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I recently obtained some ambrette seed oil (CO2 extracted)for the first

time...and find it incredibly dissapointing. Far from the exciting musky

scent I was hoping for, it is merely slightly nutty a bit like any nut

cooking oil. It's scent really isn't strong enough to be any kind of

base and I can't at present see what it would do to improve any other

oils either...it's just sort of weak and buttery....

So I thought I'd ask around and see if i've just got hold of a very

uninspiring lot, or if ambrette is really supposed to be like this.

(The company it came from is a small Australian one...and all the other

oils I purchased from them are very good quality)

Ambrosia

http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

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On Jun 30, 2008, at 4:34 PM, Ambrosia wrote:

> I recently obtained some ambrette seed oil (CO2 extracted)for the

> first

> time...and find it incredibly dissapointing. Far from the exciting

> musky

> scent I was hoping for, it is merely slightly nutty a bit like any nut

> cooking oil. It's scent really isn't strong enough to be any kind of

> base and I can't at present see what it would do to improve any other

> oils either...it's just sort of weak and buttery....

> So I thought I'd ask around and see if i've just got hold of a very

> uninspiring lot, or if ambrette is really supposed to be like this.

> (The company it came from is a small Australian one...and all the

> other

> oils I purchased from them are very good quality)

>

> Ambrosia

> http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

People talk about the floral aspects of ambrette. All I get is wet

concrete, and it doesn't change. It's a great neutral fixative, as it

last forever. I get no muskiness whatsoever, whatever muskiness in

fact smells like.

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Adam Gottschalk wrote:

> On Jun 30, 2008, at 4:34 PM, Ambrosia wrote:

>

>> I recently obtained some ambrette seed oil (CO2 extracted)for the

>> first

>> time...and find it incredibly dissapointing. Far from the exciting

>> musky

>> scent I was hoping for, it is merely slightly nutty a bit like any nut

>> cooking oil. It's scent really isn't strong enough to be any kind of

>> base and I can't at present see what it would do to improve any other

>> oils either...it's just sort of weak and buttery....

>> Ambrosia

>> http://www.perfumebynature.com.au

>>

>

> People talk about the floral aspects of ambrette. All I get is wet

> concrete, and it doesn't change. It's a great neutral fixative, as it

> last forever. I get no muskiness whatsoever, whatever muskiness in

> fact smells like.

Ambrosia, Adam - I'll answer you both here. I have found ambrette CO2s

and EOs rather boring. Some of the absolutes are quite powerful, musky,

soapy, creamy and round. All are a bit nutty, btw, and that nuttiness

can go rancid! Whatever version you have, mix a little 195 proof alcohol

in to help preserve it. The CO2 may have been produced for the flavoring

industry, as most CO2s are, and they wanted the nuttiness aspect.

If you get a strong absolute, or even better, a strong tincture that you

make yourself, you will see a difference in odor intensity and drydown,

the two factors you seem to be stating you're looking for. Adam is right

in that there is a bit of neutral fixative - in the weaker EOs, for

example. I smelled a perfume at WF the other day, and mercy, they just

filled that bottle with MA and it was strong and phew! Poor perfumery,

but showed the power of ambrette.

Tincturing the seeds is easy, inexpensive, and you can recharge them to

get a strong product. The tinctured whole seeds smell quite different

(floral musky) from the tinctured ground seeds - the latter are more nutty.

Adam, you may have a slight anosmia if you don't pick up on the musk -

if you are evaluating a strong absolute or tincture. MA contains

macrocylic musk, one of only two plant sources for it, and some folks

are anosmic to it. Others pick it up easily, so it's easy to overdose a

perfume. Also, it " grows " in a perfume.

Ambrosia, you may have trouble getting MA seed in AU. Check with herbal

suppliers there, and try to make your own tincture.

Used properly, the right MA can provide a smooth bridge between T/M/B

notes and truly fix and prolong the drydown.

--

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

1500+ member Natural Perfumery group -

/

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>

> Tincturing the seeds is easy, inexpensive, and you can recharge them to

> get a strong product. The tinctured whole seeds smell quite different

> (floral musky) from the tinctured ground seeds - the latter are more

nutty.

Has anyone tinctured musk mallow seeds? How does it compare to the

ambrette seed?

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wrote:

>In searching for Abelmoschus moschatus seeds I found both on somaluna.com,

>has anyone ordered from them?

Ambrette seeds (Abelmoschus moschatus) must be freshly harvested to be

usable by a perfumer. They seem to loose their strength quickly. You may

find a few sellers of it such as Soma Luna, but their seeds may not be so

fresh. The best and freshest Ambrette seeds that I have ever had were those

purchased from our List Mom, Anya, who sold them (Anya's Garden) a few years

ago. I am sure that if she were ever to sell them again, there would be a

big demand for them.

Anya, would you be able to get another supply of Ambrette seeds fresh from

India in the future? I'm sure they would sell out fast on the Group again

like last time.

Mark

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>

> I recently obtained some ambrette seed oil (CO2 extracted)for the

first time...and find it incredibly dissapointing. Far from the

exciting musky scent I was hoping for, it is merely slightly nutty a

bit like any nut cooking oil....<

Ambrosia,

I recently got some Ambrette CO2 also, from Liberty Naturals, as Anya

recommended them as a source for small amounts of aromatics for our

evaluations in her class. It's the only Ambrette I've ever smelled, so

not a lot of background experience to share here, but I find it quite

musky. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy and...well, it's musky, so

you can probably figure out what I mean ;) I haven't blended with it

yet, so I don't know its qualities in combination.

Interestingly, hubby can't smell anything in it at all: in the bottle,

he says he smells the bottle's cap; on a test strip, he smells the

paper, nothing else at all. He's a big fan of musk, also, which is

odd, but it must be as Anya pointed out & I've read about, that it's a

type that some people are anosmic to.

Anyway, the one I got is from Liberty Naturals, and it is labeled

" Indian Ambrette- Musk Select C02 " . Small, inexpensive amounts are

available, so you could try it without too much risk. I'm looking

forward to getting some fro other companies, I just really like it a

lot. Very much. Quite a bit.....hee hee!

-leavesofjoy/Micah

www.al-kemi.com

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