Re: Perfumed Soap

[Guest guest]

> Hi all!

> I thought I'd throw my own bit in on this subject. I prefer the hot

> process (HP) when it comes to creating a perufmed bar of soap.

> Although not always popular, I think this method is best for this

> purpose as do most of the OLD soap making manuals. Whether I re-

melt

> a cured batch or keep a tracing mixture on heat to fully saponify,

I

> like to be sure all the lye is neutralized before adding the

precious

> EO blend to the final product.

> iel

<snip>

We have an enormous amount of EO blends for soaping on the Asylum

forum, but it is not at all pricey to scent with EO... it's the EO

you use. Citrus will not last well, none of them. Orange is the most

difficult because you can't sub for it easily, but litsea cubensis

and lemongrass both hold extremely well in soap. Litsea is a scent

anchor for some hard to hold citrus like grapefruit also, and with

more limited success, orange. Tangerine holds up much better in soap

than sweet orange, but still requires several anchors, plus clay.

Peppermint holds up perfectly in soap, as well as all the resins,

particularly patchouli and vetiver. Anise, geranium (this will seize

CP... geranium is best used in HP), black pepper, clary sage,

chamomiles, sandalwood, lavenders (all kinds), cedarwood, bergamot

blended with a solid base like patchouli, basil, litsea, lemongrass,

vanilla (pricey, and always turns soap brown), spearmint, clove,

cinnamon (lightly, these 2 can be skin irritants) are the

basic 'staple' soap EO, and all blends thereof. Hope that helps.

Helen

www.zensoaps.com

[Guest guest]

helenae02 <helenae@...> wrote:

> Ungelled CP (ones that have been cooled to prevent gel) tend to be

> milkier and prettier actually. This is the type of soap most people

> will 'cure' for 8 weeks (tho that's far more time than required).

Prettier is in the eye of the beholder... I love the slightly

translucent look of a well gelled soap. I discount water pretty heavily,

and this seemed to lead to a denser, " finer grained " soap, which I love

the look and feel of.

Lara

[Guest guest]

> Hi Jane,(I can't type that name without thinking of spidermans

> girlfriend, I love the name, it's so cute)

> Now, down to the business of HP soap. Am I right in saying that with

> hot process you make it the same way as CP but you have heat under the

> pot? And then you keep cooing it afer it has reached trace? And then

> you let it cool while stirring? And then you add the EOs?

> Sorry for all the questions, you seem like you really know your stuff

> though? How long have you been making perfumed soap?

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

Hi Ruth, Thank You on the name, It was my GreatGrandmother's name and I love

it. As Butch says, it is one of those " suthourn " names. Hope I spelled

that right Butch.

Have been making perfumed soaps about 6/7 years. All of the arguments

thrown up about the oils and soap, even those that hit this morning, I never

quite believed so began my quest. Still don't believe them. I use the bain

marie method. Big/medium graduated stock pots. Make soap as in CP and when

you have trace(I like a stiff trace) I " go to the pot " with it and let it

cook. Once cooked I let it rest for a minute or two, stir, let it cool

until it is the right temp then do my add in's. I used the thermometer

forever until I was comfortable without. I don't discount the water because

with the cooking you get some evaporation and I like the ease of stirring.

I don't consider that I have made a perfume yet......close but not quite. I

keep going over what is the best carrier for the perfume to incorporate in

the soap. I am leaning toward the glycerine.

I hope this makes sense, I was up late polishing and wrapping soaps for a

show this weekend. The drying rack was full. Yes, technically HP is ready

to use but I put them on the drying rack for a while before I consider them

ready for use. I do this craft from my heart, I know the chemistry too but

heart comes first and no I won't ever be rich or famous.

Jane

www.adobesoapworks.com

[Guest guest]

>

.. Citrus will not last well, none of them. Orange is the most

> difficult because you can't sub for it easily, but litsea cubensis

> and lemongrass both hold extremely well in soap. Litsea is a scent

> anchor for some hard to hold citrus like grapefruit also, and with

> more limited success, orange. Tangerine holds up much better in soap

> than sweet orange, but still requires several anchors, plus clay.

>

> Peppermint holds up perfectly in soap, as well as all the resins,

> particularly patchouli and vetiver. Anise, geranium (this will seize

> CP... geranium is best used in HP), black pepper, clary sage,

> chamomiles, sandalwood, lavenders (all kinds), cedarwood, bergamot

> blended with a solid base like patchouli, basil, litsea, lemongrass,

> vanilla (pricey, and always turns soap brown), spearmint, clove,

> cinnamon (lightly, these 2 can be skin irritants) are the

> basic 'staple' soap EO, and all blends thereof. Hope that helps.

>

> Helen

> www.zensoaps.com

>

Thanks Helen, for all this great information. This list of EOs will most

certainly be able to create a nice perfume for soaps. I know I would not

have played with scenting soap long enough, to figure them all out on my

own. Mint, I know is indistructible, and makes a good summer product. I

wasn't aware of Sweet Orange's difficulties. Still a lovely scent. But

now I have all kinds of ideas of anchoring and " riding " it. LOL

Many, thanks again, ne

[Guest guest]

Trimmed for brevity

sblessinghww <sblessinghww@...> wrote:

I wasn't aware of Sweet Orange's difficulties. Still a lovely scent. But

now I have all kinds of ideas of anchoring and " riding " it. LOL

Many, thanks again, ne

Hi,

Have you tried folded oils. Orange oil in available 5 fold and 10 fold, it is

still all natural essential oil but the fragrance is much more tenacious.

Joe

[Guest guest]

--Snip--

> When I rebatch soap, I weigh the soap (cured and dried for a few

> weeks) and then I shred it. Multiply the weight by 20% (.20) - this

> is the weight in distilled water (or other liquid) that I use to melt

> the soap in. I rebatch in a crock pot on low heat. It takes several

> hours. I find I don't get too much shrinkage when I use a cured and

> DRIED soap stock with a 20% water weight addition.

OK my first problem solved, I was adding water by eye, like I would

grate down those huge green block of french olive oil soap and then ad

a cup or so of water (not distilled) per block, each block weigh 500g.

The thing I find with the oilive oil soap is that it has a strong

soapy smell of it's own which tends to over power any scent I add.

I have heard that there is no such thing as naturally " unscented soap "

anyway and they have to ad a chemical that takes out the natural clean

soapy smell! Well I never!

> Creamy colored soap requires 'white' (hahaha) oils and fats. Tallow

> and lard (gasp! yes, I use them too...), coconut, shea, and palm

> kernel just to name a few. Watch out for borage and hemp oils. They

> have short shelf lives and could potentially sour in a bar of soap

> that sits around too long. I'll email you off list with some white

> soap recipes.

I owe you one iel, I haven't had a chance to try the one I want

but I happen to have all the ingredients. So Maybe tonight if things

are not to MAD business wise.

> As for selling, I don't have a store front, website, etc. Just a few

> word of mouth customers here and there. I no longer live in an urban

> area, so the population is smaller and the economy is somewhat

> depressed. But the low volume keeps me happy every few weeks!!

> iel

Well I'd love to try some of your wares, if you would ever think of

selling me something, or maybe we could swap!

Best,

Ruth

http://www.whitewitch.ie

[Guest guest]

> Hi Ruth:). Here's the first photo illustrated DBHP directions on the

> net. It's pretty simple. I recommend a low olive formula to start, it

> will cook faster:

> http://www.zensoaps.com/hpsoap.htm

>

> Helen

>

Hey Helen,

Brilliant, I bookmarked that one, called it all I need to know about

HP soap making.LOl!

But your soap looks so yummy and white and then the colour looks so

pinky and not a bit " hippy " as my kids would say. " Is that hippy soap "

just because it's greeny brown.

BTW I had a look at your website the other day, and once I got over my

jealousy I was in awe of your creativeness. Your soaps are amazing.

The felt soaps really struck me. And the sushi soap. You're a genius.

I also had a look at your webdesin and graphics (more jealous pangs)

and have to pay to another compliment there as well. Fantastic work.

How long did it take you to get to that level with soap making and

graphic design? (I hope you don't mind me asking)

Ruth

http://www.whitewitch.ie

[Guest guest]

> Ungelled CP (ones that have been cooled to prevent gel) tend to be

> milkier and prettier actually. This is the type of soap most people

> will 'cure' for 8 weeks (tho that's far more time than required).

>

> Gelled CP which are insulated, or if the oils were warm to begin with,

> fully saponify and are useable within 48 hours, tho most soapers 'cure'

> this for 4 weeks, it is usually not as smooth as ungelled.

>

> There is a definite difference in the appearance of the product between

> the 2 forms of CP... gelled soaps tend to be more translucent

> (depending on oil combo). Many soapers do milk soaps ungelled (cooled,

> and sometimes even freezer), it's beautiful if you are careful about

> ash on top.

>

> Helen

Helen,

I made a cold process soap, my first one and I was worried because I

cut it after 24 hours. It cut well but Then I heard that if cut to

early or cooled to early it can stop the saponification process and

there might be some lye left behind.

So I put it in the oven.

Nut from what I am reading above it seems that it would have been fine

if I had just left it to cure. I did get ash on top though.

I am already using the soap. It was entirely experimental and I used

orange and ginger eos. I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see ginger

oil as an eo for soap.

Ruth

http://www.whitewitch.ie

>

[Guest guest]

> I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

> although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see

ginger

> oil as an eo for soap.

>

>

Hi Ruth!

I have noticed that most soapers here in the EU/UK are very careful

with their EO's they add, especially any possible irritants or

sensitisers. I can't say I blame them as the regulations are a real

nightmare.

I did consider in the past to sell my soaps, but I just haven't got

my head around going through with all the certification thingies that

are required, so we use them for family and friends only. A bit of a

waste really as I am at home all day.

BTW, your website looks absolutely adorable Ruth, love looking at the

stuff you sell!

Vita.

[Guest guest]

>

I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

> although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see ginger

> oil as an eo for soap.

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

> >

>

Hi Ruth,

I haven't seen ginger used either, but I made one batch CPOP with Ginger

(along with the sw Orange and a bit of Cinnamon leaf) I don't see reason

to worry - it gets less bad press then the citrus LOL Ginger is also

great as a detoxifier. I've used it since forever in baths, when we have

colds, or feel them coming on, just a few drops of the EO, or even some

of the powedered root. Just use with discretion, then there is nothing

to worry about. Real health hazard wise.

Gratulations on making your soap, too now. Isn't it fun?

ne

[Guest guest]

>

>

> I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

> although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see ginger

> oil as an eo for soap.

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

Hi Ruth

I bought a gorgeous hand crafted Ginger and Lime (I like to live

dangerously...<g>) soap at a craft fair. I loved it.

But now its gone

Don't know what else it had in it (ingredient wise) but it was a great soap.

LLx

[Guest guest]

Ruth,

Regarding the Ginger EO in soaps, I just checked the UK Wholesaler

where I get some of my oils from and they also stock about 20 different

Aromatherapy soaps.

They have a soap made with: EO's of lemon, ginger & sandalwood, with

added organic ginger root. So it is possible to do and it sounds

rather nice as well!

Not sure whether I can post links to commercial sites, so I left the

company's name out.

Vita.

[Guest guest]

> > Helen

> Helen,

> I made a cold process soap, my first one and I was worried because I

> cut it after 24 hours. It cut well but Then I heard that if cut to

> early or cooled to early it can stop the saponification process and

> there might be some lye left behind.

> So I put it in the oven.

> Nut from what I am reading above it seems that it would have been fine

> if I had just left it to cure. I did get ash on top though.

> I am already using the soap. It was entirely experimental and I used

> orange and ginger eos. I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

> although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see ginger

> oil as an eo for soap.

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

Hi Ruth:). Saponification is one of the most chemically robust

reactions in the world... you can't stop saponification. It's literally

the same process that you use to digest food in your stomach. It can

speed up, it can slow down, but it won't stop, not even in the freezer.

The reason some people say not to cut in 24 hours is likely because it

may not have fully gelled if you are a CP insulator (someone who wraps

their cp so it will undergo gel faster).

The translucence from gelling soap (insulating/putting in oven,

otherwise keeping it warm so the temp brings about complete

saponification faster) doesn't have to do with saponification per se...

you'd think it did because you can visually watch it occur in HP or

insulated CP as a sort of brown/translucent spot that grows til it

incompasses the entire log/flat/mold. But the discoloration you are

watching occur is sort of a by-product of saponification (because even

chilled soap goes through saponification, the results just look

different), and a mild oxidation from the bubbling action produced by

fast saponification. Hope that makes sense.

Cutting has no effect, because it's got to be hard to cut, as you can't

cut it during gel. Either it's done gelling, or it's not going to gel

because it's too cool.

We have a chemist on my soap forum, and he explained the whole ash

thing on soap... it has something to do with a chemical reaction

producing a soda ash residue...that stuff on top is actually formed

baking soda if I recall properly. I forgot the exact explanation why.

Heck with the result, the cause of Ash is because there's a sudden

temperature difference over that area of the soap. AC blowing on it

while drying, etc. I think of it like fog creation (NOT the same

process) in that if the ground is warm, and the air is cool... you get

water condensation at the ground level creating a hazy film, in soap

you get ash. It is NOT a good comparison, I just use that as a visual

aid mentally.

Ginger is very nice in soap! You don't see it often because ginger is

more pricey than most of the oils soapers use:P. hehehe.

I used to run around railing about cinnamon and cloves (irritant, the

eugenol was banned by IFRA for a while), bergamot (high phytotoxicity),

citruses (irritants and phytotoxicity), but now I realize how dumb that

is after over a decade of soaping. Especially after learning about

perfumery. When you compare the amount used in a WASH OFF PRODUCT

(soap) vs er... perfume... and consider the impact of say oakmoss

(sensitization) in all chypres, all the inherent problems of the most

popular topnotes, ie., bergamot, grapefruit, orange(irritants,

phytotoxicity), old lavenders petitgrain and orange blossom

(sensitizers)... it's put a whole new perspective on soaping EO for me.

Bottom line... you can use roughly 1/4 oz EO per 16 oz of soap, and

usually much less... that's a maximum dilution rate of 1.6% (and at

that concentration, you probably can't stand to be in that room with

the fresh soap for long or your nose will stop working... soap

amplifies scent).

1.6% is less than 1/3 of the amount of EO in a cologne. Then you rinse

off the soap within 5 minutes. If we have to worry about putting ANY EO

of any kind in our soap, we'd better all stop making perfumes for it's

toxicity and risks:P.

[Guest guest]

> Hey Helen,

>

> Brilliant, I bookmarked that one, called it all I need to know about

> HP soap making.LOl!

> But your soap looks so yummy and white and then the colour looks so

> pinky and not a bit " hippy " as my kids would say. " Is that hippy

soap "

> just because it's greeny brown.

> BTW I had a look at your website the other day, and once I got over

my

> jealousy I was in awe of your creativeness. Your soaps are

amazing.

> The felt soaps really struck me. And the sushi soap. You're a

genius.

> I also had a look at your webdesin and graphics (more jealous pangs)

> and have to pay to another compliment there as well. Fantastic work.

> How long did it take you to get to that level with soap making and

> graphic design? (I hope you don't mind me asking)

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

If your soap is 'greeny'... you are using pomace olive oil heavily?

Rice bran is the way to go... whiter, bit of translucence. If you

love translucence, castor oil at around 3-5%... it will look like a

bit like glowing white marble if you HP it.

Brown soap is usually your scent includes some vanilla... real

vanilla will always brown... but so will fake vanilla. At the cost of

vanilla absolute, it would take a crazy or insanely rich person to

use real vanilla, but vanilla is a 'basis' for many many scent

blends. Other things will turn soap brown or green, but it's usually

your choice of scent more than oils. What are you scenting with?

Oh... avacado oil in VERY high concentration makes incredibly

incredibly beautiful green soap naturally... but its pricey.

Me soaping... have a bit of info on that on my website in the About

section... I've been soaping for 13 years, but as it literally took

me years to 'figure out', making NICE soap has been far more recent

than that...I didn't perfect all my formulas, and complete testing of

nearly every oil and oil combo possible til around 4 years ago

(nearly, because it's pointless to soap something like Blackseed oil

for example, who could afford the soap:P).

There was no such thing as a real soaping book (ie, telling you where

to buy the best lye, SAP's or how much to use), it was pretty

horrible trial and error for me in the beginning, with many results

that looked like little black rocks, complete with distroyed pots.

My DBHP method is proprietary, and I've had arguments with people

about this so I have to say this. I INVENTED that specific process.

HP has been done for nearly 5,000 years however, so I don't claim to

have invented HP, just that way of doing it (as you see on my site),

regardless of how many other people lay claim to my instructions.

My first intro to soapmaking was with Jeanne Rose's books back in the

late 70's and early 80's when I was all into herbs and growing them.

I bought my first essential oils in 1976, patchouli and musk, in

Greenwich Village (I spent my childhood in Manhattan and went to

school in Soho) and I still have them. I didn't actually try soaping

til after my oldest son was born (he's 15 now), an 'eating chemical

soap can harm your child' article really set me off on the soaping

obsession. I didn't try perfumery til this past year, but I've been

blending EO for decades. I never thought of what I did as perfume,

just blends. Now that I think I know the difference, I am going to

make perfumes... just as soon as I get over my current perfume bottle

obsession, which involves owning every single 'classic' vintage

perfume made since 1890 (am still missing original Coty Chypre and

Jicky, because when sealed bottles come up for sale, the prices are

astronomical, and I'm obsessed, not insane:P).

Graphics... that came as an outcropping of photography... I was

Director of Photography for Casablancas MTM (model & talent

management) Orlando in the 80's as my 'real' job. I ended up doing a

lot of photo styling work as a side... and that led to photo

editing... which led to graphics software and then to graphics... and

then to web design. I built my first website in 1998 on notepad in

direct coded html... so I 'grew up' with every graphics program as

the software industry evolved, including Flash and of course

everything Adobe and Microsoft. I can use every web development

platform, I just cannot program (I don't wanna program, eep).

Sorry for the book, that's about it, hope I answered your question.

Did you check out my unfinished 'ode to soap' site I started a few

years ago, one of these days I'll finish it, but it's a good intro to

soap: http://graphics.zensoaps.com/soapphotography.html (this is a

long loader... it is graphic intensive).

[Guest guest]

> Saponification is one of the most chemically robust

> reactions in the world... you can't stop saponification.

Hi Helen!

I know this is a difficult question because you live on the other

side of the ocean and you probably don't have to go through the same

certification processes and such to being able to market your soaps

as the Europeans have to, but do you think in your opinion that

Professional Chemists would give certifications for soaps that have

been chilled instead of insulated or cooked?

I know you probably can't judge that from where you are, but I

thought I ask you for your opinion anyway as you have been in the

soaping business for such a long time.

In years to come, I hope that maybe I might sell my stuff as well and

if chemists do accept the chilling method and would class it as " up

to EU Standards for the Cosmetic Regulations Acts and Amendments " (I

don't know these things as yet), then I probably would give the

chilling a go as well to see what it is like.

I would have to wait for a few more years though as I haven't got the

space nor the cash where I am living at the moment, but whilst I am

waiting I am learning and experimenting!

Many thanks Helen!

Vita.

[Guest guest]

> Hi Helen!

>

> I know this is a difficult question because you live on the other

> side of the ocean and you probably don't have to go through the

same

> certification processes and such to being able to market your soaps

> as the Europeans have to, but do you think in your opinion that

> Professional Chemists would give certifications for soaps that have

> been chilled instead of insulated or cooked?

Hi Vita:). I am the wrong person to ask about EU regulations... they

make you jump hoops over there, that's about all I know.

As I don't know what requirements are for certification, I can't tell

you what Chemists there use as a criteria, but it would be odd if

they had trouble with any soapmaking method. I would imagine all

they'd care about is the finished pH of your soap, which averages

10.5.

Most soapers who prevent gel do so for a reason... generally to get a

VERY opaque, milky looking bar, and it's usually done with a milk

soap. Is it saponified? Well, it takes longer to saponify, but the

process definitely completes. Btw, while I've tried every method, I

make hot processed soaps, not cold processed:P.

You may want to ask the regulators directly what they want and why. I

know a few larger scale soapers in Europe, and they all complain

about the requirements, and I believe they make both methods CP

(gelled and ungelled). I see no reason that chemists would see them

differently unless you are trying to sell them out of the mold. But

they aren't as nice out of the mold, so if you sell some that way,

you won't sell many more, so that problem may solve itself:P.

> I know you probably can't judge that from where you are, but I

> thought I ask you for your opinion anyway as you have been in the

> soaping business for such a long time.

>

> In years to come, I hope that maybe I might sell my stuff as well

and

> if chemists do accept the chilling method and would class it as " up

> to EU Standards for the Cosmetic Regulations Acts and Amendments "

(I

> don't know these things as yet), then I probably would give the

> chilling a go as well to see what it is like.

>

> I would have to wait for a few more years though as I haven't got

the

> space nor the cash where I am living at the moment, but whilst I am

> waiting I am learning and experimenting!

>

> Many thanks Helen!

>

> Vita.

Vita, I know there are far more requirements in the EU than in the US

for soaps, perfumes, cosmetics. Even in the US, while the

requirements aren't as terrible, you still should have business

insurance, occupational license, zoning variances, sales tax number

and in some cases, cosmetic license for your state.

Many hobbyists disregard these regulations and take their risks

selling at farmer's markets and such, but the requirements are still

there. Further, your labels must comply with FDA regulations as well

as the Bureau of Weights and Measures (who actually go to craft shows

and Farmer's Markets to harass vendors, I've been told).

The FDA and other business organizations all have websites in the US,

I'm sure the EU regs can be found on the net also? That's probably

the best way to start, is to look those regulations up first online,

or call your local regulatory office. I'm sure they will be happy to

tell you what you need to know.

Soaping is one of those things you do for the love of it... it is

very hard work as a business, and not as profitable as you'd think

for the time involved. You do it to help humanity, because while the

hobby part is fun, the business part is very very labor intensive. On

the other hand, any good soaper can sell soaps hand over fist because

the demand is endless.

Helen

www.zensoaps.com

[Guest guest]

I made a second batch of soap, here is whats in it.

I modified iels recipe

32oz vegetable shortening- 907g

12 oz Virgin Coconut oil- 340g

6 oz Shea butter -170g

6 oz Castor oil -170g

18.480 oz Goats milk- 524g

7.462 oz lye- 212g

25mls dragons blood tincture to color

3 dessert spoons of apricot kernel meal for exfoliant

60mls of eo

5mls of peru balsam

13mls of patchouli

10mls of geranium

10mls of bourbon geranium

8mls of rosewood

20mls of red mandarin

3mls of lemon myrtle

It smells great.

But it seems very crumbly, I have either cut it too late or I didn't

add enough Goatsmilk.

I got to make my soap balls with the crumbly bits that broke off,

(there was loads) I used some rose hydrosol to stick it all toghether,

it was like mashed potatoes.

Will the balls harden, and will the soap harden with time?

TIA

Ruth

[Guest guest]

> I made a second batch of soap, here is whats in it.

> I modified iels recipe

> 32oz vegetable shortening- 907g

> 12 oz Virgin Coconut oil- 340g

> 6 oz Shea butter -170g

> 6 oz Castor oil -170g

> 18.480 oz Goats milk- 524g

> 7.462 oz lye- 212g

Hi Ruth, I ran your recipe through two calculators and you are lye

short(super fatted to the max here). Not a bad thing but what vegetable

shortening did you use? Second, your VCO is a wild card. FCO might be a

better choice here. Several options that I can see. Go off list and I will

break it down for you.

Jane

adobesoapworks

[Guest guest]

>

> I made a second batch of soap, here is whats in it.

> I modified iels recipe

> 32oz vegetable shortening- 907g

> 12 oz Virgin Coconut oil- 340g

> 6 oz Shea butter -170g

> 6 oz Castor oil -170g

> 18.480 oz Goats milk- 524g

> 7.462 oz lye- 212g

> 25mls dragons blood tincture to color

> 3 dessert spoons of apricot kernel meal for exfoliant

>

> 60mls of eo

>

> 5mls of peru balsam

> 13mls of patchouli

>

> 10mls of geranium

> 10mls of bourbon geranium

>

> 8mls of rosewood

> 20mls of red mandarin

> 3mls of lemon myrtle

> It smells great.

> But it seems very crumbly, I have either cut it too late or I didn't

> add enough Goatsmilk.

> TIA

> Ruth

>

Hi Ruth!

Wow, the fragrance sounds especially wonderful. I like your inclusion

of lemon myrtle and the 2 geraniums! Your soap has crumbled on you

because there wasn't enough liquid, and to compound the problem your

apricot meal (nice touch!!) probably soaked up some of the liquid-

making things even more dry! 21 ounces of liquid is ideal in my

opinion. Looks like the amount of lye you used would put you at about

a 7% superfat ratio. Not bad, but with the other components you've

used, I personally would have used a little more - say 7.75 oz lye. I

find that my soap tends to get brittle and crumby when the

water/liquid is discounted more than 20% of what is originally called

for. Also check your vegetable shortening for what oil/s are in it.

Most of time it is just hydrogenated soybean, but I did run across

one that had soybean and cottonseed.

iel

[Guest guest]

> Hi Ruth!

> Wow, the fragrance sounds especially wonderful. I like your inclusion

> of lemon myrtle and the 2 geraniums! Your soap has crumbled on you

> because there wasn't enough liquid, and to compound the problem your

> apricot meal (nice touch!!) probably soaked up some of the liquid-

> making things even more dry! 21 ounces of liquid is ideal in my

> opinion. Looks like the amount of lye you used would put you at about

> a 7% superfat ratio. Not bad, but with the other components you've

> used, I personally would have used a little more - say 7.75 oz lye. I

> find that my soap tends to get brittle and crumby when the

> water/liquid is discounted more than 20% of what is originally called

> for. Also check your vegetable shortening for what oil/s are in it.

> Most of time it is just hydrogenated soybean, but I did run across

> one that had soybean and cottonseed.

> iel

>

Hi iel, You are correct about the superfat ratio exactly, 7%

(Boy your good), Can I salvage it? Will I let it harden (will it ever

?) Could I melt it down with more water/hydrosol? It's usable but not

sale-able. Thanks for the tips.

Ruth

[Guest guest]

> I am already using the soap. It was entirely experimental and I used

> orange and ginger eos. I did get a bot worried about the ginger oil

> although I didn't use much, but every where I look I never see ginger

> oil as an eo for soap.

>

> Ruth

> http://www.whitewitch.ie

> >

Hi Ruth,

My most recently made shampoo bars are scented with tangerine and

ginger, so I was tickled to read of your combo. I haven't had any

trouble with sensitization. My husband and I have been the only ones

using it, but we both have super sensitive skin. I would be very leery

about using it within a couple of days of making it though. I let mine

cure for 4-6 weeks. I do cut it after a couple of days though.

Andrine