Re: parfum du jour January 4th now chypre

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Alfred Eberle <uruziam@...> wrote:

--- Ayala Sender wrote:

> Alfred,

> Tell us more about Chypre 14 - which notes went to

> it and what

> happened to them that surprised you?

> I find chypres to be the most fascinating

> fraragrance family,

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>snipped to save

So...Chypre #14 was indeed a surprise. I had been

working through a series of very simple blends based

on the idea of a chypre containing oakmoss, bergamot,

and labdanum. Because I had found that oakmoss had a

tendency to overwhelm everything I put it into

, I was

using very small amounts of it in proportion to the

bergamot and labdanum. But something wasn't right.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

So a friend of mine, who is *not* a perfumer (but who

perhaps should be!) suggested that I use a *lot* of

oakmoss, which would be counterintuitive, but she said

, it was magical! Somehow,

's idea that more oakmoss would do the trick

really was the secret. It didn't overwhelm everything

at all, and somehow there was a lovely dance between

the oakmoss and the bergamot, dancing in equal

partnership around the animalic velvet of the

labdanum. Thus I learned that the total is often more

than the sum of its parts.

snipping .>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>for economy BW.

So if you can imagine this basic blend, which somehow

evokes a wet forest, that's the basic smell; to which

I have added a micro-amount of mitti attar (adds a

nice powdery flavor to the drydown) and africa stone

tincture (adds an element of animalic ooo-la-la, and

makes it last even longer) , a 'soupcon' of jasmine

sambac, and a tiny bit of neroli too, all of which

'fine-tuned' the blend without disturbing the original

magical wet forest smell. I actually don't know if

this would still qualify, classically speaking, as a

chypre, but it's pretty wonderful.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.snipped

Alfred,

Alfred, Ayala All

I am a really great fan of the Chypre also...............love it love the

perfume.... love the structure of it the layers..... it is simply beautiful.

Alfred oooooooh earthy, wet, dank earthy earthy forest wow.....and then the

bergamot (another of my favorites) jasmine neroli...... wow I 'd like to get my

nose into that one!

It was so interesting the thread about sometimes letting go and outside the

marginsl.....l ie.... the oakmoss.....

the same happened for me with violet leaf abs..... I have a formula which I

entitled Bower which has red flowers and a generous amount of violet leaf....

wow..........................it really works.....pulls all the notes together

and somehow gives a powdery soft but tenaceous perfume....... I must say utterly

fabulous in milled soap......

Chypre formulas also lend very well for a milled bar.... nothing like a truly

decent naturally coloured and beautifully perfumed bar for ones morning

oblutions....it is the finest indulgence of the senses....and what a way to

start the day!!! Gawjus.

Janita

independent artisan natural perfumer

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I must say utterly fabulous in milled soap......

>

> Chypre formulas also lend very well for a milled bar.... nothing

like a truly decent naturally coloured and beautifully perfumed bar

for ones morning oblutions....it is the finest indulgence of the

senses....and what a way to start the day!!! Gawjus.

>

> Janita

Hi Janita and All,

I have made several variations on a theme for my daughter who loves

chypres. I don't especially care for them, but she has been thrilled

with the ones I've made for her. She is in love with oakmoss and

patchouli, and occasionally wears a dab of the diluted essence alone--

and smells wonderful. Her chemistry plus her personality make it work

for her.

I soap as well as do perfumes. You referred to milling soap, and I

need advice on this--I've done cold-process soap for twelve years, so

I've got the basic soap down.

I know this is off-topic; if anyone would be willing to share advice

with me, we could chat by e-mail if that would work. Please let me

know! )

Thanks a bunch!

~B