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HI,

I am studying perfumery with Mandy Aftel- level 2. I live in Australia. I am

interested in

distilling gardenia. Does anyone know how to do this or where I can get some

information

on this?

coco

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  • 11 months later...
Guest guest

>

> the true absolute of gardenia is rarely if ever available ~ the yield

is just too small for all

> the effort. > alex~

>

,

I can share my ordeal about gardenia since it is the flower I grew up

with in the Pacific. Trying to find true absolute gardenia has been a

real pain and I actually had to stop selling one of my perfumes

containing gardenia when I found out (with the great help of Anya) that

the one my supplier was selling was fake...

I finally sourced true gardenia absolute produced in a, Tahiti ,

hexane extraction of the flowers at..... $20 925 per kg!!They offered me

100 g at $2073... I am trying to negotiate the purchase of a smaller

quantity but I am not sure it will be possible...

All this to say that the truth is that when we, NP want to work with

pure and beautiful raw materials, the cost is prohibitive.

Unfortunately, this kind of price is only available to big perfume

houses who want even bother using such fine materials unless it is to

produce limited editions at a very high price....

I am DREAMING of being able to only work with the best materials and

gardenia is a dream I do hope to fulfill one day as I believe that for

creative natural perfumers, using the real Tahiti absolute of gardenia

tahitensis the result would be beautiful. I have no doubt however that

in a few years time, the price will go down as it seems that gardenia is

being sought more and more for perfumes and cosmetics...

Isabelle

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> >

> ,

>

>

>offered me

> 100 g at $2073... I am trying to negotiate the purchase of

> a smaller

> quantity but I am not sure it will be possible...

>

>

> Ithe real Tahiti absolute

> of gardenia

> tahitensis the result would be beautiful. I have no doubt

> however that

> in a few years time, the price will go down as it seems

> that gardenia is

> being sought more and more for perfumes and cosmetics...

>

> Isabelle

>

Hello Isabelle, and All

Gardenia is a truly georgeous perfumed flower....

I couldn't resist doing a touch of math.. if 25 people each bought 4 grams at

$82.92 it could be workable.... that would be for people like us,, around say

£42.00 and well worth it as far as I'm concerned...

If it could be worked out something like that or a little more ... count me in!

There was a thread earlier about some Guild members creating in Hawaii but it

probably isn't up or running yet.

Janita Haan Natural Perfume

__________________________________________________________

Sent from .

A Smarter Email http://uk.docs./nowyoucan.html

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> >

> >offered me

> > 100 g at $2073... I am trying to negotiate the

> purchase of

> > a smaller

> > quantity but I am not sure it will be possible...

> >

to continue my own thought thread... that would be $20.73 a gram... for which

maybe some people might like more or less.... you have paypal... if interested

parties let you know first and sent the money for you to pay with .... we could

all enjoy the benefits...! Have you sampled this though? or received a GMC? All

you would need to do is get people to contact you offline and see if enough

interested people would want to purchase some to the total amount needed.....

Janita

__________________________________________________________

Sent from .

A Smarter Email http://uk.docs./nowyoucan.html

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> to continue my own thought thread... that would be $20.73 a gram... for which

maybe

some people might like more or less.... you have paypal... if interested parties

let you

know first and sent the money for you to pay with .... we could all enjoy the

benefits...!

Have you sampled this though? or received a GMC? All you would need to do is get

people

to contact you offline and see if enough interested people would want to

purchase some

to the total amount needed.....

>

>

> Janita

Isabelle~

count me in as well, as long as sample & specs check out!

if it does, then i'd be willing to commit to 10 grams ;)

please keep us posted and thank you for bringing this to

light for all of us Gardenia fans!!!

Janita~

great idea re:paypal and offline coop!!

sure hope this comes to fruition! true Gardenia absolute would be an absolute

treasure in

our perfume organs!

~

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Janita wrote:

> to continue my own thought thread... that would be $20.73 a gram...

> for which maybe some people might like more or less.... you have

> paypal... if interested parties let you know first and sent the money

> for you to pay with .... we could all enjoy the benefits...! Have you

> sampled this though? or received a GMC? All you would need to do is

> get people to contact you offline and see if enough interested people

> would want to purchase some to the total amount needed.....

Hey, Janita, what's a GMC? Is that like the GC/MS we have here in the

States? I'd suggest testing by someone with the standard in their GC/MS

library.

--

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

1500+ member Natural Perfumery group -

/

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> Hey, Janita, what's a GMC? Is that like the GC/MS we

> have here in the

> States? I'd suggest testing by someone with the

> standard in their GC/MS

> library.

>

> --

> Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes,

>

> Oh well done Anya ... ah Its me!!! being slightly cuckoo on my word there!

GC/MS is exactly what I meant.. too funny...

> thanks for picking that up ... would have people wondering " wot the "

:-D... you know as I wrote that I thought .. that doesn't look right..but my

poor tired brain tonight wouldn't get into gear

>

>

>

> Natural Perfumery is the biggest, friendliest group with

> fantastic archives, files and links -- like an education,

> for free, with your best friends!

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>

> to continue my own thought thread... that would be $20.73 a gram...

for which maybe some people might like more or less.... you have

paypal... if interested parties let you know first and sent the money

for you to pay with .... we could all enjoy the benefits...! Have you

sampled this though? or received a GMC? All you would need to do is get

people to contact you offline and see if enough interested people would

want to purchase some to the total amount needed.....

>

>

> Janita

>

Hi Janita and everyone here,

Well it seems there is some synchronicity going on among us... as I was

actually thinking about a 'group purchase'. However, since I have never

used the supplier in a Tahiti, I have asked whether I could buy a

smaller quantity (10g) so that I can split it over all those NP who

might be interested and have a test of it. I am waiting for their reply.

Also they already mentioned to me that this gardenia absolute comes

with the technical data sheet and below are the components contained in

this absolute.

If anyone out there has got a botanical book or some book about

gardenia components, it would be great to know. Anya thinks that the

chemical breakdown of gardenia might be in some books somewhere (maybe

chemistry books who knows?). So here they are:

& #56256; & #56510; Cis benzoate- 3 Hexenyle

& #56256; & #56510; dihydroconiferyl acetate

& #56256; & #56510; Phenylethyle benzoate

& #56256; & #56510; Linalol

& #56256; & #56510; Methyl salicyclate

& #56256; & #56510; Cis Salicylate- 3 Hexenyle

& #56256; & #56510; Phenylethyle Salicylate

& #56256; & #56510; Benzyl Benzoate

& #56256; & #56510; Benzyl Salicylate

& #56256; & #56510; 2 nitroethane Phenyl

& #56256; & #56510; Phenylacetic aldehyde oxime

& #56256; & #56510; Pentacosane

& #56256; & #56510; Heptacosane

& #56256; & #56510; Tricosane

& #56256; & #56510; Squalenol

& #56256; & #56510; Long chain trienes

Well as Janita says it would be wonderful to be able to work with a

true gardenia... directly from the source in Tahiti! Waow!

Anyway, I'll keep you all informed about what the supplier says about

sending a small quantity for testing...

In the meantime, could the 'chemists/botanists' in the group help us

find out whether the above components are part of the gardenia plant??

Thanks to all

Isabelle

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janita wrote: > >

> >offered me

> > 100 g at $2073... I am trying to negotiate the

> purchase of

> > a smaller

> > quantity but I am not sure it will be possible...

> >

> to continue my own thought thread... that would be $20.73 a gram

You could count me in for 15-30 grams, fer sure...I have a perfume

hanging cause I can't get the real thing...

Blessings and joy in your journeys

Alwyn L'hoir

Blue Moon Perfume

http://www.quantumpeace.blogspot.com

http://www.acountrywomansjournal.blogspot.com

http://www.bluemoonperfume.com

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I know we're all excited but please keep a few things in mind:

1. Tahitian gardenia G. tahitiensis does not smell like " our " gardenia

G. jasminoides, the jasminoids is much more powerful, spicy, creamy.

2. The exchange rate on the USD :-(

That said, let's keep an open mind that it may be a great 'base' to

tweak with other aromatics to try to emulate our gardenia. We can start

a discussion on that.

I would suggest that the following are useful:

Jasmine sambac

Tuberose

Narcissus

A really greasy ambrette seed ;-)

Butter abs for milkyness

Cardamom for spiciness, maybe nutmeg co2

--

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

1500+ member Natural Perfumery group -

/

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>

>

> >

> > the true absolute of gardenia is rarely if ever available ~ the > I

am DREAMING of being able to only work with the best materials and

> gardenia is a dream I do hope to fulfill one day as I believe that for

> creative natural perfumers, using the real Tahiti absolute of gardenia

> tahitensis the result would be beautiful. I have no doubt however that

> in a few years time, the price will go down as it seems that gardenia

is

> being sought more and more for perfumes and cosmetics...

>

> Isabelle

>

I'm so glad I asked about gardenia - and pardon my ignorance for

thinking it was unobtainable (although quite difficult to actually

get!). I look forward to hearing the verdict on the Tahitian supplier

Jen

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Isabelle wrote:

> If anyone out there has got a botanical book or some book about

> gardenia components, it would be great to know. Anya thinks that

the

> chemical breakdown of gardenia might be in some books somewhere

(maybe

> chemistry books who knows?). So here they are:

>

> & #56256; & #56510; Cis benzoate- 3 Hexenyle

> & #56256; & #56510; dihydroconiferyl acetate

> & #56256; & #56510; Phenylethyle benzoate

> & #56256; & #56510; Linalol

> & #56256; & #56510; Methyl salicyclate

> & #56256; & #56510; Cis Salicylate- 3 Hexenyle

> & #56256; & #56510; Phenylethyle Salicylate

> & #56256; & #56510; Benzyl Benzoate

> & #56256; & #56510; Benzyl Salicylate

> & #56256; & #56510; 2 nitroethane Phenyl

> & #56256; & #56510; Phenylacetic aldehyde oxime

> & #56256; & #56510; Pentacosane

> & #56256; & #56510; Heptacosane

> & #56256; & #56510; Tricosane

> & #56256; & #56510; Squalenol

> & #56256; & #56510; Long chain trienes

Salut Isabelle,

In " Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps " , volume 1, " The Raw Materials of

Perfumery " by W.A. Poucher, 1976 edition, page 171, under the

heading, " Gardenia " he writes, " ...The chemistry of gardenia has been

investigated by E. Parone. He treated 250 kilos of fresh flowers by

maceration in liquid vaseline oil and shook out the essential oil

with absolute alcohol, obtaining a yield of 176 grams having a

yellowish color. He identified the following constituents:

benzyl acetate

styrolyl acetate

linalol

linalyl acetate

terpineol

methyl anthranilate

together with traces of benzoic acid as ester.

Although the chief constituent was benzyl acetate, the characteristic

odor was due to styrolyl acetate. "

Mark

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Mark (I) wrote:

>In " Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps " , volume 1, " The Raw Materials of

>Perfumery " by W.A. Poucher, 1976 edition, page 171, under the

>heading, " Gardenia " he writes, " ...The chemistry of gardenia has been

>investigated by E. Parone. He treated 250 kilos of fresh flowers by

>maceration in liquid vaseline oil and shook out the essential oil

>with absolute alcohol, obtaining a yield of 176 grams having a

>yellowish color. He identified the following constituents:

>benzyl acetate

>styrolyl acetate

>linalol

>linalyl acetate

>terpineol

>methyl anthranilate

>together with traces of benzoic acid as ester.

>Although the chief constituent was benzyl acetate, the characteristic

>odor was due to styrolyl acetate. "

Sorry Folks, I forgot to mention that this Gardenia experiment by E. Parone

was conducted using Gardenia jasminoides (formerly called Gardenia floridus)

whose common name is Cape Jasmine, which comes from the Cape of Good Hope in

South Africa where I believe it is a native. Anya is a jasmine specialist

and please correct me if I am wrong. Isabelle's Tahitian Gardenia would

most likely have a different chemical makeup due to the difference in its

fragrance (sorry, Isabelle). BTW, Isabelle, when you lived in Tahiti did

you ever see any of the Brando family? Didn't Marlon own a private island

in the Tahitian Island chain? Remember the scandal when his son killed his

sister's lover? That family is so strange!

Mark

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Anya wrote:

> I would suggest that the following are useful:

>

> Jasmine sambac

> Tuberose

> Narcissus

> A really greasy ambrette seed ;-)

> Butter abs for milkyness

> Cardamom for spiciness, maybe nutmeg co2

Anya,

In the two and one-half years that I have been a member of this

group, I have never seen you give out materials advice, though many

have asked, including me. Thank you very much for this very

important Gardenia materials suggestions. I would never have thought

of the Butter abs. for milkiness which our Cape Jasmine Gardenia

definitely has. Also, my guess is that you have listed these

materials in descending order of percentages beginning with the

largest percentage of the compound - Jasmine sambac abs. Again,

thank you for such important info.

It just so happens that I have been shopping quite frequently at my

local nursery which carries loads of Gardenias and I have been

pocketing a blossom each time I have been there in order to study its

fragrance (even with all my gardening experience, I can't get

Gardenias to bloom. I think they require very specific temperatures

in order to set buds.) From this study of the natural flower, I have

the intention of creating a natural imitation Gardenia compound and

then this thread happened. A happy coincidence! Who doesn't

absolutely love the smell of Gardenia!

Mark

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>

> Sorry Folks, I forgot to mention that this Gardenia experiment by

E. Parone

> was conducted using Gardenia jasminoides (formerly called Gardenia

floridus)

> whose common name is Cape Jasmine, which comes from the Cape of

Good Hope in

> South Africa where I believe it is a native. Anya is a jasmine

specialist

> and please correct me if I am wrong. Isabelle's Tahitian Gardenia

would

> most likely have a different chemical makeup due to the difference

in its

> fragrance (sorry, Isabelle). BTW, Isabelle, when you lived in

Tahiti did

> you ever see any of the Brando family? Didn't Marlon own a private

island

> in the Tahitian Island chain? Remember the scandal when his son

killed his

> sister's lover? That family is so strange!

>

> Mark

>

Hello ,

This is a really useful information piece. Indeed, I believe everyone

so far has been dealing with GARDENIA JASMINOID and as Anya said

rightly, it is a different and stronger smell and very often, made in

countries like India with many chemical additives.

This is why we are all so excited about the gardenia I sourced as it

is directly produced on the island of a in Tahiti and will

therefore be the GARDENIA TAHITENSIS, i.e. the real one which has a

very subtle addictive smell but definitely not as strong as the

jasminoid.

The good news is that I have ordered a sample of 15 g and it's now on

its way for testing and checking...

The Tahitian supplier did explain to me that it is one of the most

expensive absolutes around due to the small yield produced from the

extraction but one thing is sure: they have the flowers available on

site:):)

I am glad to see the interest for this from so many people and I have

already communicated this interest to the supplier, hoping that I can

negotiate the price a bit. This flower is part of my life having

grown up there and lived with Tahitian, always wearing a tiare flower

on my ear:):)

No I never met Marlon Brando. I think his island was Tetiaro, off

Papeete, a tiny island which I believe is about to become a kind of

sanctuary now... It sounds like Heaven!!

So let's wait for the verdict and the interest of all of you has been

noted...

Thanks a lot

Isabelle

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> fragrance (even with all my gardening experience, I

> can't get

> Gardenias to bloom. I think they require very specific

> temperatures

> in order to set buds.) From this study of the natural

> flower, I have

> Mark

>

>

Hi , Anya, Isabelle et All

Before Chrissie Wildwood moved..... in her room where she worked she had a

gardenia trailing up .... remarking how lucky she was and how beautiful ... I

remember her saying that gardenias hate drafts and will drop their buds ... the

room was light and warm..no drafts.. she also grew the jasmines in there very

well...

I hope this information is helpful to anyone that may want to grow this

beautiful flower .

Janita

__________________________________________________________

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Hello all,

Gardenia is a genus of about 250 species of flowering plants, having

different scents and different fragrant oils compositions. some have

the composition given by isabelle. some others have the one given by

david and others have:

E-ocimene, linalool, methyl benzoate, jasmine lactone,gamma

decalactone.

But is it worth paying $2000 for 100g?

How much expensive shall be a perfume having that oil?

Adulteration for such an expensive oil is very tempting for oil

producers. It is easy for a producer to use synthetics and give you

the same headspace when MS/GC tested. You need to have a refractometer

and to know the real refraction index of the material (not the one

given by the producer; he may give you a faked one) to be able to test

and confirm the purity of the oil your paying for.

It may be an effective alternative if one could find a substitute for

gardenia as Anya proposed.

An exemple: Ocimene can be found in lilac. Jasmine lactone in jasmine.

Linalool in lavender. Methyl benzoate in madagascar jasmine. Methyl

anthranilate, pentacosane, tricosane, heptacosane in broom. Gamma

decalactone in peach. Terpineol in pine...

antonin

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> Anya wrote:

> > I would suggest that the following are useful:

> >

> > Jasmine sambac

> > Tuberose

> > Narcissus

> > A really greasy ambrette seed ;-)

> > Butter abs for milkyness

> > Cardamom for spiciness, maybe nutmeg co2

> Anya,

>

> In the two and one-half years that I have been a member of this

> group, I have never seen you give out materials advice, though many

> have asked, including me. Thank you very much for this very

> important Gardenia materials suggestions.

Hi Isabelle, , Anya, Antonin, and all...

love this thread - I have been fascinated with experiments in reconstituting

Gardenia for several years now - it's one of the things that brought me into

this group

for the first time a few years ago.

If I may be so bold, I'd like to add to Anya's list the following materials....

Coconut absolute for another greasy/fatty and tropical note...

Galbanum eo - diluted way down for the green edge...

~

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>

> Hello all,

> Gardenia is a genus of about 250 species of flowering plants, having

> different scents and different fragrant oils compositions. some have

> the composition given by isabelle. some others have the one given by

> david and others have:

> E-ocimene, linalool, methyl benzoate, jasmine lactone,gamma

> decalactone.

> But is it worth paying $2000 for 100g?

> How much expensive shall be a perfume having that oil?

> Adulteration for such an expensive oil is very tempting for oil

> producers. It is easy for a producer to use synthetics and give you

> the same headspace when MS/GC tested. You need to have a refractometer

> and to know the real refraction index of the material (not the one

> given by the producer; he may give you a faked one) to be able to test

> and confirm the purity of the oil your paying for.

> antonin

Hi Antonin,

You have a point for sure. However the same question can be asked about

rose or any precious oils? Is it worth paying the price? My answer is

yes and a perfume made of these precious oils should be sold at a high

price...We are surely not talking about creating a line perfume with

this kind of oil. Only a very limited edition... And seeing the

enthusiasm in this discussion, it seems that Precious things have a

price... But this is a personal opinion.

Do you have a refractometer? I know you mentioned suppliers a while ago

but if you have one, would you then agree for me to send you some of

this gardenia tahitensis which is on its way to me from Tahiti and test

it for us? What quantity is needed for such a test?

I have ordered a sample and before moving things more, I definitely want

to ensure that everything is in order.

It would be great if you could be part of the testing of this gardenia

as you seem to have a great technical knowledge which I unfortunately

don't have.

With thanks

Isabelle

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Hello isabelle

I would like to help you in testing the gardenia absolute before you

pay a tidy sum for it.

I have a refractometer a russian type it has the following specs:

range 1.29 to 1.70 RI - 0 to 95 Brix

resolution 0.0001 RI - 0.01 BRIX

accuracy + or - 0.00004 RI - 0.03 BRIX

it has an electronic heating and cooling system for temperature

compensation range 15 to 100 C, it needs 4 ml to perform the test and

it suits well that task.

you are absolutely right, if one starts asking if it is worth to pay

such high prices for oils he will finaly end by not making perfumes.

antonin

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--- In , " Isabelle Gelle "

" Precious things have a

price... But this is a personal opinion. "

Isabelle, Antonin.... you are both so in tune!

isn't this why we choose 'OUD' over 'agarwood'????!

nature truly abhors a vacuum...

no Gardenia absolute...

finally, a possibility, even

though it's Gardenia T... fantastic!

if this pans-out... when the specs match the product... WOW!

if not, what's there to lose?! some trace adrenaline & a few dollars ?!!

Gardenia lovers in NP will keep macerating and infusing and searching as such...

and thank God, I'm not dependent on this for a living; My life's work will

publish soon...

~

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> >

> > Hello all,

> > Gardenia is a genus of about 250 species of flowering plants,

having

> > different scents and different fragrant oils compositions. some

have

> > the composition given by isabelle. some others have the one given

by

> > david and others have:

> > E-ocimene, linalool, methyl benzoate, jasmine lactone,gamma

> > decalactone.

> > But is it worth paying $2000 for 100g?

> > How much expensive shall be a perfume having that oil?

> > Adulteration for such an expensive oil is very tempting for oil

> > producers. It is easy for a producer to use synthetics and give

you

> > the same headspace when MS/GC tested. You need to have a

refractometer

> > and to know the real refraction index of the material (not the one

> > given by the producer; he may give you a faked one) to be able to

test

> > and confirm the purity of the oil your paying for.

>

> > antonin

>

>

> Hi Antonin,

>

> You have a point for sure. However the same question can be asked

about

> rose or any precious oils? Is it worth paying the price? My answer

is

> yes and a perfume made of these precious oils should be sold at a

high

> price...We are surely not talking about creating a line perfume with

> this kind of oil. Only a very limited edition... And seeing the

> enthusiasm in this discussion, it seems that Precious things have a

> price... But this is a personal opinion.

>

> Do you have a refractometer? I know you mentioned suppliers a while

ago

> but if you have one, would you then agree for me to send you some of

> this gardenia tahitensis which is on its way to me from Tahiti and

test

> it for us? What quantity is needed for such a test?

>

> I have ordered a sample and before moving things more, I definitely

want

> to ensure that everything is in order.

>

> It would be great if you could be part of the testing of this

gardenia

> as you seem to have a great technical knowledge which I

unfortunately

> don't have.

>

> With thanks

>

> Isabelle

>Hi Isabelle, this is the only way I can get through to you again. I

just wanted to say thank you for the answers. I will let you know

the results soon. Maybe in a few days this internet problem will

clear up. (does anyone else have the same problem emailing you?)

Take care, Kathy

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More gardenia info. I was trying to remember the new binomial

nomenclature for Gardenia jasminoides and it's G. augusta. Now, what the

difference is between that and G. grandiflorum is I'm not sure. I'm just

trying to tie it to the big, suffocatingly-fragrant gardenia we all know

and love. I went to Guenther's V. 5 for info and found out that in the

late 1930's - early 1940's there was a gardenia grower in Los Angeles

who had many surplus flowers and he did a " modified " enfleurage and

produced 50 lbs of absolute (swoon) but stopped because there was little

demand because of the industry turning to synthetics to make jasmine.

I don't have the time right now to copy all the names of the chems in

gardenia that signify it's a true gardenia, or the refractive indices

for Antonin, but I'll try later, unless somebody else with Guenther V. 5

(p. 355) wants to help.

Anyway, bottom line is this should be very encouraging to us all,

especially our two Hawaiian members who are very interested in getting a

gardenia enfleurage business going, since it's a prime growing region,

sure to have lots of " surplus " flowers.

We may find ourselves in possession of both the " regular " gardenia and

the Tahitian oils within a year - wouldn't that be great?

--

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

1500+ member Natural Perfumery group -

/

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Anya wrote:

> demand because of the industry turning to synthetics to make jasmine.

>

er, gardenia. Indoles on the brain!

--

Anya's Garden http://AnyasGarden.com - perfumes, aromatics, classes,

consultation

Natural Perfumers Guild + blog with daily updates

1500+ member Natural Perfumery group -

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