part of this work at a time so as to not overload your

living enviornment.

freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...> wrote:

I suffer from chemical and mold injury for starters.

I've been struggling all summer trying to find some safe materials I

can use on my house and detached garage. I live in the Northeast,

and I am going to need some materials appropriate to that climate. I

have limited funds for this project.

First of all, I need to replace the shingles on the sunroom of my

house. There is a third roof of asphalt shingles which needs to

replaced. Is there anything I can use besides asphalt shingles that

will be safer for me? I cannot tolerate petroleum products,

tar,VOC's, vinyl, or pine, etc. However, since it's a third roof, I

don't know if the new shingles will affect me in the attic. The

sunroof is off my bedroom.

Additionally, while I have some roof vents covered with screens in my

attic, I do not have any soffit vents, which my roofer has said I

need in order to ventilate the attic properly. I have a problem with

the air outside one side of the attic, due to my neighbor using toxic

fabric softeners and dryer sheets. Her dryer vent faces that side of

the house, so I am worried about have soffit vents over there.

Other people have suggested I use an attic fan to ventilate. However,

when I had mold remediation done an outgoing fan was put in my

basement for the purpose of shifting the flow of the air in the house

from going up instead of down, so I'm afraid an attic fan would

change the airflow, which I don't want to happen.

My garage with an attached shed is made of concrete blocks, and I

believe some of it may be cinder block. I've had some of it patched

with cement on the inside, but it probably needs more work. The

garage has a flat roof, but the shed is slanted. The roof and the

wood underneath have been leaking a lot for several years. Due to

illness and other issues, I have not been able to replace it in a

timely manner. The garage is very moldy, and since I have problems

with mold, I cannot go in there.

The last roof was a rolled one, and it was wrecked after a short

number of years. I would like to know if there are any roofing

materials that I might be able to tolerate better. Additionally, I

would like to clean up the mold inside the garage if possible. I

cannot tolerate bleach, and I don't have any air cleaners. Someone

suggested I power hose in there and someone else suggested a regular

hose. A third person said that's the last thing I should do. If I

don't get this together, I'll never be able to go in there, and later

if I have to sell it, I will need to have the roof intact.

Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!

NY State

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Can you use a tarp to (temporarily) block the leaks?

By all accounts, attic ventilation is important. Both high and low, to

encourage convection.

Also, make sure your living space is sealed from the attic.. this will

be important once the cold weather starts.. to keep moisture out..

(otherwise it will condense on cold outer surfaces if there isn't

enogh ventilation..)

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yes metal is a great alternatve for you but it can be expensve. just do not put

cedar on it no matter what you do.

LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote: You could always install a

metal roof.. it lasts a long time, its

reflective and very eco-friendly..

__________________________________________________

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Yes, thanks. Unfortunately, I cannot afford metal. No, I won't use

cedar.

You could always

install a metal roof.. it lasts a long time, its

> reflective and very eco-friendly..

>

>

>

>

>

> __________________________________________________

>

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The leaky roof is in my detached garage, not the house. The whole

thing is destroyed now.

I use my attic all year to store things I use frequently, so I really

can't seal it off. It is not heated or finished.

Thanks for your reply.

______________________________________

--- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...>

wrote:

>

> Can you use a tarp to (temporarily) block the leaks?

> By all accounts, attic ventilation is important. Both high and low, to

> encourage convection.

>

> Also, make sure your living space is sealed from the attic.. this will

> be important once the cold weather starts.. to keep moisture out..

> (otherwise it will condense on cold outer surfaces if there isn't

> enogh ventilation..)

>

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,

I have read all the post in this thread. Two days ago you asked for help with

a long list of things you needed to do. All the sudden it sounds as if you are

frustrated which I fully understand. I hate to say it but you have been given

some good advice and I sense you are not able and/or like any of the advice you

have gotten. It also sounds like you have gotten allot of other suggestions

which contradict each other.

It also sounds like your garage all the sudden fell down or something but for

future information whoever told you not to spray the mold with any water is VERY

correct. From personal experience never use water in any form, high pressure or

a hose to clean mold, all you will do is feed it and spread it everywhere. Also

be glad you cannot handle bleach. I have watched mold grow in a bowl of pure

bleach. I also recommend to never use bleach. Even if you use one of those

chemicals that claim to be a mold cleaner that you mix with bleach. It does not

work and again you are simply feeding it.

I don't know what your situation is but it sounds like if you can you might

really want to use another area or room instead of the attic for your things you

often use. It sounds like this would solve allot of your problems without

spending any money. If that is not possible I am not sure what kind of advice

might help you in that situation.

Also again from personal experience I am against attic fans at all, especially

if you have a basement. All they do is pull everything from the ground up into

your living space from dust to any other problem you have or might have in the

future. Especialy if you are useing the attic. I also agree with you that it

will disrupt whatever airflow you have set up now.

I wonder if it is possible for you to finish the attic if you have to use it

often, that might solve some problems as well. It seems that if you are

sensitive to allot of things that not haveing it finished might be adding to

your problems?

I don't know if this helps at all but I thought I would give it a shot anyway.

I wish you luck and hope your health improves soon.

Chris...

freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...> wrote:

The leaky roof is in my detached garage, not the house. The whole

thing is destroyed now.

I use my attic all year to store things I use frequently, so I really

can't seal it off. It is not heated or finished.

Thanks for your reply.

______________________________________

--- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...>

wrote:

>

> Can you use a tarp to (temporarily) block the leaks?

> By all accounts, attic ventilation is important. Both high and low, to

> encourage convection.

>

> Also, make sure your living space is sealed from the attic.. this will

> be important once the cold weather starts.. to keep moisture out..

> (otherwise it will condense on cold outer surfaces if there isn't

> enogh ventilation..)

>

Life is a balance of holding on and letting go...

---------------------------------

Get your email and more, right on the new .com

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On this board there is often discussion about the fact that mold gets into the

items inside of a house, etc. if the garage is especially, moldy, then most of

that stuff could not be stored inside your house. Nor would it be recommended

for them to be stored in the attic because it may be contaminated and surely

bringing things in from a moldy garage would really cause a mold situation

inside of your house. the items may have to go.

Tazin Round <unitedstatesvet@...> wrote: ,

I have read all the post in this thread. Two days ago you asked for help with a

long list of things you needed to do. All the sudden it sounds as if you are

frustrated which I fully understand. I hate to say it but you have been given

some good advice and I sense you are not able and/or like any of the advice you

have gotten. It also sounds like you have gotten allot of other suggestions

which contradict each other.

It also sounds like your garage all the sudden fell down or something but for

future information whoever told you not to spray the mold with any water is VERY

correct. From personal experience never use water in any form, high pressure or

a hose to clean mold, all you will do is feed it and spread it everywhere. Also

be glad you cannot handle bleach. I have watched mold grow in a bowl of pure

bleach. I also recommend to never use bleach. Even if you use one of those

chemicals that claim to be a mold cleaner that you mix with bleach. It does not

work and again you are simply feeding it.

I don't know what your situation is but it sounds like if you can you might

really want to use another area or room instead of the attic for your things you

often use. It sounds like this would solve allot of your problems without

spending any money. If that is not possible I am not sure what kind of advice

might help you in that situation.

Also again from personal experience I am against attic fans at all, especially

if you have a basement. All they do is pull everything from the ground up into

your living space from dust to any other problem you have or might have in the

future. Especialy if you are useing the attic. I also agree with you that it

will disrupt whatever airflow you have set up now.

I wonder if it is possible for you to finish the attic if you have to use it

often, that might solve some problems as well. It seems that if you are

sensitive to allot of things that not haveing it finished might be adding to

your problems?

I don't know if this helps at all but I thought I would give it a shot anyway. I

wish you luck and hope your health improves soon.

Chris...

freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...> wrote:

The leaky roof is in my detached garage, not the house. The whole

thing is destroyed now.

I use my attic all year to store things I use frequently, so I really

can't seal it off. It is not heated or finished.

Thanks for your reply.

______________________________________

--- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...>

wrote:

>

> Can you use a tarp to (temporarily) block the leaks?

> By all accounts, attic ventilation is important. Both high and low, to

> encourage convection.

>

> Also, make sure your living space is sealed from the attic.. this will

> be important once the cold weather starts.. to keep moisture out..

> (otherwise it will condense on cold outer surfaces if there isn't

> enogh ventilation..)

>

Life is a balance of holding on and letting go...

---------------------------------

Get your email and more, right on the new .com

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Thanks so much for all of your useful information. I really

appreciate your taking the time to write to me.

> I suffer from chemical and mold injury for starters.

>

> I've been struggling all summer trying to find some safe materials

I

> can use on my house and detached garage. I live in the Northeast,

> and I am going to need some materials appropriate to that climate.

I

> have limited funds for this project.

>

> First of all, I need to replace the shingles on the sunroom of my

> house. There is a third roof of asphalt shingles which needs to

> replaced. Is there anything I can use besides asphalt shingles that

> will be safer for me? I cannot tolerate petroleum products,

> tar,VOC's, vinyl, or pine, etc. However, since it's a third roof, I

> don't know if the new shingles will affect me in the attic. The

> sunroof is off my bedroom.

>

> Additionally, while I have some roof vents covered with screens in

my

> attic, I do not have any soffit vents, which my roofer has said I

> need in order to ventilate the attic properly. I have a problem

with

> the air outside one side of the attic, due to my neighbor using

toxic

> fabric softeners and dryer sheets. Her dryer vent faces that side

of

> the house, so I am worried about have soffit vents over there.

>

> Other people have suggested I use an attic fan to ventilate.

However,

> when I had mold remediation done an outgoing fan was put in my

> basement for the purpose of shifting the flow of the air in the

house

> from going up instead of down, so I'm afraid an attic fan would

> change the airflow, which I don't want to happen.

>

> My garage with an attached shed is made of concrete blocks, and I

> believe some of it may be cinder block. I've had some of it patched

> with cement on the inside, but it probably needs more work. The

> garage has a flat roof, but the shed is slanted. The roof and the

> wood underneath have been leaking a lot for several years. Due to

> illness and other issues, I have not been able to replace it in a

> timely manner. The garage is very moldy, and since I have problems

> with mold, I cannot go in there.

>

> The last roof was a rolled one, and it was wrecked after a short

> number of years. I would like to know if there are any roofing

> materials that I might be able to tolerate better. Additionally, I

> would like to clean up the mold inside the garage if possible. I

> cannot tolerate bleach, and I don't have any air cleaners. Someone

> suggested I power hose in there and someone else suggested a

regular

> hose. A third person said that's the last thing I should do. If I

> don't get this together, I'll never be able to go in there, and

later

> if I have to sell it, I will need to have the roof intact.

>

> Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!

>

>

> NY State

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Thank you very much for your thoughtful reply. You are right. I have

received all kinds of contradictory advice before I ever posted on

this message board. It is all quite confusing. I'm glad that you

understand the air flow issue. Another person who responded to my

message suggested that I use turbines to remove air from the attic

when the wind is blowing. I like that idea a lot, but do you think

that would change the air flow as well, since it wouldn't be runningn

all of the time?

How does one clean up mold, if water is out of the question? How

would I clean up the garage after the roof is up? Yes, the garage

roof is really a mess. Before I got my basement dehumidifier hooked

up to a pump which empties in my laundry sink, I used to clean out

the water bowl with hydrogen peroxide, and I would also spray it on

other areas of the dehumidifier. This is why I guessed that I might

be able to use it on the garage walls.

I've been disabled for about 20 years, and I do not have the funds to

make any major changes in the house. However, your idea about

finishing the attic was a good one. My health has improved a lot

since I made a few changes in my house, and I do okay keeping things

in the attic. I don't have room in the main part of the house for

them.

Do you think that foiled backed shingles are a good idea for the

garage? Someone suggested that in a message. I suggested using

Dennyfoil underneath the garage roof to keep the asphalt and backing

from getting into the garage, but my roofer said a vapor barrier is

not a good idea in case any moisture gets under the roof. She said it

would cause mold growth.

Thank you again for taking so much time to answer my post.

> >

> > Can you use a tarp to (temporarily) block the leaks?

> > By all accounts, attic ventilation is important. Both high and

low, to

> > encourage convection.

> >

> > Also, make sure your living space is sealed from the attic.. this

will

> > be important once the cold weather starts.. to keep moisture out..

> > (otherwise it will condense on cold outer surfaces if there isn't

> > enogh ventilation..)

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Life is a balance of holding on and letting go...

>

> ---------------------------------

> Get your email and more, right on the new .com

>

>

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How would one finish an attic? If I have vents,

I'd have to close them and then take forced air

vents up there?

--- freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...>

wrote:

> your idea about

> finishing the attic was a good one. My health

> has improved a lot

> since I made a few changes in my house, and I

> do okay keeping things

> in the attic. I don't have room in the main

> part of the house for

> them.

>

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Yes that's rite Barb,

Attics are only vented because the are not heated and cooled so there needs to

be a place for the air to go, but if you finish it off like you would do a

basement or something it would become a part of your home and would require you

to heat and cool it with the rest of the house but if your attic is big enough

to do this it is really neat when it is done. I personally love attic rooms, in

fact that is pretty much what I am in now at my parents home is the attic above

the garage. The ceilings are a little lower but I am a hermit (LOL) so I feel

nice and cozy.

Chris...

bbw <barb1283@...> wrote:

How would one finish an attic? If I have vents,

I'd have to close them and then take forced air

vents up there?

--- freshairseeker2 <freshairseeker2@...>

wrote:

> your idea about

> finishing the attic was a good one. My health

> has improved a lot

> since I made a few changes in my house, and I

> do okay keeping things

> in the attic. I don't have room in the main

> part of the house for

> them.

>

Life is a balance of holding on and letting go...

---------------------------------

All-new - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

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,

What I meant is that during the winter, moist, warm air from your

living space will condense on uninsulated outer attic walls - if it

can get into the attic. That will cause mold.

That is why people seal off their attics. Where it freezes, they go to

major lengths sealing off the attics..given the high cost of energy

these days.

That is basic building science. Look up the phrase " building envelope "

for more info.

To not seal off an uninsulated attic is to invite trouble if you live

somewhere where it gets cold during the winter. Uninsulated attics

should be vented to the outside..

Your stuff in the attic may get cold, but if there are not any leaks

in your roof, it should stay dry. If you can't deal with that, you

should bring it down to inside of the building envelope (where people

live) And keep that (insulated, I would hope) attic door shut!

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Just realized that you might read my comment wrong.. I meant seal well

between the living space and the attic.. *Not* seal up the attic

completely..

(attics need vents - to the outside)

For example, seal the tops of light fixtures, cracks in ceilings,

close attic doors, seal tops of walls, etc.

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Hi

Yes the attic is very large so would make a good

area to finish off but I won't do it since house

is double size I need, but another family

could/should do that here. It would make great

third floor. House kitty-corner from me has a

neat third floor/finished attic.

Only issue, if attic is finished you'd have to

INSULATE ceiling, right? If roof leaked, you'd

have problem there...but I guess if space is

being used, I guess you would see it earlier. In

case of this attic here, there is no floor and

noone goes up so problem existed and nobody knew,

no way to tell it until it becomes obvious

further down in house...not good. Basement was

obvious.

--- Tazin Round <unitedstatesvet@...>

wrote:

> Yes that's rite Barb,

> Attics are only vented because the are not

> heated

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Hello,

I've learned a lot from your post. I didn't know any of this. My

attic has roof vents in it. My attic has a door on it, but it is not

sealed.

Thanks for the information.

--- In , LiveSimply <quackadillian@...>

wrote:

>

> ,

>

> What I meant is that during the winter, moist, warm air from your

> living space will condense on uninsulated outer attic walls - if it

> can get into the attic. That will cause mold.

>

> That is why people seal off their attics. Where it freezes, they go

to

> major lengths sealing off the attics..given the high cost of energy

> these days.

>

> That is basic building science. Look up the phrase " building

envelope "

> for more info.

>

> To not seal off an uninsulated attic is to invite trouble if you

live

> somewhere where it gets cold during the winter. Uninsulated attics

> should be vented to the outside..

>

> Your stuff in the attic may get cold, but if there are not any leaks

> in your roof, it should stay dry. If you can't deal with that, you

> should bring it down to inside of the building envelope (where

people

> live) And keep that (insulated, I would hope) attic door shut!

>

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  • 3 weeks later...

I talked to someone who is an Energy Star

consultant about my attic and she said the age of

house is one that the attic and basement air

mixed with whole house, were not sealed off.

That explains alot of why I feel sick during the

summer since now we humidify air in winter and

warm humid air has been going up into attic.

Probably when they built the house, 1930's, they

didn't humidify the air in winter so it wasn't a

problem. Anyway, I'm off to seal up the attic!!!

What a way to learn things!

--- LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote:

> ,

>

> What I meant is that during the winter, moist,

> warm air from your

> living space will

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--my victorian is built that way too.I knew it but it just resently

dawned on me why the air testing picked up high amounts of stachy in

the basement when it was dry down there. because the mold from roof

leaks was filtering down inside the walls everytime it dried. than in

winter the steam heating system forced it back up again. weather it

was drifting down or being forced back up, it was filtrateing into

the rooms at the same time.- In , bbw

<barb1283@...> wrote:

>

> I talked to someone who is an Energy Star

> consultant about my attic and she said the age of

> house is one that the attic and basement air

> mixed with whole house, were not sealed off.

> That explains alot of why I feel sick during the

> summer since now we humidify air in winter and

> warm humid air has been going up into attic.

> Probably when they built the house, 1930's, they

> didn't humidify the air in winter so it wasn't a

> problem. Anyway, I'm off to seal up the attic!!!

> What a way to learn things!

>

> --- LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote:

>

> > ,

> >

> > What I meant is that during the winter, moist,

> > warm air from your

> > living space will

>

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If there was a mold problem in the past you will need to do much more than that.

You may want to read this paper (abstract below)

Sealing is important to reduce moisture infiltrating into the attic,

and fueling more mold growth.

But its NOT enough to prevent your continuing to get ill from past

mold growth's legacy in the attic if it has not been remediated

completely.

By removing all of it. If that means removing mold-infested wood..

i.e. removing parts of structural elements that then need to be

replaced, do it and get it over with.

>Indoor Air 2004; 14: 92–104 (vol 14, no 2, April 2004)

>

>M. Airaksinen1, J. Kurnitski1,

>P. Pasanen2, O. Seppnen1

>1Laboratory of Heating, Ventilating and Air-

>Conditioning, Helsinki University of Technology,

>Helsinki, Finland, 2Department of Environmental

>Sciences, University of Kuopio, Kuopio, Finland

>

>Fungal spore transport through a building structure

>

>Abstract The study carried out laboratory measurements with a

>full-scale timber frame structure to determine penetration of inert

>particles with size distribution from 0.6 to 4 um and spores of

>Penicillium and Cladosporium through the structure. Pressure

>difference over and air leakage through the structure were varied.

>Measurements at moderate pressure differences resulted in

>the penetration factors within the range of 0.05–0.2 for inert

>particles, and indicated also the penetration of fungal spores through

>the structure. The measurements showed that the penetration was highly

>dependent on pressure difference over the structure but not on holes

>in surface boards of the structure. The results show that surface

>contacts between the frames and mineral wool may have a significant

>effect on penetration. The penetration was approximately constant

>within particle size rage of 0.6–2.5 um, but particles with diameter

>of 4.0 um did not penetrate through the structure at all even at a

>higher-pressure difference of 20 Pa, except in the case of direct

>flow-path through the structure. Results have important consequences

>for practical design showing that penetration of fungal spores through

>the building envelope is difficult to prevent by sealing. The only

>effective way to prevent penetration seems to be balancing or

>pressurizing the building. In cold climates, moisture condensation

>risk should betaken into account if pressure is higher indoors than

>outdoors. Determined penetration factors were highly dependent on the

>pressure difference. Mechanical exhaust ventilation needs a special

>consideration as de-pressurizing the building may cause health risk if

>there is hazardous contamination in the building envelope exists.

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I don't know who you are talking to but if it is

me then yes, I will be remediating attic AFTER I

seal it off from house first. Winter should be

good time as air current should carry it up out

of vents rather than down into house, in addition

to preventing it from getting into house by

sealing it off.

The new features with are nice but now

nobody has any of previous post with email so a

little harder to follow for me.

--- LiveSimply <quackadillian@...> wrote:

> If there was a mold problem in the past you

> will need to do much more than that.

>

> You may want to read this paper (abstract

> below)

>

>

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Hi Jane,

When I said 'we humidify', I meant that as 'we,

the people', kind of thing, not 'me' ANY MORE. I

USED to humidify to 50% in winter or if it went

above, I thought it was okay. I think it is good

to humidify 'some' in winter as very dry winter

air will cause cracks to form in your mucous

membranes and then viruses and cold germs can get

into blood stream. That is why colds are called

'colds', because they happen in 'cold weather'

even though cold germs are present in our sinuses

year round. The dry winter air cracks your sinus

linings and lets those germs in and we get the

flu/ or winter cold. Since germs are present all

year round occasionally we will get 'summer

cold'.

Anyway, as in all things we see the negatives and

shift to the other extreme. Ideally having

living space humidified some that doesn't cause

condensation on windows, in walls, have to go the

trouble of consulting those 'recommended humidity

gauges that have temperature outside with

recommended humidity for inside. It's hard to

get right so I humidify very little now. HOWEVER

if attic is sealed off properly as it should be

humidity will be less a problem but still could

cause a problem if it gets into cracks in wall.

Furniture suffers in too low humidity, joints

loosening and also I've read that in very low

humidity conditions allergies may be worse since

everything can become AIRBORNE easier when things

are so dry. I would assume when air is so dry

lips crack, your sinuses are too. It's a fine

line to walk. In general I find indoor air

quality to be very difficult to understand and

apply correctly.

--- jane mosher <janeannmosher@...> wrote:

> Do you humidify the air in the winter? My

> doctor says never to do that as the humidifier

> breeds and spreads mold

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