Guest guest Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 depends on the size of your house and the weather conditions outside. you might want to get an extra one for inside of the house if you see the humidity creep up. they are loud (at least my units are obnoxious). be sure to clean the drainage bucket often as I see something black which could be from the motor but I am not taking any chances. I also let the bucket dry out in the sun for awhile. I hope this helps. barb1283 <barb1283@...> wrote: I have one dehumidifier running constantly in basement and one on first floor running constantly just to keep humidity below 50%. It seems weird to have TWO dehumidifiers running constantly just to keep humidity below 50%. It's only the beginning of summer. They are both Whirlpools and I bought sizes stated as appropriate for house size. I'm trying to decide whether to get an 'inline' dehumidifier, to put in ductwork like Therma Stor. Down side is that I hope to move in a year or so and isn't as easy to move with, as I would have to take it out of system and patch up holes in ductwork, etc. Does anyone use a stand alone that is powerful enough to keep humidity low without running CONSTANTLY to just keep it barely below 50%? It makes me think when it gets humid out in July and August it will not be able to keep up. --------------------------------- Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Barb, You always have such good questions! And this is a doozy. Dehumidification and drying are complex topics derived from the science of Psychrometry. Not " psycho, " but " psychro. " It is a COMPLEX topic because there are several variables that must be kept in balance and they don't change in a simple linear manner. I'm far from an expert here but I can say that some of the most heated debates I've witnessed in the industry are over this topic. What I can say is that under some combinations of temp, RH (relative humidity) and SH (specific humidity) you could have 100 dehumidifiers in your house and they would do no better than the 2 you already have. They might not even be as effective as opening the windows - IF the outside air is dryer than inside. (Warning: You can't just determine " drier air " with a simple comparison of the relative humidity of inside to outside. It is " relative " rather than " specific " for a reason: Temperature. 30% RH at one temperature will be 80% at another. You have to compare " specific humidity " ). Each of the 3 basic types of technology for dehumidifiers all work within fairly limited ranges of humidity and temperature. As the air gets dryer and at different temperatures the conventional dehumidifier (refrigerant, which is what you have) just can't remove any more moisture from the air no matter how many you have running. A different type, called a low-grain refrigerant dehumidifier is needed. To get it even drier you need a dessicant. As an example of the complexity, the newly released ANSI/IICRC S500 standard for water damage restoration has over 10% of its entire 370+ pages just on these topics. And it assumes you already have a basic knowledge. So before you invest in any more or different types, find a professional who does not sell equipment. They can give you the best guidance. As an alternative, do some Google research using the vocabulary I've used. Most of the hits are for equipment but some have excellent basic information. Be sure to Google " psychrometric chart " to begin to appreciate all this. That said, this knowledge in the hands of competent, trained professionals using the proper equipment quickly enough can remove water from the air, buildings and contents to stop water damage and prevent mold growth. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > I have one dehumidifier running constantly in basement and one on > first floor running constantly just to keep humidity below 50%. It > seems weird to have TWO dehumidifiers running constantly just to keep > humidity below 50%. It's only the beginning of summer. They are both > Whirlpools and I bought sizes stated as appropriate for house size. > > I'm trying to decide whether to get an 'inline' dehumidifier, to put > in ductwork like Therma Stor. Down side is that I hope to move in a > year or so and isn't as easy to move with, as I would have to take it > out of system and patch up holes in ductwork, etc. > > Does anyone use a stand alone that is powerful enough to keep humidity > low without running CONSTANTLY to just keep it barely below 50%? It > makes me think when it gets humid out in July and August it will not > be able to keep up. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Hi Carl, Your response sheds a lot of light on problem! I tune into the weather channel daily to see what humidity is outside. If it is 50% or below I open my fresh air intake for the day thinking I'm bringing in dry, fresh air, but humidity goes up anyway, and I have to run dehumidifiers all day anyway. You are explaining reason is that when air comes in and mixes with cooler air inside, it becomes more humid than it was outside. One really needs to take a course in keeping a home healthy!! It isn't so simple. The air in my house all winter long is so nice and fresh. I have the fresh air intake open all winter long and cold dry air comes in, mixes with inside air before it reaches furance, gets heated by furnace and then is distributed through rest of the house. House smells as fresh as outdoors all winter long. All summer though I have stuffy house, struggling to keep humidity down even though weather channel says it's beautiful, sunny and humidity 50% or less. So if I want that outside 45-50% humid air inside, I have to let inside temperature be the same as outside basically (or higher), but there isn't enough air circulation inside to feel as nice as outdoor. I have to get some fans going, and dust really well first!!! Ceiling fans would be great but I'm not going to make those changes in a house I plan to leave in the not too distant future. Thanks! --- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote: > > Barb, > > You always have such good questions! And this is a doozy. > Dehumidification and drying are complex topics derived from the > science of Psychrometry. Not " psycho, " but " psychro. " It is a COMPLEX > topic because there are several variables that must be kept in > balance and they don't change in a simple linear manner. I'm far from > an expert here but I can say that some of the most heated debates > I've witnessed in the industry are over this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Barb, Not only do you ask good questions, but you understand quickly. Therefore, you get the next lesson in humidity. When the pros determine whether to open windows or which dehumidifiers to use to dry wet buildings they base it on Specific Humidity, not Relative Humidity. Specific Humidity is based on weight of the water compared to weight of air instead of a comparision by percentage. Sounds weird, I know, but it works great. Specific humidity is measured in grains per pound (gpp) of dry air. For example, an RH of 50% will have 46 ggp at 65 degrees but 124 ggp at 95 degrees - nearly 3 times as much water! If it is 95 outside and 65 inside, then opening your windows would increase the water in the air in your house. In fact, it might make it rain inside your house because 124 ggp at 65 degress is above In fact, it would raise the RH inside to 100 percent at 74 degrees. At 65 degrees it would probably be raining. Ouch! Think it's impossible to rain inside a building? Maybe it won't rain in the living quarters but it certainly does in a cool crawlspace during high humidity. An you thought mold was complicated. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Hi Carl, > Your response sheds a lot of light on problem! I tune into the > weather channel daily to see what humidity is outside. If it is 50% > or below I open my fresh air intake for the day thinking I'm bringing > in dry, fresh air, but humidity goes up anyway, and I have to run > dehumidifiers all day anyway. You are explaining reason is that when > air comes in and mixes with cooler air inside, it becomes more humid > than it was outside. One really needs to take a course in keeping a > home healthy!! It isn't so simple. The air in my house all winter > long is so nice and fresh. I have the fresh air intake open all > winter long and cold dry air comes in, mixes with inside air before it > reaches furance, gets heated by furnace and then is distributed > through rest of the house. House smells as fresh as outdoors all > winter long. All summer though I have stuffy house, struggling to > keep humidity down even though weather channel says it's beautiful, > sunny and humidity 50% or less. So if I want that outside 45-50% humid > air inside, I have to let inside temperature be the same as outside > basically (or higher), but there isn't enough air circulation inside > to feel as nice as outdoor. I have to get some fans going, and dust > really well first!!! Ceiling fans would be great but I'm not going to > make those changes in a house I plan to leave in the not too distant > future. Thanks! > > > > Barb, > > You always have such good questions! And this is > a doozy. > Dehumidification and drying are complex topics derived from > the > science of Psychrometry. Not " psycho, " but " psychro. " It is a > COMPLEX > topic because there are several variables that must be kept > in > balance and they don't change in a simple linear manner. I'm far > from > an expert here but I can say that some of the most heated > debates > I've witnessed in the industry are over this topic. > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 OK, now ya got me listening in class... Sooooo, instead of using my cheapo RH meters (I am pretty sure that is what they are measuring - indoor/outdoor temp and indoor humidity -- darn things can't keep time) -- how do I track SH?? Maybe you said this in an earlier formula/class??? Can we try it again for us not so fast thinkers? I've got two crappy dehumidifiers -- one freezes over often and the other seems not wanting to shut off -- run and runs and runs (but it doesn't freeze). Both are older Gibson models. Thanks much. " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote: Barb, Not only do you ask good questions, but you understand quickly. Therefore, you get the next lesson in humidity. When the pros determine whether to open windows or which dehumidifiers to use to dry wet buildings they base it on Specific Humidity, not Relative Humidity. Specific Humidity is based on weight of the water compared to weight of air instead of a comparision by percentage. Sounds weird, I know, but it works great. Specific humidity is measured in grains per pound (gpp) of dry air. For example, an RH of 50% will have 46 ggp at 65 degrees but 124 ggp at 95 degrees - nearly 3 times as much water! If it is 95 outside and 65 inside, then opening your windows would increase the water in the air in your house. In fact, it might make it rain inside your house because 124 ggp at 65 degress is above In fact, it would raise the RH inside to 100 percent at 74 degrees. At 65 degrees it would probably be raining. Ouch! Think it's impossible to rain inside a building? Maybe it won't rain in the living quarters but it certainly does in a cool crawlspace during high humidity. An you thought mold was complicated. Carl Grimes Healthy Habitats LLC ----- > Hi Carl, > Your response sheds a lot of light on problem! I tune into the > weather channel daily to see what humidity is outside. If it is 50% > or below I open my fresh air intake for the day thinking I'm bringing > in dry, fresh air, but humidity goes up anyway, and I have to run > dehumidifiers all day anyway. You are explaining reason is that when > air comes in and mixes with cooler air inside, it becomes more humid > than it was outside. One really needs to take a course in keeping a > home healthy!! It isn't so simple. The air in my house all winter > long is so nice and fresh. I have the fresh air intake open all > winter long and cold dry air comes in, mixes with inside air before it > reaches furance, gets heated by furnace and then is distributed > through rest of the house. House smells as fresh as outdoors all > winter long. All summer though I have stuffy house, struggling to > keep humidity down even though weather channel says it's beautiful, > sunny and humidity 50% or less. So if I want that outside 45-50% humid > air inside, I have to let inside temperature be the same as outside > basically (or higher), but there isn't enough air circulation inside > to feel as nice as outdoor. I have to get some fans going, and dust > really well first!!! Ceiling fans would be great but I'm not going to > make those changes in a house I plan to leave in the not too distant > future. Thanks! > > > > Barb, > > You always have such good questions! And this is > a doozy. > Dehumidification and drying are complex topics derived from > the > science of Psychrometry. Not " psycho, " but " psychro. " It is a > COMPLEX > topic because there are several variables that must be kept > in > balance and they don't change in a simple linear manner. I'm far > from > an expert here but I can say that some of the most heated > debates > I've witnessed in the industry are over this topic. > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Hi Carl, Well thanks for the compliment (!!!) but I'll have to study this answer. Weighing a pound of air is something difficult to understand. Anyway, I get the general idea of cooling air increases humidity. Now, how to make peace with summertime in my house! I guess I'll just have to run the AC. At the end of the day to make it comfortable at night, I throw on a sweater and I turn the AC way down to kind of 'wring the water' out of the air, then afterward turn the temperature back to where I like it (about 75). Usually this works for the night since it is cooler outside and humidity is less. I guess I'll just continue to run the dehumifiers in the daytime to keep humidity less than 50% and at night do the routine above. By wringing the water out of the air at night, it allows the stand alone dehumidifiers to turn off for awhile and then we can listen to television or radio in some peace and quiet for awhile. I could experiment with shutting off the fresh air intake entirely to see how air feels but it made a huge difference in how fresh air smelled when I installed it. I can set it to be on constantly which is what I like but dehumidifiers cannot keep up when it is open all the time. So I have it set to open only when the AC kicks on, but even with that limited use, it does make it harder to keep humidity down in house. The only other option I see is to put in a whole house dehumidifier like the Therma Stor right into the ductwork. It has a fresh air intake opening that so fresh air would be dehumidified before it enters the home but it's about 1500.00. However the intakes aren't that large. For house the one is 10 inches I believe and the outside intake was 6 inches, so I assume it will only be dehumidifying a 'portion' of the indoor air since I'm pretty sure my cold air return intake is much larger than 10 inches. I have a 35 year old system though. Maybe today's have smaller cold air returns. I don't know. I was surprised by this. If I felt it would take ALL the indoor air and outdoor intake air and dehumidify the cost would be worth it. However just taking a portion of it and dehumifying it, I'm not sure it that would be worth it because perhaps my room dehumidifiers would still need to be run and that would be an awful lot of electricity. Oh well, that is where I am at. I wish I could get air in house in summertime to feel as good as it does in wintertime. It's a very old house. I'm sure it's full of spores and microbes of all sorts and keeping the humidity down is serious business right now since I'm not in good health. Now I know why you can make a career out of this. It's complicated stuff. --- In , " Carl E. Grimes " <grimes@...> wrote: > > Barb, > > Not only do you ask good questions, but you understand quickly. > Therefore, you get the next lesson in humidity. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 I just realized when I reread my below post that I am *assuming* humidity is less at night because it's cooler but following what you told me, it may not be less but higher. I don't know. I don't check on the humidity at night. I just assume it is lower since it's cooler and cooler air can't hold as much humidity but it has to hit a certain dew point to drop it's moisture, so I need to check with weather to see what humidity level is at night before turning my dehumidifier off and opening fresh air intake. Humidity level in house HAS always been above 50% when I wake up in the a.m. Maybe humidity was not low at all and the humidity level was creeping up all night long. Apparently the safest thing is just to leave dehumidifier on all the time, through the night and day also. I'm just so relieved when I hear it go off in the fall. I'm tired of the noise and it's a sign that summer is over and pretty soon air inside house will be crisp and fresh again. I wish there was a better way. I turn dehumidifier off at night since it is cooler outside and humidity is > less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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